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SH4DY

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About SH4DY

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    Regular

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Richmond, VA

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  1. Do you mean P0154? P0154 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1) https://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS309-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B001LHQBMC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1510758097&sr=8-13&keywords=obd+code+reader <-- I keep one of these in my truck. It'll show you codes and live data. I agree with checking the wiring in the harness for continuity. Is it a stock F-body harness or was it modified? They could have crossed a wire or one might have broken if they extended plugs or something.
  2. Maybe reach out to Futofab or Whitehead. Z Car Depot also has 930CV conversion stuff...
  3. Started working on the roll bar. It's a "Jegster" kit that I'm making fit more to my liking. I tacked it in place to the car and welded in most of the bars then removed so I would weld all the way around the top. The bottom of the "X" will be installed once it goes back in car. Did a little porting on the 241 heads: I also found this mess after I decided to take the entire car back down to the metal: It looks like it had a panel replacement at some point with metal that was run over repeatedly on a gravel road. Solid 1/2" of bondo covering it. The body line break was all bondo. I've ordered new quarters and rockers. I think it'll be much easier to replace the panels than try and fix them at this point. Once the panels are in I need to order seats to figure out brackets and then then the floor pans/ tunnel can get finished. I'm planning on starting on the headers soon. It's going to be a tri-y and 180* design combined. Should be interesting. Progress is slow but it's progress...
  4. Project Carbon LS30

    Trials and tribulations of an S30 build
  5. So, after allll that work I decided it was best to just take it all back to the metal and start from scratch. The car has had at least 3 paint jobs and all those layers added up. It wound up being more trouble than it was worth trying to smooth out that mess or find a "good" layer. I'm glad I did though - it's going to make life much easier in the long run. . Painted the underside of the hood. There was some trash that got in the gun so the spray pattern wasn't great but I'm hoping I can clear it up with a little wet sanding. Finally started working on patching the firewall. Still a lot of grinding to go but she's coming along. It's good to not have that gaping hole anymore.
  6. Any updates on this? Was looking forward to seeing more of this awesome fab work.
  7. I decided to cut out those two rods. The one was right on the panel and it was was already trapping trash and was going to make smoothing the area a shore. I'll be adding a another down bar but it'll be a single curved 1.5" dia tube. Made some progress (?) on stripping, blocking, priming the body. Still a long way to go. Hope to have it primed by the end of the weekend. Then on to the floor pans and trans tunnel...
  8. Not sure why those pictures are so damn big
  9. Started boxing in the former battery tray area: Trans is in! Going to have to redo the majority of the trans tunnel. Next step is to get a bead roller and start on the floors and finish the firewall. I think I might wind up going SLA ford 8.8": I started pricing out 5 lug conversions, brakes, suspension, LSD, axles, etc and its pretty cost prohibitive to keep the IRS. Pretty sure with a good 4 link and watts setup I can get this thing to handle pretty well... at least for any auto-x or back road driving I may do.
  10. More welding for the drip rail: Trying to make this car as solid as possible with minimal bondo. Huge pain in the ass. Added some angle iron to help strengthen the front frame rails: After boxing in the lower portion of the rails I added a tubular piece to replace the factory frame rails. It is attached to the rear subframe. Mocking up the motor and the new subframe for the LS swap. I had some extra paint in the gun and wanted to see what it would look like on the car: Rustoleum Satin black mixed @ 15% with Acetone. Single coat. I like it. I think it'll compliment the carbon fiber well. Now that I have the motor in I can figure out the transmission mount and then start building the floors and tunnel.
  11. I was able to get a little more done last weekend. I cut out the horrible patch job on the outside of the drivers side frame rail, blasted, primed/painted and boxed in with 16 ga (I think? may have been thicker) sheet. I still need to do the small portion in front of the cross member mount. After spending a couple of hours fighting with all the spot welds trying to remove the brackets in the engine bay I gave up after seeing how weak/ think the metal was. It also became pretty clear how flimsy the shock tower support must be. So, I cut a healthy chunk of it out (pretty close to the perimeter spot welds) and added new sheet (22 ga) along with some 3/4" tube. Once I get around to the fixing/ replacing sections of the firewall I'll add bracing to the back of the towers to the firewall. Also shaved the drip rail. Still very much a work in progress
  12. With the several layers of epoxy resin, and maybe a coat of clear, it should be pretty well contained
  13. Post >East-Coast Craigslist / Ebay links here

    https://richmond.craigslist.org/pts/6205423910.html My junk
  14. Pikes Peaks 2016

    Damn man that sucks but at least it happened there and not earlier in the course where it looked like it was just a sheer cliff. Like others have said, cars can be rebuilt, glad youre ok. That course looks sketchy AF though... youve got way bigger balls than me.
  15. On to the pictures: The Z as she arrived in all her glory/ misery. I'm pretty sure the car was used for practice by a highschool body shop class Who needs metal for a floor board? and the rust... ohhh the rust: After some cutting/ sanding and priming: I'm also redoing the steering wheel. Took off the old gross rubber, attached some MDF and started shaping. It'll eventually be wrapped in carbon. Lots and lots of hours to go with the media blaster and sander.
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