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Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

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Just returned from vacation in Tokyo.   While travelling the rural area, I manage a get a picture{not a good one though} of a Japanese Snap On Tool Truck.

IMG_0590.JPG.da7af4c94f855fbea27f12fc474272cb.JPG  I think it is only about 12' long box van.   Tiny in US standards. 

Snap On Tools  in Japan sell for double of US prices too.


 However, when I returned home. there was a Big Surprise for me.   The Greddy S30 Rocket Bunny Full Body kit was waiting for me.  The shipping box was about 18" x 24" x 8 foot long thick card board.   It was packed very well also.   These kits are only manufactured when you order it.   It 

took 9 months before I received it.  But as the pictures show the quality and workmanship was top notch.

IMG_0239.JPG.9500c1f9b6e3e57319f057bbc4ef5735.JPG The Rocket Bunny Kit consists of one- Front Lower Panel, one Front Bumper, two

Front Fenders, two-Rear Fender Flares, one Rear Spoiler and bag of Miscellaneous Mounting bolts/ Fender Gap Inserts.

I am including detail pic of the individual fiberglass parts so their  quality workmanship can be seen.

IMG_0243.JPG.950586822a2df9da919a0847315e5a19.JPG  Front view of parts


IMG_0244.JPG.ec64b3af7558f7d3b67f1eb5504c4eb4.JPG  Rear View of Parts


351284975_IMG_0457(1).JPG.4d4025e02ae6dd503f60ea22d30ad021.JPG  Inside of Front Lower Panel( note-the smooth figerglass layout and finishing

sanding of the edges.}

781719614_IMG_0459(1).JPG.78d19281006a2cda203f36955b4d5d11.JPG Backside of Front Fender


2074894473_IMG_0460(1).JPG.6da2eb7ddef33a1609e9ee44cac162ea.JPG Inside of Rear Flares


597498190_IMG_0465(1).JPG.ec64356e02f289497b2a8d09b72af024.JPG  Outside view of Front Lower Panel

Note-very detailed with Turn Signal mounting holes.


IMG_0464.JPG.6a64791eb389e01471615856ca18f5aa.JPG Exterior view- smooth and detailed


709844053_IMG_0466(1).JPG.a1a9c59b9368731763fae5815afa014e.JPG  Inside view 0f Front Bumper

Note- Front Bumper Mounting insert

IMG_0471.JPG.44966595d79aa38bd013e7ef12395ba1.JPG Top View-Front Bumper


330884940_IMG_0473(1).JPG.0222b3a86a6efbd3796ce0ad56594280.JPG Rear View-Rear Spoiler


IMG_0474.JPG.f81ea0118b2fdcaae5c1c0c7a9a3a2d4.JPG Front view-Rear Spoiler


The real test of a good body kit is its fitment.   Those cheap Chinese kits usually require a lot of manhours to make them to look decent.

IMG_0211.JPG.55cee7e0d2a9d9525610c1209f9bb467.JPGFront bumper and lower front panel


Left front Flare


IMG_0208.JPG.0c5b90de0d3a0618462ad3fe84bf3a2b.JPG Right Front flare


IMG_0206.JPG.ae464eedc4c77ad40ae5ecca1428b9b7.JPG  Left rear flare(note separate door flare


1812684570_IMG_0237(1).JPG.9c235801c954365c97b3920b004b92ef.JPG  Side view of Rocket Bunny Body kit


IMG_0238.JPG.946bd3a719e5edc14aa6d977c09dff4a.JPG Front view of Rocket Bunny Kit


The Front Flares only require trimming the fender to make it work.   The rear flares will require more manhours to fill the gap between the inner and outer quarter panels and the outer flare.




Edited by toolman
photo correction, text cprrected
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  • 3 weeks later...

Left Front Fender modifications for Greddy Flares.

After placing Rocket Bunny flare against the fender then mark the area to be removed with a black marker pen.



A Electric shears was used to cut the major removal cuts.

IMG_0233.JPG.51bc50101261af8b7c4c81a7b66e0c50.JPG  Always cut carefully to prevent "over cutting too much".


IMG_0235.JPG.66657f4fe577fe74c5bfb7d59cd6d633.JPG A Hand Nibbler was used in the Finishing Cuts.


The Finished Product



Rear Wheel Housing Modifications for the Rear Flares-

Like the Front flare. the Rear Rocket Bunny Flares are mocked against the existing quarter panel.

IMG_0228.JPG.fc09a3856f549a268dd09050d650e0b2.JPG The Outer edge of the flare is marked

with a Black Marker Pen.

