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So you want to swap a ROTARY into your Z! (how-to)


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#21 Z-Dreamer

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 10:01 PM

Alex, so what type of "sewing machine oil" are you going to run in that "thing"? :lol:

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#22 Gollum

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 03:26 PM

Whoa, I saw the title of this thread and thought it must have been something someone dug up from the archives, but NO! Aux is working on the car again! YAHOO!

I really want to see this thing in person once it's on the road. Go aux, we're cheering for ya.

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#23 a6t8vw

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 12:17 AM

Alex, so what type of "sewing machine oil" are you going to run in that "thing"? :lol:

Mark


Ive had the best luck with AMSOIL burns VERY clean, no residue or black icky like other oils like maxima, bel ray, spectro etc

#24 auxilary

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Posted 09 October 2006 - 04:43 PM

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plumbing getting done
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#25 jdizzy204

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Posted 09 October 2006 - 04:52 PM

SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:shock:

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#26 Mr.INSANE

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Posted 15 October 2006 - 03:22 PM

Im still confused by the oil system in it

So theres no way to get a more stock system i dont want to do the oil in the gas becuase i could forget or something

#27 rbs30

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Posted 15 October 2006 - 04:12 PM

I had a jc cosmo eng in my rx3 and i just had a series 4/5 (fc) 13bt oil metering pump on it...never had a problem

#28 Dan Juday

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Posted 15 October 2006 - 04:48 PM

Good to see you're back at work on the project Alex. I was afraid it was going to die an unfinished car.

Don't take any crap from Mark. He can spout off when he posts pics of his Zs' progress. ;)

#29 auxilary

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Posted 15 October 2006 - 05:32 PM

Mark has a Z?
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#30 Owen

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Posted 15 October 2006 - 05:38 PM

Im still confused by the oil system in it

So theres no way to get a more stock system i dont want to do the oil in the gas becuase i could forget or something


If you use an S4 oil metering pump (oil) which is mechanical you should be ok. The S5 is controlled by the ecu. But if you use a GSLSE front cover, you need the MOP specific to it, even tho it's 13B. So no using an S4 MOP. Those are my findings.
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#31 rbs30

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Posted 15 October 2006 - 07:34 PM

You can DEFINATLY use a 12at (old cosmo) front timing cover on the front of a jc cosmo 13bt it also has the turbo oil drain built in and also has a mechanical metering pump..

#32 Mr.INSANE

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Posted 15 October 2006 - 08:45 PM

Would This be good for applications pushing upwards of 350 Hp

Im surprised there isnt a Standalone Ecu that has this built in yet

#33 Owen

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Posted 15 October 2006 - 10:23 PM

You can DEFINATLY use a 12at (old cosmo) front timing cover on the front of a jc cosmo 13bt it also has the turbo oil drain built in and also has a mechanical metering pump..


I don't think we have the 12ATs here, but that's good to know. So this front cover has old style mounting (4 holes for crossmember) AND fits on 13BT blocks?
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#34 Owen

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Posted 15 October 2006 - 10:25 PM

Would This be good for applications pushing upwards of 350 Hp

Im surprised there isnt a Standalone Ecu that has this built in yet


Are you talking about the MOP or the RCE? I don't know if stand alones control the MOP, most people just premix. If you're THAT forgetful, get a white mailing address label and a permant marker and stick it to the inside of your gas door. The write, "DON'T FORGET TO PREMIX" :-)
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#35 rbs30

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 03:33 AM

yeah the 12at was only brought out in japan..a fair few get imported here to aus though.. however they are starting to get scarce now..yes they have the 4 bolts on the front for the engine mounts and yes they are good hp as my rx3 made 490rwhp with a ta45

#36 auxilary

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 07:15 AM

I think Haltech controls MOP functions, but don't quote me on that. If it does, it's about 1600 for the unit, so it's way out of my price range
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#37 auxilary

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 07:16 AM

Posted Image

There. Intercooler mounted and plumbed up. The BOV mount pipe section was drying after paint, so it's not in the picture (the gap in the piping)
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#38 Sparks280zt

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 04:43 PM

you might not want to mount your air filter right on the compressor housing like that. Garret did the same on his turbo and the heat got to the filter, caused it to melt and a piece was sucked into the turbo and blew the turbo and his motor.
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#39 auxilary

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Posted 16 October 2006 - 05:41 PM

hm. good thinking. i'll run it under
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#40 Hugh

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Posted 20 October 2006 - 03:29 PM

Rotaries with solid engine mounts are much smoother than typical piston engines on solid mounts. The rotating motion of the engine just doesn't send the horrible teeth rattling shake at idle.

I have several friends who daily drive solid mounted rotaries, and they don't seem to mind too much. I've driven a couple and they were not so bad.




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