boodlefoof

Other than swapping the crank, the main considerations in a stroker build are going to be clearance issues... i.e., you don't want the crank hitting the block or oil pan anywhere and you don't want the rods hitting the cam. To avoid these problems, you may have to do some grinding on your block and rods, or may have to buy other pieces that will give you the clearance you need. Also, changing the stroke will change the piston's position in the bore... you will probably need new pistons. But pistons tend to be something you replace during any rebuild anyway. Another thing is the balance of the rotating assembly. You may need a different flexplate or flywheel, and possibly even a different harmonic balancer because of the new crank. You can buy new rotating assemblies that are "internally balanced" just like a standard 350 cubic inch small block, but the majority are "externally balanced" and will require the different parts mentioned in this paragraph. There are probably some other points I'm forgetting as well.

Any time you increase the crank stroke, you have "stroked" the engine and therefore have a "stroker." This increases the engine's displacement. The "stroke" refers to the length of the crank throw... basically it refers to the distance the piston will move up and down in the bore. The typical 350 small block chevy uses roughly a 3.5'' stroke. The crank used in a 383 stroker is typically a 3.75'' stroke crank. Alternatively, one can "de-stroke" an engine by putting in a crank with a shorter stroke. For example, you could put a 3.25'' stroke crank into that same small block and build a 327 cubic inch engine.

I know a lot of racetrack guys running Coan brand torque converters who swear by them. Might want to look them up as well. Good luck with the project! I'm considering going TT eventually too, but man! That is going to be incredible!

Information on this setup is sparse... go check out www.corner-carvers.com for more info on the setup. It has been discussed quite a bit. From my own research, I've found the following information that might be of help to you... anti-squat is defined by the side view swing arm length, wheelbase, and center of gravity. The SVSAL is defined by the angles of the upper and lower arms. You can determine the SVSAL by drawing an imaginary line from the control arms toward the front of the car untill they intersect. The distance between the intersection point and the axle should normally be no less than 45" to prevent brake hop. The upper arm should be level or pointing down sllightly toward the front of the car, depending on whether you prefere neutral roll steer or a slight amount of roll understeer. Make the arms as long as possible. There is much discussion on the possibility of binding with a triangulated 4-link and spherical bearings at all 8 points. One person running a satchell responds "I drove the car without swaybars to exagerate body roll, there was no binding or snap oversteer, very predictable." One can tune with a swaybar instead of changing RC heights by using an adjustable bar. With parallel-in-plan-view uppers, the suspension's roll axis is defined by the point of intersection of the angled lowers (think plan view, then side view) and the slope of the uppers as seen in side view. In turn, the suspension roll axis defines the roll steer (that being the tangent of the suspension roll axis slope, expressed either as a decimal or a %). And the RC moves upward as the UCA down-angle is increased. You'll probably want a little static down angle on the uppers just to maintain a minimal amount of vehicle roll understeer around the static ride height (neutral throttle cornering) to slightly above that position. But you don't want to have a lot, because lots of roll U/S, say 10% or more, is clumsy during slalom maneuvers. Worse, it becomes a roll oversteer tendency should you ever lift off the throttle (or touch the brake) while cornering hard.

Looks great! My father-in-law has started collecting tractors and has three so far. They're a lot of fun.

If you want some more pics and writeup of a novice's first attempts at doing major fiberglass work you can check out my webpage. I used the same (or at least very similar) techniques to Terry (thanks again for all of your help Terry!). Haven't done the hood yet, but I've got the quarter panels and fenders done... now the long process of sanding. I went with 2 layers of 7.5 oz cloth, then 2 layers of 4 oz cloth. This makes for a fairly stiff piece... but it does still have a little give if you push on it hard. Take a look. http://www.geocities.com/boodlefoof/Project_Racer-Zfiberglass

Check this out... almost hit 200mph in that one. http://zhome.com/History/Electramotive/DevTrubo.htm

Update: Decision regarding windows... Hey all. I think I've made a decision regarding windows... I met a fellow the other week who is running "Speed Glass." It is like lexan, but has a special coating which is more resistant to scratching. It is not to be confused with another product called "Mar Less" or "Mar Glass." Anyway, this guy uses the 5/16'' stuff for his windshield and runs wipers on it. Gave me a demonstration and sure enough... no scratches. Just thought I'd pass it along... When I eventually buy and install the stuff myself I'll give a better product review.

