WEBEZEEed

You never mentioned what year motor, I've had 3 73's and the front cover tab is bolted to the driver side of the block, and the dampener is timed for that side!I did not realize that other years were on the passenger side, and I have run into a timing problem by swapping parts .Somewhere along the way I mismatched the two.

I'm in, where do I sign!

evildky, dyno day is saturday..........didn't know you could build a motor that fast? lol.

Dane, use caution in the bridge area. It is important in fuel atomization, for drag racing it's probably ok.The other things you mentioned are covered in the book I suggested to col.

Jmortensen,have you checked out a competent hydraulic hose & fitting shop? Any shop worth it's salt will have all kinds of AN fittings,but they know them as JIC fittings, plus metric and British adapters. You should be able to get a stainless braided teflon hose with machine crimped ends,not those aluminum screw together ones, they're not as pretty (not anodized) but plated steel& should hold up better, some even offer them in stainless for a price of course........ Just a suggestion.

I would suggest you go pick up a book by David Vizard, Tuning the A-Series Engine. There is a lot of useful info about SUs along with all other aspects of a motor.There are some things you can do that do not cost hardly anything(mostly labor) that make a nice improvement in performance.In my case I saw H.P.& torque improvements in the 20-25% range!

If that performs as good as it looks........... there'll be a hot time in the old town tonight!

March 24th, a week from this coming monday. We're going to have a Dyno Day April 26th incase you are interested.

As a side note I know many have had problems with vapor lock, however I have owned 2 73Zs and have not had that problem. I guess it's a hit or miss deal.

Meet at Collins Ford Nissan on Bardstown Rd. every 4th monday 6pm upstairs on the Nissan side, hope to see you!

Paul (BRAAP).... just wondering if you ever dyno'ed that car? Possibly 190ish at the wheels?

Sorry i don't have that capability, but the stock pump bolts to the front of the head on the pass. side, then just bend some tubing or get some fuel rated hose and run it over to the carb.I'm running the S.U.s, not sure where the exact hookup for your application would be.

I see you have a 72. I would use the mechanical pump, it's the right pressure, it's rising rate, it installs easily& is reliable. (BTW.... you know there is a local Z club?)

You say the plugs are dry, and that the fuel bowls have fuel........ there is not much in between the two. If you had the carbs off check for major vacuum leaks at the gaskets including the balance tube.

1 fast z.... that 12-1 compression, is that without the modification to the piston?

I can't even come close to say how much H.P. would do this or how much H.P. would do that, but MY GOD....... to risk all that work in that head to find out! (woweee)

If your SUs are stock there is 20-25 H.P. hidden in them with some air flow improvements, just some of your labor& not spending any money.

Someone tell me what on earth has .00001 tolerance? that's one one hundred thousandth of an inch.Can that kind of tolerance be consistently duplicated? (maybe the Hubble mirror?)

Go to a hydraulic hose shop & ask for J.I.C. fittings in what ever configuration you need, they may also have barbed hose fittings.

Well gentleman.... I'd say the bar has just been raised! (indeed a very very nice piece)

Tubing is measured on the O.D. ( steel,nylon,poly,etc.) Hoses, almost all.... there are some exceptions.... are measured on the I.D. and normally measured in 116 increments. Tubing has many different wall thicknesses which reduces I.D. dimensions and in turn flow dependent on what the wall thickness is.So a #6 hose will out flow a #6 tube (both are termed as 3|8 inch) Akeizm, go to a Hydraulic hosefitting shop and inquire about JIC fittings....(Joint Industrial Council) they are the same as AN. Both seal on a 37 deg. seat. Also the threads are the same pitch. Hope this helps.

I think there might be a slight bit of confusion here. The pressure plate IS tight against the flywheel,the washer was not installed between the two. The small thin washer was added to the under side of the pressure plate bolts in addition to the stock lock washers. There are also locating pins that help line up the assembly & also share some load. The action I took stemmed from the problem I ran into of no dis-engagement of the clutch after installing an aluminum flywheel. The bolts bottomed out before the pressure plate and flywheel could be drawn up tight. It only took about a 32nd of an inch to do the job. It's been doing fine since June of 06 and I am running right at 150w.h.p. thru it.

Not to change the subject( sorry ) but, can some one tell me why Nissan made #3&4 ports nearly 3|8 wider than the other four? BTW not everyone makes their headers to match this change. So much for a "performance" item.

I like it, carbed draw thru setup.Keep us updated!

Johnc.... 208 h.p. is that wheel or crank?