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Everything posted by JoeK

  1. Brackets for Z32 brakes on a S30

    Custom is never cheap. But Wilwood rotor discs aren't what I'd call astronomical. I have a pair I bought to do this exact thing, I think they were like $50 each. But yes, the cost of the custom hats made me go another route, which was Odyssey rotors. Even so, I had a hard time finding a machinist who would even touch the job of modifying stock car parts. They were all concerned about liability. If someone made a custom run, it'd be better priced. Maybe even reasonable. I'd be in for a set too. I've got a pair of Wilwood discs just taking up space currently.
  2. Brackets for Z32 brakes on a S30

    Might be better to have some custom rotor hats made. The hats never wear out and when your rotors are worn you just order new ones from Summit or wherever.
  3. Seems like those starting instructions may still be relevant for the new power pack . And the seat covers look good too. Making me rethink buying new seats.
  4. Maybe this is a dumb question, but I’m having a hard time figuring out my wiring. When you have the low beams on, it is just a single filament in each lamp. When you turn on the high beams, should the low beams filament also stay lit, or are they separate? I’m rewiring my ‘71 with a new EZ Wire kit, and want to use the existing headlights and dimmer switches. As I understand it, the original setup not only uses a ground interrupt system but seperate fuses for each left and right headlight. Of course the ezwire kit isn’t set up for this, nor does it come with headlight relays. I don’t think I can use a relay kit made for the 240z because of the of seperate fuses per side in the original setup. Plus the ground interrupt makes it more complicated to my already confused state of mind. If the headlights should be all on when the high beams are on, that will help me to figure how to wire up a relay setup in some fashion.
  5. Your memory is fine, it is 2 circuits but I'm pretty sure that all happens after the switch. The 12v+ goes from the battery to the switch to the fuse box, where it then splits up on it's way to the each head light. The high/low selector determines if high or low has a completed ground. Go brighter headlight and you are drawing more amperage. Plus I'll be combining both sides on one fuse, since I'm using a new wiring kit. The new wires are much larger, but the switch is the same size so I think its a weak point. Also I'll be running 12v+ through the high/low selector, and ground will be constant at the headlight. But I'm a carpenter, not an electrician let alone an automotive electrical guru, so take it all with a grain of salt (or a salt lick). This all just how I understand it and am hoping someone smarter than me will read this and tell me I'm an idiot (nicely please).
  6. They will still be grounded, just at the headlight. Right now the 12v goes through the switch and off to the headlight while the ground goes through the selector. Instead the 12v will go through the switch then through selector and off to the headlight. I think its simpler really, or at least I want think that 😁. I will definitely run relays, the contacts in the switches look tiny to me so I want to reduce the load on that side while also upgrading the headlights (likely to projectors with HIDs)
  7. I guess I need to figure out which bulbs I'm going to use, then find out how they are supposed to be run. I'm flipping the ground, so that the high selector will choose which gets the 12v, rather than the ground. The EZ Wire harness is set up this way, it doesn't even have any grounds, you have to supply your own. Thanks for the insights, keep 'em coming.
  8. Has anybody tried these flares yet? These look like the same as the ones as the that Japan Garage was selling, but since they are no longer, I need a new source. http://www.fiberglassmafia.com/store/p9/Wide_ZG_Fender_Flares.html
  9. Looks clean. You mentioned you used the same EZ Wire body harness as I’m using on my build. Where did you mount fuse box? Any pictures would be helpful. Thanks,
  10. Hi All, I thought I might as well start a build thread at some point. I've been lurking for a couple years and posting a few questions and comments here and there. I bought my '71 Z on Labor Day weekend, 2013. It came with an uncompleted RB25 swap in it. When I bought the car I was looking for a 240z to swap an LS1 into, but this looked like a great deal so I picked it. I thought I would complete that, but gave it some thought and decided I really wanted the V8 rumble and torque without having to figure out turbo technology or spend too much time on a dyno figuring out how to get what I wanted, which was a V8 anyway. So pulled that swap and sold it for what I bought the whole car for. Since then I've completely disassembled the car and put it on a homemade rotisserie. I've replaced some rusty panels, most notably the battery area and part of the firewall, one of the tool boxes, and part of the rear tray. The floors were a little beat up but pretty solid overall so I installed Bad Dog front and rear frame rails. Fabricated a mount system for a F-Body gas tank, which has it's own thread. I stripped the underside of the car to bare metal and am in the process of coating that now. I've been collecting parts for a while as well. I picked up a '98 LS1 with about 87k on it. I have the JCI mounts and headers. A nice Griffin 4 row aluminum radiator. A MN12 from a GTO that has bad 3-4 synchro that I'll rebuild. I'm also going with the TTT R230 rear end setup. Waiting on those parts to arrive in the mail any day now, along with an AZC coilover set. Already have the r230 and all associated parts out of a Z32TT. At this point, I'm not too far off from dropping the car back on the ground. I'm trying to do all that I can while it is up in the air but not sure how far I can go on the suspension while it's on it's side. Maybe the control arms and diff mount, potentially the coilovers but I'm not sure I can weld I the camber plates with the car so high up on the rotisserie. Definitely want to get the brake lines and fuel lines back in first. As for the cars intended purpose. It will be primarily a street car. I'll find some time for autoxing, but I don't care about being competitive so I'll just run in whatever class they let me. But for me it's more about the build than the completion. Something to do with the spare time I don't even have. As my signature points out, this car will get done when it gets done, and not a minute sooner.
  11. Maybe it’s user error, but this iPad takes kinda crappy photos. At least compared to my Samsung phone.
  12. It’s been 6 months since my last update. I’ve been getting stuff done, working steadily but still no leaps or bounds. Until last week when the family decided to visit family on the other coast and was kind enough to leave me behind. I was able to really tackle and complete some loose ends. Got the engine harness worked out. It had trunk lines that seemed long enough to put in a truck, and I wanted to move a few things around. So pretty much took it apart, sliced and diced it, a little shortening here and lengthening there and voila. A harness I sure as hell hope works. I made a boxed mount for the ECU and got it tucked up nicely next to the blower motor. I restored the entire HVAC system, and got that reinstalled. Rebuilt heater core, fresh paint, upgraded blower motor from a Kia. Radiator and fans mounted. All hoses run. Went through a lot of hoses finding what would fit. What worked for others didn’t seem to work for me. Ordered 3 different 45 degree thermostat elbows, and they all showed up with 60 degree angles. Still not sure if I like the location of the steam fitting and vent in the upper hose, might move down so at least it’s horizontal so I can get the air out of the system (if I ever get to that point). finished the majority of the cold air intake. Still need to mount the air filter, which arrives tomorrow. I have an adjustable stiffener arm by Spectre that I hope will work to hold the filter up. It just doesn’t seem like it will be that stable otherwise. Made a shifter boot out of neoprene and a retainer ring out of sheet metal. Had to hack a substantial amount out of the center console to make it fit over the MGW short shifter, and will need to figure out an interior boot at some point. Restored the dashboard and am really happy with how it turned out. We’ll see how long it lasts. 5 new Speedhut gauges, with new Millhouse pods for the smaller gauges. Sound mat on the entire interior. Used Rattletrap extreme. Great bond, same thickness as the big well known stuff but half the price. I don’t really know effective it will be, but certainly can tell the difference when knocking on the panels. Camaro tank installed, plumbed and wired. Just need to get fuel gauge worked out. Next up is the body harness. Have a 20 circuit EZ Wire harness and am trying to get my mind into it. Electrical is kinda my kriptonite, it makes me weak in the knees. Then I guess it’ll be time to throw some fluids into everything and see if she’ll start.
  13. And I think Photobucket changed the settings so that you have to pay money now to share pics
  14. TTT are adjustable without removal. What flares are those?
  15. Anybody take the plunge on these yet?
  16. Very nice looking. My set up is very similar to your routing, though I don't think I would have space to put the steam vent fitting in that spot. Mine is curretly lower down, about halfway along the vertical portion of the upper hose. Not sure if its in the right spot, worried I may not be able to bleed it if its not at the top like yours.
  17. Weld in Camber Plates Cover