In my case, I had already removed the original wheel opening edge when I constructed metal flares previously, there was a little less

of the quarter panel to remove.

IMG_0437.JPG.56b38f45c86517154c3ed4256a02da28.JPG Bottom view of the wheel well(looking upward from the ground)

As the photos show the gap between the quarter panel and wheel housing  was only about 3/4".  So I could have just squeeze both panels together

and mig welded them together.   But I decided to cut an additional 3" higher to give more tire clearance and allow more body drop.  Better to do it

now instead of later.

IMG_E0714.JPG.f8b3498cbf81cf974aa6e554f3f6de80.JPGSide view of additional cutout.


But now, the gap  between quarter panel and wheel housing increased by about 2 1/2".   So fillers had to made to fill these gaps.

IMG_0737.JPG.953398b2f5b9592e59114c0ec33d8a98.JPG Patch being mocked up.


The Sheetmetal Roller was utilized roll the metal to match the wheel housing.

IMG_0739.JPG.fc31c65fd34af22dd831d4df146b6ddc.JPG    IMG_0740.JPG.34ae112dd47f5e2f6464152473f8ec4a.JPG  making gap fillers


IMG_0748.JPG.495105d9e483a24d0f9d84e52e7439c4.JPGOverall view of the gap fillers

IMG_E0743.JPG.2d5e5332f6c29fba14cfa4c7265b43be.JPG      IMG_0744.JPG.c2a6d05cb11573c47f4007448dea6f95.JPG

An Air Punch/Flanger is used to flange the edges of the fillers to make the filler surface smooth and stronger.


Cleco pins and vise grips hold the gap filler plates in place for welding.



The front of the Left wheel well housing needed a patch so a paper template was created.

IMG_0754.JPG.05725a33688183921b3cb501ab583401.JPGNote- the bottom of this patch had to be

"rolled over" by making a slit on the bottom then hammer welded the slit closed.


The patch started as a flat piece of 20 gauge sheet metal that heated with a torch to soften it.

IMG_0752.JPG.c621bb429ab2802e72cce36ae2734b47.JPG     IMG_0741.JPG.325e158b81ab7b911be2c299464ca9f9.JPG


Then was hammered with a Shaping Hammer on a Leather Shot Bag to shape the patch.


IMG_0753.JPG.3b9b26fb71693b3fb01c828a60ff7754.JPG Additional pounding with a Ball Peen Hammmer.


IMG_0757.JPG.f2eb6904ebb77b3a82ce0551ca4f8062.JPG  The Patch fitted into place then tack welded in.


The inside portion of the wheel well patch was covered with Fusor Seam Sealer.IMG_0776.JPG.bcc7dd321e65ffe07ba00407b60e84c0.JPG


IMG_E0780.JPG.40f79ff8adc983fba34f0d215440f413.JPG  Inside of the wheel housing,  EverCoat  Epoxy Seam Sealer was applied over all welds and all seams.    Polyurethane paint will be spray painted over all of the repaired areas.    The inside wheel well areas will also be covered with

Urethane BedLiner for additional protection.



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Thank you Nelsonian,  Here are additional pics of flaring modifications.

IMG_E0788.JPG.88e5afc75208d5f5796673b432bdbe49.JPGAfter sealing the inner top section of the wheel housing, area was painted with polyurethane paint.


IMG_E0783.JPG.42841c3f58b9b0ae8e8ad52945a508bf.JPG Bottom view of wheel well housing after



IMG_0782.JPG.37ed038736e1071f5f8d8d7b2f7fc97d.JPG  Overall view of rear flaring modifications



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  • 2 weeks later...

 Replicating the Left Rear Wheel Housing to the Right Side.

To do this task, will require making a paper template of the newly modified Left Rear Flare opening.   A large piece of paper was placed

over the L/R flare opening.  The major reference lines to be traced are: #1 The Front Edge of the Rear Quarter Panel.  #2 is the Wheel Well

Opening Edge.

IMG_0791.JPG.ca30da32e91929375212a25a651da85a.JPG The distance between the Top Center of the Wheel Opening to the one of 

body holes for mounting the Rear Quarter Glass.   The measurement will be the height of the flare opening.



You may have to darken your Guide Edges if their ink is not visible on the opposite side of the template.   Remember you have to use the opposite

side the template for the correct orientation.   Using the edge guide line and height measurement to align the template on the Right Side.


Make sure to securely tape the top edge of the template to the quarter panel as you don't wanted the pattern moving.


The Orange Lines in this closup show the areas to must be filled in because overcutting from previous flaring.  This provides pattern

for the filler panels.