I'm going with C5 'Vette tail lights on my project. Using the euro version which incorporates the backup light. I think they look sweet. ; )

I'm personally debating between a three link and a satchell link for my road racing 240Z project myself. Not many people are running a satchell, so I've only received limited first hand remarks on that setup. The three link is more popular. You could take a look over at www.corner-carvers.com for some good information... but beware if you post. With some exceptions, they aren't the friendliest bunch on the whole.

Don't know what would fit easily in your space confines, but I generally really like the sound of Borla mufflers. Never heard them behind an LS1, but everything I've heard them on sounds nice... quiet at idle and mellow at cruise, but let's you know something ain't stock at WOT. I've also heard that the Dynomax Super Turbo, while relatively inexpensive, is one of the better flowing and mellower sounding mufflers out there.

I give it two thumbs up!

Ideally you want to build longer control arms and a revised spindle to reap the benefits of both greater track width and reduced scrub.

I would personally sacrifice track width for better scrub radius myself.

Is that a red first gen Camaro I see? My other love... I have a '68. I like the shaved handles. I'm going to be doing something similar to mine in the near future. I haven't quite finalized my plans yet though.

Kraymond, It came out this spring I believe... March of April maybe?

I subscribe to Super Chevy magazine and they did an entire issue that revolved around LS1/LS6 retrofits on older cars. They also did a piece on the ins and outs of the LS engine. According to the article, the block got a little bit of a re-working in '99. I seem to recall that this was done to improve oiling... Anyway, they seemed to think that the '99 and newer blocks were a little better of a starting point. I don't personally know enough about it to comment from any experience.

Congrats!

Just wanted to update this thread... I've been told that Scoggin Dickey Chevrolet has released their price on the LS7 engine complete from intake to oil pan and including exhaust manifolds... $13k. Not sure if this includes the wiring harness or computer.

In my opinion, the infinite voltage control is a very nice feature... particularly if you're doing cosmetic sheet metal welding.

400 some horsepower in a 2500 pound car (roughly) versus a 400 some horsepower in a 3500 pound car (roughly). Unless you've got some traction issues or something... he shouldn't be able to beat you. I love Camaros, but power to weight ratio is where it is at! Now, if this is an older Camaro... it might weigh in at closer to 3100 pounds and make for a bit closer of a race. Keep it on the track... tell him loser pays the winner's entry and tech fees.

I've got a Millermatic 175 and it is excellent. It is a 230v welder and getting a more powerful machine is well worth waiting and spending a few extra bucks. You can get a 175 for around $600-$650. It comes with a regulator and everything you need to get started (except gas, and of course a helmet and gloves...) The Millermatic 135 is also a nice machine, and is what I would get if I had gone with a 120v machine. The real nice feature of both of these I've mentioned is the infinite voltage and wire speed settings... no click dials. When you're welding thin sheetmetal, this is really helpful in making nice welds. Also, Miller is known for its customer service should you have any problems. Alternatively, if you're a Lincoln guy... go for the SP 135 plus. It is basically the exact same machine as the Millermatic 135. If you plan on doing any heavy fabrication work... get a 230v machine. It is what I'm going to be building my custom tube-frame with.

Well, I find that half the difficulty in doing any car project is just getting up the nerve to start cutting and tearing it apart. That and having proper tools... ; )

Mike, I hear you on not needing as much power as I'm planning. I just love turbochargers! : ) And, I like to do things a little different than the norm... just for fun. I've been thinking of a few different possibilities for engines, some based on the newer gen III platform and some based on the old gen I platform. I've also been considering more exotic powerplants... but probably won't go with something that replacement parts aren't easily available for. I like the weight savings of the aluminum blocks on the gen III small blocks... but of course aftermarket aluminum blocks are available in all shapes and sizes. In the end... we'll see what the funds allow. Thinking about an engine is still a way down the road for me... have to finish the body and then build the custom chassis and suspension first.

I probably won't be the first... but I think I'll be ready to start thinking about a powerplant for my project in about 2 years. At present I've been tossing around the idea of a turbocharged LS2 or possibly LS7 (dry sump will allow me to mount the engine lower) if I can afford it. But, we'll see if anything better comes along between now and then. Gonna need some power to get this car competitive in Open Road Racing!