240Z Turbo

The turbo should have zero thrust play(in-out) and the up/down play should be very small, around 1-2mm Max. If it feels sloppy then it is. Rebuild it now before you ruin it. Have someone with experience verify that it is, indeed, sloppy.

What you meant to say was 20 inches of Mercury(in-mg). Now, in 1st or 2nd gear, hold the throttle wide open to about 4K and see if it made any boost. You will definitely know. Let off as soon as you hit 4K. You need to be sure you have enough fuel.

That is a very nice and clean install you have done. Congrats and you should be very impressed. Now all you need on the passenger side is a monster turbo hanging off the motor.

SCCA, I know the bolt spacing on the caliper is 3.5, but I was wondering the bolt circle radius for the caliper bolts. If I were to measure from the center if the hub to the caliper bolts? Thanks for the 4.030 or 4.060 info.

for the front calipers on a 240Z(73) I know I could measure it, but if anyone knows off the top of their head it would be appreciated. Also, what is the bolt circle on the hub? Man, am I lazy? Sorry, just trying to spend my time getting my car running again today.

lober seperation I believe the n/a is in the 106 range and turbo is in the 109 range. less overlap on a turbo setup so you don't blow it right out the exhaust during overlap. typically less duration is required, 220-230@.050", but they do like lift.

took out the racegate and replaced it with the 60mm HKS GT wastegate. I did this because the turbo's spooled very quick and I suspect I would see unwanted backpressure because the housing were undersized. So, enter mr. HKS 60mm guy! I also ported the stock 20mm hole to about 35mm or so and did some nice smoothing into the wastegate hole. Finally, I cut out the #5 runner because it was angled towards the manifold stud and I couldn't get a wrench on it. I had it come out about 1" before I angled it into the collectors. Before and after shown below: BEFORE AFTER

It is actually not a bad idea and I looked into it before doing my stroker motor. It is not that it will rev any faster, but it gives you the potential to rev higher. I had several conversations with Don Potter regarding this issue. It is kind of funny, the RB26DETT skyline motor has the exact stroke of the 240crank(73.7mm) and the bore of the 280z(86mm) to give a 2.6L motor. It would be intersting to see the results. I would think an 8K motor would be easily doable. Turbo of course!

Well, I removed the flappers because I am running an external wastegate. I will definitely port the holes. Most shop port them from 20mm to 28mm or 314mm^2 to 615mm^2 which is about 98% more area. I will probably take them out to 38mm.

Well, I hate to air dirty laundry, but.... When Sunbelt setup the head they did not set up the valve train correctly. My valves are the Nonturbo valves and are .080" longer than valves for the P90 head. To get around this you must shim the cam towers and redo the lash and rocker arm geometery. Well, I have paid a guy in Houston to do this, ProAm, and they did a good job. When I had Sunbelt port the head they did not reinstall all the shims nor did they setup the rocker arm geometry correctly. Because of this, 9 of 12 rocker arms where pivoting on the edge of the spring retainer. I wondered why my valvetrain was so damn noisy. Someone there knew there was a clearance issue because 2-3 rocker arms where ground on the underside to clear the spring retainers. Needless to say I was pissed when I discovered this and sent the head back to Sunbelt. Jim agreed someone at his shop had screwed up and offered to fix the problem. At that time I decided to spec the TEP cam and after getting back the results I told WebCams to literally throw it into the dumpster. I had WebCams modify their 155 grind. 155 grind I had them take the lobe centers from 109deg to 110.5 deg. You can see the difference between gross duration and duration at .050" is very small, this give you an idea of the quick ramp rate and it seem to work well so far. I will have to get this thing dialed in to really know if it is doing well. Anyway, 3months later Sunbelt returned the head and did a good job.

Well, after letting my buddy Shaun drive the car I noticed the car having boost creep. After about 6200rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear it spikes 20+psi. I used some grip tight pliers and held the wastegate valve completely open and still it spikes. The stock wastegate holes in the turbine housing are 20mm so the total surface area of the two is 2*Pi*r^2=2*3.14159*10mm*10mm=628.318mm^2 Whereas the 42mm Racegate is Pi*r^2=3.14159*21*21=1385.44mm^2 Crap, less than 1/2 the surface are! DOH! Don't you just love being the one to work out all the problems? I will stick them in a mill and open them up. I have not decided if I will go to dual wastegates or just keep the single racegate. I want to be up a running again soon!

I believe he is referring to the ability of the wastegates to flow. You will probably generate excessive backpressure in your manifold if you undersize the wastegates and throw NOS ontop of it. It is along the same lines as oversizing the wastegate so that you can undersize the turbine side a/r and wheel. You want the Wastegate to flow the exhaust instead of the turbo that allows for quicker spoolup. Remember, with the NOS the extra exhaust generated must have someway to exit.