Creating the Rear Filler panel. Note- guide lines help to keep filler aligned.




The Front Filler Panel being created.


Pic of the Inner Wheel housing to Quarter Panel Filler patch Template.



To make this Flare Opening a little easier to weld the quarter panel and wheel housingtogether,   3/16" Steel Rod from Home Depot( $13 for 8Ft)

was used.  The rod would weld between quarter panel and wheel housing filler.   It prevents burn through especially with .023 sheet metal.



On the Front Side of Quarter Panel (Dog Leg Section), there are some curves in the panel so you must bend the rod to follow the curves.


That task is accomplished by holding one end of rod with vise grips and using a torch to soften the 3/16" rod.  Then bending the rod until the

required shape is obtained.

    Note-I have used this technique of welding round steel rods around flare opening on many cars.   You can use 3/16" to 3/4" steel tubing or even brake lines to outline the tire openings.   But solid  steel rods don't kink like fuel lines would  This method really reinforces the edge and prevents tire damage in case there is contact.


For those of you who are tired of getting burnt by hot sparks while welding in confined areas, I would recommend getting this welding gear.

The Tight Fitting Welding /Grinder Automatic Darkening Hood  Gear.   Regular Welding Helmets were never made for tight confined areas.

After trying this welding gear at the Sema Show, I ordered one for myself.

IMG_E0824.JPG.413d007b6b8241820404b34a649594d9.JPG     IMG_0826.JPG.21f4a0b9140ece1b62ad74895db7cecc.JPG   


The Rear Filler Patch mig welded in place.



Pic of the Front Wheel Housing patch template.




IMG_E0834.JPG.11a050be8e7dc9e9daf46417f02f3648.JPG  This patch was created using Left and Right Cut Tinsnips.   They make cutting curves


IMG_0840.JPG.918006c53d27186bad4f1f180b10c6e5.JPG Front patch after hammering and metal shaping.


IMG_0841.JPG.a4fec6b4c5d5572556d11faf8185896d.JPG      IMG_E0842.JPG.48d6fdbbd145381c5d20d9396101a59f.JPG    

The area to be filled in.                                                                                              Patch test fitted.


IMG_E0852.JPG.776e0f237e634d594b400bbc6b3cd856.JPG  Top Wheel Housing Filler patch


IMG_E0853.JPG.dff3ae1527083803c2f9b9964961720c.JPG   Rear Wheel Housing Patch


IMG_E0854.JPG.19051c745d2af67e96a3a9d9cf0301a7.JPG Rear Housing Filler patch




The Next Thing to do is spray Raptor Bedliner over the inner wheel housing for extra protection.  Then Top Coat it with Single Stage Polyurethane paint.

Edited by toolman
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  • 3 weeks later...

Richard, Thanks for complement.

      The cowl area was masked for seam sealer spraying for added protection.



Sem Products Sprayable Seam Sealer                                                              Using  Sem Sealer Spray Gun

IMG_0880.JPG.cdfadb9b5d2337cca4ec5bd2ccce0ba1.JPG          IMG_E0881.JPG.9b7d78d607eab9704ba31d9c91432989.JPG


IMG_E0878.JPG.f650e964096b8c28cd4ab33d02f3ea6a.JPG   Central cowl area sprayed


IMG_E0876.JPG.85162c12af09439ef5519f38a6c8e749.JPG   right side of cowl


IMG_E0879.JPG.d42eb4d473aecac06d1da510427a3147.JPG    Left Rear Wheel Housing interior area sprayed.



Seam Sealer was sprayed in between the quarter panel and wheel housing area( the patched area) too.

IMG_0868.JPG.59d3105d5461388ed64a48284068d2eb.JPG  Note-the 3/16" steel rod between the quarter panel and wheel housing can be seen.


This view shows seam sealer coverage on the inside of the front of the wheel housing.



View of the  bottom of the fuel filler area sprayed.



Upper area of the fuel filler area.   Note-the back side of the fuel filler compartment was also sprayed.



The Right wheel housing was sprayed with White Raptor Bedliner after Fusion Seam Sealer was applied over all patch seams.

IMG_0882.JPG.dd5bf0136f3c48eac5523389e4785df6.JPG  Front view of Right Wheel housing sprayed.


IMG_E0885.JPG.6c702ff8d0616fb49fe54abf8204e978.JPG  Right rear Wheel housing sprayed.


Pic of my garage work area.



Suspension parts painted with Gloss Black Single Stage Polyurethane Paint on my driveway.



IMG_0897.JPG.f6888a4056ddc6a515373dd61f97f001.JPG   R200 differential was also painted.


