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jr_soliz2010

2jz Megasquirt help

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Hello everyone, I'm sure this has been brought up before but ive researched for the past few weeks and with several people throwing opinions at me,  i need some clarification.  I'm going bald stressing over this.  

I have a 75 280z 

2jzge rebuilt na-t.

First shop -" Go microsquirt". Their cost to wire up - $800 and supposedly 2 weeks. 4 weeks in,  never touched it.  

Second shop-"Go megasquirt assembled unit since its cheaper and we'll wire it up." $750. Bought the ems and they said it was the wrong one.  I called DIY and they said it was perfect just needs to be wired up. Shop said something about batch fire wouldnt work or something. 

3rd shop is my auto tech school-$free but they wouldnt touch the megasquirt v2. So i gave them my laptop amd told them to order the f**ken unit i need. They ordered the MS3x. Its beeb 2 weeks and my instructor hasnt touched my car or even given me a chance to start.  Personally i feel as if they don't know what to do.  I'm ready to do it myself.  

Is there a write up on how to wire this up. By now i regret not going plug n play since thats what its costing already. The diagram online looks simple and im ready to take a chance on trying it that way.  I do have the original engine harness but all jacked up.  All plugs are there though. So do i cut the pigtails off and splice into the labeled Megasquirt harness to their respected wires? Whats the easiest way to go about this? I have 3 ems in my possession and this was supposed to be "budget build".  This is the unit i have.  Any write ups or advice other than "buy pnp"? 

ms3x357-c_bl2-180x180.jpg

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Goodness.

1st shop is lame.

2nd shop is wrong. DIY is right. I have a MS2 running my 2jz on batch fire.

3rd I honestly don't know.

Well they do have plug and play units for the 2jzgte, the na group kind of gets left out since we have a distributor. Depending on what ignition setup you are going with will determine kind of what megasquirt you can choose assuming you want megasquirt to control ignition and you aren't going with a stand alone ignition control mechanism.

Megasquirt is a DIY kind of thing. If you aren't willing to DIY then it would be better to go with one of the bigger brand names as more run of the mill shops are familiar with installing those systems (by installing I mean ordering the kit and the wiring harness and plugging them in).

With that said, it is completely possible. Dexter and I both have 2jz NA-T's running off megasquirt, I think he is running off of MS1, I have MS2. 

Here is a really crummy video I made trying to go over it. 

The engine is a 7mgte, but I am using the exact same setup on the 2jz. I don't think I actually changed anything on the harness at all from that motor.

 

Frist things first.

If you are going to attempt this you need some wiring bits. Parts that are close to the engine, generally shouldn't be soldered according to many. I have some connections soldered that have been holding fine, but alas. That means investing in some tools to get you really proper reliable connections. The best would be to get like a weatherpack kit and wire everything fresh with new pins and complete lengths of wire. That is pricey, so you can go with generic crimps. Your connections should be solid so that they have little to no resistance and that you feel comfortable pulling on as if it was one length of wire. If you can pull your connection apart, either find a way that makes the connection more reliable (ratcheting crimper) or use another method (non insulated crimps with a long leverage crimper and heat shrink over the connection).

Once you can reliably make connections (I cannot stress this enough, one bad connection and you might be chasing shadows or worse fry your ecu), then look at the wiring diagram and sort it by what you actually have and what you plan to run. A simple word document like in the video is fine. Pin 1 = X color = X function = connects to x color on stock harness etc etc

Once you have your pinout go out and buy quality automotive wire of various colors, most likely 18-14 gauge, with maybe a couple in the 12-10 gauge for heavier power usage items (full copper stranded, not coated aluminum), wires that you plan on running near hot sources you should really consider getting SXL or GXL I believe. These wires have a higher heat insulation. Or plan ahead and route your harness away from hot sources or pickup heat proof shielding for them.

Now you have your map, your connection method that you fully trust, and your supplies. It is all about going down your list and making each connection. There are two schools of thought. Some say to make each wire exactly the length you want. Other say to leave a loop in case you need to pull the harness to move it out of the way of something down the road. Your choice, I did the loop, plus lots of disconnect points, makes pulling the engine a lot easier.

