Leaderboard

Found this on Grassroots Motorsport web page. Seems Legit Garage is adapting some interesting modern trannys to other platforms. Think $2k for a fully sequential used 8sp box, any HP needs you have. The ZF-8HP from BMWs, Dodge and others can be fully reprogrammed for sequential operation and even add a dbw pedal to simulate a clutch launch. Might be a good project for someone that could adapt this to an L6 easily....Derek? Transmission Solutions | "Seems Legit" Garage https://share.google/HyOxohcae82yQu0Th

Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum and today I'll be picking up my very first Z. It's a silver 1977 280z coupe with a 5 speed manual gearbox. Any recommendations of what I should be looking for? I bought the car site unseen at an auction. Yeah I know, not the greatest idea but I got a good deal on the car. I do know from a dealer I saw the car at a while back that the frame rails might have some rust spots but the seller listed the car as "free from rust and structural damage". Luckily the seller won't get his money until we bother agree the car is as advertised so I can still low-ball the shit out of hem. (The seller was bragging to the dealer how he would make a massive payday trough the auctions the dealer told me. But guess what, he lost money on it) My plans for the car are to just get it road worthy for now and then upgrading it over time. I was thinking about rear disk brakes, ITB's with new engine management and some carbon fiber body parts like the hood, fender flares, spoiler and aero bumper. After the cosmetic upgrades I'll be painting the car Nissan Midnight Blue as I just love the color. And yes the car is loosely inspired by the anime Wangan Midnight I saw when I was a kid. Call me a week but it was my first interaction with the S30 chassis and I loved them ever since.

Yes I have both. And bleeding the clutch is as simple as opening the bleed screw, let a few drips out, and tighten. The thing that takes longest now is removing that giant shifter and the 3 shift rods. And adjusting shift throws when reinstalling. 3 bolts hold shifter and 2 rod ends per shift rod. I can't find a better way to speed it up. AND I cranked the car Saturday and the clutch is close but still not fully released. So another round is coming.

The turbo lamik stuff is very trick, and it has a lot of potential. The weight is a downside, but it's low and centered. I have a buddy who just put one in his 2JZ swapped FC RX-7, and he didn't have to touch the tunnel. There are a couple guys on IG as well who have swapped these in with good success. I think compared to the T56's they are only slightly heavier, but much stronger and have nicer ratios.

Looking good. Seems like that's always some of the most rewarding parts of any resto....getting all those hard-to-access areas cleaned up, rust repaired, straightened/strengthened/reinforced, and freshly painted. 👍

All painted. Going to do another coat of semigloss for the engine bay, but frame/fenders are ready for suspension 😁 I’m hoping to start next weekend

I think the only downside, other than size, is the 180 pounds these weigh, from my research. DCGs are very heavy and have a deep oil pan that limits ground clearance. For a high HP car where the weight isn't a problem, I think that they could be a good solution. The MaxxECU is a nice bit of kit. I got to see one being put on a friend's car and it had tons of IO for the cost.

I am posting this to celebrate my triumph! After full assembly of engine and tranny I could not get the clutch to release. Quartermaster 7.25 v-drive attached to L6 flywheel from TTV Racing. Quatermaster 710 series TO bearing. Chevy clutch disks to mate with 4sp Jericho. QM Button clutches require precise gap from fingers to TO bearing of .120-.150 so I removed tranny multiple times and reset the gap with shims. Everytime I measured gap I got a different measurement. The clutch slipped a little with pedal in but required a breaker bar to rotate driveshaft. Remove tranny, reset gap, reinstall, bleed clutch, check release. After maybe 8 times I stopped and thought about it. Then read directions for the 10th time. Suddenly it stuck out, make sure clutch disk does not interfere with flywheel bolts. I've seen this before. Years ago I ran a similar set up with the head ground down on OEM flywheel bolts. This time I am using ARP flywheel bolts for a RB26. They are 12pt bolt heads already kind of thin, so I didnt consider they could interfere. Well I was wrong. So I ground maybe 0.020" off the head and reinstalled. In the pic you can see marks where the clutch rivet went across the bolts and 3 bolts I have already ground down. On the positive side, I am very efficient R&R the tranny now. Maybe 90min total. And it pops into the pilot bearing like a glove.

