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zgeezer last won the day on January 30 2014

zgeezer had the most liked content!

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About zgeezer

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 01/31/1911

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  • Location
    Indio-Southern California
  • Interests
    Photography, cars....any/all vehicles, firearms, creating loud sounds using unstable compounds, conversation, spittin', kickin' tires, and swapping lies.

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  1. What are you actually looking for: the entire shift mechanism or only the chrome plated arm that is attached to the transmission actuating lever?
  2. If you are using JTR's radiator and mounting, a Lincoln Mark VIII two speed fan with shroud is a perfect fit. Need only cut out a portion of the shroud to give more room to remove the radiator hoses. Two "L" shaped brackets for the bottom , 4 pop rivets to secure the brackets to the bottom of the JTR bottom mounting bracket and you are ready to go. Flashes 50 amps on startup..Big fuse and relays recommended. Some Thunderbirds may also work. This is not the smaller Taurus fan. JTR's first 240z/csb engline swap manual used a top radiator mount from a 71 or so Nova with v/8. If you are using this piece to mount your chevrolet radiator, the Lincoln shroud mounts as if stock with three sell tapping screws. If you have the JTR manual,look at page 12-2. zgeezer
  3. This is the relay on early 240z with Automatic Transmission that is mounted on the firewall near the battery. It works with the inhibitor switch that is mounted on the passenger side of automatic transmissions. It prevents ("inhibits") startup in any gear other than park and neutral. These are no longer available from Nissan. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the interior of this relay. Something that one might be able to use to construct a functional equivalent using modern relays? Or, in the alternative, does anyone have one for sale or trade. z
  4. Sorry, it appears they were sold.


    What I do have is one set of 4 stud 300zt hubs w/o bearings, spacers and Toyota ventilated front disks. Along with a set of unused Brembo 5 lug 300zx rear discs... part of a rear disc  brake conversion.




