nope

hey evildky, any progress on the install? i think im about to buy these too, so yea show us whats up! john

These look like the best camber plate option in my opinion, just anxious to see how they turned out for you. Are you going to use the full coilover setup they supply? john

Cool thanks Jon. Well in that case (and hopefully the TTT setup is the same) the spring hat is fine being pressed up against the monoball unit as in the first pic. However, the spring hat will never tilt as seen in the second pic due to the shaft clearance I was asking about. The spring hat will take 100% of the axial (vertical) spring load and transmit it into the entire camber plate and not the monoball. As the suspension goes through its travel and the strut changes angle, the spring will compensate by shearing (or bowing) in a sense which is totally harmless. Kinda like a slinky if you were to move the top to the left and the bottom to the right but keeping all the rings flat against each other. Meanwhile, the shock shaft pivots at the monoball correctly in the space within the spring coil. As far as loading of the monoball, it takes 100% of the shock load only. As far as side loads.. I can’t picture any other than insignificant vibration. For the TTT setup, the needle bearing between the spring hat and monoball unit is just there to allow rotation while steering and protect other parts over time due to constant un-fixed contact and vibration. Otherwise its aluminum on aluminum, and that wears pretty bad. It looks like the arizona z setup has the aluminum spring hat jammed right up under the aluminum monoball holder with nothing in between. 1 fast z, your spacer idea might be intuitive but I think it’s also more harmful by putting all of the suspension load (spring + shock) straight into the monoball. I don’t know if youve driven your car like that but I would be afraid of hitting a hard bump and blowing the monoball straight through the aluminum lip on top that’s holding it in. So evildky, the monoball is needed for the strut to pivot without bending shock shaft. Also, the spring hat does not pivot with the strut because of the clearance it has from the shock shaft. Hopefully this makes sense since I’ve yet to play with any of these camber plate setups but this is what I gather from checking out pictures and stuff. Here’s a ms-paint thing I drew to help explain what I wrote.

Hey just wondering if the shock shaft slip fits into the top spring hat or is there a bunch of clearance. If there's clearance from the OD of the shock shaft and the ID of the spring hat, what is that difference in diameter? Post some pics of this if you can. There should be clearance and if there is then i can probably answer your question. Btw, I'd like to hear more about how the setup is working for you, I was planning on ordering them this coming week. Good luck.

someone needs to put in some RSX type-s seats. I used to own an integra and the seats were great. The RSX seats are even nicer. I've got a cast on my left arm now, but when my arm is cool ive got a seat project similar to what i made for this little autox car i built with some friends. I'll probably get my friends wife to show me how to add a little bit of padding and upholstery though. carbon-kevlar seat for autox car: 2004-5 autox car complete for those interested:

lol funny photoshop. i suggest no "Z" on hood though. regular pic from front looks cool. any shots of the entire car?

Bump I too would like some info on the rear flares please. thread mentioning flare info: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=588987#post588987 im pretty sure Jon is right about them being MSA IMSA flares i found them on this site as well: http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240Z-p-4INCHFLAIR.JPG

singles are like 673576342523657655x better. theyre fundamental to the z look. drawings of doubles are good but in reality would look like an ebay honda conversion. doubles would probably only look fitting on a z more stylized than any of us own. but yea singles still own. great sketches.

lol funny.

maybe use a heatgun and massage the plastic..? quad bulb would be cool. good luck.

sorry man, but ive had an 04 R6 for 2 years, same thing as your 03 and its sitting in my garage with my z. test it out if you dont believe me. All bikes i can think of that have 2 sides for headlights (ie. not suzukis) are like this.. one side is for low beam, the other for high. at night youll see bikes that look like they have one light out, thats just the low beam setting (unless they run highs at night, which i do too). seriously test them before you do any cutting. even if the wiring is modded with dual filament bulbs the projection angles will be tweaked, one will be much higher than the other. the last thing im trying to do is spoil your plans, im just trying to point out the not-so-obvious before you make permanent changes to your car to incorporate those lights.