IMG_0899.JPG.3854d5f7a7375bc679b8bfffd896523a.JPG   Rear Strut housing painted.


Next thing for me to do is replacing bearings and bushings suspension parts and the reassembly begins.

Edited by toolman
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  • 2 weeks later...

Rear Suspension Overhaul:

     A Threaded Steel Rod with nuts and assorted washers were used to install rear control arm outer bushings.

IMG_0902.JPG.b44caf60e85f95373ba6cd9ef55a5573.JPG  This method was used because although slow, it has less chance of damaging the

steel metal bushing housing on these control arms.


Ordered ZDepot 50mm extended wheel studs and Muteki extra long wheel lug nuts from EBAY.   They maybe necessary to gain proper wheel fitment later.



The old wheels studs were removed by hammering them into the large metal tube.



Hub parts were powdered coated.

IMG_E0908.JPG.01b74a638c71823ba8397844da53ae8c.JPG       IMG_E0911.JPG.6ef6f301a2ff1483f514c4b04b55d07e.JPG


Lisle Tools Wheel Stud Installer only requires a 1/2 impact gun and lug  socket to install the new wheel studs.



The Hub Outer Bearing was pressed on the hub.



The Outer Hub bearing was then packed with grease.  The whole assembly was pressed into the strut housing.



Now, by looking into the  inner bearing bore-check the two casting cutouts to determine if the bearing is properly seated.   After

which. the bearing cavity and spacer is packed with grease.   I used a paint paddle to spread the grease into the cavity.



The Inner Bearing(non sealed one) is packed with grease.



To install this bearing, you can use the old bearing to tap the new one in.  Don't worry the old one won't get stuck in.

Keep tapping it until a solid feeling and sound occurs for proper seating.



Coat the inside of the seal with grease especially the seal lip.   Tap the seal with hammer( can use old bearing also) to about 3/16" below edge.

Then, the flange. washer and locking nut are installed.



A Dial !/2 Torque Wrench was used to torque the Locking Nut.   Specifications call for 180 to 250FT LBS.   The reason of the range is the Bearing Preload cannot be determined by Foot Pounds alone.   So you slowly torque to 180 ft lbs then check turning torque and keep doing this till everything is right.  The Hub Shaft nut turning torque is about 4 inch pounds.  The shaft endplay is 0  to .0059.    You will need a Dial Indicator to do this but not necessary. So you try to achieve all these parameters to get a accurate bearing preload.

IMG_0946.JPG.779c81d2db7a5aedf618fbae821f6353.JPG  1/2 Dial Torque Wrench


IMG_0941.JPG.69f874391ee3675cdc2768429236cb07.JPG  A Dial Inch Pound Torque Wrench checking Turning Torque( about 4 inlbs)


A Dial Indicator can be utilized to check for 0 to .0059"  End Play

After completing Bearing Preload, I flattened the Locking Nut tab to prevent the Hub Nut from loosening.




IMG_E0939.JPG.2926244ae077e5400a0a4d35bdc8efbd.JPG        IMG_E0945.JPG.ab83731b1a564300b67689631677dff9.JPG


Next, the Rear Flares will be attached.    The Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool will be installed to check fitment issues.


Edited by toolman
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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the delayed reply.  My 87 HONDA TRX350 ATV transmission shifter was jammed in gear.   As it required me to split the outer left and right cases, the repair took two days to complete.

It had to be repaired as it occupies the garage opposite of the 240z and there would be no space to work.



This Front Loader Conversion to my Honda ATV was done before I started the 240Z restromod.  I scratch built on a 87 HONDA TRX350

ALL WHEEL DRIVE ATV IN about a year ago.   It can lift 400lbs in the loader bucket and has a 30 gallon water tank in the rear for ballast.   The conversion was made to be Bolt On Accessory and can be removed in about 30 minutes.   



Now back to the Z Project.

   All Four of the Flares were painted inside and out with Polyurethane Primer.

IMG_1023.JPG.4471408bdaefbe5af50cd6fd61c797f9.JPG           IMG_1024.JPG.fd498760fab947e75e0f2f7998a6a6dc.JPG

Had problems removing silicone from the mold release on the flares.   Had to use Wax and Grease Remover and HD Water base soap several times to get the silicone off.

Due the Windy conditions, I had to paint the parts in garage so had the cover the 240z with Plastic Sheeting to prevent overspray.



The Plastic Sheeting can be gotten from automotive paint suppliers.



Wheel Fitment Tool

    Finally get to use the Wheel Fitment Tool that was made coupe of months ago.



