spotfitz

It's been a long time since I've put an update on here so.. Been rather busy in the garage lately. I've finally finished all my wiring in the engine bay. Didn't turn out as neat and tidy as I hoped, but it's very functional and flexible for any future upgrades. Great for when I convert to F.I. I still have to tape it all up and wire loom it. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=6737&cat=500&ppuser=7958 The stock engine bay harness is a joke! So many wires crimped to the same gauge over and over again. No wonder there are always wiring grimlins in the Z's. I almost have the interior done. I have to redo the headliner since the vinyl came loose from the pad. Thanks MSA. The seats should be done next week. I did all the rest of the vinyl work with some help from my mother inlaws sewing machine. The rear strut towers and wheel wells are now one piece. One side is alittle loose. I'm hoping that once it gets alittle warmer I can get some of the wrinkles out. You can see more interior pics in my album. The new rear carpet is 1 inch short, but I bought it 5 years ago and the company I got it from is nolonger on ebay so..I'll figure something out. Maybe leave it out in the sun and stretch it. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=6740&cat=500&ppuser=7958 Alittle blurry: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=6739&cat=500&ppuser=7958 I'm now in the process of finishing the head work and then I can stab the rebuilt motor in. I'll be putting the ZTherapy carbs on the turbo motor for now. I can't afford the rest of the turbo components I need to get intime for the convention at the end of May. As she sits right now: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=6741&cat=500&ppuser=7958 Acouple more things to buy for the exterior that I can't bring myself to buy at the prices I'm seeing for them, but eventually... Hope you enjoyed the update.

Excellent job. This gave me some solutions.

MMMMMMMM Copper Head. Yes, I was very upset when I found out about Stacey. These two new morons should just go back to what ever it was they weren't doing before.

I had considered that. Alittle to much work for me, considering how close I am to having her back on the road. I'll be uploading some pics on Monday. I'll also post my progress. I actually heard talk of "worst in show". I know I could get that with my daily driver. Especially if I bring the dead body. lol

Bump

I just found this thread. Don't know how I missed it. I'll take 2 please, if possible. Thanks for getting this going!

This afternoon I am dropping off my seats('94 Eclipse seats) to have them redone. The seats themselves are fine, as for shape, but the fabric got screwed up when the car was in paint jail. It is going to cost about $225 per seat to have them redone in vinyl. Even after I managed to remake all the interior vinyl by hand, including the rear strut towers all sewn together(double back stitched: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4354&cat=500&ppuser=7958 ) in one piece per side, I didn't think I could cover the seats and make them look good. Way to many curves to consider. Money well spent in having someone else do it. If you feel you can do it, I say go for it! Making your own seats from the stock frames and then forming the padding to your body and then making the coverings is going to take alot of time and money. How much material and time would be involved in doing this with the stock seats? You have to figure the padding, bracing, the fabric and time involved. Is this cost affective?

Thats David's ZX!?

technicalninja is right. I don't know what I was think with the fuel lines being part of the sender unit. They are not. I was working on a '79 ZX last weekend. Maybe thats where I got mixed up.

Sorry. You are correct. The only one I can find is for the 300ZX, but about the only difference(excluding the shape) is the location of the sender and it being combined with the fuel inlet/outlet/evap. In this pic you are looking at the front of the tank, towards the differential, and the sender on the '70-'76 would be on this side facing the differential, but closer to the passenger side. Note the filler location in the pic for reference. On '77-'83 it is located on top and later '84-'96 (like the pic) I'm pretty sure they separated them and inserted the pump in the tank. As jmortensen mentioned, there is a ring that holds the sender in the hole with an o-ring for a seal. I know that the sender hole size appeared to be the same between my early '74 and my early '77. Whether the sender has the same size ring or more specifically the Exact same sender, I don't know. http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801d1bd6.gif

For an L20B, it does look correct, block clocked wrong: http://www.worldaccessnet.com/~dcmurphy/620/620tech2.htm

Fuel sending unit and fuel lines go in the hole where the tabs are. It's one plate that fits in that hole that has your fuel line connections and the power connections for the fuel sender. The rest of the holes, minus the fuel filler, is for vapor recovery/vent. Haynes/Chilton manual would have all this information, since they cover a wide range of years.

