dj paul

i know what your talking about! good thing we could help you man. i know what thoughts and feelings were running through you when you found this mess. like i said before, just take these dude's advice on the door and dont worry about the dents. this isnt a structurally critical part of the car and the fender covers it so it doesnt even matter. while your there though, take a grinder with a wire wheel and get that sucker smooth. check out my pictures. someone once suggested a smurf whacked off all over the front of my car. lol. its just that i had this color paint lying around and it happened to be high in zinc content =)

anyone want to spare these rear arms for me? on one of mine the swaybar end link had ripped apart that welded washer. it looks like i could fix it easily. but considering im going to be around 450 rwhp eventually and spindle pins are PITA (as i did mine the other night, sounded easier than your guys experience tho, lol) that i might as well get some better ones. i do not have the money for the AZZcar or the MM ones. im going to college and i work at radioshack. cant quite drop 800 or more dollars right now. oh and jbc, could you show me these gussets? id rather spend no money and use my welding skill to pull me outta this mess. i can show you all pictures later. about the wheels going up forward, i was looking at the 240sx rear subframe and saw upper control arms and another bar up there. any way we could design this on our rear subframes without spending 1000+ on a 240sx rear. using monoballs and such with some bent tubing bolted in to a gusset extending off of the subframe?

actually this was the cleanest spot on my car! except a few where the tar had cracked. we remove it so some of us can put in lighter, better sound deadening/heat reflective material. personally im only going to put it on the firewall and in front of the transmission tunnel because rhino liner is going on the underside of my floors. you may be right, heat worked like crap on my car. it make it so much harder to remove from mine. i suggest trying the freezing first and if thats not working like i say it did, than use heat. the spots that i had tried heating up first were more of a pain to remove than the spots i didnt try heating up after it got cold outside. it seemed like it allowed them to bond better to the metal.

Hey guys, you all with your problems doing the PITA of removing the sound deadening material thats under the carpets look no further! I had the liberty of doing this while it was really cold so it worked really well. All you have to do is take a fire extinguisher with C02 (COLD!) and spray the hell outta the material. Then just beat the crap out of it with a hammer. It just flies off. I didnt even have to use the extinguisher because it was cold outside and it took me seriously 10 minutes to get everything off the tranny tunnel. (I already cut out the floors) If you were waiting to do this because you knew it was going to be crappy go ahead and get out there! this really works well. Now im just looking for the best way to remove undercoating. Ive read a few threads on it and oven cleaner works best (from what i hear) Mr. Muscle only. I wonder if my freezing approach can be taken here. I really doubt it,(but wouldnt it be cool?) Hope you all can use this info because i keep reading how people think its a PITA and its pretty easy with this approach. Thanks Paul

oh, that looks fine man. for some reason it looked way worse from those first pictures. you shouldnt even have to worry about those. the door is the culprit here, just get a new one, its hard to align something like that. i think dan has it right with the break in theory. its possible that the hinges are a little loose or something though. can the door move up or down at all? if so i think thats all you would have to do. but i doubt it.hope my rambling has helped you at all, sometimes i dont make much sense. lol

i dont think its any bid deal. the front upper rail (where the vents get air into the cabin) looks messed up bad but its kind of hard to tell post a pic looking directly facing it. not the back towards the door but up front above the wheel. if its is bad as i thinkid prob just cut that side off and weld on a new one. or tube frame the front. i would at least just cut that part out and weld some new metal there. thats prob a better solution than doing the whole side. i know it sounds like alot, but this is my first car project and i basically had to do the same thing. and from the looks of it your starting to get some frame rail rot but i cant really see that either. i could be wrong on this, just put some more pics up and i should be able to tell ya paul

check the usual rust spots, floors, front frame rails. even if it had rust on em id still pick it up. im just that crazy. but yes, those parts are well worth it if its not too high. and you get to save a car to boot!

