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No, sorry for the confusion. I took the ignition module sensor thing out of my locked distributor and put it in the stock distributor. Just trying to figure out how to time the advance. I think.

Well, just dropped a stock L28 back in my '78. However, running into some timing problems. The distributor on the motor I got had some aftermarket sensor inside the dizzy for picking up the signal to send to the ignition module, and was running some crap aftermarket module, so I just swapped out the sensor and wheel under the rotor with an old locked distributor of mine. Just wired it back to the stock ignition module. However, now when I start it, the idle is fine, but under load until about 2k rpms, it bogs and misses slightly. Like it has no pick up at all, it will barely move. However, once about 2k rpms is reached, it picks up and runs and pulls fine. I'm guessing my problem is in the advance curve, but I don't know how to set it. Do you use just a regular timing light with the timing marks on the pulley? Any input would be appreciated. Thank you!

They did it again. And I'm considering them. Right now they're saying they'll only be released in 15x7 and 15x8, but I contacted a few of their distributors, and apparently Europe is getting them in different sizes than us and I'm pushing for 15x9/10 and 16x9/10 for the States. If it happens, I'll definitely throw a set of 16x10's all around under some ZG flares. Enough text, more pics.

Compared to my Miata, the S30 feels really big, long, heavy, and high. That's mostly because my Miata is slammed, stiff as balls, and gutted. I think with some suspension mods the Z could get up to handling standards though.

Yeah Japan had independent rear suspension in the mid sixties or so........... so.......... My guess is that you bent a LCA or something back there. Adjustable rear control arms would help adjust the toe if it's really bad. I'd recommend actually getting underneath it and looking for bent ****. That's just my two cents.

I'm actually thinking about doing the '81 - '83 NA tranny with a 3.9 diff. What kind of highway cruising RPMs do you generally get with that setup? I've seen it before, but I can't recall. I'll be freshening up the L28 a bit. I've got a shaved intake manifold and a Pallnet fuel rail off my L28ET I'll be throwing on there. Probably end up doing a 6-2-1 header with 2 1/4 exhaust back. I'm not sure if 2 1/2 will let me go low enough.

That's what I'm looking at. If the stock motor gets unbearable, which I don't see happening, those would be the first things to do on my list.

I'd rather stance it lol and make it reliable.

All good ideas and advice guys. Honestly though, I'm just tired of messing with forced induction. I like the reliability and mileage of NA, and honestly I don't care about being quick or fast. I've been driving a stock Miata for the last few months, so anything will be an improvement. I've only got about $400 in the L28ET motorset right now, and it's looking like the guy will trade me his running L28 and a set of wheels for it. That's all I need really to get it running, and after that it's just going to be maintenance and restoration.

Been thinking about this for a while. This is my current situation. Just swapped an L28ET out of an '81 into my '78. Project isn't completely done, starts and runs but roughly. Here's the thing. I want the Z to: A: be reliable. Like super reliable. Like daily driver and road trip reliable. B: get good gas mileage. For some reason, my gas mileage keeps going down the drain when I get into boost. Go figure. Honestly, I'm not really even into making it fast any more. I did my first turbo swap in high school, when I wanted it to be the fastest thing on the street, and now I'm just not really into it any more. Makes me feel kinda old. Anyway, just met a guy who just bought a good running '78. All stock. He wants to do a turbo swap. I'm thinking about trading him my '81 L28ET for his NA L28 and a set of wheels he's got. I only paid $400 for the ET setup, and in my opinion, the NA would be: A: more reliable. No tuning, less to mess with. Less parts on the engine means less parts that can break. B: get better gas mileage. Always a plus. After we swap, I'm just going to look into swapping these coilovers onto it I've got, finding a good set of wheels, restoring the interior, do some body work, put a good deck and speakers into it, and just make it a comfortable baller daily. Track down some JDM goodies for it and just drive it. Anywhere. That's where I'm at. Opinions or thoughts? Am I getting senile or just sensible? Cause honestly, I don't have the time or money for a 30 year old project car. I'm in college, and the Miata I'm driving now needs a rebuild.

Looks too much like an American Racing wheel for my tastes. I much prefer the RPF1.

I ran pretty much that exact same setup for about two years. Except I ran an 8:1 FMU and a FMIC. Not a bad setup, albeit the 'tune' is a bit shaky in the higher rpms. It pulled fairly hard and ran decent, but it was always a bit lean for my taste and I didn't really like the way the locked distributor feels. I'm just finishing a new setup, and I'll leave feedback when I get it completely running right. It would definitely be a better idea to get MegaSquirt on it and run a proper tune, but on a budget for low boost, I'd say it's reccomendable. Having done it, I question whether I would run the same setup or go MegaSquirt if I were back in the same place two years ago. If this current setup doesn't satisfy me, I'll either: A) Buy MegaSquirt and tune it. or Sell the whole motorset and go back to an NA setup. Either way, I look forward to seeing how this turns out.

Hm I've never really looked into the Z31 ECU upgrade. Does it pretty much just involve cutting the harness in front of the ecu and soldering it to the L28 harness?

So I'm thinking about slowly piecing together a NA motor to drop in the '78 for whenever the L28ET takes a dump or needs a rebuild, and I'm thinking about running this combo: L28 block and rods L28 flat top pistons N42 head 1mm HG Those specs should put me right at 9.9:1 compression ratio, and I'm thinking about a mild port and a small cam. On 91 octane, with maybe a slight tweak to the timing, it should be a fairly streetable combo. Just curious now, is anyone running this kind of setup? If so, what're you doing for a tune? Is it necessary to run full standalone, or can you reliably get away with running stock ECU and tweaking the fuel setup a bit? Thanks!

Need just what the title states. I'm a college student on a budget so please no super high prices please. And I'll pay shipping, but I need it kinda soon so close to Oklahoma City would be cool. Hit me up!

If you're going to go with a custom header, and looking for quick spool response, I'd go with a single Garrett GT2871r. Dual ball bearing, oil and water cooled, should spool quicker than the RB26 turbos. And more than capable of pushing enough boost. Don't see a whole lot of turbo L24's, but it might be worth the effort. I'd like to see it done.

DeLorean, that's pretty much exactly what mine will look like when done lol. Except mine has a rusted hood.

Yeah, not fond of the traditional fit. Its like, why do widebody without wide enough wheels to fill it? Curious as to what it looks like from the back though. Do the wheels look skinny and spaced, or do they look good? Cause I was thinking about doing that with my setup until I run across some baller wheels.

Sweet man! Post pics when you get them. I'm looking at getting the Rota Shakotans in 15x9 either -10 or -15. Looking forward to seeing this.

Here's the guy's down the street. I haven't talked to him about it yet. Haven't even met the guy. Has a lot of exterior rust, so I can only imagine what the undercarriage looks like. Sounds heavenly though.

Stivva, you got flares? How flush are the 9's?

I'll snap a pic today of the 501's. You should be able to fit 9's with a 0 offset in rear and front without a problem. If you roll the fenders slightly and don't run wider than a 205 tire they should tuck nicely.

It's dark right now but I'll go over there tomorrow and snap a pic. I personally like the 002's better, but that's just me. Plus they make them in a 15x9 lol

My bad. I have this. http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=813