zgeezer

Hey, Phantom, have you posted photos of your torque tube set up? Do I understand your post correctly, you have no rear transmission mount cross-member? How about posting a photo of your transmission/torque tube/ rear differential set up. Thanks, G

Not if you use the JCI installation kit. My calculations put the front part of the manifold about 2 inches higher than the hood. I think a standard Nissan competition hood scoop will cover the manifold. g:)

The Gen III truck engines 4.8 and 5.3L iron blocks are available and very cheap,. Although the stock intake manifold stands about 4 inches higher that the LS1 F body versions, they are quite good performers. Here are the dyno pulls performed in July and August of 2004 by CHP (Chevrolet High Performance) magazine on the various intake manifolds available at the time. Well worth the read: Big_Ugly g

Very subjective topic indeed,, but my MazdaSpeed MX5 (Miata for the rest of the world) 6sp is very smooth, light, and precise. The '90 Mustang 5 speed I drive now and then is not as light to move, the throws are longer, and the "gate" is wider. Some of this may be the weight of the gears you are moving and the length of your shifter. If "silky" and "smooth" and "fast" are criteria, then consider the automatics. g

I have a set of Fittipaldi alloys off a 300z with four hole pattern. The offset is for an 85 or so 300Z NA. Probably need to space the fronts out about .75; the backs fit and clear my disk brakes. If your interested, I'll pull one out and send you photos.

My local out in the desert JY has been littered with 944's over the last few years. Usually, one in the lot at any given time.. Some are bent, but most are there because of engine problems that are too expensive for the owner to repair. I think they may be an "interference" engine design that allows the valves to contact pistons when the timing belt slips or goes "away". Any way, as this is a hybrid site, we all know that the solution for reliability and performance is General Motors: Try one of these next time: Hybrid Porsche G

These screws are soft metal. Use a very small chisel, flat bladed screwdriver, or small pointed center punch and place it at the outer edge of the screw at a right angle and tap it with a hammer. This is the way the wrench monkies at my favorite JY do it. Otherwise just dremel a slot and use a screwdriver. g

Looks to me that your upper strut insulator separated. Replace it. G

Mine was caved in by kids walking on the roof and the books the wife stored there There was an inverse "bubble" about 24" around. The edges were not "crimped". I was about to push it out and up from the inside, but my body man stopped that. He used some heat and a wet towel from the outside to the inside in a circle to shrink the metal. Unlike anything I'd ever seen. It wasn't cheap, but my roof is straight and it has no small holes filled with bondo, Find some body man that has built a true leadsled or is engaged in high end classic restoration. It apparently used to be a common technique. Worked for me. G

My favorite JY has an early 260Z with AC. If you can use this pully and I'll call the owner to get a price for you. G

Yeah, I've walked that road several times. First a GEN I, then a GEN II, and, now, a GEN III LM7. I presume you are looking for a solid quick street machine and not building for the track or to some association's race rules. SBCs today are like Flathead Fords, OHV Olds/Cadillac/Chryslers in 1957. They still make good HP and parts are "cheap", but the writing on the wall is clear: SBC are obsolete; the aftermarket research is focused on the GEN III. Any GEN III 6 liter iron truck engine with a good camshaft, long tubes, flat pistons, and a good tune on the computer is an easy 550HP. All day long, all night long, and it will crank every time. The point here is not that the CSB is a bad choice, only that when you factor in horsepower and reliability the GEN III can be a "cheaper" build that a SBC. The "best buy" or biggest "bang for the buck" for used motors would be the 5.3 iron truck engine. In my neck of the woods, these will go for $750-1500.00 with transmission, loom, and low mileage. I paid $2K 5 years ago for an LM7 with all accessories, transmission, loom, driveshaft, and 21000 miles. If you like new, look for a GM LS3 crate engine. If smog is a street legal issue for you [given what you have in the SBC, I don't think it would be] stay away from iron block truck engines. The swap from a csb to a GEN III is not that difficult. The process is well described in these forums. Best of luck on whatever decision you make. G

Yep. Circa 1953, at least. Right along with: Paint your Chevy green, so you can park in the grass and watch to Fords go by. g

Double Post Deleted.

