AK-Z

I would say media blast it. Although messy it will at most take like 2 min to get the rust off for sure, but be carefull how long you spray it. You can slao hand sand it but can't garentee that it will remove all rust in the area, but you can just hit it with "rust zero" and it should be fine.

I haven't heard of a fitment problem like that with OEM peices. That post was rpobably reffering to reproduction peices like British Victoria. I haven't had any problems putting on a 260 fender on a 280.

For inspecting the body, I would check a couple of things in particular. Floor boards. just crouch down and look at the floor boards from underneath Trunk sill plate. The part of the trunk panel closest towards you when you open it, both the part on the car and the part on the hatch itself. Rocker panels/door pillar. Tap on the rockers and try to listen for what is metal and what is plastic fill. Since you say the carpet is out you chan check it from the inside. Spare tire compartment. On mine the hatch never sealed properly so it would drop slightly and well up in the spare tire compartment, mine never realy rusted here when water was in here but just mentioning it just in case. All the other things would involve removing the fenders and the cowl next the the windshield.

well remeber that the 170 hp numbers were what was stated 20-30 years ago so it would be more like 150hp. I would say that short of a full rebuild, 200 hp is pushing your expectations. You will problably be able to reach 250hp if you get a valve job, cam, and a aftermarket computer, and have the whole thing tuned. those 20 year old stock computers are crap.

I agree with Phantom. If its all stock then it would be easier and faster for you to have it all done for the most part. If you want performence oriented upgrades then you will have to plan out what you want. I'd say if you plan on doing upgrades after about 6 months then I would go stock for now and upgrade later. For my rule of thumb, upgrades should be done in this order on any car. 1. brakes and tires 2. suspension 3. body stiffening and/or modifications 4. engine All because its alot better for the car to be able to handle the power than just hoping the stock parts will hold up.

Since its on the subject. Does anyone have a input shaft for the turbo dizzy? I got my dizzy from ebay and didn't come with one (was sold in another auction with the oil pump)?

doesn't darius live huston? darius240z

Well I not saying you have to do this but don't you need to swap the differential because the speedo cable/sending unit on the diff on a s15? I resently asked almost the same question in another thread but was stated RB engine with KA/SR tranny. Noone has replied to that one yet though.

Dude that sucks. Good thing you didn't get hurt and that all the damaged pieces are replacable. I wouln't say you crashed, I would just say you hit the curbe trying to avoid a person running a light.I hope your car is structurally straight.

Hmmm.... Wondering if powder coat can go over bondo.

I thought that, that would hurt your clutch. I had a friend with an olde school manual Bug and used the parking brake. One night it was raining and he parked with the hand brake as usual and the next morning the hand brake was stuck, it rusted tight and wouldn't move untill we removed the brake drums and smacked the thing with a sledge hammer. after that he always just put it in gear to park and no problems sinse.

Might be a stupid question, but do you refill your system with coolant or water? the diluted coolant could be what is not letting the smoke have a odder. Whats the humitity down there, could be a factor.

I wouldn't use floss, might as well do the job once and I woulld think that the markered floss would rub off on you hand and on the swade. I don't know if this will work on swade but I do this with leather. measure the wheel and add about 1/2 inche. cut the material and add a little for the spokes, about a an 1 1/2 inche. stitch the ends together about a 1/32 of the circuference if you can. put it on the wheel "roll" the seemed edges. use a "heat gun" to help shrink the material to get the wrinkles out and you start stitching around the wheel. Don't get to close with the gun or you might burn it, its better to take your time. Obviously you can't stitch through the spokes to just complete you stitch at the spoke, roll the edge and continue on the next stitch, and so on.

Doesn't the OBD 1 only give error codes through the engine light? I thought you cna only get the code fromt that and it blinks the code.

I would like to know hope the Arizona Z kit compares to the Modern Motorsports Ltd. 5 lug Cobra kit.

I would use 16 gauge, better safe than sorry. If I bought premade with 24 I would use that instead, just because I wouldn't have to do all that fabbing. With me I would go overboard on stiffening and support under that car. Probably look like a peice of the eiffal tower under the car lol. Ihaven't really started on anything on my car right now and don't intend to untill spring. I just hope I don't over load the chassis when I do get started.

I would like to know the results before I yank out my tranny for a rebuild.

the one that you saw, I assume that it was a 240sx. I beleive that some subarus came with a r200 don't know what ratio though. Try looking for 280zx also on ebay. I have one but I need it to do a swap from a r180 to a r200. there is a sticky somewhere that has most of the models that came with the r200 might want to look.

I was what the headlight covers were made of exactly. I would think that after a while if they were plexi that they would be scratched up. So are they made of lexan or somthing else?

Nice, you shaved the rear turn signal, rear vent, and trim rivets. I was thinking of doing the same thing and using integra turn signals in a custom bumper.

Welcome to the forum. Well I would agree with 5foot2 and just hammer and dolly or use a slide hammer, them bondo, primer, and paint. You are less likely to screw as in measuring and you are using the orignal body panel.

As most of the people on this forum would say "Do a search." I'm Not like that but do sugest doing so. Well there are some things that I could think of from reading some of the other posts that other people had with the same problem. The liquid comeing out of the tail pipe is normal (inless its coming out in a stream) its just condisation building up inside the exhaust. One thing that other people over look with this problem is the electical connections, e.i. the computer reading the signal properly. From my understanding the computer goes into "gimp mode" a preset default setting that goes into affect if the computer can't read the proper signals. Other could be that the temp sensor is goint bad. If it is a coolant leak the smoke should smell sweet like maple syrup. O2 sensor could be goin also. I can't think of other things that could be wrong with the engine, but I would check all the spark plugs and see if they ar running rich.

INteresting discussion. I would like to know if anyone has done a sr/ka tranny swap to a RB engine. Just curious. I would think it would rev faster and the added benifet to the loss in weight sounds good, but I assume you would have to be easy on aceeleration due to the torque numbers being higher on a RB engine to the SR/KA engine.

Well to answer his question. You (obviously) can get 300-400hp out of a Datsun L6, but you would for the most part have to do a rebuild, and from the vagueness of your question, you ouldn't want to go into rebuilding a L6 when to get the same or more HP it would be more reasonable to just do an engine swap with something capable of producing more reliable HP. Easiest way to gain HP on these engines is to either put in bigger/better injectors or going carb setup and also removing th EGR valve.

Well IMO its a matter of the torque numbers you are expecting. A lot of torque in a split second causes things to break. For that the higher the torque the lower the gear ratio so it would be less likely to break something. If your peak torque numbersa are in the upper RPMs then I would worry about it too much, but better safe than sorry. I can't say anything about installing a r230, but it looks like a lot of fab work that is needed.