That is the least boost I can run because of the wastegate spring. HOLY MOLY! Can't keep traction under 45mph so it is hard to tell how fast the car is. The 16G's hit very hard and quick and the car pegs 7K rpm too quickly. I think I am blowing through the stall as it hits close to 7K even in 3rd gear. Definitely the car is making much more power at 12psi than it did at 18psi on the old setup. I can tell this by the way it lites the tires up at speed. It used to spin the tires and then stop and now it spins them and keeps spinning them at 45mph. The biggest problem I had with the old setup was that the cam was not properly installed and the car fell on its face at 5800rpm. After Sunbelt installed my new cam and reworked the valve train it is pulling to 7K and not stopping. I guess I am overly impressed after driving my wife's Geo Prizm for 10months! DOH! If anyone is in the Tallahassee area, feel free to come by and I will give you a ride and you can be the judge. I have to admit, I am impressed!

Ahhh, looks as though I have underestimated the power of the SSS510! Those are some nice #'s you are seeing. BTW, what kind of shot are you pumping with the NOS? 125hp?

First I must say the exhaust is loud, but it is my kinda loud. My next door neighbor has a mint Pantera and his is much louder. Well, after bleeding the brakes I took the car out for a little spin. The torque converter felt a bit tight, but I think a day of driving will loosen it up. The car feels like it has good pep off-boost and seems to accelerate nicely with 1/4 throttle. I did gas it in 1st gear and it made 8psi quick. However, because I have not yet tuned it for boost I let off. I should have it running well before weeks end and hitting 17-19psi regularly from the Twin 16G's. I will keep you posted on how it runs with boost.

Z32 N/A had R200 4.09 Viscous LSD(I have one) R200 housing shorter than R200 of pre83 Z Z32 TT had R230 3.7 Viscous LSD From what I was told, the R230 in the Q45 is the same as the Z32TT, 3.7 Viscous LSD

It is boost referenced and you need only to run a -3 or -4 line.

Well, let me just start by saying my car will be ready to fire up tomorrow. I lack putting back my tranny cooler onto the radiator and filling this thing up with Gasoline. So on with my question. I built a custom AL fuel cell and was wondering the requirements for grounding the fuel cell. Can anyone give me specific information that is recommended when installing such a fuel cell. Thanks, I need to get this thing breathing again!

At the same time, the RB26DETT guys are using 90mmTB's and making 1000++++hp

I have yet to make crazy horses, but hope to soon. We figured 365@wheels with my old-old setup(60-1) turbo based on 12.2@121. My last setup was using a T64 turbo and the same 19psi and it only dynoed 311@wheels, but the dyno would only give a reading after 5800rpm. I don't know what it made below 5800rpm, but do know we had to have 2 people sit on the back to keep from spinning the tires. Anyway, enough with my pathetic excuses. Let us look at what TimZ is doing. His short block has been together for many years now using Cunningham Rods and has always ranged in power from 375-431@wheels with Torque always ranging from 380-472ft-lbs@wheels. He is not having any problems. I also had Sunbelt build my motor which they messed up. I will not go into that right now, but it was the reason my car made no power above 5800rpm. They did fix it, but I paid for new rocker arms and it took them over 3months to return it to me after he admitted it was his fault. Anyway, this is all off subject. I do not think a properly setup motor should be replacing bearings and checking bigend bore, especially on lower hp N/A applications. Flattened bearings will occur if you detonate on the motor and run a constand ping. I have seen it 1st hand on my old-old motor. Let me give you some practical experience I have seen with Carillo rods. My buddies Honda has about 200 dyno runs and about 30 track passes and his car makes in excess of 500hp@wheels, 554 to be exact. He also uses Carillo rods with no problems. Man, can I ramble or what? I don't think for a street/strip application you should concern yourself with such things. Hell, Supra guys are making 600-800RWHP all day long and don't have these issues. Just tune it right and you will be fine.

Here is the skinny. I will start by saying I wish I had gotten forged rods. However, the stock l24 rods will handle up to 600hp if raceprepped. I have gotten this information from several sources that include Nissan Motorsports and Mr. Potter. It is not the ideal choice, but they should survive. It is also good to note, the application for surviving at 600hp was road racing which takes much more abuse than a street car. You can get a set of Carillo for as little as $750/6. I still kick myself for not doing so, but I am confident I will have no problems.

Several things to consider. You will want atleast 2000cfm worth of cooling. Typical 16" autozone fans flow 1600cfm, not enough so don't do it. Especially if you are in the south with the heat. Now, you have several choices. Permacool makes a nice fan that flows 2350-2900 depending on whether you run a shroud or not. Your best choice would be a Spal. They make a 16" fan that flows 2320cfm and is very thin, about 3"-3.25"

Actually, it is a 66.7mm TB and it came on an earlier V8 mercedes. I am not sure about the year, but most likely in the early-mid 80's.

Is that what they call a shameless plug? I like it though, reminds me of the late night infomercials.

Sorry, Cam=camshaft