my local Zclub sent me this. hopefully you all can get something out of it. Feel free to pass this along to your other car club members if you think they would have interest or paste it on a car club web site or add it to your club event calender. Check out the inclosed PDF on the poster for the 06 Mitty. This is the biggest vintage racing event in the United States. MARK YOUR CALENDAR. All car clubs welcome, this goes on for three days with a huge infield auto festival at ROAD ATLANTA. Look at the great HSR web site: http://www.hsrrace.com/ For some vintage race cars for sale click here, http://www.hsrrace.com/HSR/HSRHome.nsf/weblinks/EJEN-5ZUTKT?OpenDocument Should you have interest in being a vendor at the infield auto festival that goes on during the races please contact Joe Gearin at grmjoeg@aol.com Spaces fill quickly so make a reservation. Last year was a tribute to Triumph and MG and we had 450 race cars plus about 400 to 700 cars participating with their various clubs. 06 will see the super fast Nissan and Mazda and Toyota GTP and GTP light cars plus many racers from the 50s and 60s and up. The 2006 Classic Motorsports Mitty is just around the corner and now is the time to make plans clear the schedule, arrange hotels and organize a travel party for the April 28-30 Road Atlanta event. The Mitty is designed to entertain both the racer and the spectator, as action will take place both on and around Road Atlanta’s 2.54-mile track. While the HSR historic racers will circle the track throughout the weekend, the main competition event will be The Sports Cars of Japan feature races. More than 400 historic racecars of all nationalities will be on display and racing throughout the weekend. But the racers aren’t the only ones getting special treatment during The Mitty. The infield of Road Atlanta will be transformed into The World of Sports Cars, featuring The Sports Cars of Japan with areas representing America, Britain, France, Germany, Japan, Italy and Sweden. Contact us today to reserve a spot for you. In addition to the race and club fun, Classic Motorsports magazine has several other activities scheduled for The Mitty, including a vendor row, Saturday night party, silent auction and magazine project car display. If you get the hankering to get on track, parade laps and hot laps can be purchased in advance or the day of the event. And as always, FREE Ride and Drive autocross opportunities will be available throughout the weekend. Visit www.ClassicMotorsports.net for up-to-the minute event information, spectator ticket sales forms and vendor registration forms. Classic Motorsports magazine is the perfect source to help you while you spend some time on the car, making sure it’s up for the journey. Written by and for true classic sports car enthusiasts, upcoming issues will cover popular as well as unknown classics, along with useful technical articles, comparison tests, buying guides, auction reports, and personality pieces. Classic Motorsports magazine also has up-to-date race coverage on the fastest growing form of auto racing in the country – historic sports car racing. Go to www.ClassicMotorsports.net or call 800-520-8292 to subscribe. If you are a current subscriber, be sure to visit www.ClassicMotorsports.net and join our Classic Motorsports forum for all the latest project car and event news. Paul Chichester Director Of Special Events Historic Sportscar Racing

if you have the money, definately go for the kit. otherwise i would think you would be ok with a new timing set. but just make sure clearances are ok and oil passages are ok and everything, since you had some goofy stuff floating around. that is a really good price for that kit.

tell us whats wrong with your motor. do you know the extent of the damage? i would get everything out and label it and inspect it. unless this is your daily driver you could get it done way cheaper that way. dont get me wrong, thats a great price for all that. but more likely then not all you will need are the gasket set out of those. L series heads are what go bad. the bottem ends are crazy strong. not many people here even fool with them unless going for serious power or there was neglect on the motor and they seized it or spun a bearing. even then ive only heard of one doing it. but i guess like i said just let us know what is happening and what your plans for the car are. because of course, a crazy boost, high hp, fun machine would benefit from that kit.

zeddfindings is your friend for the floors, and baddog parts is your friend for the floor rails. i used the stock rails i got from zeddfindings and put the bad dog ones over them to tie them in better to the front.have you seen the rails in the engine bay? are they ok? if they arent thats cool its not that hard to replace. check out my site if you want to see the stuff replaced.

the rules state that there must be a protective barrier from fire/ etc so i believe if we found a class that allows are motors with our mods we should be fine. the main thing in their concern is safety. for the cages i just did a google search http://www.advancedautosport.com/cages.htm pdk also specializes in it http://www.pdkfabrication.bravepages.com/ there were a few more that ive found before. it was a major one like jegs or something.

