zgeezer

How do I wire my Ls1 engine harness that is wired to allow the engine control module to control two radiator fans. My aftermarket loom is terminated with two relays: one for the low speed fan and the other for the high speed fan. My fan is a two speed ford Lincoln unit. I would like to wire it so as to be controlled by the GM computer. Does anyone have any schematics or photos of the Ford fan being controlled by the GM computer?

I agree. They are a close match for the last remaining Fittipaldi I have. Three were stolen a few years ago. Zgeezer

I used the a/t shifter out of my 240Z. Pulled it out, removed the transmission actuating arm and swapped it over from the passenger side to the driver's side. Mechanical connection with a rod threaded to fit the shifter arm and the aftermarket adjustable arm on the transmission. Perfect fit to the transmission tunnel. Neutral lockout will be wired (I hope) through GM's plastic lockout switch on the driver's side of the transmission. Sorry about the general language; but if you can get your hands on a 240/260Z or early Maxima, automatic shifter all will become clear. I did this because I wanted to preserve some semblance of a stock Z interior. zgeezer

The spacing between the supports is the same for all three LS, because that spacing is determined by John's a/c compressor. That being said, I've installed Johns a/c kit on my truck engine. I cut a .75 spacer out of AL and used it to space the entire assembly forward to match my truck alternator and crank pulley. Looks good. zgeezer

What are you actually looking for: the entire shift mechanism or only the chrome plated arm that is attached to the transmission actuating lever?

If you are using JTR's radiator and mounting, a Lincoln Mark VIII two speed fan with shroud is a perfect fit. Need only cut out a portion of the shroud to give more room to remove the radiator hoses. Two "L" shaped brackets for the bottom , 4 pop rivets to secure the brackets to the bottom of the JTR bottom mounting bracket and you are ready to go. Flashes 50 amps on startup..Big fuse and relays recommended. Some Thunderbirds may also work. This is not the smaller Taurus fan. JTR's first 240z/csb engline swap manual used a top radiator mount from a 71 or so Nova with v/8. If you are using this piece to mount your chevrolet radiator, the Lincoln shroud mounts as if stock with three sell tapping screws. If you have the JTR manual,look at page 12-2. zgeezer

This is the relay on early 240z with Automatic Transmission that is mounted on the firewall near the battery. It works with the inhibitor switch that is mounted on the passenger side of automatic transmissions. It prevents ("inhibits") startup in any gear other than park and neutral. These are no longer available from Nissan. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the interior of this relay. Something that one might be able to use to construct a functional equivalent using modern relays? Or, in the alternative, does anyone have one for sale or trade. z

I've embarked on the installation of a Vintage Air evaporator, using John's Cars compressor and mounting, and a stock copper condenser out of a 280Z. I like the condenser because it is a perfect fit.. bolts in with existing bolt holes and the high and low pressure line align with the radiator mount. This unit has been stored for a number of years with duct tape covering the orifices of both lines. The lines appear to be 37 degree cone and very similar to either jic or an fittings. Does any know what standard fitting was used on 280z condensers? I need to match my condenser (37 degree or so cone) to the"O" ring fittings of the compressor and evaporator unit. Does anyone know of any adapter that might make the transference. Finally, local a/c guys advise me to ditch the 280Z condenser in favor of a newer after market AL unit with "O" ringed fittings. The reasons they give are: 1. the high and low pressure fitting, being a flare of some degree, are inadequate and will leak refrigerant; that the copper construction does not transfer heat as well as AL, and that my 280Z condenser is contaminated by the oil that was used in the '70s and can not be adequately cleaned or used with the current refrigerants. So can anyone tell me: 1. What standard are my condenser's fittings? Are they JIC? 2. Are the newer refrigerants (134a ?) incompatible with flare fittings? 3. Is oil contamination a real problem or is it something that can be cleaned up by any radiator shop? I've read Tony's discussion of CU versus AL and condenser sizing, so I don't see the construction or size to be a problem. thanks,

Thanks everyone. I found a trading partner. z

Thanks for the response. I ordered the mounts off the JTR website and one week later PayPal refunded the money. Thanks for the offer; but, I'm not much of a fabricator. z

JTR used to carry an elegant radiator mount for installing a Chevrolet radiator in a 240Z. I need the kit or just the top bracket. If you have one send me a pm with your price. g

I think I have a set....somewhere. I'll look Monday. Do you have a 280Z OEM radiator overflow bottle and cap? z

I really "need" an OEM 280Z radiator overflow bottle. No interest in aftermarket or "it'll fit" swaps from other cars. I have two early "D" hubcaps [series I-- '70/'71] that are in reasonable shape, plastic "D" slightly faded, but pins are good and the chrome is good to about 3 feet. These hubcaps are NOT painted, are either chrome or stainless, and are not bent up. Straight across trade. You send me a usable bottle with cap (I don't need the mount) and pay for shipping. I'll pack these in two pizza boxes and send them to you. Photos available if you have the bottle. z

Ok, I wish to replace the fusible link from the passenger side rail to the starter in an early 240z. I have the harness side intact. I do not have the link. The quick disconnect is a latchable plastic holder with one male blade on the body side and a matching female on the link to the starter. That blade is an unusual size. I believe it is something in the order of 10 or 10.mm. Does anyone know where I might find these connectors and latch "box"? I am not interested in purchasing a complete fusible link: only male/female/and plastic connector. With these connectors, I expect to wire a relay/breaker/fuse box without sacrificing the body loom. g G