Cannonball89

Yea I watched your video on the MS section but didn't comment because I'm not sure if your problem is related to the slop in your distributor or not. I know I have some slop in my distributor too, if I take the cap off and wiggle the rotor it has some deflection, but really I don't think mine is that much different than yours. I'm pretty sure that if I had enough slop to cause +/- 8-12 degrees timing change, that I would have blown my motor up by now. I mean at 21PSI of boost (the max I was running last year) MS was commanding 18 degrees of advance. If that timing had been able to change to 26-30 degrees of advance, at 12.5 AFR, I'm not sure that things would not have gone boom. I'm kind of wondering if maybe it has something to do with the wasted spark system? I don't really know much about the wasted spark MS setups, but I would assume that you are running EDIS-6? If so is there anything internal to EDIS-6 separate from MS that may cause a timing change?

Are you looking at the actual spark advance in Tunerstudio, and not just looking at where it should be according to your table? I ask because there are ways to advance/retard timing based on IAT or CLT temperature or afterstart conditions. I'm not sure if it matters, but your trigger angle is high. Mine is set to 59.5, which is almost a whole revolution of the dizzy back from where yours is set. Granted you have a different trigger wheel than the stock one I am using. I've also heard of the damper/crank pulley slipping as the rubber ages, which can cause your timing marks to move, but I would think this would only be a problem under heavy load, not at idle as I presume these readings were taken at. Other than that stuff, the only things I can think of is either the whole distributor moving, which you said it is not, or the trigger wheel itself spinning, which is not likely because it has a D slot in the center.

I wasn't able to talk to him until this morning, but he said that it the slip yoke on my 280zx driveshaft isn't machined with a place for the Circlips to sit, so I'm ordering a new slip yoke. It's part number 1203-26S from PTI. In the future I'm going to have a driveshaft made with 1310 U-Joints, I think I know where to get all the parts I need. I will start a thread detailing that when it starts to happen.

If you have a U.S. Z then your fat butt is sitting on the left hand side of the car, hence reducing body roll on left hand corners, and increasing it on right hand corners, yeilding unequal G's. Most magazine tests use the average of the two numbers. For an S30 the control arms, TC rods, and steering knuckes should be be the same length, but i have no idea what kind of car you have.

Oh ok. A Ford mechanic told me that the Mustang master cylinder will stop squirting fluid out when bled properly. I guess I've never taken the filter screens out of my Z master cylinder when pumping the pedal. Anyway I guess the squirting in my dad's Mustang is normal then? I don't know. We are having a really hard time bleeding his brakes.

No, Fluid squirting up out of the resevoir when pumping the pedal is an almost definite indication of air being in the system somewhere. Glad you got it fixed.

I got the Spicer U-Joints in the other day, so this morning I took them to my local transmission repair shop, which is a pretty neat, old fashioned machine shop. But anyways, it turns out that the slip yoke for the transmission got twisted as well so I need to replace that piece too Fortunately I have the driveshaft off of the 280zx that I sourced my engine and transmission from, so I'm hoping that we can remove the staked-in U-Joints from that shaft and take the slip yoke off of it to adapt to my driveshaft. As long as that slip yoke isn't worn inside the journals for the U-Joints, it should work. I'll find out tomorrow morning.

Don't do it! I removed the EVAP system on my 240z when I switched to EFI by drilling a hole in the top of the filler cap and running an overboard dump tube down to the ground "just in case". It actually wasn't working before that, and it's a miracle that the pump wasn't cavitating constantly. Well, If you fill her up to above 3/4 tank, you run the risk of fuel spewing out both the overboard dump tube and the side of the rear quarter panel under the gas cap as the fuel heats up after running the engine for a while. Never underestimate the rate at which gasoline expands when heated! Think about it, gasoline stored in underground tanks is probably around 50*F on most summer days. After being circulated through your fuel system with a hot engine, it is going to soak to around 100*F minimum. So the risk a fire and brimstone is the most obvious reason not to do what I have done, and am going to undo shortly, but there are other side effects. The constant stench of raw fuel is the second worst. I should add that the primary reason I am not running an EVAP system is because for some odd reason, my car came with a non-emmissions gas tank which does not have provisions to properly run the factory EVAP system. I'm hoping to find a regualar 240z gas tank at Carlisle Import Nationals this year and adapt the factory setup to my L28ET.

I put a boost gauge and an AFR gauge where the radio used to be. It is easy to cut out a plate, and then drill two 2" holes for each gauge, plus two small holes for the mounting screws to go through. It looks pretty clean. As far as mounting it where the clock goes, there is a captive nut up inside the dash that the clock bracket mounted too, you just have to fabricate some way to secure the boost gauge using that captive nut, or maybe even take apart the clock and mount the boost gauge inside the metal back cover of the clock or something.

I'm assuming that you bench bled the master cylinder? If not, try that first. A stock master cylinder will be a little squishier with big disk brakes, but it will still stop you without having to pump up the pedal 2 or 3 times.

Looks like the exhaust shop lowered the exhaust system quite a bit underneath the differential compared to what it was at with the old system. I hope you don't drag. In Maryland the curbs in neighborhoods are required to be 12" above the main road level, so I had a hard time getting my 3" exhaust to fit without dragging when turning into my driveway, but the exhaust right now is hugging the differential pretty tight, and that is the only way to prevent it from dragging. I know you have a 2.5" system, but still that sag below the differential is reason for concern for me. On a side note, you have an excellent header, why not let people hear it? The only thing I liked better about my car when it had an L24, SU carbs, and header than I do now with my L28ET was the sounds it made! That chambered muffler in combination with the resonator is surely killing all of those Uber-sexy sound waves! Just my opinion, but an uncorked L6 is a sexy beast.

Yea, that's a good point. I'm not sure if they are still good or not, definitly better than the ujoints in the driveshaft though. I have some clunking in the rear, not sure if it is from the ujoints or just slop in the differential though. Ill check them out a little further before I replace them.

I just ordered two of the Spicer 5-1501X joints. Spicer seems to have a very good reputation. Almost every forum I've snooped around on seems to recommend them, especially the offroading forums. In spite of the grease fittings, I'm hoping they hold up better. I'm probably going to replace the U-Joints in my half-shafts at the same time, and I'll report back some results after the next time I go to the track.

Well he wasn't sure exactly. Apparently nobody ever buys those joints lol. Im going to do some more research and PM a couple more knowledgable people.

Well I just talked to Jmortenson. Turns out that the Spicer U-Joints are actually greasable.

Ok, so after researching for several hours, I found out that the U-Joints that were put in my driveshaft were manufactured by a company called PTI. I can't really find out much information about them, but the part # is 1251-22. The two alternatives I am looking at are either a Spicer or a Neapco. Spicer # 5-1501X, a solid, non-greasable U-Joint EDIT: Most companies selling this advertise it as a non-greasable U-Joint, but it actually does have a grease fitting in the cross. Jmortenson confirmed that for me today and corrected M2 Differentials web page, but every other vendor I've seen still lists it as non-greasable. or Neapco # 1-0027, a greasable U-Joint For the record, the size to look for on the driveshaft U-Joints are: Bearing cap Diameter of 0.985"/0.984" (I give these two numbers because the Spicer part advertises it at 0.984" and the Neapco part is advertised at 0.985") Yoke Lock up of 1.736"/1.734" (again, Spicer is at 1.734" while Neapco is at 1.736", both listed as a Datsun application, and both cross reference to the PTI Joints I currently have) Unfortunately Neapco does not make the right size U-Joint for the driveshaft in the Bruteforce variety. You can get the U-Joints for the Halfshafts in Bruteforce, which is part # 1-0029BF, but they don't make a 1-0027BF. So I am leaning towards the Spicer right now, your thoughts? I like the non-greasable design of the Spicer, but am a little concerned about the bearing diameter being 1 thousands of an inch less than the Neapco.

Yea when it happened the list of possible things that could have gone wrong went: 1. Halfshaft U-Joints, 2. Clutch 3. Side/Stub Axle 4. Driveshaft U-Joints. My clutch is just a stock Turbo L28ET clutch, I only used some sandpaper to take the glaze off of the disk when I installed it, but apparently it is plenty strong. I think the next time I go to the track I will do my first pass without doing a burnout just to see how well it hooks. I had 18PSI in the tires when I broke the driveshaft U-Joints, I might bump it up to 20 or 22PSI next time to be on the safe side.

The last time I was at the track with it, I only managed a 13.4, but the MPH was at 114, so with traction I should be deep in the 12's. So I bought those 555R drag radials and was hoping to get an easy 12 second pass but it turns out that the tires were sticky enough to break the ujoints before I even did a burnout lol. And unfortuneatly that area is becoming more built up now. Some idiots decided to build houses right next to a racetrack and now they complain about noise.

Yep, I was at 75-80. Capital is way nicer, but 75-80 has a lot closer for me. Do you remember the go-kart track that used to be next door to the dragstrip? (Well, it still is there, but is overgrown with weeds now lol). I was one of those kids screaming around with a hot-rodded Briggs and Stratton before they closed it down He-He. I'm kind of new to the drag racing scene. I have mainly raced on road courses and ovals during my short life. Drag racing is a less stressful type of motorsport for me at least, if I'm not breaking stuff lol. I'm going to look into the manufacturer of the U-Joints.

Yes, I am using the T5 that came on the Turbo 280ZX's, and there is not really any way to adapt that transmission to an R180 without a custom shaft being made. As for the brand, all that I can find on the U-Joints are the stampings DN NP 2 and also a stamping of what looks like a crown. The U-Joints were provided by Powertrain Industries, who made the shaft for me. I will probably call them next week to ask them which brand they used, so that I know to avoid it. Here is the link to the part # for the U-Joints that Powertrain used in my shaft: https://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs_type.htm?type=UJoints&filter_string=&filter_key=part_number&filter_val=1251-22 Those of you putting a T5 in a 240z, Powertrain made me a good quality shaft as far as the workmanship is concerned, but the U-Joints are definitely suspect.

I experienced a complete failure of both U-Joints in my driveshaft today at the dragstrip. As soon as I pulled through the water, brought the revs up, and popped the clutch to start the burnout, I hear this awful racket and the whole car is shaking, and then suddenly it stops and I'm just bouncing off the rev limiter. I quickly found that the car wouldn't move, and when I got out, the driveshaft was laying on the ground. Great way to start out the year at the track right? Here are the conditions surrounding the failure: 1. I was using very sticky drag radials, Nitto 555R's 2. The burnout box was VERY sticky. They must have just sprayed VHT all over it, because when I got out of the car my sneakers were almost getting pulled off of my feet when I lifted them off the pavement. 3. My car is probably making well over 300 lb/ft of torque at the wheels. (dynoed at 280 lb/ft at 12PSI, currently running about 17PSI) Now I was really suprised that this happened. My driveshaft is almost brand new, custom made for my turbo swap about a year ago, and has only about 3000 miles on it, and only about 5 1/4 mile passes, although a lot of aggressive street driving. I really would have thought that the 40+ year old U-Joints in the half-shafts would have been the first to break, not the almost new ones in my driveshaft. I'm really kind of concerned because this happened with an open R180, and very soon I will have a Torsen LSD R180 from an STI in the car, which will probably stress the driveshaft even more. I don't really know a lot about U-Joints, so I'm hoping some of you can give your insight. I think that the primary reason for failure was because my driveshaft was made with greasable U-Joints, which have a very large (approximately 1/4" diameter) hole in them for the grease to go through. I am hoping that buying solid U-Joints will solve my problem. Here are some pictures of the failures. What do you guys think? Buy solid, non-greasable U-Joints, or do you think I am just making too much power for these small U-Joints?

That's interesting. I will have to double check my IAT calibration values.

I thought Megasquirt firmwares were all defaulted to the GM CLT and IAT sensors to begin with?

I don't think so... Not with any stock L-series head that I'm aware of anyway. The exhaust ports are in completely different arrangements, and are more oval shaped I think on most RB heads. Plus the bolt pattern is way different. Whatever site you saw this crap on is way off... unless There is some RB head that is closer to the style of the L-series head that I'm not aware of or vice-versa.

My LC1 turned out to be junk. I had to a similar problem as what your having. It would just read full lean all the time. Search for my thread "innovate LC1 giving me headaches". Mobythevan said that it is pretty common for more recently made LC1 units to be defective out of the box. Sounds like an issue with low voltage during cranking or something. Hopefully this isn't what your situation is, but I basically had to suck it up and buy a different brand. My AEM has been working great so far.