better question. should i use to replace the suspension bolts, im trying to replace these bolts and am swamped with info on ss and grades and thread sizing and all this stuff. this is an important part of the car so im wanting to make sure. i did not see a m12 size in ARP's catalog (14mm i think) so please just someone help me out. thanks in advance! paul

oh ok. but besides that would that be a good idea? im going to look at scca rules for the class i would most likely be in. and see what the limits are. im not sure what a twin turbo 240 with a 280zx motor would be in. would that put me in a class that i would be the lowest in?

you could get one that bolts in and then weld 2 bars to the strut towers in a triangular fashion from the center bar of the roll bar and then get a bolt on rear tower brace to make it fully triangulated. that would prob be easiest. let me know if this is a good/bad idea because im going to do it soon. lol.

great job on that man. it looks like a bomb exploded in your engine bay. how the hell do you know whats going on? lol. and thats a radioshack switch isnt it! (i work at radioshack) nice job on that, thats a pretty good idea.

well you know what i mean, pick em up off of a stock car. im kind of on a budget, but the turbos will be the most expensive for me because i do all the other stuff myself. what do you think about the t25s i mentioned. possibly the t25/t28 hybrid?

im thinking t25 turbos off an sr20det. looks like you can get these all day for cheap. what about a t25/t28 hybrid. suppossedly t25s are a bit small, so would a hybrid be better giving a higher boost potential with the quick spool up of a t25? im decent at reading compressor maps but have no clue as to how to figure twin setups. do you just cut your airflow in half or something?

sounds good man, ill have to look for those. any more suggestions? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mitsubishi-3000GT-VR4-STEALTH-twin-turbo-turbos-NR-TD04_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ8029206360QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW possibly these? im going to try and find some more info on these.

hahaha not sound effects out loud but in my head. the tranny is still in it suspended by bunjies so i was pretending to shift. lol. its just that the car has been down for months. do you all think my work is looking ok? some of it i still have to clean up and do some finishing touches but for the most part?

well im just trying to find some that i maybe could pick up out of a junkyard car or someone upgrading. how much would a TT setup cost with new garretts sized to hit boost in a range that would be good for AutoX. im not exactly sure.

I got the seat brackets in and fully finished the right side frame rail (still some stuff here and there) and drilled the suspension mounting points. im actually getting happy! i can sit in my car now when i put the seat in. i almost pretended i was driving it last night. lol. check out my site. as ive said before, i hope this work encourages other people to get down there and if something is "iffy" just cut it out and weld a new one in. it might not be the prettiest. just make sure its good and strong. http://photobucket.com/albums/a172/djpaul8/

after seeing what you guys are talking about. id rather go two small turbos. this makes most sense to me after seeing actual results, and the some info behind it. ive had a little more time to think and read and im going this route. now to the turbo sizing. im not going to need one for a little bit (as you can see from my web page) but you think 2 mitsu turbos would be best suited? im trying to stay under 300 for each turbo. Oh and you all will be happy to know that the front right frame rail is completely done right now, suspension mounts and all. I will update pictures on my site tonight or tomorrow. i actually put my drivers seat brackets in last night and got to sit in the car! i was so excited. the rail isnt that pretty yet but its 100 times stronger than stock. but to stay on topic (lol) what size turbos? thanks paul

lol i know man, im just wondering about ideas and some more pictures of your setup if possible. im pretty good at fabbin up stuff. ive basically built my car from the ground up. ive had to make new frame rails floor rails and floors. and its completely gutted right now. you dont happen to sell custom intakes do you? ive found one like yours but i might not be able to buy it yet (buyin fiberglass rear quarters). and Q45man they arent linear? i thought the small one would help spool up the larger one. ive read numerous places that they would be great for autox but you know how the internet is. do you all think a TT setup like 240turbos would be better for AutoX or a sequential turbo setup? (sized correctly of course)

thanks man that looks great. i see he is running 2 mitsu turbos. hmmm... i wonder if he can help me out with my sequential turbo idea.