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About SH4DY

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    Richmond, VA

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  1. Compared to everyone else's it seems at least. Finally at the point in my build where I need to pull the trigger on wheels before going too much further with the body work to make sure everything fits. The problem is what I'm measuring doesn't jive with what everyone else is using. An example is a 16x8 +0et wheel. From everything I've read and the pictures I've seen, that should be about flush with stock fenders. However, when I measure clearances (using Wed autobahn 15x7 +10et) I get the following: Front: inner: 25mm outer: flush Rear: inner: 25mm outer: 5mm This is a 280z with coilovers. So, when I run that through an offset calculator, I should be looking at 16x8 +20 et wheels to be flush and take up the inboard space. So, how is my offset needed off 20mm from everone else? Thanks
  2. Got the roll bar in and started stitch welding the existing panels that were in good shape and adding more metal for rigidity. I'll be adding some gussets to the "X" and adding additional bars. Also, starting working on the floor pans with some DIY metal forming. Crazy how much stiffer the sheet is with the formed areas. I also had to make more room on the top of the trans tunnel for the bell housing. This weekend I hope to finish up the roll bar and get both rockers finished then I can start on the floor pans and rear quarters. On to the pictures:
  3. SH4DY

    Alternator wiring

  4. Drivers side header before coating. Still need to add the crossover piece and tabs to lock in the slip fit connectors. Reverse cone collectors. Pretty pumped about these. First attempt at making dimple dies. Very DIY setup: a big bolt in a vice, an old bearing and race and a big ass wrench. I'm going to be adding them to the roll bar around the "X". Need to get a smaller bearing/ race for smaller areas. More rust, rust rust: I finally moved the car into the garage. It's getting cold here.
  5. SH4DY

    Finally sprayed my Z

    Gorgeous AF. I bet it'll look killer in the sunlight.
  6. Passenger side header after coating. I'll be using slip fit connections for the 180* merge under the car into the collectors. Thinking about going with reverse megaphones. I'm making sure all merges are properly fitted - the outer plate is just a cover to help prevent any stress cracks. Drivers side before coating. It's a tight fit the the brake MC but I'm not using a booster which helps. Passenger side installed: New rocker mocked up: Rust bullet applied to the replacement quarter and rocker for the drivers side: Inner rocker being reworked. Close to being able to get the floor pans in. I've got lots of early X-mas presents showing up: Silver Mine front and rear brake kits, bushings, coilovers, and seam sealer, epoxy and high fill polyester primer.
  7. Do you mean P0154? P0154 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1) https://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS309-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B001LHQBMC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1510758097&sr=8-13&keywords=obd+code+reader <-- I keep one of these in my truck. It'll show you codes and live data. I agree with checking the wiring in the harness for continuity. Is it a stock F-body harness or was it modified? They could have crossed a wire or one might have broken if they extended plugs or something.
  8. Maybe reach out to Futofab or Whitehead. Z Car Depot also has 930CV conversion stuff...
  9. Started working on the roll bar. It's a "Jegster" kit that I'm making fit more to my liking. I tacked it in place to the car and welded in most of the bars then removed so I would weld all the way around the top. The bottom of the "X" will be installed once it goes back in car. Did a little porting on the 241 heads: I also found this mess after I decided to take the entire car back down to the metal: It looks like it had a panel replacement at some point with metal that was run over repeatedly on a gravel road. Solid 1/2" of bondo covering it. The body line break was all bondo. I've ordered new quarters and rockers. I think it'll be much easier to replace the panels than try and fix them at this point. Once the panels are in I need to order seats to figure out brackets and then then the floor pans/ tunnel can get finished. I'm planning on starting on the headers soon. It's going to be a tri-y and 180* design combined. Should be interesting. Progress is slow but it's progress...
  10. SH4DY

    Project Carbon LS30

    Trials and tribulations of an S30 build
  11. So, after allll that work I decided it was best to just take it all back to the metal and start from scratch. The car has had at least 3 paint jobs and all those layers added up. It wound up being more trouble than it was worth trying to smooth out that mess or find a "good" layer. I'm glad I did though - it's going to make life much easier in the long run. . Painted the underside of the hood. There was some trash that got in the gun so the spray pattern wasn't great but I'm hoping I can clear it up with a little wet sanding. Finally started working on patching the firewall. Still a lot of grinding to go but she's coming along. It's good to not have that gaping hole anymore.
  12. Any updates on this? Was looking forward to seeing more of this awesome fab work.
  13. I decided to cut out those two rods. The one was right on the panel and it was was already trapping trash and was going to make smoothing the area a shore. I'll be adding a another down bar but it'll be a single curved 1.5" dia tube. Made some progress (?) on stripping, blocking, priming the body. Still a long way to go. Hope to have it primed by the end of the weekend. Then on to the floor pans and trans tunnel...
  14. Not sure why those pictures are so damn big
  15. Started boxing in the former battery tray area: Trans is in! Going to have to redo the majority of the trans tunnel. Next step is to get a bead roller and start on the floors and finish the firewall. I think I might wind up going SLA ford 8.8": I started pricing out 5 lug conversions, brakes, suspension, LSD, axles, etc and its pretty cost prohibitive to keep the IRS. Pretty sure with a good 4 link and watts setup I can get this thing to handle pretty well... at least for any auto-x or back road driving I may do.