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Homemade headers installed on the 383


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#1 blueovalz

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 03:14 PM

The jig I built to fabricate these headers out of the car worked right-on. The headers went in (very tight, so that part was not easy, nor was it expected to be) fine, and surprisingly, all clearances were exactly as was on the jig.
The driver's side header
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Passenger side header
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Posted Image

#2 Corzette

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 03:32 PM

The jig I built to fabricate these headers out of the car worked right-on. The headers went in (very tight, so that part was not easy, nor was it expected to be) fine, and surprisingly, all clearances were exactly as was on the jig.
The driver's side header
Posted Image

Passenger side header
Posted Image

Posted Image


Very nice TErry, is there anything you dont do yourself?:-)

Terry
http://www.picturetrail.com/corzette 10.97 @ 122.78 150 SHOT SBC 357 AFR190s HR RETROFIT
1973 240Z V8 SBC 1975 280Z V8 BBC 1971 Hakosuka 2001 C5 Corvette Convertible 13.06 at 106.38 with intake bolt ons

#3 rudypoochris

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 03:33 PM

That looks great!

1972 240z - Ford 302... Barely Running


#4 tfreer85

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 03:34 PM

Any pictures of the jig and build stage? Those look awesome!!! Also how are you doing the steering column? Am I just not seeing it htere?

Tyson
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#5 Six_Shooter

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 04:03 PM

Did you just not set the date or are these pics 4 years old?

Looks like there's lots of clearance for the steering shaft to pass the lower part of the driver side header.
Z: 152391 Project Thread
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#6 blueovalz

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 04:22 PM

I'm too lazy to reset the date on the camera after replacing the battery, but you're not the only one to bring that up. I guess it's time update it.

The jig was two 2x4s bolted to the crossmember, and to the rear plate as the engine sat on the engine stand. I used some thinwall conduit as the steering rod on the jig. On the below photo, you barely see the conduit angled up as it goes rearward over the top of the 2x4.

Posted Image

Posted Image

#7 Evan Purple240zt

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 04:58 PM

Killer fit man, you should be proud.

I am finishing my downpipe right now, I can't IMAGINE doing headers!!

Evan
1995 240sx....
1972 240z RIP

#8 Careless

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 05:01 PM

amazing, thanks for sharing. :D
Posted Image

Raff.
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#9 Six_Shooter

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 05:39 PM

I like the jig, very creative.
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My rear view mirror doesn't have a zoom feature.

#10 wrenchtech

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 07:02 PM

I'm going to try to build up my first exhaust system (from the header back). I am going to use mandrel bends. Looking at your work I am wondering how to keep the sections square as I cut them to size. I want to cut several sections out of U and J bends that I am buying to get !5, 22.5, 30 and 45 degree bend sections. Thanks. -- Matt
See my 280YZ Dream Car Here

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#11 Evan Purple240zt

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 07:05 PM

Matt, I have had good luck putting a hose clamp around the pipe and then tracing it with a sharpie. I think I got that from Austin Hoke if memory serves.
1995 240sx....
1972 240z RIP

#12 Six_Shooter

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 07:08 PM

I have used hose clamps clamped onto the primary tubes, to be a guide for a line or saw blade.
I have also used a large tube cutter where I could, to get a square cut.

Even if you have a ragged or not so square cut, you can use a belt sander (preferably a vertical) to square up the cut, before fitting it to the next piece.
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#13 heavy85

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 07:24 PM

Is that MIG or TIG?

Thanks
Cameron

#14 Six_Shooter

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 07:55 PM

Looks like TIG to me.

BOZ, do you have any pics of other views, I just realized they are all from above the "frame rails". I'd be interested to see how the primaries below the frame rail are routed and merge into the collectors.
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#15 wrenchtech

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Posted 03 February 2008 - 08:37 PM

Matt, I have had good luck putting a hose clamp around the pipe and then tracing it with a sharpie. I think I got that from Austin Hoke if memory serves.


What a great idea! Now I remember that pipe fitters use a flexible metal belt to do the same thing, but I have only seen them use it on straight sections of large flue pipes. Thanks -- Matt
See my 280YZ Dream Car Here

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#16 blueovalz

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 04:57 AM

To add to the "hose clamp" discussion, I also used hose clamps to hold the various bends together after cutting them. If tightened well, I could hold 3 separate joints together using hose clamps placed directly over the tubing joints. The larger the bend radius, the better this worked. The short-radius bends caused a little problem with this (e.g up next to the flange stubs), but still held the tubes together. This way I was able to have all four primary tubes adjustable as I built the header. The use of the clamps then allowed me to tweak, correct, rotate, and shift the tubes around a small amount to perfect the close fit.

Then I drilled two 1/4" holes in the hose clamps and used that hole as a "port" for tacking the tube sections together. Once the tacking was done, I removed the clamp and TIG'd the rest of the weld.

Posted Image

#17 katman

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 01:29 PM

Having built L6 headers myself all I can say is great job!

#18 Evan Purple240zt

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 02:04 PM

To add to the "hose clamp" discussion, I also used hose clamps to hold the various bends together after cutting them. If tightened well, I could hold 3 separate joints together using hose clamps placed directly over the tubing joints. The larger the bend radius, the better this worked. The short-radius bends caused a little problem with this (e.g up next to the flange stubs), but still held the tubes together. This way I was able to have all four primary tubes adjustable as I built the header. The use of the clamps then allowed me to tweak, correct, rotate, and shift the tubes around a small amount to perfect the close fit.

Then I drilled two 1/4" holes in the hose clamps and used that hole as a "port" for tacking the tube sections together. Once the tacking was done, I removed the clamp and TIG'd the rest of the weld.

Posted Image



Terry, thats exactly how I did my downpipe. I held it together with hose clamps. It worked pretty well, but I ended up with too much weight so the damn thing kept falling apart! lol.

Excellent idea on the hole for tack welding though!

Evan
1995 240sx....
1972 240z RIP

#19 Six_Shooter

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 03:26 PM

I had one hose clamp, that I have no idea where it came from, that was actually two hose clamps with a short piece of metal attached between, that I would use to hold the tubes together. I've been contemplating making some out of different sized hose clamps to hold an entire primary (or 6) together, before any tacking.

BOZ; did you get some wide hose clamps? The ones I can find are pretty narrow and don't allow for drilling a hole like that, tried it, only worked marginally.
Z: 152391 Project Thread
Typhony: Project Thread

My rear view mirror doesn't have a zoom feature.

#20 blueovalz

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 04:42 PM

I had one hose clamp, that I have no idea where it came from, that was actually two hose clamps with a short piece of metal attached between, that I would use to hold the tubes together. I've been contemplating making some out of different sized hose clamps to hold an entire primary (or 6) together, before any tacking.

BOZ; did you get some wide hose clamps? The ones I can find are pretty narrow and don't allow for drilling a hole like that, tried it, only worked marginally.


The ones I used were 1/2" wide. They were old, so I don't know if its just because they are old, or that the new ones are more narrow.




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