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Always liked the early Zs especially a 240z a this guy came up for sale recently - seeing it in person tomorrow so I'll have a better idea then - apparently being sold because the guy is retiring and getting rid of all his toys Pros: 1. Bodywork done - "12k, 1 year spent at body shop to cut out all rust and install new metal" 2. Modifications: Small block chev. 600 lift Roller cam, Gold roller rockers,202 aluminum heads, MSD ignition&box, H.P electric full pump, 150 shot NOS system (Not used). Purge lighting built 700R Trans&Convertor, B.M. Shifter, I.R.S. 3.9 Gears Custom built half shafts (Good for 600HP), New weather stripping/INT/Roll Bar. 3. Looks on pictures that it's done right - looks like a very clean install Con: 1. Sat for 10 years since 2015, 3000km after the build (Drove the F-type jag he got instead). Apparently just started couple of times a year to keep things "lubed". Recommends all fluids changed, brakes bled etc before driving - so I won't get to test drive it and make sure everything's working properly before I buy it. Looking for recommendations on what to look out for, and key things to prep to get it ready to get back on the road.

Looks good and sounds good. Wouldn’t buy without a test drive though, he’ll start it though right? Hopefully just fluids and new tires and you should be good to go. Good luck!

With a good 5th gear, overdrive is wonderful... I have the mythical R200 with 3.36 rear gear. The transmission is a T5 with the G-Force Shafts and gears 1 through 4. I run short tires Avon 23 /10.5-15 on all four corners. When I first installed the G-Force gears I was only auto crossing the car, and really only used 2nd gear. When I started doing track days (Daytona and Sebring), I quickly discovered that 5th gear was horrible. With the stock gears, 5th wasn't optimal but wasn't too terrible (3.35, 1.94, 1.44, 1.0, .67). When I changed to the G-Force Gears, 1st gear was improved but 5th gear sucked (2.95, 1.95, 1.33, 1.0, .58) First time at Daytona, I was redlining 4th gear by the time I came off the banking onto the front and rear straights, and the .58 5th gear would drop my rpms and torque too much to be useful. The .58 5th gear was horrible, so I pulled the transmission and took it to Astro Performance in Tavares, Fl and had them install the A5 5th gear (0.81). The difference was night and day. Overdrive went from a total buzz kill to being my Warp Drive... If you get a transmission with a good 5th gear (TKX with .81 5th), then you'll be fine. This is what the gear spread (speed versus rpm) looks like: Here is what a full acceleration run looks like if you assume 0.25 second shifts: The above uses numbers from my old dyno chart and the following inputs: Dyno graph from my old engine (my new engine makes more power and torque):

The tranny/rear is a trade off. You really dont want to shift to 5th at 120+mph. The wind resistance will drop you 10+ mph and if you are not in power band you will not accelerate much after that. Not good for Daytona. Rule of thumb is the more peaky your engine is, the closer tranny ratios you need to keep it in power band. The other rule is select gearing to be well into power band or just over in top gear, top speed. Depending on engine you may need a different rear/and or tire ratio to run Daytona, it is different than other tracks. Many club racers run the final 1000-2000 ft at redline, but that can be risky.