RPMS

Thanks, man! I appreciate the suggestion. I've subscribed.

Howdy, Nick! Did you ever have this Comp Cams camshaft installed? I'm thinking about putting a similar cam into my car this spring while the engine is out, and I'd love to hear your opinion of how the car drove afterwards.

Great color, Ironhead. Very eye-catching.

Whoa, that's nice! I think your rear wing is a bit small, though. I am searching for a nice hood. Let me know when you have one in carbon fiber that you're ready to sell!

Wow. That's very cool!

It looks like a great resource. Thank you!

Your massive twin turbos look like a curly moustache on the face of your Z. Gave me a giggle that I sorely needed today!

Phantom, I know this is an ancient thread, but what was the resolution to your low oil pressure issue? (my guess is a bad sending unit.)

Will you take $150 for both headlight nacelles?

Just for the sake of history, what was the gasket size? And for my own curiosity, was one of your collectors pointed about 2 degrees off? One of mine was headed straight for the oil pan.

I didn't see anyone else actually say this, so I'll chip in for future readers. There is no dash pad to remove. The padding is bonded to the frame, and it all comes out as a unit. The first time will take a couple of hours, of which most of the time will be spent finding all the electrical connectors and disconnecting the four big connectors behind the glovebox. Don't neglect to label all the connectors before you remove them, or you'll spending the final hour of the job figuring out where that last damned connector plugs into. Don't neglect this, even if you THINK you're going to remember where everything goes. In addition to the above, you also need to remove the four bolts holding the steering shaft to the underside of the dash. One person can do the job but it's MUCH easier with two, especially when you're trying to maneuver the dash out of the car.

I'm tempted to buy that myself!

Sounds like a bad starter motor. I'd take it out, give it a couple of gentle whacks with a hammer and see if it spins when voltage is applied. Rebuilt units are pretty cheap, last I checked. Double-check me on this, but I think I once accidentally replaced my 240 starter with a 280 and it spun the engine with a lot more vigor than before, despite being cheaper.

Write off the 280. It would be a good bet if you knew what you were doing, but at this point you don't. A 280 that's powered by 40 year old electronics can be difficult to keep running in the first place. Assembling one out of parts? You're asking for heartache. The 260 is much simpler to get running, even if it does have some rust on it. (and it will have MUCH more than you think!) Like the others have said, bring a battery and see if it will run before you buy it. Don't bother swapping out the crappy carburetors for better ones because you're going to swap the entire engine soon anyway, just run it for a year and learn the ins and outs of owning an S30 before you take it apart. You may decide that you don't like the headache of owning an old car! It's not nearly as easy as owning a car that's 20 years younger. No shame in that - sometimes it's much more pleasant to look at old cars than it is to own one of them. Oh, and if any Z you look at has rust (and all of them at this price level do) be prepared to get REAL familiar with a welding rig. Ask me how I know. Good luck, my friend! I hope you end up loving Z's as much as we do!

That's really nice work! And you're right, it's a lot of $$$, even if you do the work yourself. Hint** Don't add up your receipts.