tonycharger72

Welding that sh#tty old metal together is a pain in the a@s! I found it really tricky to run continuous beads when I am attaching new metal to the old stuff contained in my Z, no matter how clean I get it - my welder isn't the most fantastic in the world and could use more adjustability - because of this I am sort of stuck between it running to hot and burning holes or not hot enough and getting no penetration! What I find works when welding up new metal to the Z's old metal or when just welding back together parts of the Z is running the temp a little bit hotter and spotting it, like one spot at a time for about 1.5" bead! Looks very neat as well that way! This method with the thinner metal gives the penetration required and makes it soooo much easier to weld then trying to run a continuous bead with some of the really thin old metal present on the Z!

What about if you want to add positive camber? with my RX7 lower control arms I appear to have quite a bit of negative camber already - I haven't been able to take anything close to an accurate measurement yet as my tires are a touch flat and the ground I am working on is pitted and uneven. But I think I already have at least 6deg, maybe more!

Do the GG allow as much camber adjustment as the TTT or AZC camber plates? I assume because you are cutting meat out of the top of the strut tower to fit the GG Camber Plates, it wouldn't be all that much different from using the TTT or AZC setup as far as the clearance you will gain and then movement allowed for camber adjustment! Is this a correct assumption? I think I need as much camber adjustment as I can get !

I have just trial fitted my struts and used the original rubber insulator at the top of the struts and was appalled to see the springs were rubbing the threads of the threaded collars - good to know what will cure it!!! I was curious about the NEW style GG camber plates you have their Jon, are they are a weld in or bolt in? The ones you pictured look like these ones below from GG! http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=151/CA=93 And this is an extract from the GG website regarding these coilovers! This kit is designed to bolt into the Z, and no welding is required. Just a little bit confused - are these camber plates bolt in or weld in?

Found the instructions from Lextreme!

Acres of space ! Wish you could get those motors for that price locally, I think I saw a 5.4L and T56 on EBAY Aus for $17k the other day ! Keep posting pics of your progress!!!

Yeah I knew about the Crown idle pulley or trimming the 4.7L 2UZ pulley - I remember seeing these engines with normal clutch fans, so went searching on Lextreme and a GT40 forum and found part numbers and what not, but think this option might be tricky as wreckers are probably going to be relucant to part out a 1UZ and buying the assembly geninue might be expensive, Some pics and details of swapping the pulley's http://www.gt40s.com/forum/rcr-forum-rcr40-rcr70-p4-mkiv/22685-1uzfe-superlite-coupe-ideas-3.html But, this is what I was looking for - I thought you may have an alternate solution !!! I have made up fibreglass shrouds for both the hydraulic fan and a 16" Spal, but it is really going to tricky to stuff all the hydraulic lines, cooler and overflow bottle at the front of the car - so at this stage, I am quite keen to use the thermo fan, unless I turbo the engine I doubt I will have cooling issues anyways so the thermo should keep it cool enough! I will have a look of Lextreme, thanks for the information mate !

Just curious to see if you have made your guards with the inside bit near the door - the inner skin, which bolts the guard to the car? When I have made fibreglass copies of the Z guard I have found this part tricky to incorporate!

