240Z Turbo

I have done 2 things to lower the temperature of the engine and to provide better cooling. The 1st was to intall a vent over the turbo setup. I purchased a Stainless Steel Vent from a boat supplier for $20 and riveted it to the hood. You can see the heat escaping when at a light. The next was to cut a slot above the intercooler so fresh air can make its way to the radiator. I will make ducting soon to further increase radiator flow.

No comment! HEHE!

I have done this swap and here are a few areas to deal with. Do not use the 88-89 Conquest tranny as it requires further mods than stated. Trust me, this is the trans I used. Use the 83-87 Starion unit. The tranny internals are different as the drums on the turbo cars hold more clutches. I suppose you could swap guts from the starion tranny to the maxima tranny. Also, I had to COMPLETELY cut out the old tranny mount from the tunnel as this auto is much bigger. You will also be required to do some valve body mods which consists of drilling some holes and shimming some springs. The converter designation is a DA-8 listed in the Daaco catalog. I had Protorque build me a custom 9.5" converter. You must fab your own tranny mount and have a driveshaft shortened. I used the conquest shaft in my car and modded it to fit the R200 flange. You CANNOT beat the auto off the line with a good stall for a street car. At 1/3 throttle off the line I was destroying a supped up Moosetang Cobra. Just too easy and no driving skill necessary. With stock OEM clutches on the rebuild and valve body mods the tranny is supposed to handle 500hp in a 240Z. With the stock(tight) maxima converter I chirped the tires going into 3rd gear at 90mph. Just don't be drinking coffee when this thing shifts gears....BAMM! With a tight converter it chirps the tires on the 1-2. HEHE!

Anyone have the specs on the hole in the center of a 240Z front rotor? Thanks in advance.

ZF, you have some issues that may be affecting spoolup. 1st off, just because it takes longer to reach full boost does not mean that you are not making more power at part boost than you were with the smaller turbo. HUH? Anyway, my 60-1 reached full boost about 4300rpm and TimZ's T64 is in the 4300rpm range as well. Who sized up the turbine side of that turbo? It could be that you need a smaller A/R on the hot side which will allow you to spool up faster. Can you give us the A/R for the turbine housing. BTW, what is a 60-trim compressor housing? Do you mean 60-trim compressor wheel?

I have been battling belt slippage problems under full rpm and it is pissing me off. Does anyone besides Arizona Z car make pulleys for the L6 to run a serpentine belt? Thanks, any info is apprectiated!

The electromotive rail is $12/ft and is hard to beat quality and price. The inline pump will depend on what type of power you are wanting to make an whether it is for a carb/EFI application.

Tom, I feel your pain. I run the same damn radiator and have been battling cooling problems as well. I have a greater disadvantage in that I have a 5.5" thick intercooler sitting in front of my radiator blocking all the air to it. You will be hard pressed to outflow the stock mechanical fan and most electric fans are not up to task. You will need 2200cfm+ to cool you system. I would put the stock mechanical fan back on and run the electrical jobber as a pusher fan. I am not sure if I am too enthused with the performance of the chevy 24"x19" griffin radiator. Some run it with no problem, but I have battled with it from day 1. TimZ is sending me his old single core Ron Davis unit to try out as it should have better efficiency, but lower capacity. Anyway, I now run the mechanical fan with the permacool as a pusher and it runs rock solid at 180deg. I also cut a large slot in my hood above my intercooler to route cold air to the radiator. The things you will do for power!

Thank you for the response. It is now hooked up and running very well. Lights are much brighter and fan is running like it should. May be a partial source for the car running hot. The swap was cake and took about 1hr while drinking a beer and verifying all the wires. I used the powermaster 8002 100Amp jobber and you do not have to jack with the voltage regulator stuff if you are gonna run it as a single wire alternator. Anyway, 1 more problem fixed!

I just received my Delco Remy 104A alternator and want to put this badboy on the car. There are 2 connectors on the backside of the alternator. Which one does what? Also, I have seen the conversion for external regulation to internal for the later 280Z, but is there a specific site for converting the 73 240Z to internal regulation. Any help is appreciated!

donuts I have one of their catalogs and they sell mild steel 2.5"(16G) for $29.45 and SS 2.5"(16G) for $58.90. Different sizes vary in price accordingly.

Damn car has been running a tad hot and I noticed bubbling in block and when car is not running it Burps on occasion sending coolant shooting out of the radiator. I do not have the heater stuff hooked up, so the back of the head is plugged. I could not find any literature that says you must run the line from the front of the block to the back of the the head to remove any air pockets. Anyone have any info on this or does it simply work itself out?

It is from a Local source and is an OEM Tokico jobber. It is brand new and not rebuilt as I found out today. I was given a good price as my buddy works there!