  5. I've embarked on the installation of a Vintage Air evaporator, using John's Cars compressor and mounting, and a stock copper condenser out of a 280Z. I like the condenser because it is a perfect fit.. bolts in with existing bolt holes and the high and low pressure line align with the radiator mount. This unit has been stored for a number of years with duct tape covering the orifices of both lines. The lines appear to be 37 degree cone and very similar to either jic or an fittings. Does any know what standard fitting was used on 280z condensers? I need to match my condenser (37 degree or so cone) to the"O" ring fittings of the compressor and evaporator unit. Does anyone know of any adapter that might make the transference. Finally, local a/c guys advise me to ditch the 280Z condenser in favor of a newer after market AL unit with "O" ringed fittings. The reasons they give are: 1. the high and low pressure fitting, being a flare of some degree, are inadequate and will leak refrigerant; that the copper construction does not transfer heat as well as AL, and that my 280Z condenser is contaminated by the oil that was used in the '70s and can not be adequately cleaned or used with the current refrigerants. So can anyone tell me: 1. What standard are my condenser's fittings? Are they JIC? 2. Are the newer refrigerants (134a ?) incompatible with flare fittings? 3. Is oil contamination a real problem or is it something that can be cleaned up by any radiator shop? I've read Tony's discussion of CU versus AL and condenser sizing, so I don't see the construction or size to be a problem. thanks,
  6. Thanks everyone. I found a trading partner. z
  7. Thanks for the response. I ordered the mounts off the JTR website and one week later PayPal refunded the money. Thanks for the offer; but, I'm not much of a fabricator. z
  8. JTR used to carry an elegant radiator mount for installing a Chevrolet radiator in a 240Z. I need the kit or just the top bracket. If you have one send me a pm with your price. g
  9. I think I have a set....somewhere. I'll look Monday. Do you have a 280Z OEM radiator overflow bottle and cap? z
  10. I really "need" an OEM 280Z radiator overflow bottle. No interest in aftermarket or "it'll fit" swaps from other cars. I have two early "D" hubcaps [series I-- '70/'71] that are in reasonable shape, plastic "D" slightly faded, but pins are good and the chrome is good to about 3 feet. These hubcaps are NOT painted, are either chrome or stainless, and are not bent up. Straight across trade. You send me a usable bottle with cap (I don't need the mount) and pay for shipping. I'll pack these in two pizza boxes and send them to you. Photos available if you have the bottle. z
  11. Ok, I wish to replace the fusible link from the passenger side rail to the starter in an early 240z. I have the harness side intact. I do not have the link. The quick disconnect is a latchable plastic holder with one male blade on the body side and a matching female on the link to the starter. That blade is an unusual size. I believe it is something in the order of 10 or 10.mm. Does anyone know where I might find these connectors and latch "box"? I am not interested in purchasing a complete fusible link: only male/female/and plastic connector. With these connectors, I expect to wire a relay/breaker/fuse box without sacrificing the body loom. g G
  12. I had noticed that later 280z's have an oil pressure with two male blades configured in a T. Does anyone have drawing of the internals? If it is a simple ground contact, then that may be as simple as wiring the ground side of a relay directly into one of those terminals. It can't be that simple. I need something to kill the electric pump in event of an accident. G
  13. I've wired my 70z with an in-tank FI pump. I'm using the fuel pump wires Datsun built into the body harness. I'm looking for an easily mounted inertia safety switch. Ideally something small enough to be mounted on a front "frame" rail. Any recommendations or pictures of installations. g
  14. What year? '74's are quite different.
  15. I had a similar issue on my '70. Bare shell, missing engine compartment wiring, hacked body harness, and a "clean" instrument harness with plastic terminals that turned to powder at a touch. My combination switch and the spare were badly corroded from water intrusion into the heavy duty black plastic tote that I used for storage. [summer heat and water in a semi sealed container destroyed all white plastic terminal ends and corroded the aluminum]. I purchased a complete 24 or 28 circuit wiring package from Ron Francis wires.. I decided not to do a complete custom re-wire; instead, I purchased a '72 engine harness and stuffed it and the other two harnesses into a box and shipped them all to Dave Irwin in Washington state. What I received back was a completely refurbished harness that could be installed in a day. The expense was less than I paid for the Ron Francis wires. Here are the pros and cons as I saw them. 1. How many circuits did I need. As this would not be daily driver, not a race car, I needed more than a few circuits. As this Z would not be equipped with aftermarket hydraulics, heavy sound, power mirrors, GPS, flashing wheel well lights, 120 watt light bars or any of a host of other aftermarket power drain, I could do quite well with the 10 or so circuits of the stock Z. 2. Reliability I know there are Z owners here that consider the Z wiring scheme to be something designed by LUCAS or that the phrase "reliable Datsun Z wiring" to be an oxymoron. The weaknesses and idiosyncrasies of the Z wiring scheme are well known and largely curable, most by simple plug and play harnesses. I did not trust my wiring skill set to be adequate to guarantee my wife that we wouldn't lose lights some night somewhere between Caliente and Ely, Nevada. Remember, my use is as a driver that will see [i hope] a lot of highway miles. 3. Stock Interior I did not wish to alter the interior from stock. My desire to keep a stock appearance dictated that I would live with the Datsun combination switch. Mr. Irwin was able to add a plug and play sub-harness that incorporated a relay for the head lights. A major design defect of the Datsun wiring solved. I chose to retain the Ammeter. Perhaps not a wise decision, as Mr. Irwin could have easily modified the instrument panel harness to use a 280 voltmeter. But, again, I wanted a stock interior 4. Personal Growth I did not factor into my decision any element of acquiring new skills or taking on a new challenge. To be honest, if I were retired or 20 years younger, I would have gathered my friends, a few cases of beer, 20 pounds of carne asada and wired it like a Chevy over a weekend. Yeah, that combination switch would be dumped in favor of something from Flaming River or GM.
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