240Z Turbo

My take is this. I currently have it from the back of the block on the drivers side(1/2" NPT) to the turbo and then to the front of the block on the passengers side. The bad thing with running it back to the passengers side is rerouting heated water through the engine again. I am about to route it back to the radiator after the thermostat. So the new routing is from the back of the block drivers side to the turbo and then to the radiator where it can be cooled before returning to the engine.

NO, your fan options are the Permacool 16" which flows about 2900cfm or the Thin Spal that flows 2350. Both should be adequate and will fit.

Joel, call me tonight. Yes cam timing can/will affect idle vacuum depending on the degree to which you adjust it. However, you will be hard pressed to correlate idle vacuum to cam timing. That cam timing will require a degree wheel and a dial indicator.

Well, I had a chance to stay with TimZ this past weekend as I was in Detroit visiting Owens Corning. So let me cut to the chase...his car! As some know, Tim recently had his car repainted white, new rims and the addition of flares. The car is definitely and I catcher as I discovered while driving it, having several people commenting and chasing me around. As expected, the car was very quick, but having a turbo car I knew what to expect. I have to say that just as impressive was the handling of the car. Tim pulled some hairy turns at high speed and the car stuck like glue to the pavement. All in all it was a fun weekend, except saturday from 9am-4pm(HEHE)! HaNgOvEr! Thanks again Tim for the hospitality and for letting me drive your AWESOME car. BTW, I found myself going to his garage frequently just to stare at the engine setup!

He has a fully built race motor with 7.4:1 compression. He runs a T64 turbo (o-trim .69 a/r). Monster GT wastegate and 70lb injectors. He runs 24psi on pumpgas(94octane) and generates those numbers. I suspect with race gas/boost/timing changes that thing might make 490hp@wheels. HEHE, I am going on a trip to Detroit this week and will visit Tim on Friday/saturday. Can't wait to ride in, I mean drive his car!

You need to run a 4N71B as it will bolt up to your engine and requires no adapter plate. Also, it will handle up to 500hp in a 240Z with stock OEM bands and clutches. Valve body mods are required, but it is easy. I run this tranny in my twinturbo 240Z and have no problems at all under 19psi of boost.

Do you mean ole TimZ? 431hp & 472ft-lbs @ wheels! TimZ's PICS

Brakes: I redid the rear brakes with new OEM Tociko actuators, new aluminum drums and new shoes. The front I redid with SCCAs billet 4piston setup and the 11.3"x.81 rotors. I also made new SS lines for the front. I have only driven a few miles to seat the new pads and it seems to be working well. The pedal is not as soft as I thought since I have 4x1.75" pistons up front. I did notice that after a point in the pedal that the brakes start to really bite hard and it stops well. Suspension: I took out both the front and rear suspensions completely and had them sandblasted and powdercoated. In the front I place all new urethane bushings, bumpstops and new Tociko blues. I also cut the spring perch and moved up the front 5/8" while still using the Tociko performance spring. In the rear I put all new urethane bushings on both the inner/outer control arms and moved up the spring perch 2.25" will a cutdown 2+2 springs. Also, new bumpstops and Tociko blues. I also rebuilt the CVs and placed new seals in the diff along with some Amsoil synthetic gear lube(75W-90). The back sits up a bit high, but I kinda like the ground clearance I now have. So, the car drives like my wifes new Protege 5. I hit bumps and it no longer feels as if the car is going to explode. The difference is just awesome and maybe I can finally enjoy driving my car!

yes, the steering rod slides over the splined piece on your steering rack. If it is a 240 rack, it should not have 1 bolt on either side of it. The 280Z rack has a bolt on either side of the splined nub sticking out of the rack.

My 240 rack was bad and I picked up a rebuilt rack from a 280z for $40. All that was required was to purchase Urethane rack bushings for a 74-78Z. It all bolted up with no problems. Also, the rack diameter is the same, but the bushings for the 280Z are .200" wider.

The IC is still for sale. I just got my new IC last week and will try to get it installed soon!

Ha, I can beat that! 28deg timing at 15psi on 93 octane. At 10-11psi I was seeing intake temps about 12deg above ambient at the top of 3rd gear(automatic). I would hope on a 90deg day I would not see over 115F intake temps.

Scottie, don't do it! Your car will explode because of all the american CRAP on it! HEHE! So, the 4140HT is cheap and I can do it for you....However, I think the chevy hub is preferable! Let me know!

I have denso injectors and it is a simple thing drill the holes. You will need to get o-rings from a late model Honda and I believe you must drill the holes 11mm. Put a chamfer on the hole and you are set. Make sure the hole is very smooth which can be achieved by using a reamer after drilling.

I can get you a trust single turbo header for about $1500 new. It is designed to use a Mitsu TDO6 or TDO7 turbo.

Here is the skinny on how to do the swap. Why people to not use the VLSD is because the input shafts on that unit are unique to it. So, the input shaft from Pre-89 R200 in the Z's won't fit into this unit. What to do? You MUST use the VLSD input shafts which uses a race/cage design on that side. I then used the AMC Eagle 6cyl front shaft and its race which was compatible with the cage on the VLSD. Now on the outer part of the shaft it uses a tripod design as the outer 280zxt stuff. I used the tripod from the AMC Eagle 6cyl and the housing from the 280zxt and it was a match. This allowed me to use the 280zxt companion flanges. Now, the shafts are about 13" long which makes the drivers side a direct boltup. I had to make a 3/8" thick spacer for the passengers side to take up some slack as the shaft was slightly too short. Very easy and the VLSD works well and is very smooth/quiet.

I pretty much solved it!

Are you sure you spent your money on the right part of the car? HEHE! I like the sidepipes. The wheels look nice if I squint my eyes and imagine the car is all one color!

Also, Kooks Headers in New York sells .065"wall 1.75"(OD) SS bends for about $24/bend. 304SS will be fine for your app, just make sure to brace it to the block for support.

Russell, I have more header pics, but I need to search for them. I believe they are on my home computer. Hope this helps! Any new Info regarding our software conversation? Header PICS Folder My Turbo Header PICS

In the same torqueing sequence specified retorque the bolts as follows: 1) Unscrew the head bolt about 1/4-1/2 turn until it feels slightly free'd up. 2) Retorque the head bolt back to the 65ft-lbs. 3) Move to next head bolt in the torqueing sequence. You should find that the head bolt will have move past its original position. You can place a small mark on it before untorqueing/retorqueing. I always retorque and it shouldn't hurt anything.

Difficult Viscous diff? Hey, I run the 3.7 Viscous unit in my 240Z! Difficult, not very! Just several hours of looking through shaft books and whala....front shaft from AMC Eagle 6cyl AWD! HEHE!

man, forgot to check this post. To cut the hole, place masking tape on the area in question to prevent scratching of the paint and chipping along the cut edge. Now, trace with pen the area you want to cut. I then drilled a hole with a sheet metal bit in order to get the jigsaw blade in there. My neighbor has a nice (very expensive) saw that I borrowed with some new bits. Get a blade designed for thin metal and it cuts very nicely. It will not warp, snag or distort if done properly. Took about 45min start-finish taking my sweet time (drinking a beer)! The slot in front routes air over the intercooler straight to the radiator. I am going to build a CF duct below the surface with carbon fiber trim along the outside edge. It does not need a scoop as air will be forced in when driving since the slot is on the angle of the hood. A WRX scoop will not work directly as the front of the hood has plenty of contour in the middle. A hand fabbed piece is required.

Thanks for the reply, Mike(SCCA) you do have a good memory!