the 280zx doesn't seem to get any attention from parts manufactures when it comes to LS swaps. it took a lot of work to get mine done and I know who ever else has it done had to do the same. im just curious to see how many are out there and id love to see the different things people have done to get past certain road blocks such as mounts and headers. I know I had a lot of issues with mounts and oil pans and especially headers. if I can help with any issues I am more than happy to share my build. I modified JTR motor and trans mounts for a SBC to work with my LS. I used a stupid expensive oil pan from canton to get the motor low enuff. it has a very shallow front sump to clear the pwr steering rack. headers I originally used a manifold on driver side and block hugger on pass. side. now I have Billy Boat shorty headers for a c5 that I still had to modify. again, please post yours. how many of us are there?
280zx's with Ls swaps280zx LSswap
Posted 19 October 2016 - 03:59 PM
13-270A - GM LS1 5 1/4” DEEP AL F-BODY RACE BAFFLED PAN (13-270A)
Posted 19 October 2016 - 05:48 PM
Posted 20 October 2016 - 05:27 AM
Posted 20 October 2016 - 10:52 AM
Edited by G-Tech, 25 October 2016 - 04:21 PM.
- 30 ounce likes this
Posted 20 October 2016 - 10:59 AM
sorry for the extra post here but the pic of my steering shaft shows that I drilled and tapped threw it to put a screw threw it then what the picture doesn't show is that it allowed me to cut that ear off so that I had more clearance. there is pics of 2 different options for headers, both of which still had to be modified before they would fit. I also made a solid aluminum spacer to get rid of the rubber piece on the shaft. I made it smaller diameter than the rubber piece for more spacing.
Edited by G-Tech, 20 October 2016 - 11:09 AM.
Posted 22 October 2016 - 10:32 AM
Edited by G-Tech, 24 October 2016 - 04:44 PM.
Posted 02 November 2016 - 09:48 AM
Very nice! I'm going to put a iron block Lq4 in my 82, trying to get the L28 pulled this week. I'm leaning towards cutting the pan down and getting a crank scrapper, trying to do this on a budget but it usually gets thrown out the window anyway. you said you were using the Jtr mounts. I found these...
These look beefy for the price. Any pictures of the jtr mount installation process? I figured this is going to be one of the biggest hurdles in the build, I'm really curious how other s130 people handled this. Notching the cross member, pan, motor mounts used and set up, cost?
Art mimics life
Posted 02 November 2016 - 01:50 PM
Posted 02 November 2016 - 01:51 PM
Edited by G-Tech, 02 November 2016 - 01:59 PM.
Posted 04 November 2016 - 03:33 PM
Art mimics life
Posted 05 November 2016 - 06:20 AM
Posted 10 November 2016 - 10:21 PM
If I was going to the extent of caging and stitch welding there would be no iron block in the mix, unless you are going over the power limit of the al block. As G-tech said, get that engine and trans as low and far back as possible, then with an al block you will get close to 50/50 weight distribution and a low C of G. Those are two of the basics of a good race car, there is no ignoring them if you are serious.
Posted 11 November 2016 - 07:14 PM
I have been searching Hybrid and the web for the last week and have found very little info on anything revolving around strengthening the s130 platform specificly. I'll let you guys know what I'm up too (don't mean to jack your thread G-tech, since I am still building this car) Kicker is I already have the iron block 99 6.0 Lq4, so I'm already stuck with this power plant. I did just pick up some 317 aluminum heads, those will get a match port and polish over the winter. LSX/fast style intake, bigger throttle body, valve springs ARP studs and and eventually turbo it. A T56 behined that Ls2 to run the r200 and chromoloy shafts (already has turbo halfshafts from the L28ET swap years ago). I want to be in the 500hp range on pump gas (I can always detune on the street), mainly a weekend driver, auto X on ocassion and run the 1/4 mile. jebus I sound like a newbie. I do realize I absolutly need to get that motor tucked low and as far back as possible. Now, is the 200 # between the two blocks (I realize she will be a little nose heavy) going to make that much of a difference when I start pushing hp #s like that?
