akeboshi

Just used your tables for my startup/break in and its pretty good. I havent flogged on her yet but Ill let you know. Its running on ms2extra latest code with an N42/N42 NA-T conversion using turbo pistons, a very shaved head of unknown static compression with 77 n/a cam, stock t3 custom emusa intercooler with 3 inch piping with an msa downpipe w/o exhaust and using srt8 14 mm high impedance injectors on a modified n42 intake.

Thanks for the tip. I actually took it for a test drive last night. What I meant by wiring the shield and signal wire together is I made a junction box with terminal strips and I wired them how they were supposed to go according to the megamanual, shield at pin 2, signal at pin 24. I was just worried that having some of the signal wiring exposed inside where I soldered them up inside the headphone jacks. Its all built with the intentions of being able to remove it quickly without cutting anything or adding more stuff at a later time like wasted spark ignition or the like. My actual problem with the tach signal was the grounding spade connector on the side of turbo dizzy. Its important to ground it to chassis or block.

Just a quick side note, the standard stim board doesnt support the tach input for the extra code. Example is I had a motor running the 12-1 diy wheel with b&g code, works fine on motor and stim, same motor and same stim with extra code = no bueno amigo with the stim. I had to use the engine to check the firmware LOL. Im running extra code boooyyyy!

Hello, Just installed ms2 on my new motor and it starts up fine but I havent had more than about 5 minutes to even play with it. I tried to rev it but it misfires alot and wont rev up. The log says i reved it up to 4700 rpms. No way, I didnt even build boost, but anyways... Im thinking the way I wired up the Tach and associated shielding might be the problem. I used a headphone jack to connect the wire and the shield together at my junction box to make it a quick dissconnect. Is this stupid? Let me know, Im almost ready to take the beast on a break in run. Thanks all!!! IMG_0016.MOV Heres the vid of the first start.

Sent you an electonic mail. Youre welcome!

Ok, so I went ahead and bought new pistons and just installed the pins. I heated the small end of the rod up then pushed the pins though but on most of them I didnt get the pins all the way through. I used a press to push them the rest of the way through (using a piece of wood under the piston, in the small recess where the pin holes are)and now they feel tight. I was under the impression that they needed to move under their own weightlike loosey goosey. Did I do something wrong? I can move them with my hands just fine but they feel.... not right.

No, you didnt search...

I guess my rod being backwards is a blessing in disguise. When I pull the rods out I saw that one of the bearings was chewed up on the edge. Turns out my crank was damaged in the raduis area of the journal. Damn, oh well, I already pulled another crank from the junkyard, The car it came from had 289K on the odometer so I will take some good measurements and inspect it more closeley.

Good luck with the leak hunting. I would wake up at 4am to work on my car too except I go to bed late and Im too lazy to get up that early. I only get 3 hours a day on wed/thurs/friday myself

@ josh817 No problem, This is straight out of the how to rebuild your nissan datsun OHC engine book by Tom Monroe, Use the notch or arrow on the piston dome, rod number and oil squirt hole in the rod as reference for positioning the piston and rod. the notch or arrow must point toward the front of the engine block; number to the left and squirt hole to the right. I ended up ordering some new turbo ITM pistons/rings from the parts dinosaur guy for 202 dollars shipped! They should be here tomorrow.

How did the leak testing go? You will definitely be able to find the leak with the "snoop" leak detecting compound. I leak test with this stuff weekly. I pressuize the system im leak testing to 170 psi for 1 hour and then I vacuum drop test to make sure. If it drops more than 5000 microns in an hour then, I repressurize and do it all again. It never fails! Too bad Im just now reading this, I could have gotten you some snoop for free....

... I was worried about running those pistons anyways, this gives me a excuse to get some new turbo pistons. Parts dinosaur has a set with rings for under $200.00 What a steal.

The piston/rod assemblies came from another motor. I didnt catch this when I was putting them in the new motor, then I saw the section in the datsun book about it and went to double check it. The piston was installed the wrong way from the old motor.

LOL, its the same size as the thumbnail! Cool pic though.

OK.... By the way, I installed ARP stuff on this motor, would it be ok to retorque everything or should I consider these ruined after lossening them up? Also has anyone had any firsthand experience doing this on their engines? Just curious as to why they have to be one orientation vs another as they look to be symetrical.

I just finished building my new motor and I was thumbing through the How to Rebuild your Datsun Motor and I saw that there is a particular way the rods need to face. I dont remember which way mine were so I dropped the oil pan and come to find out they are the opposite way the book says! The motor spins freely and I have the correct crankshaft thrust so how imprtant is it to have them installed one way or the other? Is my engine gonna bind up? Im alittle worried now. I could use some insight please. Marcus

ROFLMFAO!!!! Thats me too!

So is the sequencer for microsquirt or for the V3 board? To my understanding the sequencer was to adding sequential to an ms2. I didnt think they were still doing the sequencer, its cool to know they are still doing development on it.

What ecu are you running? megasquirt? How did you wire up the coils? Very cool, hope you dont mind if I use your idea.

One can only expect the best quality budget saving ideas from TrumpetRhapsody! Great idea thanks. I plan on going the shadowlogger route so Ill definitely get a nook for this. Has anyone tryed out the wyfly modules btw? It looks confusing to set up. Could use a little better explaining on the mobisquirt website.

Like letitsnow said, extra has more features like nos, flatshift/launch, boost control, different types of rev limiting, and the biggest thing is bigger tables 16x16 like the ms3 daughtercard. You can do 4 banger sequential and 8 banger semisequential too. I was gonna run it but I couldnt get my trigger to sync up. I would recommend using a standalone boost controller if I were you though unless you can risk blowing your motor up as it has very limited field testing (just saying this because I havent found alot of writeups on this). They are beta testing mobisquirt for your iphone too and they use the extra code for testing so just another thing to think about, wireless datalogging from your iphone! marcus (aka Akeboshi)

i tried posting up the files but it says i dont have permission to do so. i made a new account and it also says the same thing. do i hve to do something special?

I played with his car again yesterday. i spent a few hours looking for a map and i decided on one that cygnusx1 had done up. I will actually be using the same one for my car when I finish it. Anyways, we got it to start, I made the whole ignition map 10 degrees, and set timing using trigger offset. good to go at 10 degrees advance (and on a side note i was pleasantly surprised at how steady the timing was with the optical dizzy) and we took it for a drive. It was rough to say the least and he didnt really get into it but I think its a good starting point. I just wanted to post the datalog and msq so somebody would look at it and maybe say yay or nay. On an off note, we popped 2 more fuel pump fuses trying to start it up. I dont know why because everything looks good. I looked at the fuel pump and looks like a new walbro unit. I checked all the wiring and it is straight. The only thing i can think of is maybe the coil is somehow making it pop. the power wire comes off the relay board and then the coil gets spliced in (with its own fuse) on the wire going to the fuel pump. But thats the way it looks like its supposed to be. maybe im wrong. anyways just an update.

Hello, I had a silly question about the turbo dizzy. there are two sets of slits inside the dizzy. Does this mean that there are two laser beams in the dizzy? I was asking this because I was wondering what the unused wire on the dizzy was originally for? The one that is not used when using ms2. This one

email gabe from techno toy tuning. i got my ground control kit from them. he gave me the measurements i needed for the struts i used (which he recommended.) it was about $900. 425 shipped for the ground control kit and about the same for my tokico illumina struts.