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zgeezer

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Everything posted by zgeezer

  1. Really appreciate the comments. The flat top LS2 pistons and rods will stay in their boxes for the time being. The Lq4 will receive a 2004 LS6 (405 hp) cam with the GTO lifters, 7.425 pushrods, Ls2 springs (yellow..beehive equivalent to the z06 springs) and stock 317 heads. Oil pan from 2006 Ls2 Corvette... looks like it will fit, if not; the price was right. Stock 4l60E automatic transmission. Recovered an oil cooler from a third GEN Rx7 that is a perfect fit between the Z's front "frame"horns. Has a built in thermostat. Once this is back in and tuned, I'll start shopping for a set of heads. Either stock 799s that I can pass off as genuine truck castings or the other casting often found on LS2. I calculate that the GTO stock LS2 heads will net about 10.4 CR. Since I have a year to work on this charade, I should be able to sort it all out in time for a 500 mile trip from the low California desert up to Reno. Thanks G
  2. Lq4 is fairly common; but the lq9's sell for a substantial premium down here. I understand that the Lq9 crank is balanced for the flat top piston and heavier bushed connecting rods. If I could find a good lq9 crank; maybe I could use the ls2 pistons and rods I have.
  3. Or the ls3 rectangular port heads, matching intake, small cam, and good long tubes is reputed to do the job also. A common recommendation are stage 2.5 TEA modified 5.3 heads also. G
  4. 1970 240Z, lightest of the light, with additional weight from R200 and associated improvements. Current LM7 in chassis courtesy of JCI in Texas. I'm guessing around 25-2600 without stripping anything other than the spare tire and jack.
  5. Well, can you imagine that, he lied to me about the weight. It also means that his 426 stroker wasn't as strong as I thought. Hey, I just might carry this off. g
  6. He never had eye opening 60' times. But, his solution to traction worked. Early Falcons. The original dorkmobile was a '62 Futura, his latest a '61 sedan. Nine inch with 3:00 screw, his version of the old traction master link to control wheel hop. Actually a "slapper bar", but it didn't look like one and was tucked up nice and neat. The wheels were steel 14 inch, but wide Chrysler product. His LSD made clicking noises whenever he turned: a detroit locker I think. Finally, he always finished strong.
  7. Ls1tech has a universal agreement that the LS6 cam is too puny and good only as a support for Budweiser Beer lamp shades. Even free, they don't like them...sort of "why bother". But to support the story line, I have to have a smooth 500 rpm idle and run the truck intake.
  8. Oh, I like the idea and it did occur to me. However, The Code of The West prevails here: we can lie, cheat, bad-mouth, misrepresent, gamble, fight, drink and hit up on your wife or sister, BUT real men build real motors. Spraying is, how can I say this,..... simply not Manly, lower even than bolting on a hair dryer. Besides, I can't risk getting caught, even my sister wouldn't talk to me. g
  9. THE SET UP Think major sibling rivalry here: my brother is Ford blue and good at it. Builds only early Falcons with a preference for 4 doors. He builds only 351C or Windsor small blocks. He builds very strong engines, well thought out parts [He's an engineer and long ago figured out that the parts have to work together] and stuffs them into straight stock bodied Falcons. He calls his vehicles "Dorkmobiles" and he has been a very effective predator of everything Chevrolet on grudge nights. The dorkmobiles all run 14inch tires...radials, but not drag radials on a 3:00 9inch Ford rear end with a real locker center, think off road locker. The 3.00 R&P is there "To kill that massive torque Ford engines are good for". He builds Q-ships. The last one ran two back to back runs at Sacramento of 10:8x and 128+ mph trap time. That dorkmobile was a 426 stroker (351W block) with C6 dressed out as a 289 HiPo. He's really good with decals, paint, and BS. This one was also driveable with a very slight chop. THE HORSEPOWER Every horsepower/et./trap speed calculator I've run, using 3100# as the Falcon/driver weight, spits out something in the order of 500hp to do that deed in a Falcon. THE CHALLENGE