I have been searching threads for suspension, frame/seam welding, roll cage vs bars all the while trying to figure out A.) How I am going to use this car, and B.) How am I going to stiffen this thing up. I want a street car so I feel a full cage is going to just be dangerous, when we go out for a Friday night cruise. I have the car gutted right now while I deal with the rust and have been making a plan to ditch as much weight as possible. I picked up some manual window regulators and the rear hatch glass got broken, so that will get lexan, stock dash will return. Heater core will stay for cold nights, A/C is gone. I will probably put sound deadner in the front and plan on welding the little body holes closed. From some of the other stuff I have been reading there is a huge problem with the rear trailing arms throwing the tire into the front of the rear wheel well over 400hp, so that will need to be adressed.
I have seriously been considering buying a rotisserie so I can have much easier access to the belly when I do the pans and rails, then I can strip the undercoating and seam weld it. I have had this car for 16 years and want to do it right, for the last time. That's a lot of ground I just covered, so long story short I have been trying to figure out how to approach this whole project since I have a tendency to be a little sporadic at times. OK, so let me have it, what do y'all think of all that?
Art mimics life
Posted 12 November 2016 - 06:24 AM
Posted 12 November 2016 - 04:53 PM
260 DET, I figured since I was running the iron block and adding extra weight and pushing 500hp that the car would definetly benifit from stitch welding and a 4 point roll bar (if I can find a good deal on an AL block later on I'll swap them out, the vortec was for another project that got sold). Assuming that CG is as far inboard and as low as possible, in your opinion (anybody feel free to jump in here) is seam welding and a roll bar over kill for a 500hp streetable appilcation that will see some minimal/moderate track time? How much HP will the s130 frame handle before it starts to fatigue?
Sorry about the hijack G-Tech, like you said "there doesn't seem to be many already done" either that or people are out driving them and not documenting it. When I came across this thread I got really intrigued since I am working on this very thing. Did any of you do a build thread? Maybe throw a link to it up in here as well and try to consolidate some info for other people looking to do this swap. Anybody that is this far down the rabbit hole is prepared to throw time and money at the car, if your not you might want to reconsider.
Personally I'm really interested in how everyone stiffened there car up, battery relocation and weight distribution, brakes and suspension being taken into consideration as well. I feel CG and proper engine/ driveline angles are the secondary aspect of this build, tough part is figuring out how your going to drive it and build it around that. what are you guys/gals using your s130 ls swap cars for, race or street? Did every one else already have a SBC in there s130 before deciding to convert to the LS? Personally I did not so I am kinda working from scratch.
Edited by subhuman, 12 November 2016 - 04:54 PM.
Art mimics life
Posted 13 November 2016 - 06:57 AM
Edited by G-Tech, 13 November 2016 - 02:39 PM.
Posted 13 November 2016 - 09:33 PM
Point taken on the cage. One of the reasons I want to stitch weld it is it needs quite a bit of rust cut out of the pans and the rails are collapsed and getting rough. I already replaced a 12" chunk of the channel above the exhaust and have the whole rear floor out right now (i'll try and start uploading some pictures this week, just been busy) I figure it would be easier to get a rotisserie spin her around and deal with it properly (Airplane stripper works great on undercoating btw, just need to let it sit for 15-25 minutes). Figured I would stitch it if I'am that far in and have to strip undercoating anyways, I have the whole rear floor pan out right now so the battery relocation is on my list as well. I have a good 3 core Griffen aluminum radiator that has been cooling the L28ET for the last 5 years, great upgrade. What did you do for fuel lines and a pump? I'm going to run the stock tank (just had it vatted) and braze AN fittings on the sender and run 3/8" hard line feed and use the stock 5/16" (feed) for the return. I was browsing the other night and somebody was saying they went with flex line so there were less fittings. I have an Aeromotive 11540 that is in tank and flows 340 lph at 90 psi, I was thinking about modifying the pick up to run that but I need to do some more research on it. Well, I'm going to start going through some pictures this week and show you where I am at with the body.
Art mimics life
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