JoeK

There have been a number of threads I've been able to find regarding installing a plastic F-Body tank into our S30's. I have decided to install one of these tanks in mine as well, which is a '71 240z. Properly installed, with the sump towards the rear of the car, the tank hangs down about 5" below the original rear valance. Seems like most people install these tanks backwards, so that the filler is on the passenger side where the original filler door is. I don't really care about that, while I will use the original filler location I could easily install a filler relocation kit. I do care about fuel starvation issues though. But I don't like the tank hanging so low. All of the info I can find about this install never has any follow ups, saying whether or not they have any problems. I've got my mounts all fabbed up, and ready to weld in. Just need to decide which way to point the tank. I'm pretty sure I'll mount it with the sump towards the front unless someone's got some horror stories to share.

Anybody got a sense from the pics if these long tubes MIGHT work with the JCI mounts?

When I pulled the frame rails, the car was still very solid. I didn't have to replace the floors, but think if you cut them out the car will still hold much of its rigidity with the sides and tunnel all in place. That may depend on how apart the car is, but with the car stripped down there is very little weight.

Lookin' good, I like the reminder to put oil in it. Looks like you cut out for bolt in camber plates. Which ones will you be running?

boltdepot.com has them in 10.9 class, 55mm, 60mm, 70mm and on. Listed as super fine thread. Mcmaster-Carr would be another place to look

To add to the question above, anybody have any luck routing the filler to the original location with a fuel cell? And thoughts on running an in tank pump vs an external pump?

Thanks, money sent

Big reason I bought mine was it is small enough to fit in the garage. Last car was a Roadsters pretty tight, so this one is really tight. But it takes up less space on a rotisserie

Anybody cutting up a 240z? Looking for the part of the wall behind the seat and the bottom of the tool box, drivers side. Looks like water sat in mine for a bit and rusted the one side out beyond repair. Mine is a '71, I don't know what the differences would be through the different S30's.

That looks like quite the transformation Dave O. I'd be happy to hear about any tricks with the Lizard Skin products. As far as my rotisserie build, I made mine out of mostly wood, as I'm a carpenter by trade and wood is just easier for me. There is a pretty good rotisserie build thread here http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/81766-welp-im-building-a-rotisserie-from-engine-stands-pics/?hl=rotisserie with a good amount of pics from a few different versions. I've been planning on throwing some quick pics and description of mine up on the same thread as well. I still need to build a counterweight system for mine still, since I didn't get the cars center balance right.

At this point, I'm cutting off the frame rails. Drilling out do spot Wells in pretty darn easy, as long as you're patient with it. I went to Harbor Freight and bought 3 spot weld cutters because I read people go through them real fast. I'm still on the first wside of the first one, and have cut out a few hundred spot welds so far. Just don't go full speed. But I digress. Removing the original rail makes installing the new rails much easier. The floors are easy to make as straight as the new rails. Using Cleco's to hold it all together. I got the driver side front rail fitted up real nice and am currently fighting with the rear rail, having to pad it a litte here and there. I just wish my welding skills were as good as my fitting skills.

You're gonna put 2 Saturn steering wheels in your Z? Or are those electric power steering motors?

Thanks for the advice so far. I think I'm going to go ahead and remove the existing frame rails. It'll be much easier to pull the floor down to the new frame rails without the old rails resisting me. and I won't have to worry about rust lurking in between the old rail and floor. Jon, I read through your thread in the BSWC area. There was reference to putting oil in the frame rails. Is this for anti-rust or some other purpose I can't fathom? I plan to use copper weld through primer about 1/2" on either side of the weld areas, and regular epoxy primer the rest of the area. Gord, I've read your post at Nicoclub before. Very nice write up. I'll have to find my Cleco set, I had forgotten about those.I was considering replacing my floors, but decided the rust was just surface. After I removed it all with a wire wheel, the floors feel solid everywhere. After the frame rails get installed, everything will get a coat of Eastwood rust converter, followed by Eastwood Rust Inhibitor, then LizardSkin.