Once you get everything wired you want to find a base map and input all the base settings. Once you think you are close, double check all the wires or have someone else check them before you think of hooking up the power. Remember one wrong connection you can short something. 

From then on it is a matter of enabling test mode and testing all your connections to make sure they are functioning correctly. Once you have determined everything is working (fuel pump, injectors, spark outputs) then you can begin to crank and time the motor with the fuel pump disabled. Adjust the timing offset to match what is on the car. Once you have established you have proper timing, good fuel pressure, and oil pressure then start the motor. At that point you are in the realm of working out the base settings and tune.

 

Edited by seattlejester

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Before you bug someone else, make sure you look into getting them all the info they need. 

Injectors you are going to use, your ignition method, your sensors etc. 

Would be a real shame if you had to cut up a new harness.

Would be understandable as well if you wanted to forgo outside services, granted I've heard nothing but good things. 

I've seen some bad radio jobs, and we have probably seen our fair share of botched swap harnesses. Just take a step back or ask a friend to evaluate your wiring, see if they would be comfortable running it. If not, get to a point you feel real comfortable with. I don't proceed anymore until I can do a full tug, and afterwards I throw on the multimeter to check for a continuity drop as I twist the connection to make sure no break occurs.

Other than that a modern radio is probably just as complicated in some regards. Just keep track and make it easy for someone to double check your work. 

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6 hours ago, seattlejester said:

Before you bug someone else, make sure you look into getting them all the info they need. 

Injectors you are going to use, your ignition method, your sensors etc. 

Would be a real shame if you had to cut up a new harness.

Would be understandable as well if you wanted to forgo outside services, granted I've heard nothing but good things. 

I've seen some bad radio jobs, and we have probably seen our fair share of botched swap harnesses. Just take a step back or ask a friend to evaluate your wiring, see if they would be comfortable running it. If not, get to a point you feel real comfortable with. I don't proceed anymore until I can do a full tug, and afterwards I throw on the multimeter to check for a continuity drop as I twist the connection to make sure no break occurs.

Other than that a modern radio is probably just as complicated in some regards. Just keep track and make it easy for someone to double check your work. 

This. There are quite a few sensor/injector/coil options out there that can widely swing the harness cost. 

Side question for you though Seattlejester. If you're coming from a 7MGTE, why not use it's CPS in your 2JZ to get away from batch fire?

Edited by Geno750

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Really not much benefit to sequential if you don't need the advantage of the longer pulse duration you can get away with. I am running semi sequential or multi squirt so I am already kind of taking advantage of it as is. We had a whole long discussion on the semantics of it. Basically though the repeating theme was that there was little to no benefit in the power category. Only some efficiency down low to gain.

CPS sensor is really quite pricey. I had two to play with and they both had fairly discolored wires. I had to chop quite a bit before I could get some wire that wasn't all green and corroded.

CPS sensor also didn't play nice with my MS board, the signal it output was really low. I couldn't get it to read reliably until 400rpm with a drill. The car cranking I think maxed out at like 150-200rpm so the CPS wouldn't even recognize the starter trying to start. I did mess around with pots and such, but that was the best I could get it to go. 

Edited by seattlejester

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SO what do you have now a microsquirt, ms2 or ms3x I got lost with all the difference shops? I havent done any 2jz harness but its pretty much the same as well any ms3x but I could do it for you I did an ms3 pro which is a bit more on a lseries full sequential.  I will actually do a 2jz swap in one of my zeds over the winter so will add some more products to the line I am also working on another new EMS that I will be a dealer for in the next month.  You also did not mention which 2jzNA is it from they do come in full sequential I believe and distributor based Correct me if Iam wrong>?!

