WEBEZEEed

1973 F.S.M. = 15 7\8 U.S. gallons.

You guys can hash this out, but I recently reinstalled my expansion tank in my 73. I can say that the 2 years that it was out created no problems.

Madkaw, my motor is the stock 2.4L head never been off. I have done other things like no pollution equipment at all, single row pulley,stock dist. slightly recurved & crane xr 3000 converted, intake has been de-burred and ceramic coated,MSA 6-2-1 ceramic coated header with 2 1|2 ex. stock carb heat shield has been enlarged to try to deflect a little more heat, stock air box is painted with an additive to help insulate,(you can never get enough cold air} the carbs are from a 71 model and have not been bored but are modified per Mr. Vizards book. I run a wide band o2... about 2 years now, the biggest problem I have is going lean on acceleration but goes rich at 3|4 to full throttle. SM needles didn't do much in my case. Needs custom needles but I'll wait. I do get 30-31 mpg at 75 mph, Trans is a close ratio 5 speed with a 3.54 R180 open. Also the metal air horns are gone and replaced with ones a little shorter and a little wider radius ( home made ) I have Pulstar plugs... can;t tell any difference over the E3's I ran which didn't seem any better than the NGK bp6ey,s I ran. I know I'm rambling on here, but I gotta believe that if my motor was built as yours is that h.p. should approach 170 ish and I would think yours would be also if the carbs were modified like mine. What area of Indy you in? i used to go to Greenwood quite often.

You mentioned you wanted to see the limit of your SU,s..... get that book and try his suggestions, I think you like it. I run a stock mechanical fuel pump on mine and have no engine mods save for a header and 2&a half inch ex. and it still went rich even with stock needles. The carbs are 4 screws with a n33 intake. 199K miles running 150-155 psi accross the board. I have improved things a little since my last dyno run, so I'm guessing it's up around 155-160 h.p. and adout that much on torque.( Mustang dyno )

I haven't seen SU,s do that before,mine goe's rich (10.8-11.2 ) at full throttle and I'm at the same power levels you are. SU.s run out of air, there is I would guess 20 more ponies left them, get David Vizard's book Tuning The A Series Engine. He has a very good section on SU modification that wont cost a dime, just your labor. BTW I'm just down the road in Lou.

If you get those stainless bumpers let us know how they work out! I've had my eyes on them also.

Yes sireee!

I can't help on his motor but I do believe i heard a little.... I'd love to change the world.... By Ten Years After. Hope I'm not the only one!

I have the same sort of conditions you are describing with my 73, with 71 carbs on it. Idle is rich,cruise & part throttle acceleration is lean, then transitions to rich at heavy acceleration to full throttle. I then did some modifications to the carbs that increased air flow. I got the same circumstances only much more power & torque. I installed some SM needles, wound up at about the same with maybe a little improvement in mid range.i worked on the carbs a little more for air flow and have made new & improved air horns. Car pulls a little harder up top but air ratios are the same. I now have installed some RH needles and idle has improved a good amount along with acceleration not being as lean and for a shorter amount of time, however it still is quite rich(11-12 to 1 ) at full throttle. This is a stock L24 save for ignition & exhaust, wide band has been installed the whole time. I didn't have much luck in adjusting the needle jet. It would improve one area and hinder another. There is no telling how many profiles of needles it may take to optimize a particular engine, as Tony has mentioned a separate idle circuit go a long way in addressing this symptom.I have not as yet tried needles from some flat tops.

Finished product out the door......with all those metal shavings! tacky in my book.I mean how hard would it have been to blow some compressed air thru there? I know I'm nit picking but that is just too simple to do before it is sent out. It wouldn't fly where I work.

Tony D, 1963 is just a lllllittle bit early for the 350 C.I.D.

QC,if you went to Nissan and "the guy" asked you what grade piston, then I would think "the guy" should have your answers for you.

Back in the day when I used to get my dirt bike motor rebuilt, an over bore piston used to be described as a 1st ,2nd,or 3rd over size.

I love my SU's, they have a lot of potential that can be realized thru some modifications that don't cost any $ just your time.

Yea, 10-4 on the warm, they are calling for 40 degrees on Tuesday, just a thought.... what do you think about maybe boiling (water) them?

Thanks Tony, I'll keep at it and try to employ your suggestions. It may be a few days till I get back out to the garage,it's only 10 degrees out right now.

I have an impact, thats what was used for most of the brass pieces. The parts I'm having trouble with I don't believe thread in, they are moved vertically by the choke mechanism. They are under a spring a very short sleeve looking thing and a slotted flat brass keeper. They have a slight groove in the middle where the brass arm engages it so when the choke is applied they raise up, and of course return when the choke is released. These carbs must have been sitting for a VERY long time. There is a lot of growthcorrosion oxidation and white coating inside on every part even the brass floats are white. Does anyone know if vinegar can be used? I've heard it mentioned.

Santa delivered to me a set of triple 40's. I am having one heck of a time unsticking the start barrelsjets on the back. I have removed the choke plate with the actuating arms along with all other brass tubes and jets and whatever. I'v soaked them in PB blaster (3 days) W D 40. C.L.R. ,kerosene, seafoam , enamel reducer and have even fired up the propane torche to heat them up . No Dice, they will not budge. Who knowes the secret of unsticking these guys? Thanks in advance!!

Keep it really simple............just get a 6 volt cable, carries more amps for hot & cold starting, cheaper too!

Try a local hydraulic hose heavy equip. repair shop, depending on their inventory it may take 2 pieces most likely in brass. Cost should be 5 to 10 dollars for both pieces. Also Home Depot & Tractor Supply are carrying some fittings like those.

Good Golly..... an underhood ice storm!

Motorcycle front shock oil is what I use and you have different weights to choose from.

Looks like left hand drive to me!

Just for future reference guys, there is a company called SSP they make the same fittings as Swagelock and are intermixable with Swagelock, bodies,nuts,& ferrules. You can get them in brass,carbon steel& stainless.

I've had to remark mine so it's clear it is the wrong one (timing wise) but it has been that way for 3 years now with no problems.