KAZU

I don't have car lift so there are hard to be welded areas. For someone may not be realized where the pic is shown, showing is the behind the passenger side front wheel area. I could not see the other side of the rectangular tube mating weld. I use an inspection mirror for welding there and it worked fine at least for me. I doubt this area was painted as a new car. I estimate the chassis repair will take one more month. I'm interested in CAE ultra shifter. Shift lever without side play. Meanwhile in my car, play prevents quick shifting because of the bad connecting rod design: If you do not familiar with CAE shifters, search on YouTube. They are expensive ($900- ), and there is no CAE or equivalent shifter for Nissan/Datsun. So I fabricated a test assy for my car The shift rod is from Hayabusa handle bar The most important part of this is the side to side centering spring. Bent a spring by using TIG torch.

My bad. The chassis center was not the body center. The strut upper mounts are half an inch off to the left. The frame was cut between cross member and the TC rod brackets. The clip was replaced to the right and welded.

Left side inner steel sheet. Hood ledge was welded. Right side has been cut out. I bought LED headlamps for my z. Made in China, 45/45w hi/lo, with angel eye rings.

TC-rod bracket was cut from square tube and welded to the engine compartment frame and the floor rail. The rectangular tube which connects the TC-rod bracket and the side sill tube was replaced. The area between the frame and floor rail was closed from both sides. I couldn't do this before because I had floor-mount pedal master cylinders there. That arrangement considerably affected the chassis rigidity.

Got 5/8"-18 3" length 9T bolts for LCA and TC-rod pivots from Amazon.com because the AN bolt in similar length at Pegasus auto racing is stupidly expensive ($40/bolt). LCA bracket was welded on the E46 cross member. The bump steer was projected on wood board. Laser pointer works fine and the test revealed bump out. Because the tie rod end is already located top of the adjustment of the bump steer stud, rack was moved down 1/2". Strut upper mount sheet metal was cut out by plasma. The strut was temporary welded to the frame. The strut top mount ring was welded to bent tube. The ring is genuine BMW parts.

Thank you for encouraging me.

Thank you for your input. Yes, I released my right foot from the gas pedal after the first slide ended.

The engine had been waiting for a throttle body from China. Some of Ebay sellers sell items without stocking items on their shelf. The 80 mm throttle body fits on FReddy surge tank without modification. Throttle position sensor and cable bracket are another stories. RB26 TPS fits the D-shaped driving boss of the throttle body but with too much play. RB25NEO TPS is drived by a tab and has return spring in it, so I removed the boss from the throttle body and drill and put a suitable pin through the shaft. The throttle cable will route across above the engine. Back to the chassis work. Front frame rails have been welded to the body.

Rear turbine oil return pipe. FReddy (China copy of GReddy) has arrived. I thought there is a cast die defect but when I trimmed the meat, perforated to the water passage. Repaired by welding. The fuel rail (China copy of HKS) cannot be used with either RB25NEO or RB26 injectors. I can put the RB26 injectors and fuel rail with 1" spacers. The knock sensors are different between them. I tighten 1/4"PT plug and cut M8-1.25 thread.

The tightening torque for RB26 is correct but 400 Nm for RB25 stock crank bolt is too much.The pulley bolt of the RB25/30 is smaller in diameter than RB26's. I think the tightening torque of the RB25/30 is around 150 Nm.

Dry sump oil pan has been replaced on the RB25 block. Two of 12 exhaust manifold studs of RB25 head have been replaced with shorter M8 studs. Two of 6 manifold flanges of RB26 have been modified. Also some stud holes which were too small for M10 studs have been enlarged. RB25 block has two turbocharger oil return holes. Front of them had been plugged and identical placement with RB26. Another is located center of the RB25 block, which interfares the RB26 front turbine down pipe. I'll fabricate adapter to solve the problem.

Oil pan and oil to coolant heat exchanger have been removed. The oil pressure relief hole of this engine does not pass through the main oil gallery. So all I need to do to convert the dry sump system is put a 12AN to M18-1.5 adapter with Loctite. I don't need oil block adapter anymore.

I've gotten a RB25DET NEO6. Compared to RB26, NEO6 are dirt cheap and reliable. I removed the automatic crank bushing by z-ya's method. Automatic crankshaft does not have flywheel dowel pin. The big washer may be used with aluminum flywheel. Anyway, I don't want to put aluminum flywheel. I took off both Intake and exhaust. More to be removed. I'll put a pair of rb26 turbochargers on it. Two of the 6 manifold studs are different location.

I modified S30 lower arms and the ZCC TC-rod dog legs. It took my whole weekend.

