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Everything posted by walkerbk

  1. So I have finished my ls1 4l65e swap and love it. Anything over 3k rpm gets a little scary. Went to the strip to show up all the mustangs and running street tires got nowhere... literally spun tires for the first 60ft and then just rolled through the finish. After buying a set of street slicks I went back. Still could not launch as hard as I wanted to but I was running low 12s. My thought is coil overs, bigger sway bar, lsd differential and true slicks. Well I am getting ready to start my next build (63 c10) and am researching what I am doing for suspension and have decided to keep the solid axle and add a torque arm. After researching torque arms I thought why not put one on the datsun? Is there a large difference since it is a irs? My thought is the torque is still going through the nose of the diff (thus the clunk that I had to fix). My thought is remove the extra mount over the diff that I added and remove the stock nose mount and replace it with a bar that goes up to my transmission mount. This would make it to where the diff is mounted on the rear and then to the front of the car right under the driver seat.
  2. Sorry. It's been a while. I do not have mine notched, I check them for torque every 10k miles or so and no problems. I also have poly bushing if that changes anything.
  3. I have 5/8" bolts in mine and have been drag racing it. No problems. I have also pulled them and checked after about 5k miles and they had no marks.
  4. Drag racing suspension

    Well I definitely plan on a dedicated set of drag slicks but I have to increase funds first. I have the set of street slicks, daily tires, and it is going to take some talking to the wife to get a 3rd set of tires. I don't have a goal for the car. Built it to be reliable and I love going fast. Obx lsd is in the future with a set of wolf creek racing axles and coil overs. Should be about 2k next time I have the money. I am also currently seperated from my car. I had to move up north for a while and couldn't drive the Z up and the truck. I should have her back around Christmas
  5. Drag racing suspension

    I have everything you just mentioned except the welded diff and the roll bar. I am running a street slick ment more for autocross so I know I am losing traction with them, but I was running the same times with my touring tires. I know I am putting down around 350-400. Definitely wish I had them slicks like that though.
  6. Drag racing suspension

    Check out this page, toward the bottom. They call it a subframe connector but it looks like it would do the same thing as a torque arm, lift weight off the nose and apply it to the rear for better traction. https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-2004-2007-gen-i/1549239-tuning-irs-drag-racing.html Also, I attached two pics of the same thing where they attach the subframe to the rear suspension. Don't know how much upward torque is applied though, I think this design more helps with wheel hop.
  7. LS376/480 4L70E HELP!!!

    Btw, the best way to do it, is to get the engine and suspension set up, get the car running, take it all back apart and then do the body and interior. That's my opinion anyway.
  8. LS376/480 4L70E HELP!!!

    -Kits: i did thd CX racing headers and engine mounts but I used the 4l60e transmission so the headers had to be modified and every welder that looked at it said it couldn't be done... so I bought my own, figured out how to weld SS and did my own turned out fantastic. I will later add duel cutouts before the Y pipe. If I had it to do over I would have gone JCI all the way. I would have also turboed but that's me. -Suspesnion: left mine mostly stock but I'm getting back into that now. I did the poly bushings and am going to do 4 corner coilovers, nothing special. This is my toy that likes to make the mustang and camaro guys wonder why they just spent 40k on a car when they just got beat by a car that cost 10k to build. Brakes: Silvermine for the 240 caliper and 300zx roter. Remove the stock prop valve (replace with a union) and you will be around 70/30 braking. Paint at 2k: get it running. Dynomat: get it running. 225 tires: same I got... can still spin them on a dry road while going 40. Driveline: jci makes a great steel shaft. No need for aluminum since it is so short the weight savings is going to be minimal. I think mine is only 2.5ish feet, maybe 7lbs. CAI: focus on getting it running. Radiator: stock 3 row and then go get a random hose from autozone that fits (go behind the counter and pick). Fuel cell: I swapped over a camaro tank and wish I had left the stock one with the walbro fuel pump. Quote Quote this
  9. Drag racing suspension

