Leaderboard

Before removing the diff, I would check the u-joints on your driveshaft as well.

This winter I've been rebuilding the interior of my car. One item I could not find any information on at all were the mounting dimensions of the RS Mach Steering wheel. I believe in period this was a competition option, with the thicker wheel material and 380mm diameter often seen on the s30 and Hako Skylines. It seems the RS Mach wheel mounts more like the JDM s30 wheel compared to the deeper dish of the USDM wheel. Potentially I may machine a spacer to move the wheel further out but will see when I get everything back together. I know for the JDM s30 wheels it is popular to modify the turn signal stalk to account for the difference in wheel depth. I am also around 6' tall so also likely dimensionally different than the typical JDM person in period. Hopefully this helps someone. There is plenty of information out there for Checkman, Nardi, JDM s30 types, etc. types but nothing on this item.

Not knocking your work, but what was the rationale behind cutting your shock tower in half which is a major structural component of your car versus reworking the Jpipe which can easily be modified or re-fabricated? It looks like even after severing the shock tower, your Jpipe still puts your turbine hot side into the brake master cylinder which has already been ground down? After looking through your build thread I see you modified the bolt-on jpipe from an old turbo kit. The chassis has already been cut but I would advise you remake or modify the jpipe to fit the turbo properly away from your brake system. You may be able to reuse your modified jpipe by simply changing the angle on either flange.