sorry if this jacks up your plans, but im sure it will. the r6 headlights arent the same left to right. although it looks like there are 4 lights, youll notice in the back there are only 2 bulbs. light from each bulb is just split into 2 lenses. so the bad news is that one side is low beam and the other is high beam. to clarify, the whole left side points light down and the whole right side points light up. had an 04 R6 and thought i should say something before you go cutting up your car - or those headlights. dont know if you planned on tilting the internals of the headlights, but yea i dont think you were, and i dont think you can.

just wondering how much if i stopped by to pick one up? i was planning on making my own but im like 40 mins away and id like to see some SR install work if youve got any going on. crashed my R6 so im selling the bike parts to get the SR.

haha my car is pretty much a no engine beater still, i did some interior insulation work like 2-layer fatmat everywhere and 1-layer heat insulation everywehre and new carpet kit (1/2 way installed). Other than that, its just the brake kit, suspension bushings, LCAs and wheels/tires. ill trim the inner fender when i decide what im going to do with the flares (bolt on or mold on) and when i have the struts out to switch to coilovers. At that point i can do all the trimming and fender work and clean up/recoat the wheel wells before reinstalling the struts. Ive posted some other pics here and there, i guess just search for my posts.. should be a few. Ill upload more soon and create a gallery or something. cant move my car out of the garage right now, new tires are pressing up against the spring perches just enough to make it really hard to push the car. sucks. nice wheels btw

i was planning on putting in these black 240sx tail lights i bought a short while back, but i just bought Z4 tail lights. ill post some hold-up pics once i get them on wednesday. not really sure how well theyll fit, but i saw a Z4 the other day when i was riding home and i thought damn those might look good on my z. when i got home i found a REALLY good deal on ebay for some 2005 OEM lights with bulbs, had to get them. was also thinking i could kinda tilt them down on the inner sides just a bit to make them look "angry". if these Z4 lights work out, ill have some nice brand new black-housing, red-light 240sx tail lights for sale, with center bar.. but that wont fit on a z. comments?

theyre the 5zigen fn01r-c wheels. 17x10 (285/40-17) rear and 17x9 (255/45-17) in front. The 10inch wide ones are cool because theyre the only ones with the spokes that are kinda gnarled, like a 5-legged crouched spider. delicate powder coat though, but i think thats true for all black wheels.. especially the matte finish ones. pic haha u can see my oscar the grouch costume in the back. (made it out of one of my old helmets) lol, b|tch i live in a fukin trashcan!

got the AZC kit recently too plus wheels tires and bearings and the LCAs. my wallet is recovering for those coilovers though. pics.

Hey I saw your car there when i went to check out vildini last summer. Interesting bodywork. Nice car.

get an angle grinder with a wire wheel on it. Itll take any surface rust off in just a couple minutes. That way you can see the extent of the rust penetration and decide whether you need replacement panels. But just by looking at those pics, im pretty sure all youll have is fresh metal under there. Then you can rust proof it however you like. This is what i did and it couldnt have turned out better. Afterward I double layer dynamatted everything, then heat insulated everything, and got new molded carpet. Good luck, whichever method you use.

haha. way to kick an idea in the nuts. funny.

if youre real slick you would mount your underbody to your suspension. constant ground clearance. realized that when i was making a carbon fiber underbody for a Formula SAE car my team was building the other year. however its not incredibly practical on a z. whatever though.. doooit.

ztard, hows that dash coming along? im just starting on my hood project. maybe you, me and owen should meet up one of these weekends?

twoeightnine, thanks for the response. My rear wheel offset is like 12mm and like 15mm in front and ive got flares. Im still saving up for and SR20 after dropping a bunch of cash on the AZC brake kit. After that ill go for the coilovers since ill need the car to move. Right now the spring perch rubbing is so bad the car wont roll haha. Are there camber plates you can get to work with the MMS coilovers?

Can anyone tell me which coilover kit is the narrowest, ie. provides the most perch to wheel clearance? Ive got 10" wheels (with 285s) in the rear and 9" (with 255s) in the front that i just put on and the tires rub on the stock perch, a little in the front and pretty hard on the rears. Simply looked at the AZC and MMS kits as of yet. thanks.

i turned in my rusty 35 year old 240z calipers as cores for the toyota s12w fatties. you usually have to return the core in the box the new part came in.. should have seen my little piece of crap caliper chillin in the bottom corner of the huge toyota box. lol, so you should be alright.