    Pics would be grea. I need to do this too
  18. I have the GTX2 control arms. The car isn't running yet, but I can say the for perfect, look nice and stout, have plenty of adjustment, and the ladies love them. Not so sure about that last bit, but they do look fancy and of great build quality.
  19. I'll be using the Braille B3121 for my LS swap. Its a little less costly at around $230.

    Well, I haven’t figured out how to post website pics from this iPad, but the most common power steering delete belt routing I see has very little belt contact at the crank pulley. And the belt is really close to the alternator bracket bolt. Too close for my comfort, when I set mine up like that anyway. I am planning switch to the Low Alternator Mount from these guys http://lsbrackets.com/category/alternator-only-brackets/ Another solution would be an upper right mounted A/C compressor like the one that JCI sells, but that doesn’t help much if you weren’t planning to run A/C🤡

    How are you routing it now?
  22. LS3 swaps

    http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/74-gen-iii-amp-iv-chevy-v8z-tech-board/ Try this section
  23. r230 swap questions

    I’ve done the TTT R230 swap, though my car isn’t running yet. Yes, I had to trim and box the rear crossmember. Wish they mentioned that on the website, the original design did not require the trim. Tyler said they changed the design for a better driveline angle. The rear mustache bar had to be spaced back, as it didn’t clear the rear cover on the diff. I was unable to get a rear sway bar to fit. I tried 2 types, the MSA and the ST. The MSA didn't fit because of the Bad Dog rear frame rails, and the ST wouldn't clear the dogbone. I’ve seen the same picture of the twisted front mount. Don’t know what caused it but it is the only failure I’ve heard of. The TTT piece does look kinda weak
  24. SOLD!

    This is exactly what I needed about a year ago. Looks like a good deal. But can you tell me about that cable mod to the adjusters on the fronts?
  25. Project Binkey

    New episode up a few days ago