This was the closest size tire that I could find to use-225x 45x 18.   The wheel that I will be simulating is Rota RKR 17 x 9 1/2 with 20mm  negative offset.  As the sample tire is not large enough,  it will be used with the majority of the tire will be facing outward to check fitment.   As I running lowered coilovers, the inner clearance with strut is not a problem.


First, install the Fitment tool with two lower legs set to 18 " diameter and third leg retracted.  Now, adjust the two lower legs tire width adjustors to fit securely.



Now, Adjust the upper third leg to obtain the 18"diameter and adjust the tire width adjusters for a snug fit.




The only  wheel that I found that had specifications came close  was ROTA RKR 17 x 9.5  with -20MM offset.

I put its specifications on a wooden paint mixing stick.

IMG_1026.JPG.f902a770dd20a52a98ce0a82c19e37ea.JPG Remember that this tire is only 18" so the 9 1/2 tire will stick more inward.


IMG_E1034.JPG.e448fd89d772f74eb1da73f2157a8628.JPG  This stick show the wheel offset.  The "C" line indicates the center line of the Rota wheel.



  The inner end of the stick indicates the width of a 274/45 tire.


IMG_E0999.JPG.2cf6c06d1c399bc62977e98e94ed47bf.JPG    Front tire clearance shown


IMG_1030.JPG.391b5ea13950228b9db3d77c644e1011.JPG  Front to rear view



Side View of the Wheel/ Tire Fitment Tool on the car.   As the car is on a dolly and there is almost no weight in the car, something had to be done

to set Ride Height.    So I removed the upper strut spring section to allow upward movement of the suspension.   I set the ride height setting the center of the wheel hub to the lower body line of the car.   From most pics of street driven lowered 240z cars,  the center of the rear hubs were in line with the body line.   

This is not perfect way but I think it is close enough to demonstrate ride height until I can actually load the suspension after the complete swap.



For those of you, that wanted more tire fitment information, I bent a 1/8" wire shaped to match the tire cross section that you wanted to check.

IMG_0983.JPG.763c60394bf049de8ae81555b352604b.JPG In this case, a 274 x45 tire cross section was created and bolted to one of the wheel legs.


IMG_0985.JPG.7bd888d43a44896a68483836b3bc5a4e.JPG  You  just rotate the simulated tire cross section to check any clearance issues with body and strut.


IMG_0986.JPG.55e756bf69ae9c3778a43b2235921a0c.JPG   Check Front Clearance of the flare.


IMG_E1025.JPG This rear view demonstrates what a 274 tire would look look like.

Remember the 275 tire  would extend to the end of the stick or about a inch more inward.


The next thing to do is to put the Tire/Wheel Fitment Tool on the front suspension and see what tire/wheel combination

could work on there.

Edited by toolman
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  • 2 weeks later...

   I had planned to work on installing the front suspension parts on my Z but I discovered that my supply of Gold powder was almost gone.

So while I waited for the Gold Powder to arrive, I decided to finishing cutting the Right Front fender for the Rocket Bunny Flares.   Like the Rear Flares, I made a Template of the already completed Left Front Fender.

IMG_1062.JPG.e27c568fe4974e818d755390811d6397.JPG  Note- I use almost all the fender edges( top, back, front and bottom) to create the

template.  The more reference points that you use, the more accurate the template will be.

IMG_1063.JPG.9e5221d3698a92525ff65488d24af644.JPG  Side view of template


Put template on the Right fender then

IMG_E1064.JPG.5c8f1d9a1fdad3df0a6b29c2c15667c2.JPG  Transfer the trim lines using a Black Marker pen.


A Tin Snips was used to trim the fender.   It was used as cutting thin metal like the front fender, vibrates a lot and making it hard to control.

IMG_1067.JPG.dc54fc038204658dcba5bbd40b35e3eb.JPG       IMG_1060.JPG.2855df562f6a1568ce149e7ab040b4ec.JPG  

Note- make sure to grind all trimmed edges to prevent future sheet metal cracks.

Next thing to do was to clean all of the Front Suspension parts in preparation for painting or powder coating.   The rear stub axles were prepped at the same time to conserve  paint materials.

   All the parts were first cleaned with cup wire brush on a 4 1/2 electric grinder to remove the heavy grease, dirt and paint.   Then a Heavy Grease Removal soap ( was used  straight without dilution) was used.   First, with the parts cleaning brush then with a air solvent gun shooting the degreaser( now diluted) to get those hard to get to areas.



 IMG_1057.JPG.908f7a7b51f17af472769a60047042f8.JPG Blasting away 


 IMG_1059.JPG.c5bd4e086edecdd2c5d0dadd4456b77b.JPG   Stub axles after paining with Black Polyurethane paint.  Note- the rubber joint

boots were masked off otherwise the axles would have been disassembled to remover them.


