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datsunlover

Fixed the door slaming issue..

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....snipped....

The door has a little round cylinder with two 'bumps' on it, about 90* apart. The lower one (pointing towards the ground) hits first on the body latch, causing the cylinder to rotate and pushing the second 'bump' around/into the latch on the body. Seams to me that the past 30 years of closing the door had worn down the metal so much that the second 'bump' wasn't rolling into it's proper spot, as it was hitting the 'point' where the cutout starts. I simply ground back the little radius with a dremel and WOW! The doors close like a new car! I don't know if this is any help to anyone, but I thought it was worth posting anyway.. I'll try to get a pic to describe what I've done..

 

Hi datsunlover:

Just an interesting side note:

That first "bump" on the "latch" when new (at least on the 72 240-Z) - had a nylon sleeve on it (kind of a horse shoe shape). Over time, they either wear out or get brittle with age - crack and fall off.

 

At one point I attempted to find a plastics shop - that could reproduce the nylon sleeve ... but the cost of the molds needed for injection molding were just too high. In the process of attempting to remove that nylon sleeve from the one good latch I had, we managed to break the original sleeve.

 

After that nylon bumper falls off - then the metal to metal contact between the latch and the catch start to take effect. At any rate, your solution should work fine...

 

 

FWIW,

Carl B.

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Ok, so if you know what the door piece looks like (rotating cylinder with two bumps on it) you can figure out the first one hits the area marked in blue. This causes the cylinder to rotate, 'rolling' the second bump into the small radius, and latching the door closed.

 

The yellow line points to the spot where mine was hitting, and causing that 'clunk' sound. This point was actually smashed really bad from years of abuse, and took a small amount of grinding to fix the peand/mushroomed metal.

 

I then realized the root of the problem; The area marked in blue had been worn over the years and was not in the correct position anymore to allow full rotation of the door cylinder. (well, I guess the door piece could be slightly worn too.. seames to be stronger metal though..) So I used the dremel tool with a small grinding stone to grind back the area in red.. about 1/16" in the end. I just took a bit off at a time, blended it in to the original rad, and closed the door till I didn't hear/feel it hitting.

 

latch_body.jpg

 

I assume that the 3 or more body jobs this car had over the years didn't help, and a lot of folks probly tried to adjust the latch mechanism but did a poor job, or gave up and just slammed them. At one point I peared into the door while trying to close it and saw that even though it was hitting, you could still get the door to close.. it just took a lot of force, and would actually move the whole door UP as it scraped in to place, before finally latching. I feel like a fool for not realizing this sooner, but oh well.. live and learn. Hope this helps. :)

 

This writeup is right on the mark. I have a 240Z with NEW striker plates and had to slam the drivers door many times to get it to fully latch. Used this article to trim the area in Red which is absolutely right. Took striker completely off and hand mated it to the door cylinder. Found that absolutely the area in Red needs to be cut back to clear the second button on the door cylinder. Also discovered that the first tab on the striker plate is TOO TALL and must be trimmed down. NOW after trimming the area in Red and the first tab, check final fit to door cylinder with striker plate against the two button door cylinder. When it bottoms properly and fit is proper then reassemble to door jam and carefully adjust. Then the door should shut much more positively. Did all of this and drivers door shuts much much better. Will do some fine tuning today. Then will rework the passengers door striker plate.

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Just a quick something to add to this:

 

I just replaced my driver's door handle and fixed the lock mechanisim that had fallen off into the inside of the door. while I was in there, I spray-lubed everything I could possibly get at.

 

The door, lock and handles work GREAT now. Prior to lubing everything, I'd have to slam the thing 2 - 3 times to get it to shut, and the mechanisims were 'grunchy'. Try this before modding anything, it's an easy fix and the resulting smoothness of the handles and locks are really satisfying.

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I was able to adjust mine so you don't have to slam them too hard, but they're still hard to open once shut. (and the doors still don't shut flush with the 1/4 panel...MSA weatherstip is way way too thick.)

 

The 280z setup IMHO is the best one, with the GM-style striker bolt in the doorjamb. The only problem with the GM-style strikers is that once they wear you have to slam the doors hard just to get them to latch, and they still don't seat tight (so they rattle) My suburban is really bad in this matter, if you latch it on the primary latch you can't even get it to seat on the secondary.....

But, at least once they latch they stay latched.

I believe that once I get around to dissassembling and cleaning the latches and replacing the striker pins I'll be back in business. (I believe there is a rubber bumper inside the latch that usually wears away, the datman.co.uk site details on this...this will make doors hard to close also)

For now I have to carefully make sure the doors latch (if you slam them hard the latches won't catch and the door bounces back open! It's funny to see it when someone gets a ride and then slams the door shut upon getting out, only to be hit by the door!)