    So miatas use a open style torque tube that runs from the differential to the transmission. It is the same setup as the corvette torque tube except that it is only closed on 3 sides to make it easier to maintain. And it doesn't need as much since there isn't the torque of a v8 in there stock. From my understanding, the key to a hard launch is to be able to transfer vehicle weight to the rear wheels as fast as possible. 4 link push and pull the frame up applying all weight from torque to the wheels. The torque arm is mounted to the front of the differential and as the nose of the diff rotates up it pushes the front of the car up applying the weight to the rear. My thought is that even though it is an irs, the diff still acts the same. Under hard acceleration, the nose of the differential launches upward. This is the reason for the strap over the diff and the reason the rubber mount under the differential separates. That being said, if I was 100% sure this would work, I wouldn't be asking here. My design thought is to remove all the mounting on the front and then have 4 pieces of angle iron bolted to the nose going to a torque arm on both sides of the drive shaft. This will also make it easy to make a drive shaft cage.
  10. Texans, help me out.

    Last time the guy poped the hood and said "is that stock?". They do not care in Texas (this was in bell county as well).
  11. Drag racing suspension

    Btw, I have upgraded to poly bushings, springs and struts and do use the car for autocross as well.
  12. So to start off, I am cheap. I hate over paying on car parts just because my car is older than most of the peoplease that work in parts stores. Some times I can get away with it, other times I just flip open the wallet and hope the wife doesn't knowtice. I currently have chevy chevelle springs (moog 6556) on my ls1 280z 2+2 and although they ride great in the front with the extra weight, they are way to stiff in the rear at around 197 lbs. So I have been planning on swapping to coil overs for the ability to change springs and I came across a website that has specs for moog springs http://classiccarsprings.com/coil-spring-specifications.html Looking through this list, cc257 is a progressive spring that is 149lbs at 15.5 in height so it is only slightly stiffer than the stock springs and very close to the exact hight. What do you guys think? Btw, these springs are for a 90-97 honda accord I believe
  13. You make a good point. I still think it is a viable option, just not for what I need. I guess I'm going to chop everything up and go with coil overs.
  14. That is why I was looking at these springs. The stock ones are right around 100lbs/in and with these being 150lbs/in I figure that should give the soft side about a stock feeling and then the firm side enough to reduce roll when cornering.
  15. Sound/Heat Insulation

    Get this stuff from home depot. They only sell it online and it is the same as the automotive material http://m.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouch-48-in-x-6-ft-Radiant-Barrier-30000-11406/100656748?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1-2-_-NA-_-100656748-_-N
  16. 280z dash rebuild new idea

    So as all good stories start out... so, there I was... After sitting out in the Texas sun for all these years, my dash had bit the dust, many cracks had become small canyons and had been filled with RTV by the previous owner. While I had the car apart for my LS swap, and my dash was out for my Speed Hut Gauge install I figured I would rebuild the dash. I had heard many people say they just "fixed" the cracks and went with it, but I wanted to make something that would last so after reading about how I could cover the foam with fiberglass, I decided to give it a try. Removing the old PVC crap was easy work with a heat gun, the whole thing took less than an hour. after that, I spent a few days coating it with fiberglass... BIG MISTAKE, DO NOT USE FIBERGLASS. Let me explain this; first, in the case that you are ever in a car crash, your face would be met by a very soft plush fiberglass wall... not good. Second off, living in Texas, I am assuming that it had to do with the heat, the dash had bubbled and cracked within a few weeks. So what was I going to do. I spent many hours with the heat gun removing the fiberglass and many more hours patching the foam with spray foam. So I was left with a uncovered foam dash with very few options. I could cover it with leather but that to would have problems in the heat over time. So I was on the hunt for something that would flex, handle heat, and be cheap to buy. I found a few people had success at patching parts with bumper repair and then it hit me... CAULK. I know I know you are all thinking I have spent to many nights in the garage with the car running, but after a hour of walking around Lowes, I bought a few things of exterior caulk and took them home to be tested. After testing them all, I found something I like, Liquid Nails Extreme Heavy Duty. It spread somewhat thick, but it leveled out a little to reduce brush strokes. It is paintable, flexible, heat tolerant, and can fill gaps up to 3/8". so any flaws could be filled in plus it is sandable. I used a cheap trim brush from walmart (its the red one in the attached image) and it worked very well, I also tried using a regular paintbrush that I trimmed the end off to make it stiffer, but this didnt work as well. I think I trimmed it to short. I have put four coats of this on the dash and it has become somewhat thick (maybe 1/8" thick on avg). I can push my fingernail into it and it will flex but return to normal. I started painting it tonight but do not have any pictures of it at this time. So, I might be crazy, but I fell this is going to work much better than the fiberglass. Let me know what yall think and I will keep yall updated.
  17. 280z dash rebuild new idea

    you guys are killing me. It's the fact that it's just the photo that looks bad. The dash really looks a lot better than the photos show. Here are some during the installation. These are more of what it really looks like.
  18. 280z dash rebuild new idea

