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TC rod pivot relocation / Bad Dog subframe connectors / Slotted Crossmember


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#101 74_5.0L_Z

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Posted 28 November 2007 - 04:25 PM

Jon,

Your weld on bracket will make the connection plenty strong enough. However, I think you may still have trouble with your tire hitting the T/C rod when the wheel is fully turned.

Here is an image of my set-up and a drawing of the bracket.

Posted Image

Posted Image

The dog leg in the bracket serves two purposes: First, it moves the T/C rod back away from the tire. Second, it aligns the force from the T/C rod with the rear most bolt on the control arm. This minimizes the bending moment seen by the dog leg of the bracket.

The bracket is secured using 7/16" grade 8 hardware. The clevis is from QA1 (3/4-16 with 3/8" slot and 1/2" hole). I reamed the holes in the control arm and ball joint to match the holes in the bracket and get a close tolerance fit with the fasteners.

The tube is 1 1/8" x 0.058 4130 with tube adapters from "ChassisShop" TIG welded in the ends.

Dan

#102 JMortensen

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Posted 28 November 2007 - 04:47 PM

Well I think I'm going to take your previous advice and put another tab on the bracket and have it go over and bolt to the outer rear hole for the ball joint as well. Cary's got me convinced it's going to fold up like a piece of paper the first time I hit the brakes. :D

I figure if the tabs are roughly the same top and bottom and the top one is welded to the existing bracket that should work. I checked for clearance and didn't see any problems with the lower tab. I suppose I ought to check again before adding the upper tab.

I realize there may be some issues with tire clearance, but I'm moving to a more positive offset on the wheels and using a smaller diameter turnbuckle than I had before, so I think I'll squeak in there, if not I'll put some sort of steering limiter in there like Terry Oxandale has.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#103 blueovalz

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Posted 28 November 2007 - 05:38 PM

That double/double shear ought to hold up to anything now!

#104 WizardBlack

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Posted 27 August 2008 - 07:23 PM

Any updates? How's the final design look?

1977 280Z

- RB25DET swap and Q45 rear end swap in progress (Delayed!)

- Frame off resto in progress!


#105 JMortensen

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Posted 27 August 2008 - 09:07 PM

Any updates? How's the final design look?

Nothing new to update here. I haven't been working on the car in about 4 months, and this was not what I was working on when I stopped. I'm getting back out there to start some new rear control arms soon. Got some parts coming and then I can tear into it. Should be fun.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#106 AK-Z

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Posted 17 September 2008 - 06:12 PM

Question:

How hard is it to remove the TC mount off of the original rails?

I need to replace my rails with 2.5" square tubing and I don't want to spend the time fabbing new ones.
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#107 JMortensen

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Posted 17 September 2008 - 09:19 PM

It's a real bitch. They're spot welded all over the freakin place and the TC buckets are much thicker than the rails. If you're cutting out the old frame rails you might try to get at the spot welds from inside. Just hack up the frame rail to get access.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#108 AK-Z

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Posted 17 September 2008 - 09:57 PM

Yeah thats was what I was thinking of doing. Either that or fab one up. I'm so close to having a straight frame, so I think do the latter, instead of wasting my time :P
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#109 JMortensen

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Posted 29 October 2008 - 11:19 AM

Your weld on bracket will make the connection plenty strong enough. However, I think you may still have trouble with your tire hitting the T/C rod when the wheel is fully turned.

I should have listened... When I went to install this with the strut in place I found that the bolts that hold the strut to the steer knuckle are hitting the bracket that I welded together. I'm going to have to redesign the bracket and lose the TC rod's direct angle to the ball joint. What's one more do-over?

I'm going to see if your bracket clears my sway bar bracket that is welded to the top of the control arm. Not sure if it will, it looks close from the pictures.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#110 ZT-R

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 03:00 PM

Hey, i am trying to finish up my front tube chassis. Currently i am at the TC buckets. my setup is almost exactly like yours. i have 2.5inch frame horns and have done what 74 5.0 and mortenson have done with the buckets, 2x4 tube and have slotted them as much as possible without the rod end hitting the tube itself. My question i guess is it seems that even with the tc rod mount in its lowest position it still will be slightly higher than the inner lower control rod bolt. Auto X probably isnt in this cars future but will this have a big affect or should i take a peace of 3/8 plate and weld that to the top of the box which would lower the tc bucket some.

#111 74_5.0L_Z

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 04:18 PM

Having the rear pivot of the T/C rod slightly above the inner pivot of the lower control arm is a good thing. It provides a small amount of increased anti-dive (assuming the outer ball joint is lower than the inner pivot), and a little bit of dynamic caster gain during braking. Just be sure that the inner pivot on the lower control arm is a spherical bearing, or you will get some binding.

The inner pivot of my lower control arm has been raised my 3/4", and the rear pivot point of the T/C rod has been raised by the same amount. I have been toying with the idea of raising the rear pivot point a little bit.

#112 proxlamus©

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 07:50 AM

boo and hiss.. a lot of the pics on this thread pop up as "posted image" .. but no image!
Currently on a rotisserie for a full restoration - L28 with 9mm rods, 88mm Ross pistons (3.0L), 8.5:1 CR, Schneider Stage II cam, Holset HY35W, Megasquirt, Suzuki GSXR ITB's and home made intake plenum, Z32 transmission, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, ACT stage II clutch and pressure plate, coil-overs, vented 4x4 front brakes, 240sx rear brakes, Corbeau FX1 Pro seat, (soon to be half cage) and still debating the paint.. hurm

#113 JMortensen

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 09:31 AM

I reposted all of the important ones on p5. If you want something else, just ask.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#114 Wout van Aken

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Posted 25 July 2010 - 11:55 AM

Hi i customized my rod points too, about 1 inch up and 1 inch to outsite too lower the car and put the wheels outsite.
See for mor pics the following link; http://picasaweb.goo...tieWoutVanAken#
Sorry, i don't know to place pics here.

#115 CrazyZ

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 01:15 PM

i know its kinda late, but any chance of those pics coming back up again?


1974 260Z Restoration Project ... STARTING!

#116 JMortensen

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Posted 08 March 2014 - 01:55 PM

What do you want to see?


Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#117 CrazyZ

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Posted 24 March 2014 - 07:32 AM

The TC reinforcement section, from point to point.

 

My chassis is up to that point in time and I want to make sure I get all the correct welding done right the first time.

 

Thanks!

 

What do you want to see?


1974 260Z Restoration Project ... STARTING!

#118 JMortensen

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Posted 24 March 2014 - 11:19 AM

I cut all the stock stuff off and made my own TC brackets, so it might not be very helpful, but here are a few pictures.

Attached Files


Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com





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