spotfitz

I thought the name had changed. Sorry about the recommendation. The original place did a great number of jobs for me. A shame they are nolonger. There is a weld shop off Belknap just west of Beach, if I remember correctly. I'll swing by this afternoon and see what they can do for you. I take it your trying to do your coil overs this weekend. If worse comes to worse, we have a guy that has a welder up at work. He welded for a living at one time. I'll see what I can work out with him.

Very cool looking. I like it alot. Definitely unique.

Being I'm always having to "glaze" 1/4" plexiglass at work I have become good at it. Taking plexiglass and running it through a table saw naturally leaves a very burled up edge even using the best in negative pitch triple chip blades. Sanding the edge with 100 grit and then glazing it with heat leaves a perfectly smooth edge, if done properly. If you need to remove the glue remains then I would suggest to lightly sand them out with some wet 2000 grit and then break out your propane torch and ever so lightly start heating the plastic up where you have sanded. When I say lightly I mean, just brush the flame across the area to be glazed. Take your time, but sweep fast. You'll start to see the sanding marks disappear slowly as the plastic starts to melt. If you go to slow you can either warp the plastic or cause air bubbles in it, which then needs to be sanded back out. Ofcourse the more sanding you do the more waves you can put in the plexiglass. Go to your home depot, lowes, handy man hardware store or the like and pick up some 1/8" plexiglass off-fall for pretty cheap(if not free) and practice on it to get the hang of it. It's not that difficult to get it looking like new again. As for acetone, that is what we use to bond plexiglass to plexiglass. It will eat most plastics, but can be used to "wash" a plexiglass surface melting some of the material as it dries. Often times the surface is left wavy. Good luck.

http://server3.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-under2.JPG http://server2.uploadit.org/files/VinhZXT-under3.JPG Those 2 images look to not have a normal mustache bar in the mix. It also appears to have the up rights for the rear mount for the control arms bolted to the aluminum cross member for the vette diff. It does appears to have a vette diff.

I have a drivers side replacement panel if anyone is interested. Still in the box from when I purchased it and never used it. It's similiar to the one JohnC posted. From the fender bend down and from the door to the tail light panel. PM me if your interested.

I have checked the fusable links and even replaced them with the ones from my '77 along with the coil to eliminate those items. I plan to switch the afm out this weekend to see if that fixes the problem. Thanks for the ideas. Keep them coming guys. I waiting for the "just put a V8 in it!" statement, but I'm sure the kid would kill himself in it then.

The trouble still continues. Took the car to All Z's and replaced the ECU with no change. I had already run through the steps to check the thermo time switch and the head temp sensor before taking it to them. Both checked out ok with the head temp being in the 2.9 ohm range at 72*. I am at a loss. They can't figure it out either. We have proper fuel pressure(40) and looking at the plugs and the smell we have fuel. Check each plug we have fire. Coil wire to body ground can be pulled to about an inch before it stops jumping the gap to the body, so good spark. AFM isn't stuck shut or open and moves freely. All grounds are good. All connections are good. Is there something I'm missing? Anyone have a clue?

Well, to make a long story short, the color sanding did not take out the yellowing as of yet. My '74 was a tech session for our Z club this last Saturday and the original painter color sanded the top of the fender and part of the top of the car. The yellowing didn't come out with the little bit of color sanding he did. There was still some orange peel to the clear after the buffing so I know there can still be some sanding to be done. He had asked me what primer I used when I was doing the body work before dropping the car off. I said it didn't matter since the hatch, cowl and right door that was on the car now wasn't the parts I originally had on the car before it got painted and those parts now have yellowing to them. The funning thing about this is he pointed out another car he had just painted the engine bay of. Guess what. After putting the clear on the white it started having yellowing issues. What does this tell the powers in the know of paint work? To much hardener? To much "Wet Look"?

And will we be seeing all this hard work at tomorrow nights meeting?

1st Someone already told you where they got their spoiler from and offered to sell you one, so... 2nd The doors can be switched between the '70-early '74 after that they changed the latch mechanism. There are differences in the door panels(IE: the location of the locks aswell as the window mechanisms bolt up differently) In other words, get everything you can with the door your using or you may find it hard to find the right parts to finish. 3rd As TomoHawk mentioned, heat gun works. After some searching on the site you'll find a post on this subject and some people found some chemicals that worked well. 4th '73 and early '74 bumpers used shock mounts and are very close to the same(they bolt up), '71-'72 are very close, if not exactly the same(different bracket from the '73-early '74). I am not personally sure of this but I remember reading the '70 model was different. The bracket or not having uprights or something was different.

The good SU's would be discribed as having round tops, where as the "bad" SU's have flat tops. Ebay auction for flat tops, for reference only: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7966376163&category=33550 If you are located in the US(I didn't look) the (late ?)'73 240 and the '74 260 had the "bad" SU's. This was in a time of emissions restriction and these carbs were designed to help with that. I actually didn't have any problem running the flat tops on my early 260 for the first year of owning the car some 8 years ago. As for where to get them, you can pick some up from ZTherapy http://ztherapy.com/ and lay down some serious change, which I would recommend as I have them or pick some up from individuals in the classified ads of this site: http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=641&sort=1&cat=17&page=2 http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=633&sort=1&cat=17&page=2 and other sites: http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=22811&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=34& or Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7965925007&category=33550 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4540992872&category=34198 or go for something like this which are not SU's and are suppose to be harder to tune but better for power: http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=675&sort=1&cat=17&page=1 BTW, after only 5 minutes I was able to come up with all of these just scanning the classifieds and using the search feature on Ebay.