The other suspension parts after Polyurethane Painting.



IMG_1048.JPG.0c6a731b8797cace1f0a11dc4cc03a3a.JPG   Before Powder Coating


IMG_1049.JPG.748c5059c910b3ef02a9524325e12717.JPG   After Powder coating


RRMJ4605.JPG.b9f061f3dd0c64f8c0f7e6ca0a064c0e.JPG  A flange bolt powder coated


Front crossmember mounted

IMG_1071.JPG.f99de9e0d646a6ed6352426461e74f81.JPG   Note- new Camber adjusting bolts were installed.

IMG_1070.JPG.76d9088d9043c536bf7fd067f67fa687.JPG Front to rear view of Front Suspension.  Note -The Powder coated parts gives

a nice contrast with Gloss Black suspension parts.   


IMG_1073.JPG.f481fb11cf0f25fc0369f0217013b88b.JPG   Side view of the Right Side Suspension


It took a lot of cleaning, grinding, painting and powder coating but I think it was worth it.

    Next, installing the Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool on the Front Suspension to check it out, is next.



Edited by toolman
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  • 3 weeks later...

  The Left Rear Flare was mocked on by creating a template of the completed Right Rear Flare.



The Rocket Bunny Front Valance Panel mocked on the car,



Pictures of the Greddy Rocket Bunny Front Valance Mounting points.

1568142272_IMG_1086(1).JPG.1f6d923d7b3c02b3351d984413b44ca2.JPG  Note-the original holes were only 3/16".




It was at this point that I decided to add additional mounts from the car frame to fiberglass front valance panel.  Otherwise, it would not be

strong enough for even a street vehicle.

   The mounting brackets would be constructed with 1/4"solid steel rod and 1/8" steel plate.

IMG_1112.JPG.cfb942960f68fa5bdd326d083dbb6d5d.JPG  Center mount was mounted to the frame extending to center of Valance Panel.


  Mig Welding of the side Valance Mounts


The Valance mounts would extend to both L/R sides of the grille and marker lamp areas.



IMG_1129.JPG.4e0fdd6b48e4a8369f28e033ef773303.JPG  Left and Right Mounts before Powder Coating.


IMG_E1134.JPG.30ef1070777edd1a34dd1ac77643065c.JPG Left Valance Mount powder Coated installed

    The Front Flares were mocked on using Cleco Pins.



IMG_1091.JPG.ca3b51d79028dd5db0981d3faab5155f.JPG  Inside view of Left Flare


The Grill was disassembled for sand blasting and powder coating.

The Grille consists of 6-Horizonial grille blades, 4-Vertical mounts and 4-3mm x 8" Long Bolts.   So I took a lot of pics so I would not

forget where everything went.

    As the Grille is about 4 feet wide, it would not fit in my Powder Coating oven.    So I constructed 2' x 2' x 4'  box out of 3/4" plywood.

It was lined inside with Aluminum Foil to retain the heat.



IMG_E1122.JPG.0ee5eb3a1a4d93fe3538a41e2b6deda9.JPG A 2000watt Infared heat lamp provided the heat.

IMG_1123.JPG.bc781a4e7645078e69c690f0f1e326a2.JPG  Powder Coating the Grille parts.


IMG_1143.JPG.3bd9af4dfd5e8cf8e6a78fda8eb36712.JPG  The Grille was powder coated with Flat Black Powder then assembled.










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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

A Reinforcement was constructed for the Front Rocket Bunny Bumper.  It was made of 1" x 1/8" square tubing with 3/16" bumper brackets.

First, a template of the reinforcement  was made out of cardboard.



Bumper Brackets were made 3/16" Plate Steel and cut out with a 4 1/2 Angle Grinder.



Pics of both Front Bumper Brackets



Pic of Bumper Reinforcement Bar



Reinforcement Bar mounted.






Attempts to use Insulation Foam to attach the Fiberglass Bumper to the Reinforcement Bar failed.  The problem was the difficulty to

get the Foam evenly between the Bumper and Reinforcement.   Because the Corona Virus, the solution to this problem will have to wait

until more stores open up.

IMG_1173.JPG.7814cff21f7fb2157f699b54c059a12b.JPG   Unsuccessful for now!


I constructed Four Flat 16 Gauge plates of 16 gauge Sheetmetal to fasten the Front Flares to the Front Valance Panel.

