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After many nights thinking about it, the current Black Friday sale and optimizing my order for the most value for my money I finally decided to pull the trigger. Maybe it’s because of the size and weight of the total order but the calculation of the shipping was a bit weird. As the parts will need to be shipped to the Netherlands I knew the shipping would be expensive but my shipping came down to almost $600!! By combining some stuff I got the shipping to drop down to $280,- while still giving me the stuff I wanted and basically a free rear strut brace. Here is a list of all the stuff I got: - Front fender brace - Frame rails - Rear strut brace - Front control arms - Steering knuckles - Front crossmember - Upper steering rack clamps - Rear control arms While weighting my options Apex dropped there Retro Mod line of suspension which allows you to keep the stock R180 or R200 long nose differential, axles and spindles. I really wanted to get the new rear suspension and subframe but found it to be too expensive for me at this time. By dropping the rear subframe I got to order the front crossmember, control arms and steering knuckle and still be a lot cheaper off. Weirdly ordering all the front suspension bits separately was almost $300,- cheaper than buying the Retro Mod front suspension kit. Seeing as I don’t need the tie rods (and the steering rack, you need to buy that separately) I’m even cheaper off. I’m hoping to get the frame rails and fender brace fitted over the winter and have the car ready before next spring.

I don't know how you have the engine placed, but I would offset the engine about 1 inch toward the passenger side. The drive shaft angle is easier to minimize with the engine shifted in-line with the pinion. This also makes the weight distribution a little better when you are in the car.

My god, seeing that engine finally inside the car truly gives some perspective just how massive that engine is. The L series looks small in comparison!

SEMA SHOW-Complete Early Model 240z and All Aluminum Body Panel 240z This After Show will give you details about the latest news of Early Model 240z Body Panels. The First will a Complete Assembled Sheet Metal 240Z manufactured in China. Jiansu Juncheng Vehicle Industry Company makes Toyota La Madzand Cruiser 40,60 and 70 series,Land Rover 90/110 series, Ford Bronco1966-1977 Nissan 70-74 240Z, Volswagen T1, MadzaRX-3,and ToyotaAE86. Individual Body Parts(Doors, Hood, Fenders, Grilles,etc besides complete Body Assemblies. 240z Engine Compartment Pic 240z Front Wheel Well 240Z Right Inside Door × 240Z Interior Compartment Toyota A86 Interior Compartment These pics taken of their brochures. The Price List shows the Full Assembled 240Z costs $1500 arrived at Port of Los Angeles. Let me tell you my Automotive Background -I was a ASE Certified Automotive Mechanic and also ASE Certified Automotive Collision Repairman and Painter before I give you my opinion about these Chinese Body Parts. I gave this 240Z a good inspection and asked a lot of questions concerning the manufacturing of these parts. Their Sales Team was not very informed about the actual process of manufacturing of the body parts. So I had to go with what I could see and feel for this opinion. The parts seen to fit together ok but without a Frame Measuring Gauge( Tram Gauge I could not determine the Frame Squareness and Length. The biggest problem with these parts is their Corrosion Control Methods were lacking. They should be at least be coated Epoxy Primer before welding the car together. Nissan factory cars are completely immersed in tank of primer. This method insures primer covers even boxed sections of the vehicle. This a pic of the Storage Compartment behind both seats in the car. No Primer-Corrosion already on surface Maybe the Manufacturer was rushing to get the 240z into the Sema Show or maybe this is normal. This company was still looking for someone to distribute their parts in North America so we have wait and see. For more information- email this address Next-All Aluminum Panel 240Z manufactured in Japan

Hey everyone, I'm in the middle of rebuilding the L28 in my '81 280zx 2+2 and I've hit a brick wall. I'm trying to get the oil pan and the lower engine block/upper pan (the big cast aluminum piece) off, and it will not budge. I'm 100% sure I've removed all the bolts I can see, but it's sealed on there like it's welded. Here's what I've tried so far: Engine Oil Pan Separator Tool: Did a bit but not a lot. Razor Blade: I'm trying to work a razor in, but it's taking forever and barely making progress. I'm worried I'll be here for days. WD-40 : Thought that i could break up the seal/glue with it and... nothing Tap the side of the pan with a mallet to shock the seal; nothing I'm getting frustrated and don't want to start prying and gouge the mating surfaces. Am I missing something obvious? Are there hidden boltsthat I'm not seeing? What's the magic trick to breaking the seal on this RTV from hell? Any tips, tricks, or tools you've used for this specific job would be a huge help. Thanks!

I'm sure that you've considered it and I don't know what you would do to cure it if it is a problem but those engine mounts are very long lever arms. What happens if you grab the top of the engine and pull it side to side? Probably best to test it now than to wait. Even the mass of the engine in a turn will place a lot of force on them. Just something that grabs the eye from the pictures. Unusual engine mounting. Edit - fore and aft also. Much lifting force on the rear mount under braking. Fatiguing of the front crossmember engine mounting points might be a problem. It wasn't designed for that type of twisting force. And you've moved the elastic portion up to the engine at the top of the lever arm. The attachment to the crossmember is all metal. Hate to be a Debby Downer but you have access now to work on it, rather than later.

