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A few pictures from the last time the engine was out

The front plate mid plate set-up was way easier than regular motor mounts. I originally used stock mounts, but switched to the motor plates when I decided to make it purely a track car. The front plate is 1/4" aluminum and sandwiches between the water pump and timing cover. The rear plate is .090" steel and sandwiches between the block and bell housing. The front plate on mine attached to tabs welded to tubes at the front strut towers. The mid plate is attached to two tabs welded to the frame. I use a regular rubber transmission mount. You can buy front and mid plates for the SBF that have the water pump and bell housing bolt patterns already machined. The plates come with a lot of extra material that allow you to trim to fit about anything.

Finally had the time to head south and pick up the replacement transmission and enjoy a cup of coffee while we were at it. And what better way to pick up a transmission for the broken one in your Z then with said Z! 😂 All jokes aside she still drives fine except for a worn out syngro on second gear and a missing fifth gear. The replacement gearbox is a >80’s FS5W71B 5-speed from a 280ZX that’s been in storage for a long time. I’ll be ordering some new seals and transmission oil before switching out the gearboxes for some peace of mind.

I love my front plate/mid plate mounts. It opens up lots of room under the engine and stiffens the front structure. The downside is that you hear and feel everything from the drive line.

work has been to busy, small update. Headlight bucket has been welded in and planished. Everything is starting to look alot better and starting to feel like an actual car again, not just pieces.

I drove the car about 3/4 of a mile around the block.... tune needs a lot of work (obviously), tires had a slight rub and it rattled a bit but was so exciting and such a relief after a year of hard work. Got the rest of the windows in as well. Wife offered to polish all the trim so I gave her some supplies and let her scrub away. also added a couple interior shots.

Got an Accusump for the Z, and made a mounting bracket for it. I’m going to have another plate on the front side to weld on some angle iron for the oil cooler to mount on. Added a pressure sensor so I can read the Accusump oil pressure with the engine oil pressure so I can see when it’s charging and discharging. the bottom bolts are just to hold the clamps and it’ll sit up slightly higher when it’s tightened up.

08-14-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE/. Plastics 4 Performance has sent the final draft for my polycarbonate rear hatch "glass" for my approval. It is ready for production! The vents are to give the car an even more open air feel, which is what I want with this build. should look pretty cool. 8/32 bolts will be around the edge with a thin rubber layer between it and the lip on the hatch. Ferrari uses the vents for engine heat.....I used them because I like the look and as I said the open air feel.......no glass at all looks too unfinished to my eye. PICS:

Whats with the cold air intake? You already have a giant hole in the hood all around the turbo

That is just beautiful. As great as always to see your posts.

how much of a "notch" would your cradle need to sit down? maybe notch it and attach it to the those apex supports aswell as the frame?

Well bit of a bummer this weekend, I made a mock up of the engine cradle out of cardboard and it doesn’t fit, the extra bracing on the Apex track attack kit interferes. I made a mock up using 1-1/2” instead of 2” and it might work, still a little tight. I’m going to try and make it with the 1-1/2” and change the geometry a little, hopefully it’ll work. Since no fab/metal shops were open over the weekend to get the 1-1/2” tubing I decided to make a bracket to mount my clearview remote filter. I’ll get it painted and re-mount it. Not sure this will be its final location, but I’m happy the way it came out.

For anyone who's swapped or planning to a BMW S50B32, I have two special, exclusive engine covers to sell. A = usd$250 shipped B = usd$350 shipped

Big update on aesthetics. Got the whole front put together. Made a "crash" bar out of chromoly the support the front valance and fenders. It wraps around the front and the valance "rest" on it for support. Went a little extra because I know in the future im going to build a splitter and having a solid place for mounting will be needed. Front and rear glass is back in. will polish the quarter windows and put the side glass in this week. Fitted the fiberglass 240z bumper (had to do some trimming and fitting). need to make a more permanent center brackets. just wiped up some simple aluminum bars to hold it in place. Then i'll spray it a satin or semigloss black i think. I'll experiment. I don't think it would look good orange but maybe. Finished up the wiring to the back of the car. The PDM really simplifies the amount of wires. Added a few extras for future modifications/add ons. All the lights and electronics are working. Slowly working on the tune. it starts and free revs nicely. I plan on trying to get it registered and insured this week so i can start getting it finished up Then for the first time, under its own power. Drove it outside, took some photos and drove it back in. very exciting. Seeing it sitting in the sun, all the work I have into it and to be extremely happy with it. I'm proud of this one.

Painted the bracket and snugged it up, happy with the way it fits. I’ll add a few more bolts but waiting to incorporate the bolts into a bracket I’ll make for the oil cooler when it comes in. I really need to get this engine back in, so I picked up some steel today, going to try and fab an engine cradle following the specs Brian Laine has posted online. Hopefully I’ll get some time this weekend to start on it.

