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Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

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240zJJR,  You did a nice job on bracing.   If you are worried about the present frame condition, you can take frame measurements with your car

on the rotisserie.   If you have access to the auto body shop, borrow a Tram gauge( for frame measurements) and frame gauges( these 3 gauges 

will show if your frame in alignment (centerline and height).   If the major part of your frame is crooked. it will next to impossible to repair after a full

roll cage is installed.   The frame machine will tear the vehicle apart.    A good frame man should be able check the vehicle in less than an hour.

The other option( if the frame is real bad) is build a entire tube chassis and mount the 240Z body shell on it.   By the way, are you building a street car

or a full race car?


Edited by toolman
correct text

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     As I have not recovered fully from the lower back injury,  I doing light work on my car till I recover.   To prevent or at least delay any

future corrosion, I am making rust proofing access holes.  But, first the front end of the car, water drainage holes were added.   

      On the left front fender reinforcement section, four 1/4" holes were drilled in the lower edge to provide additional drainage.


The interior of this reinforcement and air inlet tube  will also be rust proofed after painting.

The right side had similar work done.





This picture gives a overall view of the left side rocker panel drilled for rust proofing access holes.IMG_4340.thumb.JPG.f9e7454fe97103ea158a3909a80c9e1e.JPG


The left front rocker panel had three 1/2"  rust proofing holes drilled.


The large hole was the area where corrosion was cut out.   As this area is a major rust area, the interior will probably be brushed painted with a rust encapsulating paint then welded shut and rust proofed.


The lower rear rocker panel had two 1/2" rust proofing holes drilled.   The inside of this area will also be brushed painted with a rust encapsulating paint then rust proofed.


Without these access holes, you would not be able to get rust proofing into those rust prone areas of the car.



IMG_4328.JPGRight frame hole shows what the  1/2"rust proofing plug looks like installed.  Both connecting frame rails have four rust proofing holes each.   All of the 1/2" rustproofing holes will be plugged after rust proofed.

Edited by toolman

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Finally got four more tubes of  SEM PRODUCTS sprayable seam sealer.  So now I could add two more coats of sealer on the bottom side of the passenger compartment.   This would provide additional protection against heat and noise in this area.  


 Note- the four casters for moving the car around the garage were removed.   Once I finished painting the bottom of the car. the car will be removed from the rotisserie and place on jack stands.

1807958642_IMG_4365(1).thumb.JPG.b2b0aee6394420e90cf30bf08ef6e68c.JPGSave the casters to make HD dolly or another project

Closeup up view of the seam sealer texture


Seam sealer was sprayed on additional areas in the interior of  the car.



The rear underbelly also receive additional coats of seam sealer.

1282034774_IMG_4366(2).thumb.JPG.7a307830c289f429e8ea0f10131f4a6a.JPGRear crossmember

Rear bottom( spare tire well)



Rear frame area


another closeup view of seam sealerIMG_4377.thumb.JPG.6fbb15bcc75978fb533b72091476ab7b.JPG 

Trans tunnel and frame rails recoated



Next step will spray painting the whole bottom and engine compartment with Sherwin Williams single stage polyurethane paint.

Edited by toolman
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fluidmotion, I used SEM PRODUCTS 1K sprayable seam sealer.  It is a modified high performamce polmar silane seam sealer.  

It is OEM approved and used for Chrysler as a undercoating.  .It is flexible and non sagging.  Also, this sealer can be painted immediately

after application.  It comes in white, beige, gray and black colors.   Amazon sells it for about $15 to $20.  There is newer sprayable seam sealer

2K seam sealer( two part).   Both sealers require a special spray gun to apply though.    

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fluidmotion, ,   I am sorry,  I forgot to answer your other question.   I removed all of the factory seam sealer from my car.   The old factory seal sealer was cracking and peeling off.   The new poly seam sealer are much better than the old one(more flexible and resilient).  For an even more through job, I sprayed seam sealer over areas prone to corrosion.  Like 

the battery area where battery acid and flumes cause rapid corrosion on the metal.   Then top coating the whole car(interior and exterior) with polyurethane paint(aircraft paint)which should last for 10+ years.

Edited by toolman

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Sorry for not posting in for a while.  I was busy decorating my house for Christmas.


Painted the bottom side and inside of the interior of the car.


View of bottom of the front frame



The bottom view of the floor pan and frame connectors.



The rear of frame and bottom side of hatch area



The interior floor and firewall was painted then the bottom side of the roof was painted too.



The engine compartment and core support was covered with two coats of single stage polyurethane paint.

IMG_4439.thumb.JPG.75a06e05cbcfd090efb2559de23c0531.JPGView  inside of the cowl area


The spare tire well 


Only the interior of both doors, the hatch and front valance pan still have to be painted with single stage Polyurethane paint.  The

rest of the exterior parts of the car will be painted with polyurethane base color then clear coated.




IMG_0406.JPGHouse Christmas decorations

Snoopy and Star Wars theme

Edited by toolman

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