    Hey now, as I said, the pics don't do it justice. There have been several times that I don't even notice that it's not stock. If I find a decent one at a junk yard now that I know this will work, I will go back and redo it, but until then this one stays as is. She might be ugly, but she has an LS under the hood. Maybe one day she will get a nice coat of paint.
  19. DBW pinout?

    I have the DBW setup in my car, used the link from above to set it up. It is so nice to have cruse control, used a few switches and have them all mounted right under the radio by the 4 way flasher switch.
  20. I have the cx racing kit in mine and it is very nice but I really don't like the engine mounts, kind of just seem weak to hold the motor. I have the long tube headers from them as well and although they are nice they are a pain to fit in there, there was no mods that had to be done, but I pray I never have to change the starter because it would be a week long job. I am now wanting to turbo my car and can't because of the long tube headers. If I had to do it over again, I would do the jcI kit as it mounts better and I think would fit better than the CX racing kit. The camaro oil pan will fit and hang about 1" below the cross member. Not an issue for me because my exhaust is lower than that.
  21. 280z dash rebuild new idea

    Sorry it has been so long, I forgot about this post. Well it survived the lovely texas winter and we are now getting into the 80s and low 90s so we will see how the summer goes. So far it is looking great for what I did. I am sure if I spent more time on it, it would look much better. I believe that the 2 things that I didn't do that I should have is. 1, sand it down better. The caulk is sandable so you should be able to get a smooth finish. 2, I think that you could probably add water to the caulk to thin it out to make it flow over the dash better. This would remove the brush strokes. Again, overall I am very happy with it and I have had to tell everyone that has ridden in the car that it is not original (they aren't really car guys though). The attached pictures don't really do it justice but here they are. If anyone has any questions let me know. Btw, the reason I did this is because the fiberglass cracked. Plus if you are ever in a wreck, a fiberglass dash is not what you want to hit your head on. After the summer, I will be redoing the rest of the interior. I will be applying great stuff foam and sanding it to get the exact shape I want and then doing this over it instead of vinyl.
  22. I have a 77 280z with a 4 speed transmission that came from the factory. I am trying to replace it with a 5 speed out of a 240sx. The main reason for the swap is my transmission is old, and I will be putting a turbo motor in soon. I know I could go with the T-5, but this from what I have heard is a better transmission and it is easy for me to find (and cheap). I know that the counter bearing hole and the shift rod hole (I am not sure about the names, but I know which ones) need to be enlarged. The problem is, I have read that there are two different types of 4 speed transmission bell housings, one of which you have to move the reverse light switch. I am trying to find out when they switched bell housing so I dont find out mid build that I have to drill a new hole in the side of my new transmission.
  23. swap a 240sx transmission into a 77 280

    I have looked at both of those. WOW, I didnt even think about measuring from the "parting line". Well I guess that solves my problem. thanks for the help. Ill post about the distance and if it fits or not when I get the measurements.
  24. 77 2+2 Door lock info needed

    From the other Z door locks that I have seen they should not be any different (I say SHOULD NOT, so dont come blaming me if they are). I have a 77 2+2 as well and have looked for door locks in the past before repairing them with a clothes hanger. Most of what I found had a picture of a door lock that looked like the trunk locking mechanism. I dont know if this is because they are selling a product that they are unfamiliar with or if they are using a stock image. PS, I do however believe the 240 came with a different door lock.
  25. Stuck Brake Drum - HELP

    I have always found drums hard to get off. The best method I have found to remove them is to get them nice and hot... how you ask... Jack the wheel in question up and turn the car on and put her in gear. pull the parking brake, or dont in your case, and give her some gas until she starts smoking a little. take the tire off and the drum should just fall off. Always works for me