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SH4DY

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About SH4DY

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  • Location
    Richmond, VA

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  1. SH4DY

    '77 280Z - wonky doors

    Just a quick update: after looking at the alignment of the inner portion of the door compared to the opening (all factory) - the gaps were all over the place on the passenger side. Driver's side was even all around. I'm wondering if the door had been previously altered and I didn't catch it before I started working on it. Either way, I ordered an unmolested passenger side door off e bay. Should be here in couple days. It'll be the test about whether its the chassis of the door that's screwed up.
  2. SH4DY

    '77 280Z - wonky doors

    The problem with moving the door forward is that then the window frame hits the A-pillar (the actual window frame, not the weather stripping). The picture above of the passenger side door is metal on metal on the inside, no striker and no weather stripping. Once I add the weatherstrip it will make it stick out past the quarters. I guess I'm going to have to clay it or something to see exactly where it's hitting and go from there.
  3. SH4DY

    '77 280Z - wonky doors

    It was stationery during the whole process. If it did twist, it wasn't along the length of it, it would be like the front and rear are no longer in line. The hatch fits perfectly though, no taper top to bottom that i can tell. The really dusty pictures are the drivers side. Both sides have the strikers removed and are being pushed closed. Its odd. Passenger side: Drivers side:
  4. Does anyone else have issues with their doors closing, without any weather stripping? After replacing rockers, quarters, etc, I put the doors back on and after lots of fighting and persuasion I can get the panel gaps and alignment (when looking at the side of the car) pretty close but one side is way off from the other in terms of how far in the door sits when fully closed. The door mounting points on the doors and chassis are factory metal as are the door jamb areas. The issue I'm having is that the drivers side door will sit in a healthy 1/2" when fully closed where as the passenger side door sits a little proud. And that is without the striker installed. The passenger side door hits the door sill about half way down and I can't close it any further. I'll try to take some pictures to help explain but has anyone else run into this? I can't find any doors locally and the only ones I can find online are 240Z doors that have different latches and may be different dimensionally. Thanks
  5. It's been a while since I've posted anything but not because of a lack of progress: Floor and tunnel are done. I took everything back to base metal and epoxy primed: . Some added reinforcement: TTT Goodies WHP Chromoly 39 Spline stub axles and Z31T CV conversion. New wheel bearings all around MFactory LSD is in the mail (Thanks to user exlifesaver) Block is back from the machine shop and I've started the short block assembly. Still need to finish working the heads before I take them to get valve job done. Still have a ton of body work to go before I can prime but she's coming along. Little teaser shot of the ITB's
  6. Compared to everyone else's it seems at least. Finally at the point in my build where I need to pull the trigger on wheels before going too much further with the body work to make sure everything fits. The problem is what I'm measuring doesn't jive with what everyone else is using. An example is a 16x8 +0et wheel. From everything I've read and the pictures I've seen, that should be about flush with stock fenders. However, when I measure clearances (using Wed autobahn 15x7 +10et) I get the following: Front: inner: 25mm outer: flush Rear: inner: 25mm outer: 5mm This is a 280z with coilovers. So, when I run that through an offset calculator, I should be looking at 16x8 +20 et wheels to be flush and take up the inboard space. So, how is my offset needed off 20mm from everone else? Thanks
  7. Got the roll bar in and started stitch welding the existing panels that were in good shape and adding more metal for rigidity. I'll be adding some gussets to the "X" and adding additional bars. Also, starting working on the floor pans with some DIY metal forming. Crazy how much stiffer the sheet is with the formed areas. I also had to make more room on the top of the trans tunnel for the bell housing. This weekend I hope to finish up the roll bar and get both rockers finished then I can start on the floor pans and rear quarters. On to the pictures:
  8. SH4DY

    Alternator wiring

    https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1875107-c6-corvette-alternator-wiring.html#post19706842
  9. Drivers side header before coating. Still need to add the crossover piece and tabs to lock in the slip fit connectors. Reverse cone collectors. Pretty pumped about these. First attempt at making dimple dies. Very DIY setup: a big bolt in a vice, an old bearing and race and a big ass wrench. I'm going to be adding them to the roll bar around the "X". Need to get a smaller bearing/ race for smaller areas. More rust, rust rust: I finally moved the car into the garage. It's getting cold here.
  10. SH4DY

    Finally sprayed my Z

    Gorgeous AF. I bet it'll look killer in the sunlight.
  11. Passenger side header after coating. I'll be using slip fit connections for the 180* merge under the car into the collectors. Thinking about going with reverse megaphones. I'm making sure all merges are properly fitted - the outer plate is just a cover to help prevent any stress cracks. Drivers side before coating. It's a tight fit the the brake MC but I'm not using a booster which helps. Passenger side installed: New rocker mocked up: Rust bullet applied to the replacement quarter and rocker for the drivers side: Inner rocker being reworked. Close to being able to get the floor pans in. I've got lots of early X-mas presents showing up: Silver Mine front and rear brake kits, bushings, coilovers, and seam sealer, epoxy and high fill polyester primer.
  12. Do you mean P0154? P0154 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1) https://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS309-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B001LHQBMC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1510758097&sr=8-13&keywords=obd+code+reader <-- I keep one of these in my truck. It'll show you codes and live data. I agree with checking the wiring in the harness for continuity. Is it a stock F-body harness or was it modified? They could have crossed a wire or one might have broken if they extended plugs or something.
  13. Maybe reach out to Futofab or Whitehead. Z Car Depot also has 930CV conversion stuff...
  14. Started working on the roll bar. It's a "Jegster" kit that I'm making fit more to my liking. I tacked it in place to the car and welded in most of the bars then removed so I would weld all the way around the top. The bottom of the "X" will be installed once it goes back in car. Did a little porting on the 241 heads: I also found this mess after I decided to take the entire car back down to the metal: It looks like it had a panel replacement at some point with metal that was run over repeatedly on a gravel road. Solid 1/2" of bondo covering it. The body line break was all bondo. I've ordered new quarters and rockers. I think it'll be much easier to replace the panels than try and fix them at this point. Once the panels are in I need to order seats to figure out brackets and then then the floor pans/ tunnel can get finished. I'm planning on starting on the headers soon. It's going to be a tri-y and 180* design combined. Should be interesting. Progress is slow but it's progress...
  15. SH4DY

    Project Carbon LS30

    Trials and tribulations of an S30 build
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