There is a picture floating around somewhere of a convertible Z with a 4.6 DOHC (I think) installed and it was a very tight fit! But to install one into the Z - lets think............ This is apparently how it relates to the Windsor, which is sort of helpful! And this is the sizes of the different Modular Engines! Engine "A" "B" "C" 4.6L SOHC Mustang Intake * 23 5/8" * 5.4L SOHC F-Series Intake 28 " 23 5/8" * 4.6L DOHC Cobra Intake 27 1/8" 23 5/8" 26 5/8" 4.6L DOHC Sullivan Intake 27 3/4" 23 5/8 26 5/8" 5.4L DOHC Navigator Intake 35 1/2" 23 5/8" 28 1/4" 5.4L DOHC Sullivan Intake 28 1/2" 23 5/8" 28 1/4" 6.8L SOHC V-10 Van Intake 28 1/2" 27 1/8" * Looks like the widest of the modular engines is approximately 720mm wide, which should actually easily fit between the strut towers! The engine pic I posted above is from a Lincoln Navigator (whatever that is) and it appears to have a rear mounted sump, so thats a start! The below pics shows some engine mounts on a Modular engine, based on this pic you have a lot of capacity to move the engine mounts forward and backwards - you could copy or do something very similar to the Jag's That Run Engine Mounts I would think! And of course these engines have T56's stuck behind them, so mounting the gearbox shouldn't be that difficult - there is lots of information floating around this board about mounting that particular gearbox into the Z! Mounting the engine and gearbox should be pretty straight forward if you weld, then you will have all the other bits and pieces to worry about, but there would be lots of information floating around on Ford Forums about wiring, cooling, etc, etc, etc for these engines that you could use for this conversion! If you can grab the motors cheap, grab one and try fitting it, I don't think you are going to move forward with this engine conversion any other way as I don't think anyone of this forum has done this particular swap - and based on just those pics I found above, honestly dosen't look like it would be that tricky to slap one of these motors into the Z!

Hey Marc280, I assume your 1UZ came from a Soarer right? What did you do about the hydraulic fan setup? I noticed you were using a thermo fan in one of your pics - how did you ditch those hydraulic lines coming out from the front of the engine for the fan?

Hey John, Can you show the underside of the guard?

I have a friend who, in his pomp, could weld 1.2mm sheet with an Arc, but he is extremely experienced and appears to be a very good welder! I find it basically impossible to run continous beads with my Mig when welding thin metal, which is pretty much what you would have to do with an ARC! For thinner materials I almost always use an "on" - "off" method of welding, like running lots and lots of little tacks so when your done it kinda looks like it was tig'd, well sort of - this method would be pretty much impossible for ARC welding, and if you couldn't employ this method you would have to run a continous bead, which would most likely end up with you just burning holes in everything!

You do a ZG nose mate?

Yahoo Auctions Japan have them! Below is links to an Aussie Importer, which provides you with a platform to veiw the items in "Engrish", You may have to register and log on before you can view the items, www.importmonster.com.au Here's a ZG Nose, 5-Piece! http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n59069707&thumb=http://f6.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img143.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/3/9/6/3/arixcoltd-thumb-115918328885894.jpg&title=S30%20HS%20240Z%20G Bonnett, http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e93397937&thumb=http://f6.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img199.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/9/6/4/7/hakosuka_r-thumb-124531296040403.jpg&title=S30Z%20240ZG%20S31Z%20FRP And a nice set of Fibreglass flares for $460AUD ! http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d95581435&thumb=http://f2.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img217.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/3/9/6/3/arixcoltd-thumb-116098599634347.jpg&title=FRP Or you could just make your own, the below attempt was my forth or fifth time working with fibrglass - it's reasonably straight forward stuff to use!

To cool what?

Sweet project mate! Have a look at the fellow on Cardomain with the "450z", I used his ideas in making my 1UZ crossmember as a starting point for mounting the engine in the car! I have also had a theory that it may be possible to use something like JohnC's 1JZ/2JZ crossmember (BetaMotorsports) to mount these engines with the mounts far back on the block into the Z, as it would be the easiest way to mount the engine I would certainly investigate this route as a possibility! Fellow called John Dixon swapped a VH45 into his 300zx and has a wealth of information for slapping a Z32 5-Speed Getrag behind the VH45 and probably a lot of other really help VH related swap tips! Good luck with the conversion mate and make sure you post lots of pics!

Do you have a 240z? I fitted a 2JZ N/A with W58 gearbox and from memory (was a few years ago now) I didn't have to hack into the transmission tunnel reinforcement, but I have to remove the mounting ears for the original gearbox crossmember, I mounted the engine about 10mm of the firewall, which I wish I hadn't done in retrospect - as I removed the original bonnet latch from the firewall and the shifter was really far back! Yeah but your probably going to want to do that with either the RB or JZ engine! Go the VG30DETT then !