08-07-2025. DYNO morning. Found out a couple of things. 7 psi in 3rd gear WOT at 5500 RPM, 9 psi in 4th gear WOT 5500 RPM. She is RICH....rich to the point of fuel popping, 10.0 to 1, A/F rich, and didn't want to go past 5500 RPM (strange since on the road she will but nevermind). So, there is probably 40 horsepower left in her in the DYNO guys mind. We made 4 runs, and in 4th gear without using any Water/Methanol injection, it pulled 196.8 hp at the rear wheel, at 5500 RPM and at 18% drive train loss that is 232 hp at the crank@5500 RPM. Torque was 268.3 at the rear wheel, 316.59 at the crank@ 5500 RPM. Boost was 9 psi at 5500 when he had to let out because it was so rich. We did a run in 3rd gear WITH water/Methanol and it pulled 226.7 hp at 5500 RPM at the rear wheel, so 267 HP at the crank@5500 RPM and 260 torque, which is 306.8 TQ@5500 RPM, boost was 7 psi. So, as I thought when building it, the stroker and the stock cam made it into a torque monster. well over 300 ft lbs. torque, 232-267 horsepower.....but it is PIG RICH. So, power is limited by being rich. I have dyno charts, but the RPM range at the bottom is all wrong. we weren't able to get to 6000 RPM because of the rich condition. He said it was basically 10 to 1 A/F on the runs, which is WOT, so the main jet is just too big. I can step it down one. As expected, the carb is the limiting factor. I will post the dyno sheets, but as I said the RPM range at the bottom is wrong. he let off at 5500, I wanted 6000 RPM but he said it just wouldn't do it., when he let off the throttle the unburned fuel was popping and banging. Pics follow (video at the end). V1.MOV

A simple solution for door slamming problem? I finally finished my 8.8 Super Duty 8.8 Differential Conversion so I had time to handle all those small detail work. During my restoration work, I used Precision Weather Stripping to my worn OEM ones. But the Precision Weather Stripping always seemed too stiff for its job. So anyway, I gave them about 4 months but still had to slam the door to seat the weather stripping. It never got better so I know some members used late model KIA weather stripping from Amazon and good results. So I tried the Kia weather stripping. It was a lot softer but still had to slam the door. I decided to remove the Door Latch and study its operation. After removing it, I cleaned it and lubricated it with White Grease. Everthing seemed tested fine when it was out of the car. But after installation, the problem was still there. The Door Latch seemed like it still needed a little more inward movement to function properly. So with the Door Latch installed, I watched the Locking Mechanism operation. As the Door Glass was not installed yet, you have a good view of the Locking operation. this is when I noticed that one of the Latch Mounting Phillips Screws( 6mm x 1.0) was hitting the Linkage. This Screw is 4MM too long. The Easy Solution was to cut off about 4MM of the threaded end of the screw. Pic of the Long Phillips Screw-Inner Bottom Mounting Latch one. ". , Pic of "Corrected Phillips Screw" I really don't know when the Phillips Screw was mistakenly replaced with a Longer One. Owning the 240Z for 54 years, I am sure I removed the Door Latch at least 4 times. Anyway, if you are having Door Slamming Problems, check the LATCH MOUNTING SCREWS. It was a Simple Solution for me, maybe for you, too.

I have two heads in stock as I type this so the head can actually be purchased. I can't help that you can't afford it. That's a feature not a bug. For the very beginning my goal was to provide the components so that talented engine builders could make the decisions on the types of components they wanted to use. Based on what I've seen and taking the pricing of the relatively simple L6 head as the baseline I highly doubt it. I'm not really sure what I did to put a burr under your saddle but you remind me of the guy that starts a fight in the line to get into the club because he can't afford the cover charge. Just get out of line and go somewhere else.

And on to steering. All of my OEM rack and pinions on the shelf had a dead spot and I thought this would be a good area to upgrade. I chose a Coleman Racing square rack in a ratio just slightly quicker than stock. But to use a circle track rack, I would need to widen the tie rod mounts to get the correct length, which should be equal to the control arm mounts. I search around the internet and found an adapter bracket design that I decided to copy. I designed a welded assembly made from waterjet cut mild steel that had the correct length and the slotted adjustment. Most rack manufacturers will tell you not to do this, but they like to make custom length racks also. I like the design because it will make eliminating bump steer very easy. As you can see, I had to do some surgery on the cross member to get access to the rack spline.

I got mega burned by Apex on the rear track attack. Was one of the first buyers of it and back then it didn't even have enough parts to even bolt it to the car. The design of the rear kit is just for looks. Much feedback was given to them in how to improve it, but it was widely ignored. Shame because the cradle design is a good base to start off of.