Blown77Z Posted September 24, 2010 Author Share Posted September 24, 2010 UPDATE: Body work 2.0 complete. Wow, I'm REALLY tired of doing bodywork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 The last pieces have been primered, woot ! I have my base coat (color) and clear now. The paint will be Chrome Silver (paint code KY0) from the 03-09 Nissan 350z. Should look GOOD Can't wait ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z2go Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 Keep up the good work. I ran into similar problems with my MSA type III bumper as you are having. Are the mounting flanges (the ones that rest on the bottom of the headlight bucket) the same on either side? If so, is the driver side headlight bucket warped at all on the bottom? Those bumpers are a pain because there are so many factors that can lead to misalignment, especially on a 30-40 year old car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 Keep up the good work. I ran into similar problems with my MSA type III bumper as you are having. Are the mounting flanges (the ones that rest on the bottom of the headlight bucket) the same on either side? If so, is the driver side headlight bucket warped at all on the bottom? Those bumpers are a pain because there are so many factors that can lead to misalignment, especially on a 30-40 year old car. I'm not sure why the bumper is like that. Maybe the suspension sits higher on the driver's side? IDK ! I'll be tackling the issue soon though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 My type III was like that as well. I ended up just shaving the mounting points and was able to "snug" it up to the correct location. I would post some pics but I just sold my whole type 3 kit to get "go fast" parts for my baby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 UPDATE: We have COLOR ! This past weekend I was able to spray the color on the front end. The paint code is KY0 for those interested. Basically the entire front end (AKA the jigsaw puzzle) was sprayed first and were used as my test pieces, including the hood, bumper, fenders, headlight buckets, inspection lids and cowl. 2 coats of base (color) were used, the clear coat will be added after the pieces have been washed using water w/ liquid dawn detergent and applied with a super fine scotch pad. Now on to pic of one of my pieces that worries me. Here you see some fuzzy paint crap that appeared on/in the paint as I sprayed the piece It looks like some paint didn't atomize in time before it hit the surface? There are other smaller spots on other pieces with the same crap. The pieces were wiped down with a wax/grease remover and tack cloth prior to spraying, so the piece was NOT dirty. Anyone got a clue what it is and if I can remove it with 1500+ sandpaper?????? That really put a damper on my day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyc Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 (edited) i've painted a decent number of pieces...and i always apply the base...let it flash, then tack it and apply clear...never had any issues. is that the clear coat? it looks like spray patter is too narrow and held too far away. i would also suggest about a 50% overlap with each pass. Edited October 18, 2010 by bobbyc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 i've painted a decent number of pieces...and i always apply the base...let it flash, then tack it and apply clear...never had any issues. is that the clear coat? it looks like spray patter is too narrow and held too far away. i would also suggest about a 50% overlap with each pass. There is no clear coat on it yet. I'm following my painter's advice on how to apply the paint/clear coat he sold me. The paint spray pattern is set at about 80-85% of max width on my gun. I've been holding the gun 12-18 inches away when spraying and I've been using a 50% or so spray overlap when coating. How does the paint look in terms of a good coating pattern? I don't really know how it's suppose to look before the clear coat since this is my first time painting Any advice is greatly appreciated ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meph Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 looks like it may have been laid on a little too heavy, or excessively. When I started painting DIY in my garage I found that I always had the urge to use all the paint in my gun, or cover the car heavy enough on the first few passes to make it a solid colour. I find now that its best to follow the rules and apply a medium-light coat with 50% overlap, and if there was still paint in the gun when the coat was done to just put it away, i think paint often has a pot life of a couple hours, so save it for the next coat in 15 minutes. I think with a base+clear system, you dont need a heavy coat of base paint, just enough to give you full coverage & you can lay down a heavier clear to protect it. The wet sand and buff. Can anyone confirm this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 The purpose of using a clearcoat was to reduce the amount of basecoat used. Basecoat (the colour/pigments) are extremely expensive when compared to the clearcoat. You are generally using enough basecoat to "hide" the primer. Applying too much just wastes paint, and if it is still wet, the extra coats can "mottle" the paint (make it look blotchy and not uniform in colour). Being too far away or over atomizing the paint "dries" it out, and it can actually be dry before it even gets to the car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin.pk Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Good color choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the input guys ! Being too far away or over atomizing the paint "dries" it out, and it can actually be dry before it even gets to the car! I think that is what happened now I think about it. I can run my fingers over the little bumps and they fall off the paint Now, how do I get rid of the little bumpy things? Wet sand until they disappear or wetsand the paint down and re-apply the base? Other than my hiccup, how does the rest of the paint job look? Edited October 18, 2010 by Blown77Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 I just