I just finished installing the new Radiator Support Panel, still needs welding, at the moment it's just tacked in place, I will wait until the car is back onto the rotisserie before I finish it off - save me welding upside down that way ! This is the original Lower Radiator Support Panel, but it was a bit heavy and run across the lower half of the radiator - so removed it! This is the new lower radiator support! Now the Top Radiator Support Panel Installed! Can see the mounting tabs for the radiator! New support panels installed! All boxed in! With the Radiator Installed! I am going to try and run the hydraulic fan that the 1UZ came with or at least make a shroud for the SPAL fan!

Sorry, that is really a half truth! If you have a 240z you should be able to avoid hacking up the transmission tunnel, I think, if you have a 260z or 280z and place the engine sufficently far forward, once again you should be able to avoid hacking up the reinforcement within the transmission tunnel!

RB is much easier to install, sort of............ You still have to purchase mounts and either run a skinny RB20 gearbox or start hacking up the transmission tunnel to fit the RB25 5spd! Also, they only come in front sumps, which is a bit tedious but you can do things like keep all your stock gauges! RB's aren't the easiest engines to keep cool either - I had a b$stard of a time keeping my RB30ET cool in traffic! 1JZGTE non-vti and N/A 2JZ's are cheap as and with JohnC's 2nd crossmember (Betamotorsport) the installation is fairly staightforward, or if you are handy with a welder you could fabricate your own mounts similar to Russjz-Zed, You can get 1jz/2jz's in rear sump configurations and as far as I have heard they don't have cooling issues like you get with RB's! Also, fuel and exhaust is on the opposite side on the 1jz/2jz than it is with the L-Series and RB Engines, which puts one more tick in the RB column! But, for me there is enough pro's and con's to make the differences between these engines negliable - so in my mind I would go for best bang for buck option, and if you are just looking at these two engines you just can't beat the 2JZGTE for value!

Read through the feedback on the EBAY page - they are usually are a pretty good indication of the quality and give you an expectation of the customer service you will recieve, and also can be good for a laugh as well ! There is a seller in Australia who sells a lot of Alluminium Radiators on EBAY AUST and the general impression I got from reading through their feedback was the radiators were pretty ordinary, customer service was appalling and chances of returning items, even though a warranty is given, was not the easiest thing to do because all items came straight from China!

And has been installed into a Z as well!!! Think is the 3.5L though, This is from an Australian Z car website! http://www.zshop.net.au/Photos/Parts/

I purchased a Chinese hand grenade (Was called a T3/T4 hybrid) and strapped it to the side of an N/A RB30 and it went fine, manifold, turbo and wastegate cost me $500AUD and all were new, Ran the car for about 5-10,000km's without any drama's, besides burning the paint on my bonnet ! If you are going to buy an EBAY turbo with some strange name, I would avoid purchasing the ones that cost 75-90% of the price of a brand new Garrett - there are a few of those on EBAY AUST - that seems pointless to me! I have heard lots of similar to stories to my personal experience!

I have always assumed that Alluminium welding with a MIG can give reasonable results, but was very tricky to do, mainly because there is a pretty fine line between getting enough heat into the alluminium to attain sufficent penetration and blowing holes right through the item being welded! I have been looking into purchasing a TIG, but my god they are expensive - guess using this sort of attachment allows you to use your MIG for alluminium welding!

I have put my bonnet on and it appears as if the throttle linkage clears ok, but the intake piping - the plastic bit straight after the throttle body has clearance issues with the bonnet - so will probably need a different solution alltogether - but see how it goes, I will most likely make a fibreglass bonnet anyways so can amend things then! Thanks for the wiring information mate, http://www.adaptronic.com.au/field.php About half-way down the page there is a fellow who has done a 1UZ conversion with documentation on how to wire in the Adaptronic ECU, between your diagrams and his diagrams I should be right! Thanks again!