spotfitz

I hear a "FOR NOW" coming from Tim shortly....

Thanks for the links! I'll have to check those out for a better deal.

http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html Second item from the bottom they have the chrome rings for the 260-280Z for $232.50, but don't appear to have them for the 240 which are different. Large chunk of change for just some chrome plating, but getting it done yourself would probably cost just as much.

Congrats Bill So, is Connor coming to the meeting this Thursday? With his size he should be driving soon. Thats a pretty big boy. Are you coming to the meeting this Thursday to be our leader? I'm extremely happy for you and your family!

I love seeing vid's like this. Excellent work on the Z. What did the guy say, 113 @ 6.38 in the 1/8th. Thats cookin. More please.

I helped a friend move all weekend and then Monday I had to take my girlfriend to the doctor. Didn't get any new info on the products yet. There is only yellowing. No cracks to be found. I'm hoping to know more this Friday. I may try to take some pics of some of the patches tonight.

Chris, Actually, I think Tim introduced us at one time. It was at All Z's when Tim was replacing his defunct engine. I was helping him get all the parts off so he could pull the motor and showing him a kewl way to get the antifreeze out of a radiator without a peacock. I was actually on my way out the door when you stopped in for some parts, so we didn't speak long. Your set up sounds very similiar to what I am trying to put together, if I can ever get the rest of the interior put in. One project at a time for me. I look forward to your move and meeting you again. I can't say enough good things about Tim. He is an incredible guy and an excellent friend to have and if your friends with him then I expect that you are just as good of a person as he is. Johnathan

I recall Steve Graber's Velo Rossa site once having the white face gauges you could download for free. After alittle search I found this. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=80177&highlight=steve+graber Which had the link to Steve's site for the gauges http://www.newtier.com/graber/z-car/gauges.html He even offers to print them out and send them to you for $40. I don't know if he will still do this.

Thanks for the info so far guys. I'm really hoping that it is indeed the clear and can be rectified with color sanding. I've been half tempted to try out the bad areas in the engine bay to see if it will sand out, but after a recent post on this forum I'm not sure I want to attempt it. The frame rail has some bad spots on it, maybe I'll hit that area on the drivers side considering it will be mostly hidden. Any advice for proper procedure other then posted in the other topic would be great. I have up to 2000 wet/dry and even some 4000-6000 for polishing plexiglass if it will do the job. If I can make a plexiglass window from an airplane with knife cuts in it and make it look like new I think I can attempt the frame rail. Prior to painting, the car was all the same color(grey) primer. I did have pictures of just before, during and after the paint job but at the time I didn't have a digital and the developer ruined the instant film, so...I may have some pics of the week before painting. I'll check tomorrow. I'm pretty sure that I can find out the brand paint that was used. Considering the upcharge I received for wanting the interior painted after the first estimate, even though I prepared the interior for them, I would think the paint wasn't anything cheap. If I remember correctly, it was stated something in the neighborhood of $200 per gallon. This also may have been just "upcharge" talk. I am not going to mention the conversation with the owner right now. It isn't proper until I know exactly what he wants to do about the situation, even though he didn't have the best response about the problem. I may swing by the shop and find the paint that was used tomorrow. If not tomorrow I'll have to wait until next weekend. Considering the cost of the paint job and the extent of the assembly so far, I am not looking forward to a repaint if necessary. Anymore advice is very much welcome. Sorry for the long post. This is very upsetting to me considering what this Z means to me. I'm sure you can understand.

No, never a cover on the car. I can take high res. pics, but of the other pics I have taken(in my album) nothing seems to show up. I'm sure if I put some light to it(which i definitely have and I knew how to use my new 5MP camera properly I could get it to show up). Maybe I'll do that this weekend while I'm crying in the garage!

Alittle history. I had my '74 painted last year and it has done nothing but sit in the garage since July/August of '04, except a rinse off one day when I was cleaning the garage. I now have what I think is yellowing of the clear, but I'm not sure. Brand of paint and clear unknown. 2 stage paint, artic white(6 coats) with gun metal metalflake in the first coat of clear(6 total clear coats). It has not been color sanded yet. I was present when the same painter had painted other cars and there were no issues that I know of. I was there, in the booth, when mine was shot and after it was pushed out of the booth and onto a trailer and it looked fine. I watched as the cups were thoroughly cleaned and different guns were not used for the paint/clear. Since then my Z has started showing yellow patches. It doesn't appear to be getting worse. Same patches in the same spots. I don't even recall when they first started showing up. I was told it was because of the high output fluoresent(sp?) lights in my garage turning the clear, but I'm certain this is crap because it wouldn't have the patches of yellow on the hood and not on the roof, which is closer to one of the lights. It has yellowing in patches on almost every panel on the car including the engine bay, which was shot at a diferent time. This would leave me to believe it is actually bad paint or possible bleed through of bad body work, but the engine bay didn't get body work and the interior(which didn't get cleared) hasn't had a problem with the yellow patches. There are other spots I know didn't get body work that have patches. All this points to the clear. Is this a good assumption? Of the paint experts on this site, what are your takes on this? I'm really hoping that once it gets color sanded and buffed out(which will be done by the original shop) it will be ok, but I'm hoping someone could give me some advice as to the problem. How does this type of thing happen?

