tonycharger72

Russel is extremely helpful and has lots of helpful information he can throw your way mate! You do need a different driveshaft after switching from Auto to Manual! Think its shorter............ From the man himself about the Diff Ratio's when going from Auto to Manual! "Also the standard driveshaft not long enough with short nose. and all the ratio's from R32/33 Z32 far to long, need 3.3 max, have this now, still to long.Had 3 Z32 rear ends already ,sold them all, too much screwing around, easier to pay $1200 for a Quaiffe or Cusco.Stick with long nose." But talk to Russ, he has lots of good information about this conversion and he is in Sydney! An issue to consider with the JZ's is the exhaust and fuel are on the wrong side compared with the L-Series & RB Engines, also none of your gauges will work!

I remember seeing an episode of Overhaulin and they sprayed that stuff down in the back of a Ute, once you started it you couldn't stop otherwise you would clog the gun, They didn't actually say it was Rhino-Liner, but looked like that sort of thing! Did you find that the case with the Rhino-Liner when applying?

In my experience, which I must stress - does differ from other members!!! The 16x8's with 0 offset will be fine for strut clearance on the rears (and fronts if you were so inclinded) - you should have at least 125mm of backspacing on the rear of the Z - those wheels should have about 114mm of backspacing! They will however, probably poke out past the guards - but should be small, if you lower the car you will most likely need to roll the rear guards! The fronts should be about perfect - should have strut clearance (about 10mm) and should just sit within you inner fender lip on the front! BUT - only way to know for certain is to measure you own car!

Rhino-Linings? Like the stuff you spray you ute/truck tray with?

Hey mate, looks really good! Where did you get the exhaust flanges and collectors from?

Thanks for posting that mate - I was completely lost of where to actually get rack ends for the stock rack! Just get a new rack!!! When my car had the stock 195/70-14 tyres on it PS was completely unwarranted, however, when I changed offsets and ran bigger tyres the steering effort became quite heavy at low speeds - the car went from feeling like PS really wasnt required to being something that would be nice to have! I was running 205's and 215's on the front of my Z with about a 30mm increase in track - there is people with a lot wider tyres and track increases than that on this board !!!

Be good if you could just bolt in the rack from the 280zx, but it requires to much quick thinking, left is right and right is left would get a bit tiring after awhile !!!

Let me get some pics of it so you know what you are looking for, Also - most of this sorta of stuff might not be a true and accurate representation of the actual item sold, I have seen sometimes they just put up the same pic of a "Dampner and springs" but name them differently to suit the specific applications, That tie-rod end looks like the stock Subaru rack end! To be honest, I have seen Subaru Racks from a Legacy, Forester, WRX from years 1993 to 2004 or so, and they kinda all look the same - have a look at the various pictures posted of the Subaru Rack on here, see if yours compares - there is lengths and thread sizes posted in this thread which should tell you if your rack is any different!

How do you update your email address, had a quick look on my profile (by clicking on my name) but all I could do was send myself an email - how do I update my emailing address?

Stupid Australian dollar, we almost had parody dammit !!! Things are so much cheaper to purchase in America, however, with the crappy exchange rate and shipping, may as well buy it locally, even with the free trade agreement!!!

, can buy it from Amazon!!! http://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Inc-3647-Cooling-Control/dp/B000C3BB6M

In theory, the front track is 8mm wider than the front track to start with ! But, from my measurements the front and rear forward spacing is basically the same, the back spacing is bigger on the rears - this allows the bigger wheels! If you were going to go staggered wheels you are most likely to purchase a wheel that is the same design front to rear, if they sell the same design wheel with different widths the manufacturer also probably sells the wheels in a variety of offsets - therefore, you could simply choose an offset for the fronts that placed the wheel in whatever position you would like ! OR You could get the same sized wheels front and back, which should basically fill out both front and rear guards in the same proportion! Also, unless you go to a hugely positive offset (35p and above) the only spacers you can use are slip over the hub type spacers - basically like washers to space the wheel out - don't think these are a very good idea for driving around on year after year, you will eventually snap a wheel stud!!! Also, if you want to save money on wheels - purchase MM's bolt on style wheel spacers that use a Honda 4x100 PCD, I don't know about the US, but in AUS there is massive amounts of cheaps wheels available with 35-45p offsets compared with 0-15p offsets 2nd hand, even knew!!!

Um........this - just the fusebox - think modern FB's all use these kinds of breakers, dont think old screw in ones with fusewire are used anymore, Like in my lifetime when there has been a short I have never had to actually change the fusewire - just flick the breaker! Issue I have is there is no rom on my Bus bar for an additional breaker swtich - its all occupado - therefore, I need the get the 240volts from those two big wires (1 & 2) to connect up to my new Breaker, Besides installing an entire new fuse panel (with more breaker slots) how can I get another breaker switch in there! Thanks for the concern, but its not that bad mate! It's a lot simpler than wiring a car !