or MY SHORT BUCKET LIST What GEN III combination in my Series I 240Z would it take to turn the 1/4 quicker and faster than a dorkmobile? I think my Z with GEN III, me, and a 4L60E will weigh in the 2800#...maybe less range. At 2800# computer calculators indicate I'll need 446 real horsepower. So, 450 hp will be my design parameters...that and to be driveable at the same time. HERE ARE MY PARTS The Z is set up with a strong rear drive: 3:36 R200, additional clutches in the 300ZXT LSD, Racing Flag stub axles, and 300ZXT CV axles [well, one anyway, the other is a pathfinder]. One running 2001 LQ4 with 65000 miles and 317 heads. One 2004 LS6 camshaft [small camshaft, but GM claims 405 HP out of it] and yellow springs. Eight flat top 4 inch pistons and floated rods out of a 2005 low mileage GTO. Two sets of 5.3 truck heads, casting #706 with the small intake valve and 61.15 cc combustion chamber. WHAT I DON'T HAVE I don't have a truck load of money, but I do have access to a machine shop and to a large wrecking lot. Some gurus have told me to pull the LQ4 crank, hang the GTO pistons and rods on to it and balance the assembly. This is said to push the CR to about 10.9:1 Then, buy a "real cam" and with a good tune and long tube headers, I'd put down over 500HP, easy. I'm not too sure about that. GTO's with LS2 are rated at 400HP and I think I'm close to creating a bastardized clone of the LS2. WHAT I AM INCLINED TO DO I don't like breaking the crank and pistons out of the block. I would prefer to gain compression by reducing the size of the combustion chamber. I don't have the cash to buy aftermarket.....and, if I can actually take on a Dorkmobile, I'd prefer to do it with all GM parts. So here are the options I think I have. I can keep the 317 heads and mill them for compression. But, I'm strongly advised not to cut them more than .030 because there's not that much meat there and I would most likely incur P/V interference and misalignment issues with the intake manifold. I'm told that milling them .030 would gain only slightly more than 10:1 CR. The benefit to the 317 over a standard LS1 casting or the 706 5.3 truck engine is a 2.00 valve and a larger port volume. I'm told that 317 casting is the same as the LS6 head, but with a larger combustion chamber. They are reputed to flow better than any of the other stock cathedral port castings. The other choice is to take a pair of 706 heads down to the machine shop and install a larger intake valve... opinions vary as to a simple replacement of 2.0" intake valve or something marginally larger. I understand that the 706 castings have the same intake/exhaust port volume as LS1 heads and flow the same once the intake valve is replaced. I have no doubt that the 706 heads will give me a higher CR. This might be my best choice. It would also maintain the facade of running a 4.8. SEX, VIDEOTAPE, AND LIES I have spent the last two years...maybe more in setting my brother up to expect a Z with a 4.8L engine. A sad tale of paying good money for an insurance 5.3 to find flat pistons and a 4.8 in my garage. He has been quite helpful and generous with his time: he recommended the 1998 LS1 cam over the LS6 camshaft as being more responsive for the smaller engine. We will meet next year in Reno for Hot August Nights: he will be present with another Dorkmobile [This one with a late Ford V6] and my brother-in-law's '56 Austin Healey with a dorkmobile 347 and a/t. We will all go to the drags outside Reno to see what both Dorkmobile II and the AH can do. I will be pushed to run my Z...... I would expect some bets of some sort will be made.... all in good nature... of course! I want to walk away with his money, if not outright bragging rights. WHAT I NEED FROM HYBRIDZ I need solid advice as to how best use the parts I have and if 475HP is unlikely with the Z06 camshaft.... then give me some choices. Thanks for reading this long tale. g
