dj paul

is that a picture of our evaporators? if it is i pulled one out of my car. i was thinking it was the blower motor or something which now that i think about it is a part of the assembly itself. i never had this car working when i got it so i didnt know what the hell it was. so i could just buy the other stuff and be ok?

yes exactly, so you think i could do it fairly easy?

for some reason i cant get the picture to post up right. but it has the controls for heat, defrost, cool and different fan levels. so its the actual whole assembly that does everything. im gonna ask the guy if i can get more pictures but it looks like it would work well.

right, oh and actually all this surplus stuff is on ebay. compressor -$10 condenser-$20 other stuff was like 5 and 10 bucks. honda and saab stuff looked pretty decent to use. i couldnt find this out, but isnt the thermostat usually on the evaporator assembly? since it has the controls and crap already on it?

jesus! thats crazy. looks like a lot of work but not exactly hard to do compared to my damn rust bucket restoration. i like how they set it far back as they could to help balance it. thats going to be a nice *** z. its definately going to be able to kill vipers, you all think it would be able to handle the c06? i think so.

lol, its alright. im going to draw up a few designs and put them into a stress calculation program and see the weak points under certain forces. we are currently doing the same thing at school for a dune buggy project. we try and make the stuff fail so we see design flaws and such. their ca's are a bit different though, lol. also i appreciate the suggestion about the jag piece, but that thing's ugly as balls. i dont want that under my car! lol. id rather just design my own piece and put my in training engineering skills to work!

sure, thankyou. like i mentioned up there, i have seen one succesful install but he was using junkyard parts that had the old refrigerant in it and didnt have everything out of his car like i do now, including the dash. i did not even know how the hell ac worked untill i saw these http://autorepair.about.com/od/generalinfo/l/bldef020.htm http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ab_auto_air_conditioning/0,2020,DIY_13674,00.html now from what im reading there are two types of systems, an expansion system and and something else that wasnt used as much. supposedly as long as you stay with components from only one of these systems then you should be ok. also, from what im reading, the hardest part is routing the stuff through the dashboard and all that, which my dashboard is in my basement right now! the hose systems and all that crap would be greatly appreciated though. i hate the extra weight that it adds but everytime my friend stops he has to open up the door and wave it around because its so hot in there. and plus this thing would only cost about $50 max because ive found a bunch of surplus new parts from older cars and newer cars.

ok cool man, thanks. from what i said does that sound like a decent setup? ive been reading about this so i know some lines have to be able to expand a little and some have to be hard so they keep a constant pressure. any tips on where to get the lines for this that refrigerant wont leak thru?

i have access to an industrial tig and a jig and chromoly tubing. could someone with either the arizona zcar or msa adjustable rear control arms give me some detailed drawings? if not ill just have to figure it out on my own =( lol. i dont think anything like i was drawing above would be needed now that i think about it. i just thought it would be kind of fun. Terry's idea seems interesting but does seem like it wouldnt be needed anyways unless on a pure track car. thanks paul

to change over from drums you need a bracket or something similar that Modern Motorsports and MSA sell. Supposedly if you can find a old rwd maxima they have a bracket that you can use for this because otherwise these are about 150 or so. if you have a friend that knows how to machine anything you can measure stuff or maybe get measurements from a person on here with the brackets and then they can make it for you. you just cut off whats behind the drum basically. its pretty simple. im not positive if you can use the MC but if yours is working ok i wouldnt bother with it. My guess would be you can use it. if you can get it really cheap i probobly would do it anyways. air conditioning from the zx would be nice, if it has it. i dont think you can use the vented rotors unless you have the zx calipers as well (correct me if im wrong). then again, i dont mind having parts laying around so if you can get this stuff really cheap i would just go and get it anyways.

anyone? normally i wouldnt mind waiting for a while but i need to know asap if i can piece this together with some work, because this stuff is limited.

Hey guys, ive been reading up on AC and it actually looks pretty easy if you can find all the correct hoses and such. What i was thinking about doing, was taking the evaporator assembly out of a mitsubishi 3000gt. it has the controls and everything with it and can be easy modded to fit in current dash. i found an expansion valve out of a 280ZX a drier assembly out of a nissan stanza (bout size of coke can), compressor off of old datsun 210 or something. (it was an L series motor), and a condensor off of i dont know what yet. ive read about a guy rigging ac up in his car but i dont know what parts he used. seems like he had a lot of trouble since he got stuff from junk yard. This is all new stuff so i would have to flush out old refrigerant (since it solidifies when mixed with new) and i already have vent hoses and such and the entire dash is out right now. im just wondering is this as easy as i think? would basically all i have to do is hook this stuff up to the 3000gt "climate control"?