called my paint supplier / painter and he told me I can use 600+ and wet sand them down until they are gone and then check to see if I have to re-apply the base or not. I just rolled the car into the sunlight to see how the paint looks outside and wow it looks good IMO ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goodoldjam Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 It's looking really good, to bad it was the cowl that turned out a little wonky. That's the one piece I figure I'm going to blow through if I'm not careful. Someone correct me on this, I thought that the clear needed to be applied fairly soon after the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyc Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 (edited) i would sand and then mist the piece with a light coat of base...sanding can cause problems with the appearance of metallics. when base is laid it should appear smooth, it should also be flat in color..no shine at all. . you can easily tell when metallics appear blotchy and uneven, that is the mottling mentioned above. just pull the gun back and give it a couple passes with a light mist. this will give the metallic a uniform appearance. Edited October 19, 2010 by bobbyc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 (edited) Did you spray a guidecoat and then block sand the car before laying down the final color? It just seems like a number of low spots and body filler transitions are showing up in the highlights from the camera flash. Edited October 20, 2010 by blue72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 Did you spray a guidecoat and then block sand the car before laying down the final color? It just seems like a number of low spots and body filler transitions are showing up in the highlights from the camera flash. I'm in the process of fixing the low spots/body work areas again. I could see them clear as day once the color was sprayed Yes, block sanding is a must for me and anyone doing bodywork however, I know the final product will NOT be perfect or show car quality. I've already accepted that I will have some areas that aren't perfect, but to me it will be a great success and learning experience for sure !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palosfv3 Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Doing body and paint work for the first time can be challenging. Trying to get the correct answers to problems confusing. Your base coat issues appear to be related to mixing and application of the materials. To help several questions need to be answered . What type of spray gun andwhat size compressor are you using ? What paint brand are you using and are you using all their recommended products ? Are you measuring out your base and stabilizer/reducer or bartending it ? Please review this link it should get you answers that will be helpful. It doesn't matter what brand your using the problems result from the same issues http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/s/trouble/PDSG_Home.html I would recommend a little more practice with your base before attempting to spray the panels again. Paint and clear isnt cheap . Also, you really should spray the entire car at one time ,especially with silver, for best color uniformity. Your best bet for success will be to check with your paint vendor and see if the base can be recoated. Some manufacturers basecoats may lift if not recoated within specific time windows. Better to be safe than have a bigger problem. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelsonian Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 I just called my paint supplier / painter and he told me I can use 600+ and wet sand them down until they are gone and then check to see if I have to re-apply the base or not. I just rolled the car into the sunlight to see how the paint looks outside and wow it looks good IMO ! Well now thats just great. Just when I thought I had my color choices narrowed down to Honda s2000 silver, Mercedes 744 briliant silver and Porsche silver you have to go and remind me of this chrome silver. Seriously though it looks great and in reality I now have another color to choose from. It's funny how you don't think twice about colors until you are ready to apply paint, then it seems to get complicated, at least for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted October 21, 2010 Author Share Posted October 21, 2010 Doing body and paint work for the first time can be challenging. Trying to get the correct answers to problems confusing. Your base coat issues appear to be related to mixing and application of the materials. To help several questions need to be answered . What type of spray gun andwhat size compressor are you using ? What paint brand are you using and are you using all their recommended products ? Are you measuring out your base and stabilizer/reducer or bartending it ? Please review this link it should get you answers that will be helpful. It doesn't matter what brand your using the problems result from the same issues http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/s/trouble/PDSG_Home.html I would recommend a little more practice with your base before attempting to spray the panels again. Paint and clear isnt cheap . Also, you really should spray the entire car at one time ,especially with silver, for best color uniformity. Your best bet for success will be to check with your paint vendor and see if the base can be recoated. Some manufacturers basecoats may lift if not recoated within specific time windows. Better to be safe than have a bigger problem. Good Luck Good advice I'm leaning more towards material application since this is my first paint job. I'm using the tcpglobal HVLP spray gun kit. Base coat tip size is 1.4 on my gun. My compressor size is more than enough CH 3.2hp 60g compressor. Air pressure is set to 29psi at the inlet (10psi at tip). My materials are Limco paint and transtar primers. ALL materials are compatible and bought from same supplier. All materials; base coat, hardener, reducer are measured with proper equipment My paint supplier told me I can recoat the base with no problem after I wetsand it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.