boodlefoof

Horrible... absolutely horrible... Yeah, the rear tire fitment thing is pretty bad... but the car also looks like it is sticking its tongue out at us.

Very snazzy!

There are some great lessons for life in there... just sit around all day and become a vegetable... that's freedom baby!

Go for it! I seem to recall that Eastwood sells a kit for casting things like this... might be useful. Also, I recall awhile back that a company was making custom Camaro fender emblems in 383, 502, etc... I tried searching google and found a vendor selling them, but not the company that makes them. If you can find them, they may make other number combos as well.

Pardon my ignorance... but by "Euro" do you mean it was sold in Europe? I'm curious why the speedometer measures MPH not KPH if this is the case.

I personally find the infinite voltage control to be a wonderful thing... particularly with thinner metals. I have a MM 175. I did a little welding with some lower end welders in the past, and was still a novice when I bought the MM 175. It is a wonderful machine. The infinite adjustability didn't make welding any more difficult, and this machine welds so much better than those machines I've used without infinite adjustability (Lincoln Weld Pak 100, and another little Lincoln without infinite voltage adjustability). As for learning, just practice! Really, get some scraps and start sticking them together. If you find yourself having trouble, then try the local community college or find someone with experience who can give you some pointers. Good luck with the purchase.

I used FatMat to do my '68 Camaro and it took about 70 sq. ft. That did front and rear firewall and the entire floor (two layers over muffler area). The Z interior is obviously much smaller... but if you want to do doors and roof, 70' might do you.

I'm planning on building my 240 with a solid rear axle as well, but setting it up for the road course. I'm planning on either a three link with panhard (which is what everyone and their mother runs at the track) or going with a Satchell link. For straight line action, the Satchell looks like it would be a good choice, while being able to retain some handling. Just depends on how you set the angles. As far as installation, I'd think you might as well build a chassis for it. I think it would be less trouble than trying to graft the Z body onto another car that may only have a marginally stronger chassis anyway. Also, if you build it you know it will handle the abuse. I agree with Michael on the big block. If you're going to do it, might as well get more cubes out of it. Build the power and then build the chassis and suspension to get it to hook up. (and get out the wheelie bars... )

Nice car! I am pretty fond of the old Ghibli (late 60s/early 70s era) myself. When you chop the top and rake back the windshielf of a Z, they have a pretty similar profile. The Ghibli... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Ghibli_I.jpg The Chopped-Top Z http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101672&highlight=chop+top

That's how my floor looks at present too! After I lay up the custom fiberglass, time to cut that stuff out!

Where in Virginia is the car located?

To those contemplating the purchase of a MIG welder... This past summer I finally bought a welder for myself and I went with a MIG. Mostly because I already had some experience with a MIG. I looked at, and "test drove" a lot of welders before committing to a purchase. In the end I decided on a Millermatic 175, which is just a wonderful machine. I got it on sale at a local supply house for $600 with a cart. Then add bottle and helmet... up to around $750. When I "test drove" the welders, I was amazed by the huge difference in quality of performance. Some of the cheaper ones don't strike an arc well, and of course they have limited adjustability. Towards the middle of my search, I was torn between the Lincoln SP-135 and the Millermatic 135. Both are very user friendly and weld well. They have the power to do up to 1/8'' very well and can weld the thinnest of sheetmetal (they have infinite voltage adjustability). I was leaning towards the Miller due to some reports of bad customer service at Lincoln. But in the end... I tried the Millermatic 175, a 230v machine. I knew I would be doing some frame work in the future, and this thing had the power to weld some really heavy stuff... yet I can still do 24 ga. sheet metal! Only downside, it required doing some wiring at the house to put a 230v outlet in the garage. Basic moral of the story - infinite voltage adjustability in a 230v machine strikes me as being the best of both worlds.

If you're only getting 500 horses out of a turbo small block chevy... somethin' ain't right.

Sounds like a lot of wiring. I'm with Mark, wiring is a pain in the butt! Look forward to seeing the pics.

To see pics of my '68 Chevy Camaro, '90 300ZXTT, and '73 240-Z (in progress) check my website. www.geocities.com/boodlefoof

That was awesome! Thanks for posting that.

With sandblasting, you should wear a respirator. Breathing in all of that silica dust is no good... Do you have a yard at all? When I did some sandblasting on my '68 Camaro, I just set up a wooden backing wall in the back yard and laid a tarp on the ground to catch as much sand as I could (so I could reuse it). If some of it got into the grass, it was no big deal. As for a blasting medium... I stick with regular sand. I tried using "slag" for sandblasting... but even the finest grain just kept clogging my gun.

I would love to see them bring back the Camaro and still hold out hope that GM will finally pull its head out of its backside... And hopefully any new Camaro wont look like crap... I have also heard some rumors. A few individuals who work for GM have made comments that something is coming... whether it is a Camaro or not they cannot say... but we "will be pleased." I hope they are right.

About a year and a half ago I refinished the interior of my '68 Camaro, and I used FatMat as a sound deadener. Overall, I am pleased with it. First, it is really cheap compared to some of the other products out there. I bought 100 sq. ft. for around $125 shipped. Application is a snap... the stuff cuts and conforms very easily. It also did a great job deadening the sound in the car. I can now listen to the radio just fine, and can hold conversations without having to yell. The only down sides I found were as follows: (1) it doesn't do much to block heat and (2) shipping was kind of slow... it took about 3 weeks to get the stuff.

Looks like an excellent find! Congrats!

Might not be exactly what you're looking for, but this link may be of interest to you. http://www.twistmachine.com/

eh, I've found that acetone tends to work best for degreasing myself.

I agree, sure sounds like a vacuum leak.

Yeah, 2000 is just the target weight. If I'm a bit over, I'm not going to complain. The power to weight ratio is still going to be pretty high. ; )

I've got one (different brand) called a "Tilt Lift." It pivots like a see saw... you drive up on it, the front comes down, then you pull some pins and the rear "legs" fall down to keep it horizontal. It beats the heck out of jack stands! And I got it for free. I'm sure you could find these things used pretty cheaply, or weld one together.