The one I purchased came with the inlet/outlets that worked for my application (280Z, which looks to be the "optionals" on that website). I am not sure what size hoses are on the 280zx, so I can't say for certain. If the '83 wasn't in the shop or the parts car was closer I could look, but it shouldn't take long to figure out what size you will need. If you have an FSM for your vehicle, it should tell you in the fuel delivery section. I found that specific link using the search function on this site using the words "fuel pump" in about 2 minutes. Yes, sometimes the search function doesn't work, but when it does there is a wealth of info on this site. You may actually find the specific inlet/outlet size required for the zx from alittle searching if you don't have an FSM or access to your car at this time.

http://www.fuel-pumps.net/500.html

What about a slide hammer? Doesn't seem right that it hasn't let go yet. Have you tried spraying some PB Blaster up in there and let sit?

No problem Phantom! Gee, I wish I could get my interior done in a month. I've been working on it since Dec. of '04 I should have it done by Dec. of '05 though, so I'm moving right along! Doesn't sound like it will be ready for our next meeting. I'll have to check your install out. I was considering letting the same place do my seats and door panels. After seeing the Z32, I have no doubts in their ability to due it, just my ability to pay for it.

Actually, on there opening page: The TADGER is a patented means to allow the fuel, on any gas or diesel engine, to burn more efficiently. Apparently they think it will work with any combustable liquid. Such high hopes.

I had mine wired for high speed only as a pusher(still an inliner) for about 6 months and didn't have any problem. I ran 10 gauge wire and a 40 amp relay triggered by a sensor in the thermo housing, like the first pic in the post posted. It did run for very long due to the air it moves. It makes it easy to sweep the garage floor without lifting a broom too.

Tim just brought up a "silly" ? as he put it, but it does have merit. I took my '77 to a Z club meeting one night. All was well on the drive up with 1/4 tank. Got there with about 3/16 of a tank and went in to eat. Came out after the meeting and pulled her around where everyone else was and shut it off. Went to leave and started it to warm up while I was still talking with people. I walked back over to leave and it wasn't running. I had to get a ride home because I didn't know what was wrong. It would just crank. I went back the next evening with a trailer and a gas can. I ended up driving it onto the trailer after putting gas in it, even though I had over 1/8th of a tank before putting 5 gallons in. I feel the pick up tube has a hole in it now from rust. I know I had run this car down below 1/8th before without any problems. Just because the gauge says you have gas doesn't necessarily mean you have enough gas.

When I was rebuilding my stub axles I took them to a machine shop with the new bearings and told them I wanted new studs aswell. They supplied me with the new studs and pulled the old and pressed the new bearings for $40. Dropped them off in the morning and picked them up that afternoon.

Scott, Thanks for posting this. I lost this in a pc crash about 3 years ago and just amount threw the pc out the window because of it. Now I just need to get home so I can have it on the pc closest to my Z. Come to think about it, I need it here at work aswell. I love getting paid for research! BTW, 115 pages on my 9X11 printer, but well worth it.

Been working on step-sons '83 280zx. We replaced the intake/exhaust gasket due to a leak and thermostat housing gasket while we were there. We did find out the head gasket is blown again, but not leaking antifreeze into #6 cylinder like it was before. We replaced the head gasket about a month ago. I fear the head is warped due to the previous owner not knowing how to bypass the heater, but the new gasket lasted a month with no problems. Once we got it back together it wouldn't start. Fuel pressure at 40psi. Everything is hooked up correctly. I've spent all day trouble shooting this thing and can't find anything wrong. AFM is not stuck. Injectors are firing. Spark plugs are firing. Firing order is correct. Distributor timing didn't move. TPS is disconnected, which is the way it was running before. Tried using a jumper for pin 29-30 and nothing. I can not think of anything that would cause it not to start. I have not checked the thermo time or the head temp switch. I need another brain to shoot me more ideas. What am I missing?

The second pic posted by Mike kZ is almost identical to a car around the corner from where I work. Very strange looking, but I'm sure I wouldn't want to count the hours it would take to pull something like that off. The third pic makes me cry. I've always wanted an old continental with suicide doors, white leather and power everything! That WILL be a future project.

I had all the stainless steel trim powder coated aswell. I have some high res. pics in my album you can zoom in on. I did go through the trouble of removing the staples that hold the window squegee(sp?) on and it is more of a pain to get it back on and even looking then you would think. Just the right amount of pressure or it will be wavy. Mine is still wavy. It cost me $120 for every piece you could think of. Even the interior door handle cups and hatch strut braces were done. The only complaint I had was on the C pillar emblems. They both had a wire mark on them from the way they hang them in the oven. He said he had done emblems before, but when I pointed it out he got a little upset and said I should have given him proper hanging techniques for the emblems. I'm now looking for another powder coater to do my rims in the same color, after I find another matching rim for the full size spare.

Excellent job Larry. If I ever get an the engine bay harness back in my Z I'll have to look this post up to rewire my "high only" circuit. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the way you have it you could also connect the a/c compressor signal into the aux relay to turn on the high speed just for when the compressor turns on aswell. It should just bypass the thermo switches. Living in Texas a/c isn't an option, it's a life style. Thanks for posting this.