Well either really (the Miata rack has 14x1.5 thread from memory?) The Toyota Wide-body rack end and the Datsun stock Tie-Rod ends together give you the correct length and this combo should just screw right into either rack! The Miata Rack and the Subaru Rack are about the same length - the Miata rack has the benefit of being a uniform thickness on the shaft ends, so if you do shorten it you aren't threading into thinner shaft sections like you are with the Subaru Rack, however there is a few members here who have done this with the Subaru Rack and they are still alive, so it appears to be not that bad!!! Please note though, the Miata rack has different part numbers for the rack ends - I have heard that the Miata has different length rack ends, when I measured a Series 2 Miata Rack I couldn't actually tell there was a difference in rack-end length, if there was - it is small!!! Either rack though will place the inner pivot points of the rack ends further out then the stock Z LCA pivots if stock racks are used! BUT............I am in the process of installing RX7 gear into my Z, the tie-rod end and ball-joint alignment on the spindle is a good 25mm out of plane - which was odd - but thats how it comes from the factory I honestly wouldn't be hacking up your rack - I would be just bolting it together and then maybe moving the inner pivot points out to suit the rack - then maybe, maybe installing camber plates to modify the affects of moving the LCA's outwards - but I don't really think it is worth the effort of pulling apart the steering rack and cutting and re-threading the ends, to much money!!! Another option is Electric PS.................. http://zclub.net/forum/hybrid-z-cars...-steering.html Items used are from a Vauxhall Corsa (Holden Barina for Aussies) and allows use of the stock steering rack, rack-ends and tie-rod ends - plus no expensive fluid lines from the rack - and there is a variable speed control so at high speeds the rack acts like a manual one!!! Can grab these units complete of EBAY UK for about $200US from memory! Just search - "Corsa Electric Power Steering" - that should get you started!!!

Was wondering if an electrician was lose about Hybridz? It's come time to wire some electricity into my shed, getting sick of running extension cords , Most of it I have figured out, well I think so.............but I have an old fusebox with no spare slots left on the bus bar, where the breakers bolt in, I was thinking of installing a 50amp breaker and running power to a sub-box in the shed, or just installing a 32amp fuse and running that to the shed and then piggy-backing of a power-point and running another line for lights, power for other devices, I can get picks of the fusebox I am working with if that will help, Just stuck with how to install a new breaker when there is no slot's left on the Fusepanel!!!

Thought I might throw up some pics of my, um, chassis straightening device - its high-tech stuff alright !!! The car seems to have had an accident on the passenger side, which buckled and bent that guard rail and body inwards, so had to straighten it so the bonnet to guards gaps would be suitable!!! & This is the wacky hood I am planning on using!!!

Nice dash mate and nice cat - that a Bengal?

Instead of hacking up your bonnet why not just use a Magnehelic gauge? They aren't exactly expensive............. http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38.l1313&_nkw=Magnehelic+gauge+&_sacat=See-All-Categories Some good reading !!! http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2160/article.html & then bonnet vents!!! http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2162/article.html Little snippet from the article, "This is exactly what we did on the Maxima, using the same 80 km/h road speed for all testing. The results were astounding – not because they reflected the textbook example shown in the graphic above, but because the pressure variations were so great! As can be seen here, the front half of the bonnet surface was clearly a negative pressure zone, while the rear half was all in positive pressure. And the further forwards the measurements were taken, the lower the pressure; and the further backwards, the higher the pressures!"

Hey mate what paint did you use for the under-body/sound-deadening - looks likes good stuff?

Hey mate, what is the paint you have used for the underbody/sound deadening - looks like really good stuff?

The below pics are from an Aussie Z sight, are these the RB-R's? They are not the black finish though, but the person selling them might be able to get pics for you in black? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3867.0.html This fellow also sells them here in Australia - he might also be able to get pics for you in black!!! http://www.otomoto.com.au/showroom.htm

Not all coilovers are the same, These are both Teins, top is from a Supra, This is from a Skyline! I am sure JIC Magic probably make coilovers for more than one car........ For example, http://shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_nkwZjicQ20magicQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZR40QQ_mdoZ So in order to know what sorts of mods you will require, need to see pics, and maybe what car they are from, Connecting the top of the strut should be a pretty straight forward prospect, all these types of aftermarket adjustable coilovers run 63mm ID springs, so can use Z style camber plates and spring tops - but the connection of the bottom is going to cause you problems, Which will require you to use custom lower control arms, adaption of another car's LCA's or swapping in the entire front suspension from another car, because there really isn't any other way to connect up the struts properly!

For a reference a Hybridz member called Mull did an awesome replacement of his fraime rails and floor pans with very detailed documentation - can be viewed in the members section "project hugo" or even on youtube, lots of videos - same search title!

What do the JIC Magic coilovers look like?

Oh, almost forgot - there is no provision for brakes on my diagram, but the backing-plate would be designed to use stock Z32/R32 style brakes with drum type handbrake - that or a suitable "lever" style cailper, either will effect caliper mounting ears or a bracket of some sort!