2039014642_IMG_1191(1).JPG.b2dd1331200136ebb7a99043fea9e7b6.JPG   Note: The Plate is folded on the outside edge of the the Plate.  This Fold

greatly increases the strengthens the Plate.


A Right Angle Die Grinder and a Tight Fit Drill Attachment were used because of the tight space.



Inside Front Wheel Housing, pic of the Reinforcing Plates "sandwiching" both fiberglass parts together.



Outside View of the "sandwiched" parts



The Roof Rail Gutters were seam sealed with Fastline #FS2SL.   It is a self leveling sealer and made for car rain gutters.  Working Time is 10 minutes so you got to rush.   It can be painted in 30 minutes and fully cures in 2 hours.   It flows like water so don't forget to "dam" both ends of the gutter.



The next day, the sealer flowed so much that I had to apply a second coat.

450530717_IMG_E1213(1).JPG.23aa6b7799d9bab6906d5b8df9a87e28.JPG   If necessary, you can sand the sealer smooth.


The Front and Rear suspension were removed to prevent the parts from overspray even with masking.   The plastic curtains opened up

and work area was cleaned in preparation for car painting.



But, there is a lot of preparation(a whole lot of sanding and masking) before actual car painting.


IMG_1207 (1).JPG

Edited by toolman
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Hey Toolman, nice work  with the reinforcing brackets. I have the Rocket bunny front bumper and will most likely end up doing something similar to your setup, but will have to adjust it to fit into the front of the Ztrix "Subtle Z" fiberglass kit. A suggestion of using surfboard blank foam  which is more than readily available up country side in Haleiwa. It is very easily sanded and shaped. Great work and look forward to seeing more progress.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Nelsonian,  Thanks for the tip.   I will post my solution when it happens,


Here is a pic of the Right side Rain Gutter finally primed.

IMG_1233.JPG.05016bc40a0cdd629e0e46d5ff83d003.JPG  Came out real smooth.


I had constructed a frame to hold the Spray Booth Exhaust Flilters but got rid of it as it took up too much space.   So I came up with a much

more simplified method to the filters.    I  just screwed a dozen clothes pins to the garage door.

IMG_1222.JPG.7068d5e21159ffdb9cb0235a6543aad4.JPG  Inside view


887897729_IMG_1248(1).JPG.0ee9651e2f6bfe6798d17dc4cbe6f6cb.JPG  Simple and but Effective.


IMG_1223.JPG.99b151444dd4b80a9d17c9cf61c89297.JPG  Outside view of Exhaust Filters.


Now, Back of Body Work:   I utilized Black Primer in a spray can to locate Low Spots in the bodywork.



IMG_1246.JPG.66cae880e7607622ecfbdab43371674a.JPG  IMG_1256.JPG.aa281f61746cbd4a137c97e3254dc14f.JPG                                                                                   Only a Light Coat of Black Primer Spray is necessary,


Use Sanding Blocks( short and long)   Long one is for large areas (roof and hood).   Start sanding in a Diagonal Direction then sand over the cut

in Opposite Diagonal  Direction to create a "X" Pattern.   Using this method, the low areas will show up as dark spots.

1312031067_IMG_1232(1).JPG.c0438528f8e74b1e17131a8ed93bf4e2.JPG   Hood with the Low Spots covered with a thin layer of Body Filler.


To Restore the Body Lines on the Doors, Apply 3/4" Masking Tape with its Lower edge run the new tape top on the Body 

Line.   When you finish sanding along this edge, you end up with a nice straight body line.   The 240z body line have a sharp edge so

you cut the sharpness with the sanding block.

IMG_1251.JPG.3eebdec3c9b35bc6bc7bf854945522cf.JPG  creating a Body Line.


The Cowl Panel sprayed with Low Spot Finder,



IMG_1242.JPG.984cf04e5ed2a4dfa0b34247facf5f34.JPG  Cowl  Panel masked to prevent overspray.


IMG_1245.JPG.ee603ffce3847c5a2aafd08bd694b31a.JPG   Cowl Panel with Low Spots filled.


1505254351_IMG_1258(1).JPG.18d77a5183ff8c8eb835f61a63f07abf.JPG R/Quarter Panel and Door Sprayed.


1276098497_IMG_1259(1).JPG.eb21a694a75fbce16a7041e20d3cdcb7.JPG  Right Fender ready for more sanding.


This fixing low spots and spraying HD primer filler can go on for a couple of times.    The 240z thin Sheetmetal (.023") body lends itself

abundance of small dents.  


 As a lot of you are "stuck at home " during this Pandemic and can't work on your 240Z,  here is a solution:

 Hot Wheels  71 Datsun 240z Rocket Bunny car.