  10. Getting the inner CV off; this can be accomplish in a few manors. Using a pipe, and placing the axle in the pipe, and slamming the CV assembly down into the pipe OR using a dead blow hammer. Using the dead blow hammer, took 4-8 hits to get the inner snap right to give. Mind you I am 145 lbs, so with me holding shaft and hammering, I think this method works great. When taking off the inner CV, be sure to hit the inner portion. Otherwise, the outer cage will shift, and you will never get the snap ring to give. I beat up and destroyed a Pathfinder CV and axle using both of these methods. Sometimes the inner CV simply will not come off. Rebuilders use a special tool for this chore. It is a heavy punch that is angled away from the shaft and has a foot designed to fit around both the inner and out race. The design guarantees that the force of each hammer blow is delivered precisely to the inner race. They work well, store easily in the tool box, and are, relatively speaking, affordable, I purchased mine from Rockford Driveline in Rockford, Illinois for a little over $50.00 shipped to me. Here's their website: http://rockforddriveline.com This is called a cv inner race driver. They have a number of heavy duty components. Well worth looking at their catalogue. Obligatory disclamer: I have no relationship with this folks, other than dropping $ on them for their driver. G
  11. Any Fiat 500 with the Bose 6 speaker package has a unique bass speaker mounted under the passenger seat between the seat frame rails. It is a flat package bolted to the rails and well protected from "debris". The housing consists of two horns [folded ported bass ?] that sit flat, but are wound around the speaker chamber. The housing appears to be only 1 or 1.5 inches in depth; but, it may fit into a depression in the bottom. Worth looking at if you need more bass and are unwilling or unable to mount large speakers in your tire well. I can not tell from looking at the top side the depth or diameter of the speaker. It sounded great in the Fiat I rented over the weekend. G
  12. No, you are not crazy and the S130 is a great (and under-appreciated vehicle). Given that you have fabrication skills or access to them, I would start cruising wrecking lots with a tape measure and an open mind. If you live and drive in California, think about smog and think like a smog referee. Generally speaking, all swaps using a truck engine are illegal. Your iron block 5.3 may be running all Ls1 accessories, smog equipment, gas tank and passing a tail pipe test with colors, but, if that magnet sticks to the block you're probably out of luck and a lot of money. So here's my take, for what it is worth. Define your goals. Is gas mileage really on the top of your list or is a cheap swap more important? Here's my take. If smogability is not an issue, I'd hit the Sacramento/Carson City Nevada wrecking lots for GENIII 4.8 Vortech and six speed manual. Easy swap, dirt cheap engine.... really dirt cheap, along with a set of 3:54 r&P Keep the truck cam. If one can believe the Corvette sites who claim 28mph @80 with an LS1, then your S130 should do at least that well. If you have wiring expertise, this is a swap that can be done for $2K or so [with an automatic]. If smogability is an issue, then shop for new 60 degree V6s, such as Ford's new 3.8 out of a Mustang with either AT or 6MT or V6 out of any of the rear wheel drive SUVs. Take a close look at the v6 out of mid 2005+ Hyundai or Kia sedans. These engines do not sell at a premium and there is usually one or two in any large lot. If you find a late donor you could also be tied into an 8 speed automatic. You would be in terra incognito as far as wiring these newer engine/transmission combination. Finally, if the early Mazda/Ranger V6-4cylinders are really sticking in your mind, you should contact some Ford crazies who run Rangers off road for a better idea of what breaks and what doesn't. g
  13. Very true, mine has a build date of 09/70 and I would have restored it "sort of" if it had had matching numbers, but the 5 speed with 280 block... in pieces didn't compute as an "investment". So, I spent the last 15 years playing with it, learning how to do body work and how not to do body work. It's been sort of like a very expensive long term love doll... always playing with the body. This year, it might actually run and be licensed. G
  14. There is, in fact, a tool designed to remove stubborn CV joints, look here. It looks like a chisel with a crescent shaped shoe, rather than a cutting edge, angled out to allow one a good clean strike. This weekend, I'll sacrifice my truck lug wrench. Cut the bell shaped end vertically to give me that "crescent" that should slip around the axle and grind the bottom of the bell to angle the shaft out and away... far enough to allow one with impaired eye/hand co-ordination to hit the tool and not bounce off the axle..... you did say "beer and friends", right. G