I also lock the doors once inside, since the stiker pins are worn the there is not enough tension on the handle and the latch can disengage on a bumpy road going fast if it's not locked.

(It's happened only once, and that passenger will NEVER ride with me again..I guess the right door opening on you in a hard left can do that to a passenger already white-knuckled....:P) Yes, datsun door hinges are very strong. The door stayed with the car, a quick right and door latched.

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I came across the Datsunlovers Door Latch recommendations. They are RIGHT ON THE MARK. I actually took off too much material on NEW latches in the area in RED. Then took off too much material off the top of the latch between the BLUE and RED areas. Carefully studied and welded back the material removed and in fact elongated the area between the two colored areas. Then very carefully formed the area in RED. Now the door latches much like it is supposed to. Just finished up today completely dissassembling the door, welding a cracking mounting area, and insulating the outer skin. Then lubed the front glass guide and reassembled the glass. Also installed NEW rubber/felt strips in the window channel removed from the door. Now the door shuts properly and the window tracks and moves rather easily up and down.

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Came across this thread while browsing the board and had to register so I could say thanks.

 

I put on new Precision 1-piece door seals about 18 months ago and have been slamming the driver door so hard that my outside rearview mirror kept moving and losing adjustment. Per the photo in this thread, I checked out the striker plate and saw a small burr at the top, front corner of the tab in the blue area. Took the dremel and removed the burr, lowered the top of the tab in the blue area by just a bit, and then pushed back the red area just a tad.

 

Door now closes almost like new ... considering 35 years of hinge wear, etc.

 

Thanks !

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Seems to still be working for me. After doing this mod, keeping the mechanisms lubed longer term was a bigger issue. For some reason WD-40 worked better than lithium grease *shrug*.

 

Funny this thread is STILL around! lol I was just looking at my car the other day and since I figured this out, it has worn a bit more, but I never did jet around to fixing the door pins (drivers side) which are not so good.. and the pass door is still perfect, so I'd say once it's working, just keep it lubed and it should last.

 

BTW,Trumpet, your sig pic looks a LOT like my Z when I first got it..same slotted rims and everything.. it's weird!

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has anybody tried welding to the worn area then filing it to shape?

 

Yeah, I just got done doing this and it worked! I turned my MIG way down and ran a couple passes to build up the area where the door first hits then ground the top and face flush. Works surprisingly well. I put more on than I expected to... probably added 3/16" on the driver side! Only added about 1/8" on the passenger side and it works but has a very slight rattle so I need to either add more or replace the weatherstripping.

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Yeah, I just got done doing this and it worked! I turned my MIG way down and ran a couple passes to build up the area where the door first hits then ground the top and face flush. Works surprisingly well. I put more on than I expected to... probably added 3/16" on the driver side! Only added about 1/8" on the passenger side and it works but has a very slight rattle so I need to either add more or replace the weatherstripping.
Good glad to hear it worked for you.. I think welding is the better alternative.

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After reading this post I took a look at my 260's latches - Ya, I have to slam the doors shut too. I cleaned them up and decided to to go the "OEM route" rather than welding additional metal onto the striker or cutting metal off the backside...

 

I found a piece of plastic tubing (I'm a plumber - think 3/8" water tubing, not soft plastic or rubber) and trimmed it to fit over the oblong knob on the door latch that first hits the striker plate on the body. (to replace the nylon piece that's on it from the factory - referred to above) With the latch still on (in) the door, the knob faces down when the door is open and rolls back inside when you press it to the "door closed" position but it's still not hard to get the plastic piece on it. Just make sure it's the proper length and fits securely to both sides of the knob so it stays in place.

 

(The additional "width" of the oblong knob with a nylon or plastic covering causes the "latching knob" to roll properly into the notch on the striker plate. Without it, the latching knob hits the back side of that notch and causes the problem most of us have... That's why grinding down the back of the striker plate works.)

 

Anyway, It worked! And it's so simple. And EASY to re-do if this one rots, cracks, falls off, or whatever. Both doors close and latch securely with minimal effort and have stopped "popping open a notch" when I hit a bump.

 

Edit: Sorry - for those not used to working with pipe or tubing: Cut 1/4" or so off the end of the tubing (about the same width as the knob) then slice the side lengthwise so it's NOT a complete circle anymore. Now it'll go over the knob (and it's already curved...), just make sure it's the right length to fit securely...

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I did follow this thread to help closing the doors nicely. It helps a bit but my definitive fix was to replace the weatherstripping with some modern ones I pulled from a donor car from a junkyard. I looked for something either straight or with one 90° bend.

 

They usually are bigger unloaded and smaller when clamped due to their hollow profile.

Left one is stock, right one is modern stuff (moreover it clamps instead of being glued)

p1110010.jpg

 

It works now like a charm ;)

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