Hot Wheels has several versions of Datsun 240z -completely stock to Radical Race Cars.    Collect them or modify them.

I will modify mine and post my progress.


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  • 4 weeks later...

The Whole car was recoated with the Final Poly Primer then completely block sanded again.



After the Final Sanding, masking of the car was next.   As the car had no front windshield, door glass and rear hatch installed, there was nothing

to tape to as in regular masking.   So Back Masking was utilized.   Back Masking is masking from the rear or from the inside out.

To begin with, 3" Masking Tape was applied around the edges of the Front Windshield Opening(from the inside) so the sticky side of the 3"

tape protruded outward about 1".    Two or Three Vertical 3" Back Tape were added to provide support for the Masking Paper.

 IMG_1271.JPG.a46aeb4cc14a16c54e105b5bd97cc9f6.JPG Add  3"Horizontal stripes of tape on the 

Vertical Tapes to make them tight as possible to support the masking paper.

Masking Paper was added from the top edge of the Windshield to the bottom edge of the windshield.   Make the masking  paper a little larger.  Lay the masking paper to the tape on the windshield edges and the vertical tapes.   Don't press the tape and masking paper together yet.    Using a new razor blade to cut the excess paper allowing for 1/2" of sticky 1" tape exposed.



When you finish cutting the excess paper off, apply 3/4" masking tape to the 1/2" area.  So your masking paper will squeezed between the Back Masked

3"tape and the 3/4" masking tape and be really secure.



This view shows the Masked Widshield looks like from the inside.




The Door Widow and Rear Side Glass was also masked with Back Masking.



Since, the Rear Hatch was a large area to mask, a slightly different procedure of masking.   I used a Welders Tie Wire to provide more support

for the masking paper.



2133445490_IMG_1279(1).JPG.5c016af3353f76711868780dbc82b819.JPG    2039791963_IMG_1278(1).JPG.f9b2e99eea03d0a950476c49001f907f.JPGWelders Wire 


A piece of cardboard also added to give support when pressing the masking paper and tape together.  Otherwise, since the hatch area is closed

off at the back, you can't stick your hand under the masking paper to press the masking paper and tape together.

806897300_IMG_1282(1).JPG.11330da55738fe2eab51da5159f2b70d.JPG Note-The Hatch edges are Back Masked

as the Front Windshield.

The Engine Compartment was masked using the same as the Rear Hatch procedure.

951499167_IMG_1285(1).JPG.4dd71c168bdf7fcb0041cc992486ffb2.JPG  Used a X pattern with the Welders Wire in this case mainly because the availability of body holes.

  Now, I went about to mask the car for a TWO COLOR paint job.

2052926800_IMG_1290(1).JPG.5dde898eca41d9cb9df0dcb5ed0978f3.JPG  Note-Blue !/4" Pin Stripping tape was

 utilized to produce a sharper line than regular masking tape.

1840379455_IMG_1291(1).JPG.9c118af6b4c434c38bfe31e4dcd2b5fc.JPG   Red Top


IMG_1292.JPG.1fe0a01a9a31b07dc7f698cb2aa2e67a.JPG  White Bottom


IMG_1293.JPG.45c8a3f2c2104860e723a6b6f801d57a.JPG   Rear Hatch and Hood being painted.


Made a Paper Template for Racing Stripe.

IMG_1318.JPG.5dbd1b5d1e55b48f0ce1788ff4736a62.JPG  Flip Template over for the Opposite Side.


IMG_1312.JPG.30f80e6ac2efe88fb3e89f83dadea55b.JPG  Racing Stripe with Datsun Logo


IMG_1323.JPG.58760bd5c84c3d0ff4cbb1f84ed9b05a.JPG After Striping and Clear Coating


IMG_E1300.JPG.4ba6f2b6c805c4c62ab970f54124e394.JPG   Rear View


963045660_IMG_1324(1).JPG.8cd1faa64bdf56b79a2f0a6048d79bcc.JPG  Side View


Unfortunately, after I clearcoat the Z, my garage 7 1/2 HP air compressor broke down.   When I tried to start it the next morning, the air compressor

would not build pressure.   Lucky me, it did not happen when I was Clear Coating.   So any way, I took the  compressor pump apart.

NXVR0042.JPG.f14552dc736f2c26c1da44d6bd321d19.JPG  MPVO2312.JPG.438629ab343c608c4346298b6fdea40c.JPG


So, Come Monday, I will order the Master OverHaul Kit which has new piston rings, rod bearing and valve parts plus gaskets and various 

seals.   Then I can Clear Coat the Flares, Soiler and Front Panel.


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