I tested the taper reamer on the S30 stock steering arm tierod hole. Now I can adjust the bump steer with the S30 strut. I decided to keep BMW spindles for future project. Reassembled the S30 strut with the tricky roll center / bump steer / high caster spacer. The BMW stud is temporarily in because the "1 longer stud did not fit in the "17 rim. I ordered the shorter studs. Wheel is located inward than the BMW set. I am happier than before because I do not want to do fiberglass job at this time.

To make new engine mount brackets I had to remove front turbocharger. I decided to disassemble the engine. I've not checked the internal after the event, rear of the stock bnr32 turbine wheel blades had been disappeared. As expected, they went back to the combastion chambers. Also there are scratches on the rear three cylinder walls. I found some rust above the turbine oil feed hole, well known prone to be cracked area. Preventive treatment of JB Weld seems useless. I doubt this block. Reliable solution may be ordering a new N1 block but it'll take more than half year. So I am thinking to get used RB25NEO6. Anyway the block and oil pan went back into the car to finalize the flame repair/modification. Modified the PZ31 engine mount brackets. Laser indicates chassis center line. Measured the suspension geometry. Shock shaft is located outside the stock strut tower. The tie rod was horizontal. Steering rack should be raised because there is not enough room for bump steer adjustment in the 18 inch wheel. I've gotten longer bump steer studs and corresponding taper reamer BEFORE checking the wheel clearance. Modified steering rack mount. Raised and the steering shaft tilted. The rack shaft angle is steep in BMW 3 series and Z4 because their distance from steering rack to steering wheel is shorter and steering wheel is located higher than S30. Oil pan has already got recessed for rack.

Update. Flaming River U-joints, 16.5mm-36-spline to "3/4 DD and "3/4-48-spline to "1 DD fit onto Suzuki EPS column and Z4 rack, respectively. The 16.5mm-36-spline actually is not for Suzuki but for Mustang. Also the other spline is not for BMW but for American oval/dirt components. Reinforcement plates were welded near the engine mounting bolt holes. Well known to be prone to cracking. Cross member of E46 has positioning bosses at the rear mounting bolts. I fabricated reinforcements/nut fixtures and let them slipped into the frames and welded. Test fit. Internal distance is wider than stock so that Genuine BMW engine mount rubbers can be used. Frame are not horizontal, but raised at the front. The angle from horizontal was around 3 degree. I've gotten Bimmerworld bump steer kit. The tie rod end almost bind near the 1 G height and the bump steer adjusting range is limited. I ordered two pairs of the high misalignment rod ends from QA1 and a pair of "1 longer bump steer studs from Allstar. The frame rails and cross member are placed up side down. I tried to figure out how I fabricate the TC-rod bracket. I'm considering the heim bolt to be placed vertical for anti-dive adjustment.

I visited that nice guy's home when he was located in Long Island. I bought an ARE dry sump pan from Electramotive 280zx turbo.

I looked in-car video and logging data. My understanding is that the counter-steer was too late and not enough. So the most effective solution may be joining some drifting training events with low grip tires. At the hair-pin exit (around 4'40") http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UR9oIHBrDSE

Both sides of front frame have bent. I decided to replace rectangular tubes. Advantage is that this is good opportunity for me to put the BMW front suspension. Also, I have realized that the steering feedback was weak. I found and bought correct spline u-joints for Z4 rack and Suzuki EPS column from Framing River.

Awesome build! Subscribed.

Mine were took out today and found the right side dog-leg was slightly bent. Clevis threaded shaft was straight. I think this has happened when I hit the right front rim on the road side rock. The damages of the rim and the shock rod were worsen and trashed. The clevises in the plastic bags are HAL-CL6-10 from Summit. Identical shape, carbon steel, $5.97 each. If I were in your shoes, I'd fabricate CrMo plates and check the straightness frequently and/or change the clevis(es) like socks. Also I'd use the longer tubes for more thread engagement.

TTT TC rods look like stronger, at least no clevis threaded shaft. Adjusting threads are located the other end where the bend moment may be ignored. But their fixed angle dog-leg do not allow adjusting the tread width and caster angle. My guess is that the clevis shaft bent slightly under the threshold braking which worsened the situation. Already bent clevis got bent more easily. Finally under the hard braking or the corner carving the LCA rotation was stopped by the ball joint motion limit, then both the clevis and dog-leg bent simultaneously.

You can see in this figure how it happened. Combination of TTT lca with Datsun Parts LLC TC rod was bad. I also have Datsun Parts LLC TC rods with lengthened Nissan lca. It survived major crash which bent shock rod and wheel rim. More thread engagement than yours.

Correct.This is my first high hp motor which easily lose tire grip by right foot pedal. I need some skill-up training to drive it.