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LED Headlight Bulbs, anyone tried them?

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I've got LED housings. 7 inch jeep ones, just pull the old housing out, put the new one in. You probably will have to cut out the rear to fit the plug through.

 Not sure on just bulbs. I had some for foglights on my daily and they would not be adequate for use as headlights. 

I did just buy some tailights that have a built in projector on the bulb with a powerful cree light that I should be testing out soon.

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  • Always Here
  • dmoralesbello
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  • LocationKey Biscayne, FL, USA

Here's an update on the headlight bucket extension mod that we started a while back but are only now in the process of installing.

A 3"extension was welded in and a "pocket" for the LED  ballast was incorporated into the back of the bucket.



After finishing off with black anticorrosive paint a 0.5" hole was drilled on the engine side of each bucket, fitted with a rubber grommet, the OEM wires were fed through and the LED ballast placed in its pocket and held with 3M double stick trim tape.





The Autopal headliamp with the LED light installed has the cooling fins protruding from the back plus the ballast but fits nicely into the modified extended bucket.



The remaining installation is SOP.post-49397-0-51142200-1449666349_thumb.jpgpost-49397-0-56544800-1449666364_thumb.jpg


The intensity, quality and focus of the light emanating from the LED bulbs is excellent and the final look is very close to stock.

Edited November 12, 2016 by dmoralesbello

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I first converted to HID bulbs and ballasts in Hella housings, but I was disgusted by the poor quality of the electronics.  The best of them only lasted a few months before blowing out.   I took a chance on some LED bulbs, and they've lasted since February of 2015. I bought the New Brights All-in-One LED Headlight"  off Amazon for around sixty bucks.  I did have to cut out the back of the headlight buckets to make space for the fans.  I sealed up the holes in the buckets with silicone sealant and a pair of tuna cans, then painted the whole thing black so it's inconspicuous.   After thirty months they are still working well, but they do flicker from time to time.  They are supposed to have a five year warranty, so I'll try that out and see if they'll honor their word.  The headlight switch that used to get very warm is now completely cool and I've stopped blowing fuses, so I'm very happy with the LEDs on that front.

The light throw on low beam is better than stock bulbs, is about the same as halogen, and isn't as good as HIDs.  However, they work 100% of the time and they don't make my car burn down, so to me that is a win!   On high beam the focus does not change like it does on HID or halogen.  An additional LED illuminates at a different focal distance, supposedly shining through the "high beam" areas of the lens.   It's better than just the low beams, but not as good as  having a dedicated, higher-powered filament.    One of those dedicated LED lenses like they make for Jeeps might work better, but I can't get over the looks of them.  I'll probably try a different set of bulbs soon and see if they have a better high beam now. 

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For LED's you need to replace the entire light assembly NOT just a bulb.  I have used this on one of my 240Z's and my Jaguar 3.8s and they work GREAT!


It is a little expensive but I think they are worth it.  They are very bright with a very even wide light beam and they use such a fraction of the AMPS a conventional headlight would use.  They also have a lifetime guarantee.  

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Yes I have. 

I wanted to use LED H4s but they were internally restricted to low beam OR high beam. My 78 280z doesn't turn the low off when high beam is selected so I did a two relay mod that corrected this. worked out great. The LED H4 bulbs came from superbrightLEDs and the headlights are from Summit, Hella Ecodes. They need aimed but I'm really happy with them. This is the drawing I came up with this morning after spending yesterday trying to understand the manual. I can add some  more info to the schematic if someone needs it. 


78 Z headlight mod.jpg

78 Z headlight mod2.jpg

78 Z headlight mod1.jpg

PS The SuperBrightLEDS fit in the unmodified headlight buckets, I'm not sure they will stay cool enough yet but they come with a lifetime warrenty so I'll let you know. I thought about cutting a hole in the back of the bucket, welding on a short section of 2" or 2 1/2" exhaust pipe and capping it (also welded) to add some additional cooling area like dmoralesbello did but smaller. Then undercoat it after installation. 

We'll see!

Edited by D9inger

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I also have a pair of the 7" VisionX lights. I already like them, and I know a lot of people that with their offroad lights that get beat pretty hard and they hold up.

They fit just like the sealed beams did without modifying anything.

The High beam pattern is like an offroad spot light, while the Low is like a good HID with a sharp cutoff. This means they can be adjusted properly without blinding oncoming traffic.

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I hope this makes since....


The basic of how it works is…


Stock wiring


12V from the battery is supplied to the fuse panel from the battery, there it is split left and right through two fuses, one for the left and one for the right. When you turn on the headlights 12V goes directly to the headlights from the headlight switch, it provides power to BOTH high and low beams.


The low beam ground is constant, when the headlights are selected on, the low beams will illuminate.


The  ground side of the high beam circuit is controlled by the high beam/low beam switch to the left of the steering wheel. When high beams are selected a ground is provided to complete the circuit to ADD the high beams. The low beams do not turn off when high beams are selected.


Now for my mod


What I did was added two relays that removed the full current/amperage through the headlight switch and high beam switch.  Now the headlight on/off switch applies 12V to both relays. The first (low beams) has a unswitched ground. When you turn on the headlights, the low beams come on. Left on my drawing. 


The second relay is controlled by the high beam/low beam switch. When low beam is selected the second relay is not energized and provides a “normally closed” path to power the low beams.  When high beams are selected the second relay (the right relay on my drawing) is energized and removes the ground from the low beams circuit and provides a ground for the high beam circuit.


The way I accomplished this is by finding the 12V hot (headlight switch on) to the driver’s side. Then I located the constant ground for the low beams and the switched ground for the high beams.


The 12V hot from the headlight switch to the driver’s side provides power to both relays. Relay one (on the left side of my drawing) is grounded so it is energized when the headlights are turned on. Relay 2 (right side)  is also powered but is missing the ground to complete the circuit and energize it. That ground is provided by the high beam switch. When that ground is provided the relay is energized and power is removed from the low beams and added to the high beams.


In the end the headlight switch now controls a relay, the high beam switch controls the other one, one relay provide power to the headlights, the other controls the power for low beams and for the high beams .

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