Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

460ZGT Project Build


  • Please log in to reply
98 replies to this topic

#1 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 24 January 2011 - 07:20 PM

This here's a story 'bout a man with a Z (and a Mustang GT).... Ok, so enough hillbilly songs, I've pulled down my perfectly good running driving 78Z and started putting in the 1996 2 cam Mustang 4.6L V8. It's paired up to the T45 5sp tranny. Pics so far are with the engine sitting in the engine bay, not yet mounted. Looks promising though. As an FYI, I couldn't find any bolt holes I really felt good about picking up by, so the rope/ tow strap around the engine worked great! ( I recently dropped a 302/C6 tranny combo because a grade 8 (flawed?) bolt sheared in half, dropping the assy from 4 ft to the ground. Ouch.) As I go through making motor mounts etc, I'll post as many pictures/ dimensions as I can.


Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image


th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#2 richracing

richracing

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 283 posts
  • LocationAugusta, GA

Posted 25 January 2011 - 04:41 AM

glad to see you finally started this thread lol, good luck with the rest of the build.

#3 Inferno 08

Inferno 08

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 112 posts
  • LocationRiga, MI / Michigan State University

Posted 25 January 2011 - 03:21 PM

glad to see you finally started this thread lol, good luck with the rest of the build.


+1, I'm looking forward to seeing how this comes out.

#4 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 01 March 2011 - 07:05 PM

FYI, the whole straps around the engine works great for picking it up, just make sure you don't put a strap over the starter, I broke off the bendix engager unit on mine...so now I need a new starter :angry: Working on engine mounts, I'll post some pictures as soon as I get them going. It looks like with the engine sitting against the front crossmember, that I have at least an inch between the TB and the hood, so I'll probably space up my engine 0.5"-0.75" from where it's sitting now. I'm going to use what I can from the stock front clip, as the deep part of the oil pan is inline with the engine mounts, so if I make a custom one, it's got to be one with a big offset etc, etc. I'll probably see if I can use the original for now, and take good notes, maybe build up a new one later :rolleyes: ....maybe

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#5 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 13 March 2011 - 06:06 PM

ENGINE'S IN!!! I still have to make my tranny mount, but the engine is sitting on it's tacked together mount with a healthy 1/4" between the throttle body and the hood. Nothing like cutting it a little close. The stock Ford engine mount will work ok, it completely misses the steering, the only thing I have to figure out is how far back I can pull the engine and still get the pass. exhaust pipe through. Of course nothing's welded up here, I didn't take pictures of the tacked up stage yet, I'll take better pics once it's out, welded up and painted. It's got 3/16" angle about 13" long on both sides. If I can, I'll bolt the whole mount through the frame rail, that way I can drop the engine down, lock it to the mount, then slide the mount with the engine in another inch or so towards the back of the car.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by yellowoctupus, 13 March 2011 - 06:09 PM.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#6 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 18 March 2011 - 07:12 PM

What is the best way to determine my transmission mounting height/ angle? I have the engine mounted, but I'm not sure what to do with my transmission mount.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#7 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 20 March 2011 - 06:09 PM

New Trans. Mount made up, fits like a glove. The original was stamped and welded steel, same as the mustang one, but this was a little easier, I guess. I am still a little curious if anyone has some thoughts on this one though, because my engine is offset towards the passenger side about an inch, the transmission is pointing slightly off center. Is this going to be a problem, or will it actually help the rollers in the universals rotate, and prevent them from "flat-ing"? By the way, this a 0.25" plate, being welded up to 1.25" hex, all being done with a 110V wire feed welder. PS. The holes in the plate are just because it's a scrap plate from something else. No function. If I get real ambitious maybe I'll weld em up too. Probably not though. Racing holes!

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by yellowoctupus, 20 March 2011 - 06:11 PM.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#8 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 26 March 2011 - 05:05 PM

Got transmission mount in, bolted up like a factory mount :) I just have to trim out a window for a casting lug on the transmission that is basically touching the front of the mount. Everything is lined up pretty straight too. I had to trim a tiny bit (~0.375" off the inside of one of the transmission mount hangers in the tunnel to kick the transmission over to the passenger side a little. The carpenters square (yellow) in the picture is butted on differential input flange. The scale was placed against the transmission output shaft and flipped over 180° to make sure the end of the scale was truly 90°. Surprisingly enough, it was. Here's a good reference on setting drivelines: http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=86

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by yellowoctupus, 28 March 2011 - 03:05 AM.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#9 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 23 April 2011 - 06:20 PM

So...spent the last few weeks getting wiring straightened out....sigh.... it's nothing less than a huge mess. I can get it to fire up for 3 seconds at a time. Every time. I think it has something to do with the PATS (ford's anti theft system) but I'm having one hell of a time figuring it out. If anyone has experience with PATS, please let me know.