Chris, Tim Schorn and I just had lunch together and he mentioned you having it back together. He mentioned something about you taking it for a test drive at 6 psi and having problems opening/closing the door afterwards. Must be making some serious torque with the new turbo. He couldn't remember which one you got. He just said some monster with ball bearings. Would that be a gt35? Could you share some of the details on your setup?

My dad had a saying. You either work on the vehicle or make payments or both. Being car broke is no fun. Get one running reliably and use it as a daily driver. You'll be happier when it comes time for summer and you want to go do something.

Thanks Tim. Hope that covered it and again, thanks for doing this. I don't post much, but I am always here and I see all the help some do for the site. You always seem to do this stuff for our little family. I just wanted to say, I love you man. ~

Hope it's not to late to get one of the left overs. I'm sending payment now!

I am not a licensed electrician, nor do I play one on tv, but I have run my share of electrical. I have personally seen a friend(electrician, no doubt) get killed from an electrical shock. So, take it for what you payed for it and be especially safe playing with this stuff! I would not suggest to hard wire the compressor, even though you are on the 100a in the house to this box. You could either use (2) 30a 110v breakers and run this to your compressor(hard wired or plugged) or run (1) 60a breaker to the compressor(again, hard wired or plugged). I personally would run the 60a to a plug. This way you leave room for future add-ons in the box and you now have another 220 plug for use with other equipment if need be. I just hope you have enough current running from the house to this box or you'll always be tripping the 100a. If you're running lights and the welder and the compressor comes on, you'll find out real quick if you have enough for the box! Hope it helps and remember that even though the pliers your playing with are insulated you can still get burnt.

Lots of force is exerted on the spoiler at speed. I personally would not trust a zip tie for this. Once a bumper is on you can't see this area so I don't know why drilling holes would be a concern. There is another alternative though. Even with the spoiler bolted up as I suggested, at high speed the spoiler can still flex to some degree. This has been discussed to long extents on this board. Some have made an extension from the spoiler to the lower radiator support(not a belly pan). It adds downforce, directs air into the radiator and gives the needed support to the spoiler. I think going this route with a sturdy enough extension you could do without the 1 of the bolts going into each of the head light buckets, but you would still need to use the bolts that go into the fender at the trailing most edge of the spoiler.

I ran into this same thing. As a matter of fact, this weekend I was looking at this area. When I got my Z painted I replaced both head light buckets. The body shop that put the spoiler on didn't drill the second set of holes. The spot you are refering to is where 240Z bumpers normally bolt up. On my 260Z I used the hole for the rubber strip on the bumper to bolt this area up in the hole in the bucket. Once the bumper is on you can't see the "misalignment" issue with the spoiler. You need to drill new holes for the spoiler to bold to the bucket just above the turn signal. If this made no sense, pm me and I can take some pics tonight for you. I'm going on pure coffee right now, due to lack of sleep last night. Hope it helps.

If the fusible links are ok, you should also check the ignition switch. The white plastic part on the back of the key switch, where the wires hook up. It can go bad or could get shorted out with what has happened concerning the starter. When they go bad you can remove them from the switch and use a screw driver to turn them further then the switch can and sometimes get them to work. I would think the fusible link would blow first. Thats what their there for, but they are slow burn fuses. I would replace in order of less cost and work my way down the list.

I'm interested, as stated when this first came up, in a 3" SS pipe w/ (2) 45* bends for an S30. If I have to grind a fin or two so be it. If I have to beat the fire wall, I have before and I will do it again.

You know, some body tried to out bid me with $1,000,101.00. Can you believe the nerve? I, ofcourse had to bid $2,000,000. I hate to be out bid! So, should I send this guy monopoly money? Wait, this means I have to buy more monopoly games just to cover it. I'm really hoping this is your car stony.

Sorry stony, I just out bid you. I just out bid you for your own car. $100001.00 Just out of curiousity, when will you be delivering my prize? God, this damn well better be your auction or I may be killing my perfect rating for a fellow HybridZer. Oh well. It will be worth it.

Being subscribed to a thread means you will receive an email with each new post to that thread. You can also remove your subscription to a thread that you no longer want to watch, the purging of user names thread for instant.

From what I've read on this forum, a '75-'76 tank will bolt up to a '74. I have an early '74 and plan to use a surge tank rather then replace my already refurbished tank.

I had the situation JohnC just mentioned. The 3 piece spoiler fit good before the repairs were done to my right rear quarter panel. After the paint job it was evident that the repairs done effected the fit and there was now a gap. Why these pieces weren't test fit to the panel, I don't know. Since the paint job was already done there was no turning back. I decided, with lack of a better decision, to live with it. Funny thing was the spoiler pieces still lined up as if there was no change.