dj paul

ya sorry man i was kind of in a hurry, i didnt show the angles correctly. with your cage, keep in mind the best thing you can do is tie the entire car together in as many ways as possible. im pretty tired right now but if you want i can spend some more time on a drawing to show you the correct way tomorrow. im also glad to know i could help with the pdk fabrication bars. it is pretty crazy

the mustang II was one of the worst cars ever made. Your on the right track though. i wonder who would even spend a grand on the entire car?

great info, put this in stickies so new kids that dont know the search function see this.

i dont think this angle should make much of a difference either IMO. you will be adding caster more than likely. the only thing you would have to think about is if its an actually cheesy rubber bushing and you add this caster when the spacer bushing is leaning towards camber, then the bushing will wear out sooner. thats the only problem i could see.

thanks man, its not HICAS. i did get recommended the solid mounts for the suspension. people say its a huge difference. you seem to know somewhat about the setup, do you have any pictures/info on mounting and suggestions on the coilover rates/sizes etc.? thanks paul

the triangulated strut tower bracing from pdkfabrication is what im going with. im going to weld a plate on the firewall to strengthen its mounting point and for the bolt that goes through the frame im going to go all the way through and have a sleeve around the bolt so it doesnt crush the frame over time. the crossmember kbracing seems to me like it wouldnt really help that much. the area that its in isnt in the torque twising part of the frame and i think its design is sufficient. but then again triangulation always helps. the subframe connectors that go from strut tower to strut tower like some ive seen is added weight IMO. The ones that extend the floor rail to the rear subframe can't hurt (then again IMO) this is an area that sees torque loads and applying power through turns i believe would cause this area to flex. I believe this area is strong enough but i also believe that over time this flexing can put the frame out of whack, and stiffening it will help your car handle like it should. rocker tips would not do much unless you have a cage. stiffening the frame severely in one area (such as a cage) and not paying attention to where it mounts to can cause some other problems. you would not need those on a car witought a full cage. also on the sway bar reinforcement, get some brackets from baddog parts and then thread your bolts all the way through to the top and have a sleeve so the rail doesnt crush over time.

since ive replaced my front rails, floor rails, and put bad dog rails over the floor rails i replaced, my car will not settle on jack stands either. i can jack it up from the middle and the whole side comes up evenly. i dont even have subframe connectors yet. the only stock rails on my car are where the tc rod bracket goes under on the pass side and from the firewall to in front of the tc rod bracket on the drivers side. the rest was so rusted out that there was nothing left. just check out my site!

ya we have that book and a few other ones. ill let you all know if i go thru with it. i have access to our CNC machine and an industrial tig and pipe benders and such.

Hey, i know Maichor did this swap a little while back. Im fully confident that i can do it. im just wondering if anyone has the pictures saved or any more pictures of what his setup looks like and/or the measurements he used. so i dont have to re-invent the wheel persay. sorry i didnt just bump the thread earlier but know one asnwered to it.

its possible that soon i could have it as part of my studies. im in an automotive club at school and we design suspensions for the dune buggies from the ground up. i might be able to do this next semester because im just taking normal classes right now. if not i could just give some of the guys some dimensions and see what they come up with. thanks paul

sounds good man, thats what i was leaning more towards.

if anyone was really interested i am about an hour and a half away and could get it for you. for a small fee =). i def would not trust 0 feedback seller with that much specially name is 1fastmofo or something to that effect. lol

Hey guys, im in the repair/design stages of my z and ive been reading that the front suspension is the weakest link. i was thinking about designing some front double a arms. ive seen them done by auxillary i think or at least he had a link to some on a z. these posts were a while back so i was just wondering if anyone has either: come up with a new design, has some they could sell me, or knows of a cars setup that you could adapt to our car. more than likely im not going to be doing this unless i can generate a lot of interest because i really dont have the time or the money to put a lot of stuff together right now. (working fulltime, fulltime engineering student, and restoring this car!) so basically 3 full time jobs, lol. what i do have though, is a good friend thats awesome at fabricating almost anything, cad based programs for stress analysis, and the will to help others out if i get this done.

you dont really need rear suspension modifications for a z to handle the power. the only real thing you would want are the subframe connectors everyone is talking about. since you are putting a v8 in the car i would definately put these in. theres a difference between a 500 hp v8 and a 500 hp straight 6 in terms of torque output and structural twisting. i suggest if you dont want to do too much work, go to [LINK]www.baddogparts.com[/LINK] and check out his rails that go over your existing ones and help tie in the front, even though i replaced my rails with thicker gauge alltogether, i put these on my car to help tie everthing together and to spread out the stresses. check out my website and keep in mind this is my first time doing all this work so you definately can do it yourself. i might in the near future design some bolt in subframe connectors for people who dont want to weld. bolt in would not do as much as weld on but it would still help. ill let everyone know if i do because im about to get to that design part on my car.

oh by the way, what would my r200 long nose viscous go for?

yes there were/ maybe still are, kits for this. look through the photo albums in hybridz cars. you can find some pictures of them. im not exactly sure where to get them still i would find the picture of the guy who has one and then ask him about it.

at top end performance they had a bar that looked exactly like that for the Z check it out.

there was a thread about this in the past, supposedly its a pretty nice piece but supposedly doesnt do much performancewise. just do a search about it i cant remember exactly wat was said.

mine is from japan. ya all the lsd units in stock form over here were viscous. sounds good man. thanks.

what you want for it?

Hey guys, i just picked up a S13 rear subframe 1.5 clutch type short nose r200 with all the cables, brakes, calipers etc. My stock lower CA's are almost shot, i could fix them with some welding, and my brake drums would need turning, but i would want discs because of the way i drive i dont want to have to bleed brakes after every weekend run. I feel im fully capable of making this IRS work on my car and i know its been done before. Ive just been reading up on it, and some peoples opinions are almost biased towards keeping the original suspension for performance. Basically, i picked this subframe with the clutch differential for 450 shipped. I kind of figured, that if i was going to spend the money to get old technology up to snuff, it was going to be as much as this, and i could sell my r200 viscous long nose and make some of the money back. I know it probobly is but i just want some re-assurance after reading some people's knowledge/opinions especially some of the people that seemed to have a lot of experience. Im going to replace this entire IRS's bushings with poly ones and probobly make some brace bars similar to the ones found on the S14 and the R33. Basically i would like to start ANOTHER (lol) thread on this discussion to pertain to people in my position, meaning other people with the necessity to spend money to get their stock rear assemblies back to normal. In turn helping them by reading this to decide whether to spend money on what they have, or spend a little more and get a lot more, but with more to think about and more planning. Oh, and this is going to be mainly a street car, but occasionaly a track car. And i like to push my cars to their limit, aka flying off the road if any adjustments on a turn were to be made while turning.

oh ok. would the blower motor itself defog the interior? and it wouldnt let me see the whole picture

dude, i bought a car that was in way worse condition than this. i had no prior experience just a willingness to learn and a desire to drive a zcar! lol. seriously though i almost have all the parts to make my car complete and ive only spent 4grand including car. but ive done all the work myself. that includes rebuilt cylinder head 280zx motor low miles body panels megasquirt fabbed up twin turbo manifold (no turbos yet) floors and rails. id definately say go for it! look at my site and see what mine was like when i started out.