I suggest you shouldn't be concerned at all. That car is no worse than 9 out of 10 fiberglas "427 Cobras" with GM running gear I stumble over at car shows. It appears the workmanship is good, the front end and back side are clean to my eye. I'm no fan of the wheel arch treatment, but some might like it. If he has an original set of JDM light covers with chrome rings, he may, in fact, have an accessory that packs that $500 price tag. G

Either a restoration or a hybridz will be a money pit. Both will be pricey, but at the end of the day, the stocker will retain "value" longer. If the Series I Z I've been throwing money at for the last 6 or 7 years had been a numbers matching car, I would have gone for a full on restoration. As it is my choice has been an "era correct" look with a Chevy truck engine as motive power. If I were starting today, my personal take would be a stock body and interior with any one of the later DOHC I6s around with essentially a track suspension and a great stereo. Then, drive it. G

Neither the Esteem nor the Sanden will bolt directly to a bracket designed for the usual Sanden 508. Although manufactured by Sanden this one uses the Geo/Esteem bracket spacing. Much wider than the usual Sanden. I could not easily use the Kwick bracket to mount either of these two compressors. However, having said that, I believe the Esteem's size would allow it to be easily mounted on the right side of an LSx engine. and clear the strut towers. More so if one is using the truck assembly which mounts all accessories .75 inch or so forward. By the way, I was quoted $75.00 for the Esteem compressor, if I pulled it. It was still charged, so that would have been a good buy. I have Kwick's "alternator only" mount for my truck. The deeper 135 Amp truck alternator would not clear the shock tower with this Kwick's mount. So, I've relocated the truck alternator to the Ls1 position down low on the left side. With a .75 inch AL spacer, it all clears the JCI motor mounts and the stock engine mounts. Now, I have Kwick's alternator mount to play with... maybe it can be adapted for use as a compressor mount. On a different theme, let's talk Service Manuals for S30 240-z Sports. While researching my series I wiring and heater assembly I found this location for factory manuals: xenon. They have the S30 supplement chassis manual for early 1971 series I cars. A great find. G

Hmm, is that like "ambidextrous" or an AC/DC plug? The early 260z A/C evaporatorlooks identical to my old ARA a/c unit, but in much better shape. The condenser is different in that it is an add-on with all lines exiting on the right side of the engine. Howeve, the heater is different in that it does not seem to hook up to the outside fresh air vent my 240 shares with the windshield wiper motor. (not the two that take air from the front of the car, the one that is under the windshield. I'll know more next week when I remove the panel covering the windshield wiper motor and the dash. The ignition and combination switch appear to be in excellent shape and the steering column is the same diameter as my 240. (I read somewhere that 280 columns are wider). I took those out today and went looking for small a/c compressors. I have a 5.3 truck engine and I would prefer mounting all a/c lines, compressor, dryer on the right side. So, I'm looking for very small compressor. Geo/Metro used a number of small compressors in the '90's; one of which was the Sanden SD7. I pulled a Sanden SD7 out of a Geo/Metro and than found a 2000 Suzuki Esteem with a smaller compressor with mounting tabs appear the same as the Sanden SD7. The Esteem compressor is made by Seiko/Seiki, is designed for 134a and is model # SS10LV6. Pricy little bugger, but no wider and about 2 inches shorter than the Sanden SD7 The Sanden drive is 104 mm wide and I count 4 grooves. The Esteem is 114 mm wide and I count 5 grooves. Suzuki Side kicks used both Sanden and the "Esteem" version at different times. I think I could use a 5 groove belt to drive my 6 groove alternator. Both these compressors have top mounted intake/discharge ports. Cast into the body. The Sanden has one other "port" or "pipe" on the back plate. I have no idea what it might be, but it is a typical vacuum hose nipple in shape and about 3/8 inch in diameter with a small plastic insert. It is not t an a/c "o" ringed line. Tonight, I'll pull off my Kwick a/c bracket and see if the Esteem will bolt to it. I would post photos of all this if I could ever figure out how to upload them to my Album or, for that matter, find my album after the last program change. Any one out there that knows of any bracket to mount a small Sanden, really tight to the right side of an LsX, give me a call. G