11-08-2025. VERY busy day. running around trying to finish all the little things keeping me from being able to drop the 4.2 into the Z. Then I dropped it in. Feels great to have gotten it done, at least this far. I also was able to do some old paint removal.....the paint on this car is SO THICK.........anyway, pics.

You don't need to change anything internally. Typically you would add some top ring gap on a turbo motor, but these motors already have plenty. My build is probably the cheapest high tech option possible, and I am very happy with the turbo's response and power. Back in the day it would be simply swapping some junkyard turbo model parts, but these days they are rare and not worth it. There are many ways to go about it, main factor is budget.

Did you see the turbo threads here? Kind of hard to find. https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/

Nice. The strut brace may not be really necessary; it sounds like you'll be making the upper rad core support stronger than original. 👍👍

Some of my stuff at Ortiz Aluminum Polish Specialist. Still in the process of being finished:

THANKS! Well, that is my intent. as it is hollow, I will fit a spacer inside for the grade 8 bolt to go through on both sides, so 4 total. I may have to get inventive as far as a strut tower brace, the 4200 doesn't leave room for that!I I am planning on making a thick aluminum plate that goes across the top of the entire radiator support and have it polished for looks.

Hey everyone, I’m working on converting my 1976 L28E into an L28ET and could use some guidance from those who’ve done it before. The engine is already torn down, and my goal is to build it back up as a turbo motor from the ground up. I’m planning to run around 8psi of boost—nothing crazy, just a solid street setup. I’ve searched through the forums and found bits and pieces, but I’m hoping someone can help me with a more complete list of what I’ll need. Specifically: What internal components should I upgrade or swap (e.g., pistons, head gasket, oil pump)? Which turbo setup works best for this kind of build? What ECU or fuel management options are reliable and relatively straightforward? Any tips on sourcing parts—junkyard compatibility, aftermarket suppliers, or trusted vendors? I’m not looking to cut corners, but I also want to be smart and cost efficient about sourcing parts. If you’ve done this swap or have solid info, I’d really appreciate your input. Thanks in advance!

That's one clean-looking shell....she's coming along nicely!! 👍👍 Have you made the upper portion of the radiator core support bolt-in? Done that with my last couple cars and it makes engine pulls sooooo much easier! As long as you have a decent front strut tower brace; there's very little stress on that section of the shell, IME.

Today I cleaned up the motor mounts and alternator bracket and gave them a coat of paint. I also drilled out the holes in the motor mount pads on the crossmember and painted the visible spots. Lastly the wheels came in....16x8 in the front, 16X9 -15 in the rear. Tires are 205/55R16 and 225/50R16. have to slot a couple holes ont he alternator bracket still and a couple holes on the motor mounts needs some time with a burr bit but almost ready to drop the engine into the Z.

The Datsun EFI system might look complicated but once you understand how it works it’s dead simple. Start with the basics and preform all the electrical measurements at the ECU plug. Don’t worry if the measurements are a bit out of spec and try and leave the AFM (Air Flow Meter) alone till you’re out of options. I suspect your issue might come down to something as simple as a bad connection or a broken wire. Try to look for damage to the wiring harness in the engine bay. Even though you replaced the fuel pump measure the fuel pressure just after the filter. The pump might be fine but it could still be that you aren’t building pressure. There is a fuel pump cut off switch inside the AFM to shut off the fuel supply if the engine stops running.

The computer grounds the injectors every third spark. It uses the wire to pin 1 to monitor the ignition system. There's a pretty simple electrical system check in the 1980 EFI book. Check the circuits before getting crazy with parts. That's why they wrote the books. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/

11-04-2025. I did a little bit of spot putty work this morning, have a few spots a couple thick coats of filler primer then went ahead and painted the engine compartment and cleared it. Yep, the work isn't very good.......I did what I could. PICS.

11-03-2025- VIN verification day. Trailered it to the dealer to get the VIN verification done. You can see some of the work that has been done, as far as rust repair.

Howdy! Recently picked up a 1977 280z, cars getting spark & fuel to the rail but it seems that the injectors arent firing. I’ve pulled them & cranked the car, they will fire at the very last second when turning the ignition off. Brand new fuel pump, & have changed the fuel injection relay out Any ideas? Not sure what to try next

Unfortunately I live in the Netherlands so I will probably never be able to attend SEMA and there aren’t a lot of S30 Z’s running around here let alone modified with Apex Engineered hardware. I do plan to change that over time as the suspension kits look really good not to mention the perfect timing of new Retro Mod line which retains the original differential setup. The wife isn’t happy with me spending money on the car but I really want my 280z back on the road this spring. I’ll wait till black Friday to see if there are any good deals and then contact for an order for at least the frame rails and rear suspension.

Need a set of 77 78 seat rails

Hello, we will not be there but there will be 2 (that we know of) Zs running our full line up at SEMA, A green 2+2 and a wrapped 240z! Feel free to check them out, ask questions and let us know if you have any questions

Got the title transferred. all legit now

This is the only picture that I could find of the car with the 16x8 wheels and stock bodywork: