Cannonball89

Yea mine is bolted directly to the front cover, no spacer like the earlier dizzies. There is a gasket that goes between the dizzie and the cover to prevent oil from leaking around it. I got the gasket from MSA IIRC.

Yea if the injectors are opening you should be able to hear a pretty loud "click click click" when cranking. It wouldn't hurt to check the voltage at the injector connectors though. A tired battery might not have the juice to fully open the injectors, especially after prolonged cranking. Just for fun, lay a spark plug on the valve cover and crank it. You should be able to see a spark (you might need to be in a garage with the lights out though). Just because you have power to the coil doesn't mean that it is sending spark to the plugs. A neat little trick I used when I was getting my 280zx running was to disconnect the fuel pump so the fuel rail stayed dry, and lay all six spark plugs on the valve cover, using tape to hold them. I then pulled the distributor out of the engine, and leaving everything hooked up and the key in the "on" position, I turned the distributor by hand and could see all six plugs sparking and hear the injectors clicking clearly. This is a pretty simple way to ensure that everything is working properly.

Download the FSM here http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html That will give you instructions for all the pin-test diagnostics. Check to make sure you have spark too. If you have no spark and the injectors are not opening then your CAS probably isn't sending a signal to the ECU. Make sure your ECU has power when cranking too. And of course poor grounding could be the culprit too.

You could have some custom pistons made with a dish that is only cut out under the valves in the cylinder head, leaving it flat under the quench area. This would give you the option of lowering the C/R to whatever you want based on the volume of the dish without losing the advantage of the large quench area.

I found this great article on Miata.net that goes into great detail on all of Meguiar's car care products. Here is the link to the original article: http://www.miata.net/garage/meguiars.htm Enjoy

I also have 280zx rear calipers on my 240z. I ran rubber brake lines all of last summer and never noticed a problem. I just put stainless lines on and haven't noticed them hitting the bracket yet with those either. I think the way you index the hoses in thethe L bracket has a big effect on how they sit. I could see where they might rub if indexed improperly. The only problem im having with them is the parking brake cables themselves hit the frame when the rear suspension compresses to near full bump. I had to make custom brackets to adapt the stock parking brake cables but unfortunately I made them too tall. So try re-indexing the brakelines and see if it helps. It is a very tight fit but it works for me , so far anyway.

Hmm I never thought about importing from japan... something to look into. As far as 15" wheels, im afraid that in the future 15" wheels will be the new 14", getting phased out as even economy cars today come standard with 16" or bigger. As long as cars keep getting heavier, wheels will keep getting larger to house the huge brakes they "need". I just think that the world would be a better place with small wheels. But my utopian vision of the automotive world is far from the current reality

what I would have done would have been to either give it to him or sell it to him (for cash) without posting it on a public forum for all the world to see, and then vigorously deny an allegation that I had given or sold it to him.

I am making this post to try to get a whole bunch of you guys to comment and hopefully get this thread big enough to convince more tire companies to make performance tires in 14" sizes. I am frustrated with the limited number of options out there for stock 14" wheels. I would be fine with buying some 16" or 17" wheels to open up my options, but my list of grievances are as follows: 1. Weight, bigger wheels weigh more. A lot more in some cases. Not only is that weight unsprung, but it is rotational. The bane of performance. 2. More expensive tires, almost double the price for a 17" performance tire vs. a 14". Not to mention the cost of the big wheels themselves. 3. In my opinion, big wheels look funny on cars, especially small cars like S30's. It just makes them look like Hot-Wheels to me. (sorry if that offends you). 4. Low profile tires are not an absolute must for good handling. They certainly are not ideal for a street car on rough roads, and even at the track, you can tune cars to do quite well with flimsy sidewall tire (look at NASCAR stock cars, for example). I know that Nitto, Toyo, BFGoodrich, and some other companies still make them, but the list is dwindling. For example, Nitto just recently stopped making the 555R in 14", leaving the NT01 as their only option. So If you share my views please comment below, maybe we can convince some tire companies that the 14" market is not dead.

If your power to MS is through the accesory relay, then your not going to get power on the "start" setting no matter what. Power must come from something like the coil +

Saab also had a V4 in their Sonnets, some were even two -stroke I think. This engine would not be nearly as powerful as the L6 though. More appropriate would be Ducati's Desmosedici V4, around 200HP. But like stated above, these engines would be so far behind the front axle line that handling would be thrown way off without substantial modifications.

Generally the higher your compression, the more engine braking. If is so severe that it begins to lock up the rear tires, learn to heel & toe downshift. It is a good skill regardless.

For those looking for adapters, I have tirelessly scoured the web in search of those hard to find adapters to fit adjustable proportioning valves to our cars. After finding these adapters, I did what the Beer man did, made custom lines with one metric end and the other to fit the valve. But for those looking for adapters, here is what I have found (mostly this sites archives): http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=&parentid=&stocknumber=14-76255 http://www.brakequip.com/mfthread.html

Here is some more T5 info, and also where I learned about Powertrain Industries: http://datsunzgarage.com/borg/

The problem with the Turbo T5 driveshaft is that it necks down at the flange, and the tubing is thicker in the middle. I have no idea why is was made this way, but the driveshaft shop I took it to told me that there was no way to shorten it and keep it balanced because they would have to cut it in the middle rather than right up against the flange. This shop may have been full of B.S. but anyway I decided to have a custom shaft made. This brought up another problem. The Nissan T5 has a very strange slip yoke. It is a 26/24 spline, with a 1.375 seal diameter and 1.115 spline diameter. Some people have said in other threads on here that it is not available and you have to get a yoke with a 1.5 seal and machine it down, but I managed to find one company, Powertrain Industries, that sells it. Powertrain made me an entirely custom driveshaft to mate my Nissan T5 to a stock 240z R180 for a very reasonable price. They also have the flanges that bolt to the differentials for every Nissan differential available too. Here is a link to the slip yoke that goes into the Nissan T5: https://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs_type.htm?type=Transmission%20Yokes&filter_string=a%3A1%3A{s%3A11%3A%22part_number%22%3Bs%3A8%3A%221203-26S%22%3B}&filter_key=part_number&filter_val=1203-26S

If you search around (I can't remember if it was on this site or another, maybe a mazda site) There is a guy who I think was doing tractor pulls who simply welded the eccentric shafts of two 13b motors together and had the motors mounted one in front of the other. But since the 13b has it's firing order phased 180 degrees apart, you would have to mount one engine "on it's side" in order to recreate the 90 degrees of seperation between ignition events that true four rotors have. It would certainly be an interesting project. You can also buy four rotor eccentric shafts for around $5000 USD last time I checked. I wouldn't want to put a four rotor in a Z for personal reasons that may sound stupid to some of you. I just think that the L6 engines have their own unique and awesome sound (especially in N/A form with headers) and have enough potential power with proper modifications to the cylinder head and camshaft etc. that I couldn't see putting anything else into a Z. If I was going to do a four rotor it would have to be into either some kind of Mazda, or into a prototype-style racecar that I would design from the ground up (another one of my dreams).

"Kinda neat"??? It's flippin awesome dude lol. Four rotors are amazing. And the stand-off injectors are just icing on the cake. When I have accumulated a comfortable amount of wealth I plan on building one some day. I just don't know what kind of car I want to put it into...

Are you sure that your fittings on your air compressor are sound? That could be the source of your slow leak at this point.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/103931-turbine-housing-and-wastegate-porting/page__pid__977676#entry977676 That's the update on what I've been doing. There's also some good discussion on alternate boost controls. Should have results soon, after I put the LSD in and get the car back together. And also welding the manifold is not a "waste of time". The majority of people on here have done that with success. It is actually cast steel, not cast iron.

So... If I understand this, one way to set this up would be to have a turbine wheel/shaft speed sensor feeding turbine RPM (not engine RPM) data to a controller, and the controller would modulate a conventional exhaust-side wastegate to maintain the RPM of the turbine at whatever RPM the turbocharger is most happy in, with a hysteresis of a few hundred or a few thousand RPM. Basically just use a solenoid like this one: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ebc-electronic-boost-control-solenoid-kit-p-285.html , but have it referenced to turbine speed rather than pressure, by way of a controller. Then the BOV on the compressor side of the system would be setup identical to how a conventional exhaust side only wastegate would be setup, opening at a given manifold pressure. Since a conventional BOV operates by way of vacuum, you could simply mount a regular wastegate in your I/C piping that would bleed off excess flow, in addition to a conventional BOV that opens on lift-throttle. So this is not really that complicated. The bleeding off from the intake side should be as simple to rig as installing a conventional wastegate. Controlling the speed from the exhaust side is a little more complicating, but just because it's kind of "uncharted water". When you think about it, the software in the control module would be very simple, the kind of thing that could have been done 40 years ago probably. Does this sound right? EDIT: I suppose you could also use a mass air meter before the turbocharger to measure how much air the turbocharger is flowing, and reference the exhaust side wastegate to that in order to keep the turbocharger in it's peak effeciency island. The engine ECU could be operated on speed density or you could mount a second, blow-through mass air meter downstream of the compressor-side bleed valve to feed data to the ECU.

Read the "Surge Explained" sticky. Your just "wasting" energy on the compressor side rather than the turbine side. The operation is essentially the same as that of a conventional wastegate except that opening the valve at low RPM, before a conventional wastegate would open, will keep the compressor to the right of the surge line, and in a more effecient flow area. The trick is to have a BOV that can flow the proper amount of air, and I believe that the larger the better. The smaller the BOV, the more of a "hissing" sound you will get. And the biggest thing is the controller. Tony knows where to get them, ask him nicely and he will probably give a hint. I know Megasquirt has the capability to accomplish this, I just don't think the code is written for it. If I ever actually do this I will post a thread detailing it all, but for now it's just one of those things to keep in mind. How soon I do it will depend largely on the success/failure of my porting at controlling boost.

...When your college professor takes the whole class on a mini- "field trip" to go check out your car in the parking lot. ...When every older black man I meet says "hey my brother used to have one of those" and about half of the older white men I meet say "hey my wife used to have one of those" ...When kids correct you saying "you mean a 240sx?" ... When it sounds like a ferrari, looks like a jag, is faster than most new cars, and cost less than $10,000 to buy and build!

Looks like a solid design and plan. Basically the same under-hood layout I have.

If its only blowing fuel pump fuses when cranking then its probably due to your battery voltage dropping too low when cranking. Less volts=more amps. Congrats on getting it running though. The tuning will be a lot more fun.

With a vacuum leak that is causing it to idle so high you should be able to hear it, especially if your exhaust system is complete and/or muffled in some way. even if not muffled, take a peice of rubber fuel or vacuum hose about 12-18 inches long and hold one end to your ear and move the other around the various vacuum hoses. You will definitely hear a high pitched sucking sound at the point of the leak or leaks. Another way is to open the valve on an unlit propane torch and move it around the vacuum lines. The rpm will increase at the point of the leak. I never liked this method though, basically your holding a bomb in your hand in the presence of spark and raw fuel.