Gobble-Gobble-Gobble! What was that Scottie???? Gobble-Gobble-Gobble! Ohhhhh, now I understand you! I wondered why you had only 3 toes!

I use 2.5" to intercooler and 3" to TB. For most apps you can just run all 2.25". That is sufficient to flow the #'s you want and will not cause any problems for you. Don't try to read too much into determining the correct pipe size. Just do what is shown to work so 2.25" for everything will be fine.

O the joy! Car is now running again and working like a charm. It is a steady 10psi and hitting damn hard. I hope to run in Gainesvill in 3 weeks to see what she has and to put an asswhippin on Scottie GNZ. I have to get my converter tightened up or it will be a waste of time. TimZ, you forgot to mention that on the bottom of the diaphragm and on the top, there are 2 ports each side for boost reference. It might help to plug up the side I am not using with a 1/8" NPT plug. DOH! I was never opening the wastegate because the boost reference was being blown out the open hole!

You don't just want to keep taking out timing until you ended up at 8 deg. I would not go below 18deg and I run about 24-26deg on my setup. Keep it in the 18-20deg range and add more fuel until pinging stops.

SCCA, Yes the spacer can be used, but it would have to be bored out about .065" on the diameter. If you remove the spacer it fits right in. This would only require that you slot the holes and shorten the rod some. What I have done was very easy and took all of 2hrs total. The advantage it gives you is a much cleaner look and allows you to have the casing chromed or powder coated. I would have just slotted the holes, but I had no good method for slotting them besides using a grinder which would look like dung. I can tell you this, the pedal hardly moves now. I will try it out tomorrow when the car is running again and give a comparison over the 7/8 one I was using.

I purchased the 17/16 bore 89-91 brake master cylinder today for $89. It was not too difficult to make it work. I decided to do it right so I disassembled my brake booster. Don't bother trying to screw it off as designed. The rubber prevents this. I bent back all the tabs with nice pliers and then removed the halves. With the bare cover I then drill through the studs from the backside and pulled them off with pliers. Took it this morning and had the holes welded up solid and then ground off on the outside. I then took the new master cylinder and created the new hole marks. The are about 1/8" further inward. Drilled and tapped them 5/16-18 and put bolts in from the backside. I welded the bolt in from the backside so it would not come out and to maintain a vacuum seal. I then had it powdercoated black which only took about 1hr. Now, before I powder coated it, with the guts removed I attached the 2 halves back together and used a screwdriver hammer to knock the tabs back into place. When reassembling, I used Dow Corning 'High Vacuum Grease' on all the rubber seals and this also allows you to screw the base to the front cover without the rubber seal sticking. I had to shorten the rod for the master cylinder, but no big deal. The cylinder bolts directly to the booster and does not use the spacer. BTW, I have a 73 Booster.

Why am I so Smart?

I will probably have time at the finish line to get out and record you crossing! Yooz goin down sucka!

You don't usually try and catch someone when you are already ahead. I'll be lookin' for you in my rear view mirror. When we race I will have my video camera facing the rear so I can catch the expression of disbelief as you are getting whipped! HEHE!

SCCA, this is what I have found. Master Cylinder bore size: 84-1/89NA & Turbo = 15/16" 2/89-8/91NA & 6/89-1/91 Turbo = 1 1/16" 7/90-1/91 = 1 1/16" 9/91-96NA & 2/91-96 Turbo = 1" Kyle(Godzilla) of Zdriver.com uses the 91+ 1" master cylinder on his Wilwood(Arizona Zcar) conversion. Yes, the bolt pattern is 90deg from the 240Z bolt pattern, Horizontal as opposed to Verticle. My brake booster has a plate that can be removed so that I can use either horizontal or vertical bolt pattern. All that is required is that you bore out the holes slightly for it to fit. I can machine a spacer if necessary. Also the fittings are on the engine side of the cylinder as oppossed to being on the bottom. Hell, for $89 and it is a Jap part this is not bad. BTW, SCCA I have pondered your brake stuff, but being a cheap I can't spend the money on the spacers knowing I have full access to a lathe and free material. I think I want to use the smaller thickness, .81 rotors and the 2800 calipers. I don't road race and think for drag/street apps it is more than enough.

So I go into Eastern Imports(local shop) to look at brake boosters and the 89-91 use a 17/16 mastercylinder and it is made by Tokiko(SP) and is $89. I know people say you loose pedal feel, but I do not road race my car and just want as much stopping force as possible. I am in the process of deciding what brakes to use, Wilwood, SCCA's Outlaw or Stock Z32 stuff. I have heard this master cylinder has some internal proporting valve and I do not want to proportion the brake twice. Does anyone have any information regarding any of this?