The past two days the site has been absolutely perfect in all aspects. Don't know what was done, but it sure worked! Today for the first time in ages absolutely no issues with responsiveness.

Alright, finally got some time to make some more progress. The engine is mostly disassembled, and I have mics and a bore gauge coming to measure clearances. I am planning on a stock engine, with the oil fixes, and a bigger turbo. I am not concerned with making a ton of power; anything will be better than the stock L24, and I just want it to not blow up immediately. I am new to engine work, and have a couple of questions: 1. Does anyone have any recommendations for what size oil restrictors to use? Enjuku sells oil gallery restrictors in 0.9, 1.1, 1.3, and 1.5 mm. 2. I have googled RB25 specs for rod and piston bearing clearances, but does anyone have a trusted source that they recommend? Thanks for all the help! I have read through the site and watched a couple of rebuild videos, but I'm still not 100%, and I don't want to make a stupid mistake.

I finally had some time this weekend to work on the Z again and finish off some of the little things that where nagging me. I finished my DIY door card project and got them installed in the car. I must say that they turned out pretty good. The only finishing piece would be to add the wood trim back in but I would have to make one myself. A few weeks ago I managed to pic up a set of Euro taillights from an original Dutch 260z that where in excellent condition. So with the remaining time I had that day I quickly switched them out. Yesterday there was a small all Nissan/Datsun meet I attended which gave me the opportunity to compare my Z with others and do up some inspiration for future modifications. Afterwards I finally had the time to take some proper pictures of the car (with the car not half apart) and cruise along the dikes. WhatsApp Video 2026-07-13 at 09.15.40.mp4

Got a new tool chest, been accumulating a lot of tools with this build and ran out of room to store everything. Space is limited in my garage so this will get a pile off the ground. Took a break from the heat and built two panels in the nice A/C. First panel is for anything not tied to emergency cut off like locks/lights/signals, with cut off solenoid on bottom to feed the second panel. Second panel has 3 250amp relays to power a relay box, fuse box and distribution block each running off of ignition 1, 2 or accessory position of push button start. Not sure if that’s the right way to do it, but that’s what I’m going with for now. I’ll get back to the garage and work on some other projects next.

im not happy voltage drops on this thing. best would be new fuse box re-route wiper and lights. i might try easy re-pin cause common, dome and lights uses same source. if that fuse box connector is some how the issue. on dome light i have not much draw, swap dome and light pins on end of connector

so, i failed MOT. there was no brake lights. fixed that it was loose connector on brake light switch but i found that parking light fuse was burning hot, measured current draw it was 5.6amps, seems to be common problem to melt fuse box. i did my math thought aging pressed pins heat cycles might have added resistance between those two connection so i soldered every connection. as i said earlier every load has dropped voltage slightly, no load its 13.8volts, press brake and it drops 13.3V. lights on wipers on fan at full blast i remember seen under 12volts on lighter socket. lets see how it goes after this work, if that park light fuse still gets hot first aid is led bulbs

I weighed the Z with the sr20det in it and it came in at 2395. The car has changed significantly since then. I plan to corner weigh the car later this summer. I have a spreadsheet where i track parts i've installed and removed with best guess weights. I believe the car is probably around 2521lbs, give or take. I'm not sure how much my rollbar weighs (i guessed 100lbs). I would like add a full leather interior with lots of sound deadening at some point. I have been eyeing the star road aluminum body panels. My dream is to make this car the Singer of 240z for me.

you ever weighed this? I always thought a Z with a k series would have a great balance.

It was messy, but axles are put back together. Overall pretty easy with the correct parts, probably spent more time cleaning up all the grease 😂.

Oh, I think I figured it out. I do need a 3 wire bulb on the inner upper bulb to make the top two lights as brake lights. Per my first picture the 3rd wire on inner upper would be G which is shared with outer upper and outer lower, this is how early 240z's are. I need to snip top two G wires and run that to the brake output wire which I changed to GY on the picture which is Green / Yellow the color of brake switch output wire. Should look like this to make it work:

Not to hijack this thread but i can answer a couple of your questions regarding the K series engines as i was a Honda guy before i dove into old Z's. The K20A3 is the worst K series offering, you wont make anywhere near the power OP has made even with boost. I would say 300 hp is probably about the max for that motor. It does not have "real" VTEC, it only has variable valve timing on the intake cam. The valves are smaller in the head and the pistons have a weird shape as well as being lower compression. All that being said, its still a good engine, especially for free 99 lol. If you can do your own fab work swapping it in a Z will probably cost you a few grand still but would be a fun setup and quicker than an L series engine. The great thing about doing it using this engine is once its done your setup for a K series and you can find better K series options in the wild for very reasonable, so down the road if you wanted to upgrade, its just a simple engine swap. Hopefully this helps.

It feels slow often for me from all the ads, pop ups, click bait ect trying to load. Its practically useless to view on a phone. But I get it, need money to host it, but it also destroys it. Sorry