Hmm, is that like "ambidextrous" or an AC/DC plug? The early 260z A/C evaporatorlooks identical to my old ARA a/c unit, but in much better shape. The condenser is different in that it is an add-on with all lines exiting on the right side of the engine. Howeve, the heater is different in that it does not seem to hook up to the outside fresh air vent my 240 shares with the windshield wiper motor. (not the two that take air from the front of the car, the one that is under the windshield. I'll know more next week when I remove the panel covering the windshield wiper motor and the dash. The ignition and combination switch appear to be in excellent shape and the steering column is the same diameter as my 240. (I read somewhere that 280 columns are wider). I took those out today and went looking for small a/c compressors. I have a 5.3 truck engine and I would prefer mounting all a/c lines, compressor, dryer on the right side. So, I'm looking for very small compressor. Geo/Metro used a number of small compressors in the '90's; one of which was the Sanden SD7. I pulled a Sanden SD7 out of a Geo/Metro and than found a 2000 Suzuki Esteem with a smaller compressor with mounting tabs appear the same as the Sanden SD7. The Esteem compressor is made by Seiko/Seiki, is designed for 134a and is model # SS10LV6. Pricy little bugger, but no wider and about 2 inches shorter than the Sanden SD7 The Sanden drive is 104 mm wide and I count 4 grooves. The Esteem is 114 mm wide and I count 5 grooves. Suzuki Side kicks used both Sanden and the "Esteem" version at different times. I think I could use a 5 groove belt to drive my 6 groove alternator. Both these compressors have top mounted intake/discharge ports. Cast into the body. The Sanden has one other "port" or "pipe" on the back plate. I have no idea what it might be, but it is a typical vacuum hose nipple in shape and about 3/8 inch in diameter with a small plastic insert. It is not t an a/c "o" ringed line. Tonight, I'll pull off my Kwick a/c bracket and see if the Esteem will bolt to it. I would post photos of all this if I could ever figure out how to upload them to my Album or, for that matter, find my album after the last program change. Any one out there that knows of any bracket to mount a small Sanden, really tight to the right side of an LsX, give me a call. G

If you have an LSx engine swap into a late 260 or 280Z, Johns Cars a/c mount and compressor is the way to go..... . These cars require the a/c compressor to be mounted on the left side. John's bracket is designed for late 260/280 compressor location. However, if you are installing a/c in a 240z, you most likely are looking for a bracket that mounts the a/c compressor on the right side. There is a plethora of a/c brackets that mount a Sanden compressor (usually a 508) high on the right side of the LSx. The problem with all three of the following brackets (Pace Performance, Eddies Motorsport, and Kwick Performance) is that the compressor hangs too far out from the engine and interferes with the strut tower sheet metal. All three of these companies publish the metrics of their installations stating the distance from the outside of the compressor clutch to the center-line of the engine. Pace Performance is the widest; Eddies Motorsport is the narrowest (It uses a Sanden SD7.. not the 508) and Kwick Performance is somewhat wider than Eddies Motorsport. I purchased the Kwick Performance right hand a/c compressor bracket for an LM7.. that is the truck version of an LSx. This is designed to mount a variety of Sandens, including the 508 and the SD7. I believe the SD7 is the smallest compressor made by Sanden. My internet search for Geo/Metro a/c compressors shows a Sanden was installed in several years of Suzuki/Swift/Geo/Metro and in checking those part numbers with Sanden's website it appears that the Geo Sanden is a SD7. The Sanden website states the SD7 clutch drive is 100mm wide, making it the narrowest compressor on Sanden's website. In comparison, the 508's clutch drive is 130mm (more or less). The 508 does not fit in the 240z engine compartment with the Kwick bracket, it is too long and too wide. However, the SD7 is substantially shorter than the 508 with the hose connections on the top of the compressor. Kwick Performance states in their material that their bracket will mount a number of Sanden compressors... including the SD7. Now, the Sanden website lists two versions of the SD7: one is an upgrade; both have the same outside dimensions. Both are also discontinued models. The best is saved for the last: the Kwick Performance brackets are constructed of plate AL and mount to the head by two cap screws. One of these capscrews also captures a "V" shaped brace that also bolts to the water pump bolts. There is more than enough AL "meat" to slot the plates allowing them to slide in toward the engine block by at least 1/4-3/8 of an inch. Slotting the two bracket plates does not affect the location or function of the "V" shaped brace, but will move the compressor closer to the engine and further away from the strut supports. This weekend I will be salvaging a complete aftermarket a/c off an early 260Z and will have the opportunity to look over about 6 1990's Geo/Suzuki/Metros. If I find a Sanden, I'll pull it as a core and mock it up on my Z. As a side note, I've not been able to upload any photos into my Album for two years, since the last program change. If some kind administrator would take it upon her/him/it/person-selves to direct me to a "help" section that explains how to post into my album, I'd post detailed photographs of the "above". G

