All Activity

The ones from Cap Metal Works look like they are only the bottom rails. To me what I did which is much stronger as it uses that "U" channel on the bottom and the same "U" channel inside the car to create a fully boxed frame rail and the thickness of the "U" rail is very heavy duty. I am sure those do help but if you create a fully boxed version then it really is as s strong as a full cage for chassis rigidity.

Some of the parts I have gotten for the 3700 engine project so far.

I went ahead and worked on the 3700 today. I removed the balance shafts, and used the Badlands Industries delete kit. I then cleaned up and re-sealed the rear plate, installed the flex plate with a few bolts in case I want to do a compression test later, and then got it on the engine stand. Int he pics you will see the 4 speed automatic trans for it, a lockup unit GM "4L60e", that I will rebuild with all the tough parts and probably a 3000 RPM stall, unsure at this point. PICS:

A week or two ago, I began an engine and transmission project, thinking there may yet be another rip snorter in my future. Maybe a B210 or maybe a Roadster? I bought a ATLAS 5 cylinder engine, it's a 3.7, or 3700 cc inline 5. lengthwise about the same as a 2000 roadster engine, but yes it is taller. Like my 4200 it is all aluminum, 4 valves per cylinder, dohc, with VVTi on the exhaust cam. I additionally got a 4 speed automatic for it, a GM "4L60e", that is a lock up setup, where there isn't a lot of slush and stuff. I have already gotten some parts for the 3700, and I will post updates on here.

Skillard makes some aluminum ones. https://skillard.com/products/280z-rock-guards They look like they'd be pretty easy to fab also.

For a street Z I think most people have found exactly this to be a great solution, but I'll add that the full length frame rails from Cap Metal Works are probably plenty thick to do the job. T3 and others sell them, but T3 asked for their own lighter version that's a thinner gauge. I'm thinking of them and some KF Vintage floor pans. I wish that stuff had been available before I painted. When I was putting my car together I was dumping money at so many things that I just accepted the flat sheet metal pans and so-so rails the past owner had welded in as "good enough" but it definitely contributes to the flimsy feeling on turns.

I'm talking about the area between the fender and firewall area as shown here I see that apparently there was a factory inner fender but they are impossible to find and I'm only concerned about this back area. I suppose I'll try and fab an aluminum sheet or something

Jesse is great to deal with. I second Duffy's recommendation.

Cool!

Thanks, I did get this reply directly from Star Road, so it does not appear they are ready to sell them yet but hopefully by the end of the year? We apologize for the delay. The number of parts to be manufactured has increased beyond our initial plans; we are currently producing the final components—specifically the front apron panel, rear apron panel, and side sills. We expect to complete them before the end of the year and will determine the pricing after displaying them at the Tokyo Auto Salon. ＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊＊ 有限会社スターロード　井上 〒133−0051 東京都江戸川区北小岩8−23−1 TEL:03-5668-5675 FAX03-5668-5676 mail:info@starroad.co.jp http://www.starroad.co.jp

Use a liason. I have bought direct from star road through Jesse. Also it's normally cheaper to do it this way. https://jessestreeter.com/

The Star Road website will not accept my email inquiry as all name, email, and messages have to be in "katakana" characters, meaning Japanese. I sent a message to their Instagram and Facebook and will see if I get a reply. Otherwise it seems I would need to write and speak in Japanese just to talk to them....

I will look to see if there is any direct contact but when I last looked their only US distributor gave me this reply, "Still no updates from Star Road on cost or delivery. Thank you, Shipping department " We appreciate your business and hope to continue serving you in the future! Disclaimer: If you are not 100% satisfied with the item(s) you received, please return it within 14 days of when you originally received your order. To be eligible for a return, your item must be in the same condition that you received - no signs of wear, scratches, or usage and in the original packaging. Jdm-car-parts.com offer items shipped free to you, but in case there's a return, you will be responsible for the cost of shipping the item back to us. If a full refund is requested, we will promptly refund the purchase price, excluding the original shipping and any applicable credit card fees. There are no refunds on items damaged in shipping. You must file a claim with the carrier. We cannot guarantee that we will receive your returned item - you are responsible for the item until it reaches us. When shipping a return, consider tracking and insuring your package. Please allow 1-2 weeks for returns to be processed. All return NOS items are subject to at least a 25% restocking fee. All NOS electric parts-sales are final. NO RETURN, NO EXCEPTION. ******************************************* jdm-car-parts.com 22626 Normandie Ave. Suite E Torrance, CA 90502 USA No walk-in store front available at this time. Tech Support: 310-308-8986 (This is NOT an order line) *******************************************

Just contact them directly. Use a liason, they will sell them to you.

Unfortunately Star Road the North American firm that reps it still does not offer them; I have asked several times as I would be willing to purchase the doors and cowl.

