Leaderboard

Through bolting the sway bar is definitely a good idea. On mine, I ran a thin wall tubes through the holes in frame rail and welded them at the holes in the frame. The tubes allow me to fully torque the sway bar bolts without crushing the frame rails.

New turbo cam from Steve Bonk arrived this weekend! Excited to see how it changes the responsiveness on the turbo and hopefully I'll get much earlier spool and more pleasant street driving. I've started disassembling for the installation and checked everything. It looks like previous builder used different lash pad sizes for intake and exhaust, which wouldn't seem that odd on a "proprietary" grind, except every one of the shorter pad sizes had the wipe pattern pretty far to the pivot side of the rocker arms and the taller ones were nearly perfectly centered. I know the one time I did a valve adjustment a while back wasn't perfect with my limited experience, but I find it hard to believe I'd be that far off with how paranoid I was about using the right feeler gauge for intake and exhaust. One of the intake rockers and the lobe it was on were fairly damaged but everything else looks good. Got some advice from Steve on the lash pad sizing based on my current specs. I'll be ordering new pads tomorrow and hopefully two new rockers to replaced the damaged ones I found. Also ordered some new valve stem seals. Figured now was the best time.

A little progress this weekend. Painted the engine cradle and started making some brackets for the front sway bar. Going to mount the sway bar mounts by through bolting through the frame. Someone had already done that, but bolt holes were all wonky and not vertical, so made new holes and going to weld some plates for extra support. Going to use the angle iron as part of my radiator mount, and will also support sway bar bolts.