WEBEZEEed

Try removing the line at the tank and blow some high pressure air thru it. If it were me I would reinstall a new mechanical pump, it will deliver the correct pressure and amount,and it's not electric...... one less thing to up and quit on you when least expected( that's just my take on things).

Paul.... no need to apologize, I was just knittpicking!

Derek, on your multi colored rendering of your setup you posted...(I believe )you are going to want to have all of the green actuating arms that are connected to the throttle linkage to all be parallel to each other, due to the geometry they are not going to all have the same rate of opening. The arms that are closer to 90deg. angle to the linkage will open more than the ones that are further from 90deg. Does anyone else agree. It's been a VERY long time since 10th grade geometry.

No such word as irregardless(double neg.) anyway the ONLY change made was the cam, and they produced more power. How & why it made more I can't tell you but it did,I've watched that episode twice now.

Watch what happens when you heat it up on the outside with a torch, it starts to swell and then the rubber gets soft and it starts to squeeze itself out; then all you do is grab hold( with a little twist that breaks it loose) and pull it out in one piece. All that is left is maybe a little touchup with the wire wheel!

Horsepower T.V. did a Dyno test on one of those cams not too long ago, they got a 30 H.P. increase on a 500 H.P. motor.... (no other changes but the cam)

Indeed that is a very nice looking piece,along with a few others that are producing them. I'm a carb guy myself and I got to tell ya,I look at all these with a slight modifiction and 6 motorcycle carbs on there,surely I am not the only one! (not saying it's better than FI... just a possibility)

On my Fidanza I had to add a washer to the bolts, they bottomed out before they snuged up. Check to see if that might have been the cause of your problem?

I'm confused, the graph reads power at the (flywheel) written description just above it reads (whp)?

Weather it works or not I don't care..... that's just plain old neato,keeno,coolo!!

260pos....... you have an E mail:wink:

It's a stock 73,head has never been off,I get 150 to 155 psi. on all 6 cyls. I'm sure that AF ratio is a little much for about any NA motor. It wasn't a real tuning session, I'll get my s--t together and do a little carb experimenting and go back in the spring and buy some time on the dyno and see just how much better it can be. I'm sure I'll end up installing a wide band o2 before then, that should cut down on the dyno time purchased.

Our club had access to a mustang dyno back on Dec. 2. Mine is a 73 with 181,000 miles, 82 5 speed&rearend using 75-90 wt. amsoil in both. 6-2-1 with 2 12 inch turbo exh. Lightweight flywheel, stock clutch, single groove pulley, ALL polution pieces removed, points replaced with crane xr3000,E3 sparkplugs,carbs are 4 screw with stock needles,however modifications were made to throttle shaft and butterflies for better flow. Pull was done in 4th gear and air filter removed(housing was left on) Max hp. was 149, tq. was 158. AR ratio at max was between 10.8 & 11.1 Would any of you with experience try an educated guess on what improvements migth be had with propper AR ratio, I'm not anywhere near qualified... thanks

Take a piece of the fuel hose to N.A.P.A. they mathced mine up for 30 something cents a foot still pliable and right o.d. so the stock clamps still fit, 2 1/2 turns is a good starting point.

That sheetmetal on the hood looks pretty thin.

I wonder what that does to the aerodynamics??

This is a little long but here goes. Car is a stock 73, removed 4 speed and flywheel, Installed Fidanza aluminum flywheel,reinstalled stock pressure plate and disk, installed 82 5 speed with throw out bearing from 4 speed, slave and master cylinders are in good working order (both only 1 year old) system was rebled checked ... no air in syetem. I now cannot get enough disengagement to shift gears, clutch pedal is adjusted full out (most travel) was that way with 4 speed and original flywheel. So I tried the throwout bearing from the 5 speed, too much, slave will not bolt up, clutch arm is too far foreward,back to 4 speed throwout and a washer under the clutch arm pivot ball, slave was difficult to bolt up but managed, car now shifts, test drive...... slips under load,it did not slip before!pull trans and replace washer under pivot ball with thinner one,slave just bolts up there is maybe 10 thousands between clutch arm and slave pushrod , I am at max travel no wasted movement, had wife push in clutch and put into gear, not enough disengagement, had to slide screwdriver thru ujoint of driveshaft to be able to turn it. I am thinking that there has to be some difference in flywheels. If a step is machined where the pressure plate bolts would that not change the engagementdisengagement charteristics,maybe even make the tines of the pressure plate a little closer to the throwout,or maybe even change the leverage ratio. For some reason I neet more disengagement travel.Does anyone have any words of wisdom or experienced the same with a fidanza flywheel and stock componets?

Just a suggestion, to limit vacuum advance on my 73 I took apart the vacuum pod actuating arm (the arm that pulls the breaker plate) removed keeper and spring and install correct dia. washer washers to affect desired travel degree limit .

Concerning rear transverse link inner bushings (ft&rear)... would one be correct in assuming that the bushing is stationary with the chassis and rotates on the link?

Amazing! Tim Z , you da man,thank you very much. Looks like I'll have to work my way back up to the gauge itself.

Does any one know what the high and low readings should be ? I have a 73 and I get a low of 8 and a high of 89 ohms.

Thanks for the info TonyD!

I have been looking,searching here and in my service manual and can not find a reference to in regards to if there is a step in the flywheel or just machined true all the way accross( stock street application) also is there a source besides dealer for the pressure plate locating pins? Thanks in advance.....

If you knew how to use that Tig you could fix your problem

Does anyone know the cfm rating for a (1) stock SU carb.... round top ?