AK-Z

You can test if the injectors are working but just running a 9v current through them. you should be able to hear a clicking noise everyttime you run current through them.

Thanx, but I don't think that they would ship to Alaska for free. I thought tabco had full fenders, guess I was wrong.

Whats the tabco website. Are their panels better than the VB versons?

See if it has a bad ground. If not, look at the color of the wire and see if its connected on the fuse bloack to find which fuse it goes to. also check the fuse links and see if the ECU connections are properly seated.

The problem with turboing a N/A engine is that the more boost you put in it will cause more heat. That is why originally turboed engines have lower compression than there N/A versions. The more boost you put in, the more fuel you also have to put in. Fuel is actually used to cool the chambers as well as provide combustion. To much heat and the air/fuel will ignite prematurely and put strain on the moving components. As the N/A version has spark advance reather than spark retard, also the FI engines have have different MAPs for there turbo and non turbo versions. So if you are going to do this hear are some things you need to address. Spark/timing : usually the computer address this. Fuel: Bigger injectors and/or changing the fuel pump to add presure will work. Fuel curve: changing the computer to a aftermarket version or a OEM turbo versionwill work. some other things that you would want to do is use forged pistons if possible. the cast version can only take so much boost

I would try to fine a Vintage Air one. Uses a electric pump instead of the crank, if I recall.

I use slag (residue that is left from arc welding) a bag of it is like $15, good for general striping. Then I use 30/70 or 70/30, I forgot for finer stuff. Just remeber to get a pair of media blasting gloves and a suit, it gets EVERYWHERE.

Looke dup the special edition models. Special Edition Apparently they came in red and black also. and only in 1980. If the you look at the VIN tag on the door jam it should say the production date (using my 280z as a example) it should say something like mounth/year i.e. 1/76 (january/1976)

The special edition version of the 280zx was only sold in black and gold if I remeber correctly. Try to look and see if there is anything different with the VIN. If possible try to look up the records from the VIN. I think $700 is a bit high. I would try to shoot for about $500, b*tch about no maintainence and rust and what not to bagain it down. If he is offering $100-$150 for the engine then I would go for that, any more is a waste of time and money.

Honestly I wouldn't get for a couple of reasons. Its not a complete swap. Not a front clip of the car. (make I.D.ing wires a whole lot easier) Untested for start up . the parts car is more temping but the 81 is what I call a transition model. Nissan tryed to modify a NA engine for forced induction and and basically overlooked the spark retard for timing, so not good for boosting more than about 3 psi then the stock psi. I would only get the engine if you are planning to megasquirt it and if you can get a startup test on it (but no ecu or harness).

From the pic of your dash I am asuming that this is a 280zx. everything looks great. I especially like how you intergated the temp gauge into the steeringwheel. I might want to barrow some ideas when I start to do my 280z:mrgreen:

Sorry got my terms mixed up. When I ment evaporator I ment heat exchanger. I believe the vintage air universal version is going to run about $700.

As I recall the 240 had a different size for struts than the 280. In the VB catelog (only used as refference) they have them listed as different part numbers as well. I could be wrong.

What color is that? I might want to use a variation of that color, maybe a little darker and a little less of a hue.

I hlep put one in my friends galant. it was a pain because it didn't fit right. I don't know what type the window was for (ebay oem), looked like it would fit. We ended up making/welding a channel for it and flush fitting it in. the electronics weren't all that hard to wire up. $350 for labor is a bit high, are they quoting for a certain amount of hours or is that flate rate. installing one would probably take like 2 hours, its all about what tools you have on hand. I would look around and say what one shop quoted, you can baggen it down a bit. Oh also you are probably going to want sto make a new headliner board. the s30 came with a headliner but it was contact cemented dirrectly to the underside of the roof. edit: when did you see if the wheather stripping for the window had wheather sealer on it (glue) most people either forget about it or just don't care when they put it in themselves.

In thought, this would be a good idea, but if you really think about how much clearence from the stock (card board) panel and the position of where you leg would be, that wouldn't give you all that much room to work with. Thats if you're thinking about do something like one of those show cars at CES or something. With these cars I just think that a fiberglass replacement would work best and not go to crazy with the speaks and "add-ons".

check is you have spark by checking ayour connections from cap to plugs, while the engine is running remove the wire from a plug and hold it about 1/2 inche from the plug. if you have spark, you should be about to see a spark arc across to the plug. repeat with the other plugs. if no spark then either the plug needs to be replaced or the rotor/cap needs to be replaced. not really all that expensive, probably about $40.

I don't know what sbc is, I'm assuming it means small block. What I asume that you would need would be the pump, the evaporator, the heater that has the AC component on it and the vent control panel for one that came with AC. The non AC is different then the AC version.

Why not just go to home depot and buy a sheet a plexy for the time being. then you can spend the time looking for glass as well as drive around. I bought my parts car for $400 also. I have spare glass but it won't be avalable till spring, and I don't think you want to pay for shipping from alaska. Anyways shouldn't this thread be in the body and paint section?

I know MSA has hoods, don't know aobut fenders though.

check if the ballist resistor is good. Check if the alternator to battery is good.

Sorry I don't know the name I just changed the hue from a burgendy. Yeah I know. I thought you stopped by at one point, but I was out. The cars are in really rough shape even though the glass is still good. I just asked because I was looking at pictures of the AWD trany and wondering that from the size of the tranfer case that would have a any form of rear/front power transfer.

Since the RB26dett uses a transfer case to transfer the power to the front wheels, can't you just remove the front drive shaft and swap oil pans to have it RWD? is the transfer case a "locked" transfer case or is it a "differencial" type?

I can kind of see the similarities. Just with the quarter window and the tailight plate. The 240z was actually designed, for lack of a better word, after the porsche 911 and the jaguar e-type.