id prob just drill some drainage holes, or maybe just cut that area out and leave it open so that the water can just fall out of it. i have the same problem and im replacing it with new metal but leaving an area open for it to vent, not sure of design yet though because im working on other things.

well i guess i might just put all this effort into making some custom rear lca's. my sway bar end link hole on one rlca got tore up i could prob just weld plates in there and a strong washer but i like the look of those custom rlca's (but dont have money!)

well im not having the problem yet. my cars not even road worthy. i have my entire car apart right now and am just having "while im down here" syndrome. if angles were correct would either of these setups have any benefit? or should i just leave this crap alone? like i said my car is going to be around 500rwh and i dont wanna do this stuff again (spindle pins) for a while.

i was wondering something like this, im thinkin since noones done this yet (as it seems a bit simple) im guessing that for some reason it wont work, or just wont make ne difference at all. now keep in mind here im not worried about adjusting camber, i just want a stronger rear end. everythings gonna be poly bushings so that will help a lot. as you can see there is a little bracket that is welded onto the strut tube itself, and right off of it is a monoball to allow vertical movement and that attaches to a similar setup on the upper rear subframe. is this even worth it? i dont even think it would be too hard and it would be kind of fun to do. but would this just be added weight? or would it actually help strengthen it.

both look like good places to get ideas from, thanks guys. what im thinking about doing..... when i build the frame for my fuel cell, im going to tie it in to either side of the rear subframe (you know on either side of the spare tire well?) and box it in. im thinking about making a gusset attached to this to get the upper arms with a bent arm like on the 240sx. this the gains from this would be worth it? i dont even believe it would be that hard as im pretty good with this stuff. and one more question, use monoballs? if i do this i will def post step by step stuff so you all can use it, youll just have to stamp "DJ PAULS IDEA" on each of the bars. lol...

oh ive seen that, what im trying to accomplish is a similar, stronger setup that i could make myself with some fabbing. not the whole rear end but just some of those components you see in the picture i posted for adjustability and strength in the outer portions of the arms. im poor as hell right now so im either looking to do something like this, or at least get some 280z rear control arms since they are supposedly stronger but i cant find any for sale.

want to give me one and ill do it and then send you stuff you need to do it as payment for the tranny itself?

thanks man. anyone happen to have any pictures of those irs' similar in view to mine above? i tried google search but couldnt really find good ones. so you think that would be better/easier? cuz im thinking what i see above would be fairly easy. im just looking to impede any movement except for up and down.

thanks for the info. i sent him an email. it comes in manual too correct? i just cant stand automatics unless you are drag only.

Hey guys, ive looked in some threads about this stuff back in 2001 or something. There was talk of adapting supra 6 speeds to l series motors. also there was talk of t56's i doubt this would be a direct swap. i can probobly get the bellhousing modded to fit on the motor, but does anyone know what the output spline is like? i really dont want to make a custom driveshaft. but im guessing it would be bigger so it could handle more torque. main reason for this swap would be gas mileage, newer tranny technology, and the ability to play around with five gears while keeping a 6th in reserve. (car is eventually going to be around 500rwhp) any new news that i havent seen yet?

Hey guys, I was just wondering. i know the 240sx rear subframe has been done and even an r33. but is there any way for us to design, without swapping the rear subframe, to get a design not exactly like this, but similar? for some reason, it doesnt seem like it would be that hard to me to do. especially the upper arm. we might not need the rest, but as discussed in the other thread, some people are getting some forward movement of the rear tires on hard launches. now im pretty good at fabricating, and whatever i cant do my friend can. just let me know is this possible? with just some fabbing? i am going to school for engineering so i can get some friends to do stress testing and help me design stuff. i just think this upper arm would help greatly in the strength of our rears, allowing better grip for better launches.since the 240sx rear subframe can be put in our cars with some fabbing, i would think that this can be done. i know the actual stub axle does not have this stuff on it but it could be welded on correct? like say, use 2 monoballs on both joints of that rear upper control arm? and if it would help, the forward link. im not sure if we would even need the toe link, or am i wrong in thinking this. i think this would be great for cheap assess on our cars and would greatly spread out stress. my car is eventually going to have around 400-500 rwhp. and while im down here, (hmmm...... where have i heard that before? ) and i have the entire car torn down, id like to see if i can desing something liek this. any questions, comments, motivations speeches(lol) etc. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Paul

anyone have pictures of these 280z rear CA's? or have some i could buy?

i just removed my rear deck stuff and cut out my spare tire well last night. under the rear deck sound deadening i found some wierd metal formations right behind the compartments along with some rust. not bad, but needs to be ground down or possibly cut out. (im paranoid about rust, look at my site and ull see why) the metal formations are hard to describe, you know how a rock looks if water has been flowing over it for a very long time? it has like little valleys in it and almost looks warped. its still very strong but i was just wondering if this was normal.