I personally have never liked the idea of tile counter tops. I don't care how much sealer you put on the grout, it will get soiled. With the 12x12 tiles your talking about using you wouldn't have as many grout lines, but trying to make a small grout line and keep it all lined up can be a challenge and a small grout line has more of a tendancy to crack from what I've seen. I work for a commercial cabinet company and use to build counter tops ranging from butcher block, solid surface(corian,gibraltar,imax,staron,avonite) and plastic laminate(formica,wilsonart,nevemar,pionite,abet) and have been in more homes being built then I could count with a calculator. As for solid surface scratching, thats the beauty of it. Most are made of acrylic polymers and can be sanding back to the previous finish. Infact, depending on the finish desired, you just take a scotch pad to it and your done. For durability, solid surface has it's cons. It cracks easily and don't even think about putting a hot pan on it without a pot holder under it. I've repair 2 solid surface tops so far THIS YEAR! Most granite tops I've seen have needed atleast one joint in them due to size. The guys that put the tops in think that a 1/4" gap is ok, by their standards. My bonus this year was to remodel my kitchen with new cabinets and counter tops to my liking. I can choose any of the materials listed so far and not have to pay for any of it. You want to know what I chose? What people normally refer to as formica. Plastic laminate is very durable compared to solid surface. In my kitchen layout I could get away from needing a joint if I went granite. Granite scratches and chips just about as bad as solid surface, but the cost to repair it is rediculous. As for resale value, due to the expense of granite, it has a higher impact on resale. If you feel you can lay out the granite tiles to look like a one piece top, then I would say go for it. Something to consider after your done though would be to seal the whole top, tile and all.

http://www.datsunrestore.com/photo4.html

280zx does not have a bar. It has a mount in place of the bar. This mount then slips over a single bolt coming down from the rear deck.

I finally got it downloaded. I loved it! Excellent choice for a song. Wish there was more of the back road drive though.

TRY IT NOW: http://www.bransonzfest.com/05/video/BransonZFest2005.wmv

The stock resistors for the injectors are located on the drivers inside fender just infront of the clutch master cylinder. Jerry should have some on a parts car. Good luck.

I used the butt joint method when patching the few spots I had to do. I didn't like the idea of another lap joint after looking at the firewall seam at the floor board. The one thing I noticed using a mig without gas shield was if there is the slightest bit of rust where you are trying to weld, it will blow a hole in the piece your welding. After the first couple pieces I tried, and failed, I made my patch hole and replacement piece bigger and had no problems welding it back up. Spot welding around the perimeter and then filling worked well aslong as I prepared the weld surface between each pass. In this pic you should notice where the patch is in the middle, I had to contour the piece to fit the original. At the time of the pic I was rinsing metal ready off and letting it dry. Thats why it looks wet. Because it is. In the same pic you slightly can see the other patch which went from the firewall seam back about 10" along the rocker panel and the hump that leads down to the floor board. Now that one was fun to fit! I eventually cleaned up the firewall seam surface rust and POR-15'ed the mess. You couldn't see where the patch was. Eventually I put in sound deadening. Those pics are in my album. Hope this helped.

It may take that long for me to get back to it. Money is alittle tight right now and I need to finish my tranny tunnel to get the rest of the interior in and finish the engine bay wiring harness(waiting for parts right now, which is why I'm broke). I may just make my own tower plates, rather then have them plasma cut. I'll hopefully borrow a buddies welder again and I'll throw it together. I didn't want to go all out on a daily driver/occassional autoX car. Side bars aren't fun to climb over every day. If you get some CAD drawings before I get back to it, I would love to look at them. Anything up to 2004 I can view/edit.

dj paul, What you describe wanting to do is what I had described doing to my Z. I'm still at the stage of sourcing someone to plasma cut the tower plates(hint, hint anyone) and then will run a tube between the towers. Just inside the towers I had planned to run a tube to each upper/outer corner of the autopower bar. I feel this will form the best structure, almost triangulated. If someone feels there is a reason for me to not do it that way, please speak up! I had considered making the two tubes tie to just the tower plate, but it seemed easier to tie them to the cross tube with a tube notcher.

Man, you'll be drinking lemonade for weeks. I never knew Pontiac had their own lemon orchard. lol My dad use to have one. It was a screamer. The low and wide look of them makes for a sleek looking car! Can't beat it for $100.

The '77 is Trusty Rusty. $200 for her and I've been driving her daily for almost 2 years now after spending $200 on tires and a battery. The '74 in the garage is the Queen, since my fiancee is the princess and the queen hasn't left the garage under her own power for about 2 years now. Getting close though....