I have several 240Z's. On one I did a 9 point cage consisting of a custom hoop with diagonal bar to the front passenger area near the tunnel with bracing on the rear towers and bracing for the front towers. Then on my other more mild 240Z I did a heavy gauge "U" channel frame rails under and inside the car covering the factory fake rails that went to the rear towers and all the way to the front of the car. What was amazing was that my mild 240Z solved the chassis twisting and was stiffer that my 9 point cage 240Z. I also had a rear end crash where I was fully stopped and a Prius hit my mild Z at 60 mph and only the rear end had damage, the car from the rear struts to the front were totally fine and so was I! That saved my life and the car was fixed with no issues. I also love that you have to be a real Z geek to even know it is not stock as the rails are just a little taller than the stock rails that they cover up so it looks like the car came that way from factory. Thus I would say frame rails but NOT the ones available at all of the companies I have seen as they are not that thick. The ones I used were strong enough where just one "U" channel not in the car would not bend even when you stand on it. Also my mild Z with the rails was stiff enough that you could jack the car and have 3 wheels off the ground so it was way better than the cage. I am adding that same "U" channels to my more extreme 240Z with the 9 point as I am installing a 750-900 HP RB30 turbo and the car will be a reliable 200 + mph 240Z.

Hi, I have a used 1976 fuel tank for sale: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/70030-280z-1976-parts-darom-part-2/#comment-685946 Would it work for you? The tank will need to be cleaned up by a radiator shop. Regards, Den

Fuse on my 1970 is below the ash tray.

Look if anyone has a spare or fuel sender from vintage tank solutions or even a tank for 260z

09-27-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Another day of catching up on small items. I went ahead and set up the front end for to do the alignment maybe next week....then I went to the back of the car, tightened down the bolts for the differential, checked the rear brake adjustment, and then finished wiring in the engine sensors to the gauges. I installed a couple emblems on the hood corner and on the decklid above the lock area. I cut a plate and painted it and fit it over the spot on the passenger floor plate to hide the mounting bolts, I will put an atlas Z emblem on there later. I mounted the fire extinguisher to the driver's side foot plate and set it in there for now, I installed the rubber strips I got to cover the window slot at the top of each door, and as you can se from the pics, they need a bit more work on them to finish that but got the ball rolling. I filled the water methanol tank only to find it has a crack and needs to be replaced, so that is added to the list. I spent yesterday on my 240Z, so today was a day to try and get more little nagging things done. PICS:

having just completed my first HPDE track day in my Z a couple weeks ago. I 10000% recommend at least trying one. Local clubs vary but cost to seat time to fun ratio is quite high. you dont need to have a track weapon. you don't need to be a professional driver. you just need to have fun.

super helpful, thank you luckily I only need replace about a 3rd of it, under the battery area ( its a RHD var), where the battery acid had got to you and it had a shunt at some point in time you can see it here https://photos.app.goo.gl/RXs2n6Hb6L7dRYRM7 and this view https://photos.app.goo.gl/LFhiBtxB9jTCcckn8 #1 step i get, #2. i was going to do the following a. take off the top reinforcement completely to expose the welds b. take off the rail and the wheel house c. then chop out a section of the f.wall and replace it with this FIREWALL REPAIR SECTION FULL HEIGHT RHD (BEHIND BATTERY TRAY) DATSUN240Z – KF Vintage d. then weldon the wheelhouse followed by the top reinforcement have i got it right?

In bygone days, the cognoscenti would note, that suspension loads passed through the chassis are much higher than loads associated with engine torque. Thus, chasing stiffness is more of a concern for precision cornering than for surviving high power/torque. Cary has an excellent synopsis above. I would add the possibility of a "Herb Adams bar" (his book, "Chassis Engineering", details it), which is a sort of spine, that is parallel to the transmission tunnel but sits above it. It connects to the dash bar and to the harness bar behind the seats. Each of these connections is triangulated... in the rear, to the rear strut towers. In the front, through the firewall to the front strut towers.

On my S30, the firewall was set back. Steps: 1. Weld the whole car to a chassis jig. By this one means 1"x1" uprights to the rocker panels etc, welded to the jig frame (big I-beams). 2. Cut off the front clip, just ahead of the firewall. 3. Cut out the firewall and the floor (area behind seats) in one piece; cut the floor at the rocker panels (which, as we recall, are welded to the chassis jig). 4. Build the roll cage on another jig. 5. Weld the roll cage into the rocker panels and the C-pillars. 6. Cut the floor-pan at the rear seats. Then weld it, and the firewall, back in. 7. Weld-in the rest of the roll cage. 8. Weld-in the front clip. 9. Weld-in diagonals etc. from the roll cage through the firewall to the front strut towers etc.

30 years ago I disassembled a 1970 240Z. No photos taken and all plastic bags with parts have deteriorated. This vehicle's Fuse box has a long pig tail. I can not find a clear depiction of exactly where this box is mounted. My memory is under the front console, but there are no obvious mounting locations. I have the Datsun Service manuals; but, they are not clear. Does anyone have a photo or can direct me to one. ZGEEZER