Between banging my head on the wiring, I've also been doing the little pieces here and there. I've got a NEW driveshaft on order, should be finished next week. (ran me $290, I could have gotten it to $220 using the old D/S I had from a C6, but the already sketchy looking mods weren't worth the risk)

Here's a pic of the throttle cable (I actually flipped the first ball link connector around, unscrewed the ball end (one end is threaded on, the other is swaged) and drilled and tapped the end of an old 302 throttle cable I had to screw onto the cable. The pull was a little too short, so I just replaced the under pedal stop (in the cabin) with a longer flathead bolt. Works great.

Posted Image

Also, mod'ed the shifter to get it in the right position, although the console won't fit now... I'll either forego the console or re-mod the shifter lever to get it to work.

Posted Image

Oh yeah, and one more thing I didn't snap a shot of yet, I found a serpentine belt that works great if you remove the AC and PS pump, you just have to get a slightly smaller idler pulley that is ribbed instead of flat.

Edited by yellowoctupus, 23 April 2011 - 06:21 PM.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#10 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 15 May 2011 - 02:30 PM

Just some new 'update' pics. Got the clutch all straightened out. I'll get some pictures of the slave later, the engine is out for brake/ gas line routings and finishing up the engine cradle right now. The last picture is a Noid light, used for seeing if your injectors are firing or not, worked great and I already had the parts on hand for it. Apparently I already had a broken cold start valve (male end plug), the LED and resistors. Beats having to buy a complete kit at like $50 from Harbor Freight. (of course later, it was electrical taped up, so it didn't ground out) The cradle has nuts welded to the top of it now, the frame rails were drilled from the top, then bolts slid up from the bottom and then the nuts were welded in place. They're pretty much unaccessable from the top, so in from the bottom they go.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by yellowoctupus, 15 May 2011 - 02:33 PM.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#11 Trevor

Trevor

    HybridZ Supporter

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 720 posts
  • LocationRichmond, VA USA

Posted 16 May 2011 - 05:47 AM

If anyone has experience with PATS, please let me know.



'96-and-up Mustangs have a unique security system called the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS), which can cause problems for DIY engine swappers who aren't familiar with it. PATS is comprised of a steering column-mounted transmitter and an ignition key with a coded chip (arrow) that all work together to protect the 'Stang. When you attempt to start the engine, the PATS transmitter sends out a radio frequency signal that's picked up by the transponder in the key. Once the key's coded chip is recognized, the transponder returns a unique RF signal to the PCM, giving the OK for the engine to start and run. Engines swapped from PATS-equipped 'Stangs have no hope unless the processor, coded key, and transponder package are part of the process, or the PATS system is disabled with a plug-in chip or flash tuner.

Edited by Trevor, 17 May 2011 - 05:34 AM.

Tuning by Sears

       Styling by Walmart


#12 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 16 May 2011 - 06:03 AM

Trunk mounted? Hmm.. I think the 96 I pulled all the PATS stuff out of had the transponder mounted under the dash. Even with all the stuff wired up it didn't do the trick (matching ECU, PATS module, transponder key, and ignition pickup-halo). I found a guy through the corral forums that does programming dirtydirtyracing.com To turn off PATS, EGR, and the rear O2's on one ECU runs $125, for another $75 he'll put a custom tune on it, I got him to do two ECU's for $200 for the pats, egr, and rear o2's. I'm sending them in this week, so I'll let you know how they turn out.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#13 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 12 June 2011 - 02:27 PM

Been doing lots of wiring etc lately. ECU's seem to have been tuned right, as the car no longer dies after running for two seconds :) In the video below (the last picture there is a video), that's about 3/4 throttle, it will lay rubber on command, but my local friendly neighbor cop told me to stop running around the neighborhood with no mufflers (albeit, no comment about no plates/insurance), so no smokeout videos. Enjoy!

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#14 notheredave

notheredave

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 163 posts
  • LocationSan Diego, CA

Posted 27 July 2011 - 02:32 PM

Just some new 'update' pics. Got the clutch all straightened out. I'll get some pictures of the slave later, the engine is out for brake/ gas line routings and finishing up the engine cradle right now. The last picture is a Noid light, used for seeing if your injectors are firing or not, worked great and I already had the parts on hand for it. Apparently I already had a broken cold start valve (male end plug), the LED and resistors. Beats having to buy a complete kit at like $50 from Harbor Freight. (of course later, it was electrical taped up, so it didn't ground out) The cradle has nuts welded to the top of it now, the frame rails were drilled from the top, then bolts slid up from the bottom and then the nuts were welded in place. They're pretty much unaccessable from the top, so in from the bottom they go.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image



Hi yellowoctupus

I am interested in how you setup the t45 and why use a Chrysler brake master cylinder for the clutch...Also what did you used on the transmission for the slave? I am using a tremec 3650 which should be similar.

Thanks in advance
"All work and no play makes johnny a dull boy"

#15 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 28 July 2011 - 01:30 PM

This was my first try, it worked but was in the way of my exhaust. I mounted the stock Z 7/8" slave to the transmission mount. It also flexed the trans rubber mount whenever you pushed the clutch, so you lost some travel.

Posted Image

Try two, Wilwood cylinder 260-1333 works pretty well; it looks like it's bolted solid in this picture, but the thick yellow zinc washer is actually conical, allowing it to pivot on the cable stop hole. It's left loose enough to pivot, but not loose enough to see in this picture. I also pulled the cylinder apart to change the stud out on the cable stop end.

Posted Image

Another view: The larger 'nut' that is contacting the clutch release lever is actually a drilled out nut which is ground into a conical end to pivot against the clutch arm.

Posted Image

The Chrysler M/C was used because I wasn't sure what size cylinder I'd need, and from rough calculations came up with 1 1/8" (somehow). I think 1" would be better, as my pedal travel is limited to keep the slave from over traveling however. I only used the Chrysler, as I didn't want to have to buy two or three M/Cs to get it right. (Already had three of these sitting on my parts shelf...)

Edited by yellowoctupus, 28 July 2011 - 01:33 PM.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#16 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 01 August 2011 - 04:58 PM

Front exhaust 'y' pipe. Still waiting on my muffler to come in to finish up the rest....

Posted Image

Went to O'Reillys auto parts, they wanted $23 for ONE O2 Bung!!! Obviously that did not happen. If you reuse these bungs, just cut them out square, weld them in square. Easier than holesawing 1" holes on an exhaust corner.

Posted Image

Pertaining the clutch slave movement, right now my clutch disengages all the way with 1 1/16" travel, but I know I can get another 5/16" without filing down the back of the clutch release arm.

Edited by yellowoctupus, 01 August 2011 - 05:02 PM.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#17 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 21 August 2011 - 06:39 PM

So....the car is basically ready to drive, less putting the rad. fan back in, and hooking up one wire to the stock Z fusebox for lights etc.

Here's some pics of the finished exhaust and the battery arrangement I put together. It's not in the most convenient location, but I used the battery box area under the hood for my intake (and future airbox), and I really don't like when people have them inside their cars (in case of leakage, fire etc).

I went with a Thrush welded 2 chamber style muffler (PN 17649). From stock manifolds, I have 2.5" running until it comes together at a union behind the transmission, then it goes out 3". I was going to go with a quieter muffler, such as the Thrush Super Hush, but found an ACTUAL picture of the 3" through model and it actually necks down right before going into the muffler. What's the point in that?? Anyhow, it sounds pretty sweet with this one. Idles pretty quiet, but when you get into the throttle, it howls like all get out.

Posted Image
The exhaust is fully hung in there now. May need to add one additional support by the 3" SS flex though. I'll have to see how much movement there is when I'm driving.


Posted Image
This is the battery mount, it holds to the bottom of the 'trunk' area by 7 M6 screws. The bottom portion bolts on to the two hangers, so the battery can be removed with only the lower mount by 4 easy to access M8 bolts.


Posted Image
One of the bolts is the ground connection. The positive lead has enough extra cable that I can drop the battery to the ground and unhook it there. You CAN get to both of the terminal clamps from the 'as mounted' location though. It's just a little tighter to work on there.


Posted Image
The cable starts basically at the left headlight (a the fusebox/electrical distribution box), then I drilled an extra hole in the AC firewall insulator. This brings in the cable just to the left of center at the heater. Then the cable runs under the center counsel.


Posted Image
Used some insulator grommets I had kicking around and brought the cable into the trunk area, and exited right above the rear diff. I cut the 3" access hole to push the cable through. It was super tight on the grommet, but WD-40 and some long curved jaw needle nose pliers helped push it through relatively painlessly. Under the car to keep the cable from wrapping around the passenger axle, there is a rubber hanger that is used for the e-brake, I just fed this cable on top of it too. Worked out beautifully. As a side note, has anyone reclaimed the little toolbox things in a 280z, the way they were in a 240z? I was a little surprised to see the cutouts right there for them. Just wasted dead space right now. Someday I'm going to re-do that back area with the 240z height style in mind. (At least the first foot or so. Maybe just hinge the whole first foot in the opposite direction as the rear access is right now, so it's handy to get to from the passenger compartment....


Posted Image
Battery box sits just barely above the diff/ gas tank level, which is what I was going for. You could bring it up about 3/8" before hitting the fuel lines; as it is I had to remove some of the bend one of the fuel lines originally had to get it to fit. This mount is so solid, I can't flex it in any direction; it can probably be used as a new jack lift point.

Edited by yellowoctupus, 22 August 2011 - 05:28 PM.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#18 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 31 October 2011 - 06:12 PM

Just a quick update, I've had the car on the road for about a month now, driving it every day to work (30mi/day), and even taking it on a few (~150mi) longer trips on the highway. It's really fun, starts right up and runs like a dream. I don't have reverse, and have to double clutch it into 5th, but I think it's probably a bent shift fork. (Haven't had time to tear down the trans and check though, as this is my only car at the moment.)

A few notes:

1: Possibly change out the clutch M/C for a 1" bore (currently 1-1/8")and lengthen the pedal throw

2: Likewise lengthen the pedal throw on the accelerator, as it's a tad bit touchy. I'm used to it now, but anyone who takes the car for a spin has some difficulty getting used to it.

3: The exhaust has a low spot that is on a bend at the rear axle, that could be straightened out, it has hit twice while going through big dips in the road.

4: Get some better (tackier, etc?) tires. She gets a bit squirrley on rainy roads. Just rolling on the throttle (no clutch work), it will spin the tires in 4th. I didn't try 5th.


So far, although I'm not sure I'd recommend this swap (compared to a 5.0, etc) I'm 100% happy with the way it works and drives. It's awesome. :2thumbs:

Edited by yellowoctupus, 31 October 2011 - 06:12 PM.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....


#19 becareless06

becareless06

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 11 posts
  • Locationnewmartinsville wv

Posted 31 October 2011 - 08:36 PM

very nice thanks for the updates

#20 yellowoctupus

yellowoctupus

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 310 posts
  • LocationSilverdale, WA

Posted 29 November 2011 - 08:11 PM

2000mi mark coming up, somehow the tranny keeps putting along. Lately I'm working on getting gauges functional. Still have to do speedo and tach, but here's some notes on Oil and water temp:

Water Temp:

Make sure you have a return ground path for the original Z RTD (it's a plastic manifold = not a good electrical path..) I welded a stud to the Z sending unit hold-down collar, and ran a grounding strap from that to the block. I also had to get a universal gauge fitting adapter kit, and cut down the Z hold-down collar 1/8" for proper thread engagement. Seems to work well so far. By the way, I took a 'non functioning' sending unit apart for fun, it's pretty neat, I'll post some pictures later. Also, it works fine now that I took it apart... :bonk:


Posted Image


Oil Pressure:

I have been trying to use the mustang wiring harness as much as possible to not create a spiderweb of extra wires under the hood for gauges etc, so I made a plug converter to go from the original Mustang oil pressure switch (yes, even though the Mustang dash shows a gauge, the sending unit closes the circuit, and there's a fixed resistor behind the gauge, which makes the needle swing up to that set point. Pretty sweet, huh?) Just ignore the grey wire in the picture, that wasn't used (I was using a used M/F 3/16" spade connector and drilled a hole in the male end to accept the M5 bolt). I could have cut off the stock Mustang 'push on' end, but it's really a pain to get to, and I insist on soldered connections everywhere (even after crimping), and I certainly can't get down under the block to solder a different end on.

Posted Image

Edited by yellowoctupus, 29 November 2011 - 08:12 PM.

th_280z8.jpg?t=1288666770

Phil - 1978 280z + 4.6L SOHC DOHC Ford, just a 300hp Lincoln Engine Folks, nothing to see here....





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users