I finally got my rotisserie built and car up on it. Next on the list is installing my Bad Dog frame rails. Seems like there are mixed opinions on whether or not to remove the existing frame rails, some do and some don't. Now that my car is up, I can sight down the existing rails and notice maybe a 1/2" of crown on both sides. Of course the new frame rails are straight. I figure I can fashion a big a#$ clamp and pull the 2 together, but am guessing both will bend in equally and I'll still end up with a little crown. If I cut out the existing frame rails, the floor boards would bend down to the straight new rails much easier. So, I guess I'm looking for your thoughts and advice. I'm also assuming I could cut out the frme rails with the car up on the rotisserie without adverse effects. Seems like there is plenty of structural strength with the floor and roof in place.

My build is very similar to yours. Maybe a little less rust repairs but I finished that battery box area a few weeks back and just got the car up on the rotisserie last night, so I can start installing the bad dog frame rails. But I'll start my own build thread shortly, just wanted to let you know I feel your pain. From my research, you will have to change the input shaft if you buy a t56 from a 95 Camaro. The 95 had an LT1, and the 5.3 is an ls type motor. You need a t56 from a '98-02 F-Body, '04-06 GTO, or Cadillac cts-v. A Corvette t56 won't work either, the case is different. There is someone selling a t56 out of an '02 Camaro with 82k for $1000 on ls1tech right now, which is usually what the lt1 t56 goes for.

There are what appears to be a couple reasonably priced T56's on LS1tech right now. The 2nd one should be a mn12, considered an upgrade from the standard T56 with better synchros. http://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds/1756175-ls1-t56-6-speed-manual-transmission-kit.html http://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds/1756236-fs-ls1-t56-w-harness.html

I'd take one too

Thanks for the advice so far. I'm certainly not looking for more work, but at the same would rather be safe and not have to worry about it. Plan is a 400HP +/- LS and I don't want to be afraid to break it. I'd guess that the pock marks from the rust scale removed are 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through the sheetmetal. The back side of the box frame, same thing as the inner fender, looks pristine after I removed the undercoating. Of course one side of a piece of metal doesn't tell you much about the other, in most cases... I suppose I could just convert and encapsulate the rust, then weld a cap over the area, butt welded from the top of the Bad Dog rail and over the horizontal portion of the box, and maybe spot weld to the top of the box?

So I've got some light rust around my frame rails surrounding the battery area. As seen in the pics, I've already cut out the battery area and have the metal I need to replace that area. But as you can see, I've also got some rust on the frame and am planning on cutting it out per the lines drawn. These areas are pretty easy to bend up new metal, as the shapes are pretty straight forward. After the new metal is welded in, I'll also weld in Bad Dog frame rails. My question is, if I cut out this much metal, will the car still support itself or do I need put some supports either side of the effected area? It'll still have the inner fender, and very little weight with the front suspension and interior removed, and obviously the drivetrain removed. Car is currently supported on jackstands from the cross member in front and the rear subframe just behind the doors. The car really completely torn down but for the suspension, and the front will be removed before I cut out any metal. I also wonder if it would be better for me to replace the battery area first, though I can easily imagine finding more rust on the inner fender once I see the inside of the frame. I welcome your thoughts, opinions and questions. Thanks,

Plain and simple. Looking for a rustless cutout of the battery box area with just a little touch of the firewall. I hope the attached pic shows the area I'm looking for, I tried to mark out the area. Thanks much for your attention.

Any sense when you might have the camber plates with integrated strut tower bar mounts ready to go out?

I did already buy a car. Got a 72 with a RB25DET. Now to remove it, sell it, and find a moderately priced LS1/T56.

Still searchin'. Thought I had the perfect car last night, 2 hour drive from home. After an hour on the road, the guy calls me and tells me he just sold it. So, still searchin'!

Looking for a 240z. Prefer a rust free example with a straight body, but can handle some rust in the floorboards or spare tire well. Don't care about color or paint condition, engine or no engine. Basically looking for a good candidate to do an engine swap. Let me know what you got, thanks for looking...