I have the JCI kit with an LM7 engine with the 4l60E transmission into a Series I 240Z. Narrow transmission tunnel. Four areas for massage work: 1. Passenger's side for the AT governor (actually two places, but they are pretty clear in Dan's photo) 2. Right around the transition from firewall to transmission tunnel on passenger side (this is to clear the AT oil lines) and on the driver's side to clear the transmission shift lever. The last is needed only if you are running the stock AT shift lever with a rod over to AT shift lever. Think LOCAR adjustible shift lever mounted "UP" . You will need to clearance this area to allow for access and to prevent the rod and lever from body interferance. Not necessary if you are using aftermarket cable shifter. Pounding with a BFH is pretty much "hit or miss". The sides absorb the blow and then they bounce back and there really is limited space to really swing, even a small single jack. If you have air, use a short stroke air hammer with a planishing tip (Looks like a panel pounder's hammer, round and not quite flat ... a bit concave.) This with a small amount of heat from a MAP gas torch will allow you to smoothly move the metal. Be careful because you can also punch through the metal. Also, very loud, use ear plugs. G

\ I think you should go back and take a close look at that 2+2 with a four speed. If I recall correctly, those should have a R200 3:36 ring and pinion. Where is Antelope? Out by Mohave/Lancaster? G

If you are serious about photography and want something more that a simple pocket "point and shoot", then I agree: you should stick to Nikon or Canon. Both are excellent choices. I favor Nikon because my first serious camera was a Nikon F1 that lasted for 40 years of slides. I sold it only because 35mm film was beginning to disappar and I figured I'd better get on the digital band wagon. I have a simple DX40 with two lenses. It can be a "shoot and point" camera or I can go back in time and figure depth of field and other wise manipulate all parameters with ease. I would suggest, with either camera, that you buy two lenses that cover the field from 18 mm to, say 300mm. This will cover about 99% of all your work. Big megapixels help in that you have more detail.. The newer Nikons and Canons can exceed slide film for grain/pixels. This is to say you can have very large files with more detail that one is likely to use in a lifetime. G

Thanks Tony for the information. I'm still looking for an a/c compressor mount high on passenger side of an ls1 or other GEN III engine. Anyone out there with a vendor or photo. What I need is something like JCI's A/C mount, but for the passenger side, not the driver's side. G

I've located a complete early 260Z and would like to salvage some parts off of it for use on my Series I s30. My s30 has the bumper brackets off a 72 or 73. Solid steel brackets that mount to the "frame" rails and curve up to hold a thin bumper. The bumper end has two bolts and a steel tube about 2 inches long and 1.5 inches in diameter between the bolts. Would the stock 260 bumpers bolt to this bracket? Are the fenders interchangeable? They look as if they would work, along with the grill and valence. This 260Z has an aftermarket a/c unit that looks from the engine compartment to be very similar if not the same as the dealer installed ARA units for the 240Z. The condenser fills the entire front end and is a tube/fin arrangement. Unlike the 280Z stock condenser, which has a flat tube into a header on each end; this one is more of a "commercial" refrigeration look with tubes that are exposed as they loop around 180 degrees to go back into the finned portion of the condenser. The inlet and outlet of this condenser is on the passenger car side along with the compressor and dryer, entering into the cabin through two holes in the firewall just above the passenger side frame rail. The heater hoses enter into the firewall on the passenger side of the L6 and in exactly the same location as a 240Z. The cabin is locked, so I can not get in underneath the dash to inspect the heater/ac evaporator..... so I really don't know if the heater/evaporator are mounted as in the 280Z.. The controls are not easily seen, but appear to be the 280Z style dash and console. At this moment, I have a 208z condenser that bolts up perfectly to the 240z: but, the "in" and "out" connections are on opposite sides of the unit. This works well in the sense that the unit can be clocked allowing the two sides to be switched from driver's side to passenger's side. However, the best of all arrangements would be to have the compressor, dryer and all lines to run on the passenger car side and to use a refurbished dealer installed ARA or similar unit. If the a/c unit is the same as the dealer installed ARA type, then I'll pull it, clean it, paint it, and use it. John's Cars a/c compressor is designed for 280Zs and is mounted on the driver's side. The price is right for his kit; but, I would prefer to keep everything on the passenger car side. I have found a bracket that mounts a Sanden sd 7 compressor on the passenger side of an Gen III (LS1 and such) engine with an overhand of, perhaps 1 inch, beyond the valve covers. I am 99% certain this would work to fit a Sanden on the passenger side. Look here for a photo. At over $2k for the complete set up in billet, I won't be buying this anytime soon, but the bracket mount looks to be simple to clone. I have seen this mount from eddie motor sports mounted on an LM7 in an '80s or so Vette. It is very narrow, the Sanden sd7 appears smaller than the 508 series. I know that Vintage and others are out there, but I really would like to keep all my controls as stock appearing as possible. Thanks for reading. G

Sure, try this: Fastenel_Cap_Scres g