dj paul

Alright, i have a rebuilt 280zx turbo p79 head (without hydrolic lifters), an N47 head (that would need rebuild), and e31 head(need rebuild). previously i had seen/thought/found that the p79 head would have the best flow characteristics due to its turbo nature, on a turbo motor. i found (just on one site) but am just making sure, that the n42 head is the most disireable head. Im building a L28 motor with flat top pistons NPR Intercooler t3/t4 .63 trim turbo Megasquirt with custom fuel rail and delivery system. im guessing the compression would be around 9:1 with p79 on flattop? 9.5-10:1 with E31 and like 8.5 with n47? tell me if im wrong but am i correct in thinking the rebuilt p79 would be the best for my set up? P.S. Yes i have searched =) thanks in advance, paul

sounds like you all are doing nice work. keep it up and dont get discouraged. im working in a carport when its 20 degrees! i put tarps up on the side and bought a nice carhart jumpsuit and a bunch of 1000w lights, those things are so warm you almost dont need a heater.

not all undercoatings are gooey. eastwood sells a nice hard drying one. i believe it can even be painted. the problem with bedliner is, its realy heavy (relatively speaking). if your just cruising i would go this route but if your like me, and light and fast is your style. then purchase a quality undercoating. im doing beliner over por-15 as substitute for carpeting in my floors (i think, still cant decide) and using eastwoods undercoating with their spray system ($50 bucks)

i have a set of those on my maxima i got them for 400 with tires from my buddy. they look blingin'

ya check out my site, you can see what my floors were like and what they are like now. ive used baddogs stuff and its awesome, strenghtening rails, swaybar mounts, and seat brackets. and i got my floorpans from zeddfindings

i just put new pictures up on my site, picture quality isnt great because im using my palm as a camera and its dark outside. but you can see how the bad dog frame rails help tie into to the front of the car. i put these rails over new rails that i lined with por-15 and then i plug welded them together. i replaced the floors, rails, and part of the firewall. hope this gives some insight!

definately would be cool

im using bad dog frame rails ove my brand new ones to help tie into the front better, if you look at my site, youll see why i dont think its overkill (for me) my front suspension basically fell off the car because of the rust. i am going to update the pictures later on today so you all can see the most recent, ive done a lot since the last pictures on my site. hopefully i can help some people out, and people can give me suggestions if i need to be doing anything else or good idea.s paul

i believe this should be a sticky

thanks for the pictures and info guys, id like a set of those, but dont need them for a little bit. if you need time testing and stuff i can wait. but also could get them now.

does anyone have any pictures of how these would be used? i saw the one by 240hoke and that helps a little, how much would i have to modify my suspension bracket? if i got these from you?

just like to chime in here that that thing is badass. by the way, you all have any info on getting those taillights for 240zs? ive always loved the skyline taillights

thankyou thats what i thought

i will take some more pictures after work if i have some time, im replacing all of the rails except for the t/c bracket part (it was the only part that wasnt messed up) hopefully it will help. once you get it cut out its not hard. i know how you feel though. my site has some pictures but ive done a whole lot since these. ive redone some of the welds because one of them was bad and ive replaced a lot more stuff.

oh sorry, the bolts that attach the suspension to the frame rails.

definately break out the multimeter. you can put the neg on a ground, and test the voltage on each of the suspects, that way you can find shorts in your wires.

i think you can find out by looking at the wiring diagram in the stickies, im going to do this too pretty soon, i have my dash out. im replacing my harness though so i wont need to know.

Thanks for the info on that kit sparky. im gonna go with that too when i get the money. i hate old harnesses, they are ugly and heavy. ill tell you how mine goes as well.

Im redoing my entire front framerails and seem to have lost my bolts in the cleaning of the garage. can someone please help me out? what size are these bolts?

yes i have my dash out right now and would definately like to see how yours turns out. i have a cap on the original that i could use. i was also suprised by how heavy it was and was thinking about going with the pdk one but would really not like to spend the money. im going with after market gauges. autometer autolite. good luck with the project, we are eager to see how it turns out!

i believe these are some they sell at pep boys and autozone. that autometer you can get at autozone i beleive. that series was not liked by very many people. do a search on google for autometer autogauge reviews. people were saying they shorted out all the time and never really got accurate readings. id say just spend the money man. you can always find deals on ebay for quality stuff.

thanks for all you help and ideas guys, i will update my pictures soon because i have cut out where it attaches to the firewall and replaced all that stuff and a portion of the firewall with heavier stuff. i hope this gives encouragement to people to take care of their z's and never give up! because im doing all this and i have no experience!

im doing this same thing, i wish i knew about these rails before i started, ive had to spend a lot of time fabricating, its not hard, its just time consuming. i will take pictures and show you my custom suspension mount points and how the floors and frame rails are. on my web page the weld is bad on the frame rail so ive redone it since then and ive got a lot more done.

ya man, definately, thanks for your help