There are many options for you at this point keep in mind the toyota injectors are toyota specific as well other inputs and outputs in the engine. It really depends on what parts you have also ignition options are available many of them actually (stock wasted NA jz dizzy, sequential wasted full sequential ) then there's coils JZ, LS ,LS struck, yaris  ahh yes the joys of megasquirt. My best advice to you is set down goals,  see what parts/ecu you have and what your trying to do match the two and make a gameplan to attack. Secondly you want to do this right the first time I hate hacking an old harness and trying to repin/depin and remove unnecessary wires etc. Seatle gave some great advice get some wire or even better the 8ft flying lead harness for whichever ECU you have and make a new harness lay it out wire it. Also good idea to run new fuses / relays all that.

 

Good luck

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5 hours ago, softopz said:

SO what do you have now a microsquirt, ms2 or ms3x I got lost with all the difference shops? I havent done any 2jz harness but its pretty much the same as well any ms3x but I could do it for you I did an ms3 pro which is a bit more on a lseries full sequential.  I will actually do a 2jz swap in one of my zeds over the winter so will add some more products to the line I am also working on another new EMS that I will be a dealer for in the next month.  You also did not mention which 2jzNA is it from they do come in full sequential I believe and distributor based Correct me if Iam wrong>?!

There are many options for you at this point keep in mind the toyota injectors are toyota specific as well other inputs and outputs in the engine. It really depends on what parts you have also ignition options are available many of them actually (stock wasted NA jz dizzy, sequential wasted full sequential ) then there's coils JZ, LS ,LS struck, yaris  ahh yes the joys of megasquirt. My best advice to you is set down goals,  see what parts/ecu you have and what your trying to do match the two and make a gameplan to attack. Secondly you want to do this right the first time I hate hacking an old harness and trying to repin/depin and remove unnecessary wires etc. Seatle gave some great advice get some wire or even better the 8ft flying lead harness for whichever ECU you have and make a new harness lay it out wire it. Also good idea to run new fuses / relays all that.

 

Good luck

Well Said,

 

This is why I will be happy to spend my money on this guy!

 

Sadly I already made my own and went with Microtech..

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I think the later is300 2jz don't have distributors, early sc300 and gs300 I believe did. You can get a trigger wheel on the crank pretty easily and making a mount for the HES isn't too bad if you want to open up your choices for timing control.

The denso injectors are fairly interchangeable. The 2jzge rail and intake manifold will fit 7mgte or rx7 injectors with little to no modification. If you want to swap to bosch though now would be a good time to do so as injector conversion harnesses can be expensive if you have painstakenly wired in all the stock injector clips.

Coolant temp can definitely be piped into megasquirt.

TPS can be re-used, or you can run pretty much any throttle body with an appropriate range. I have a 7mgte, dexter has a 1uzfe, and many others are running the vh45de throttle bodies. I'm not sure about the knock sensor. I'd honestly really like to get mine up and running as a safety precaution. 

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9 hours ago, seattlejester said:

I think the later is300 2jz don't have distributors, early sc300 and gs300 I believe did. You can get a trigger wheel on the crank pretty easily and making a mount for the HES isn't too bad if you want to open up your choices for timing control.

The denso injectors are fairly interchangeable. The 2jzge rail and intake manifold will fit 7mgte or rx7 injectors with little to no modification. If you want to swap to bosch though now would be a good time to do so as injector conversion harnesses can be expensive if you have painstakenly wired in all the stock injector clips.

Coolant temp can definitely be piped into megasquirt.

TPS can be re-used, or you can run pretty much any throttle body with an appropriate range. I have a 7mgte, dexter has a 1uzfe, and many others are running the vh45de throttle bodies. I'm not sure about the knock sensor. I'd honestly really like to get mine up and running as a safety precaution. 

Yes I thought some 2jz had dizzys thats why I asked him which he has cause he only mentioned 2jz NA. Theres so many ways to tackle a harness and standalone setup especially since its Megasquirt. The *best" in my opinion is to see what you already have and work from there remember he is also a student on a budget> we all been there some of us may not be students but on a budget..... ( oh no I used the B word )

 

15 hours ago, Greeko said:

Well Said,

 

This is why I will be happy to spend my money on this guy!

 

Sadly I already made my own and went with Microtech..


Thanks BRO! I would still be happy to accept your money anytime or anyone's money for that matter I do not discriminate.

Edited by softopz

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