  15. The schematic from the link below shows only a circlip inside the CV joint and on the end of the axle. g
  16. I appreciate the link; but, it does not show how to remove the inner joint. It does state that the "joint at the wheel side can not be separated". The schematic shows a circlip holding the CV joint on the center bar. The re-installation of the splined CV joint is done by tapping the splined stub to drive the CV joint onto the center bar. If it is tapped on it would be logical that it would be tapped off. Tomorrow, a BMF dead hammer and a larger drift. I've beat up my concrete floor by slamming that 2' pipe down...with the axle and joint inside. The pipe makes a perfect fit over the center and does not impact the cage. We'll see.... . g
  17. Is there a tool for removing splined inner cv joints? Hitting it with a heavy brass hammer or using a 1.5 inch x 2 foot pipe, as suggested in several other posts, is simply not working for me. I'm practicing on a Pathfinder front axle with the expectation of using the short center bar with my z31 inner/outer cvs to "cure" the suspension drag/interference I have. G
  18. I'm at that stage where I'm replacing all my brake lines. I have the Modern Motorsport rear disc brake kit. I gutted the proportioning valve in the back [series 1 240z] and am about to replace the front brakes with the vented Toyota calipers. This vehicle will be a daily driver... no race days... . I understand that the front Toyota calipers simply "overpower" the rear discs and that using a proportioning valve on the back discs, simply does not balance front for back. Is this imbalance a real safety issue or more of a track issue? Does it make sense to use an adjustable proportioning valve on the front calipers? Something like this. Or am I better off just running the Front/Back circuits without any proportioning valve. G
  19. I understand that the 6sp manual transaxle is a joint venture with GM and Ford.
  20. That segment is highly competitive. Ford's done good things over the last few years, but the competition doesn't stand still. Our PT Cruiser HO turbo finally (183000 miles) gave up its transmission and we spent two weeks shopping hot hatchbacks. We do a lot of traveling up and over the Sierras to Sacramento, Reno, Tahoe and such so we were really looking for an all wheel drive. Came down to only Subarus... WRX or Forester XT. Took the Forester.
  21. If you can afford a newer engine and are committed to Ford Blue, then the newer v6 (Ecoboost) truck and Mustang engines are a good fit with great power. There must be a few thousands of newer base mustang engines (Rated around 305 hp) in the junk yards. They fit, they're light, and you don't see them in 3 out of 4 engine swaps at the local car show. g
  22. Looking for a cosmetically presentable and straight CA or AZ car w/o rust. Running, sorted out and clean. GEN III only. A/T or 6speed only. Stock suspension , R180 ok. Prefer a '70 or '71, but '72 or '73 acceptable if the car is solid. Car should have good paint and be reliable. Motor mounts and A/C by John's Cars would be a plus. This would be a replacement for my now departed MazdaSpeed Miata and my daily driver. I'm not looking for a project car (I have one already), but if you have an exceptional bargain that is complete, assembled, and ready to run, please talk to me. Although always looking for bargains I'm up to paying full market value for the right vehicle. What do you have? g
  23. If you are replacing all your hard brake lines, consider purchasing a 25' role of cunifer from Fedhill. Very easy to bend, polishes up to a nice copper sheen and has beend standard on Volvos and Mercedes for a number of years. Or, there are a number of ebay stores that offer a similar product: about 20 straight lines of various lengths with pre flared ends in SAE, but with brass sae to metric adapters. Price is about $45.00 shipped. Brand is EZ Bend, I think. If yoiu try this route, please post your results. G
  24. I bid on this, just to see if there is a response. So far NaaaaaaDA. g
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